(Topic ID: 220954)

Bally Flash Gordon Restoration and Customization

By Tbgolfen

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by zahner
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#1 5 years ago

Summer 2018 arrived a few weeks ago which means its time to do another restoration. If you are interested in other restorations I have completed here are two documented on pinside.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-hsii-restoration-and-customization

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-frontier-restoration-and-custom-artwork

A little back story about this project. Flash Gordon has been a favorite of mine for quite some time. I have been coveting iepinball FG forever. Every time I played it I asked him if it was for sale. Each and every time he said it would never leave his collection. During the first week of April I received an unexpected email from iepinball asking if I would be interested in purchasing his FG project. I responded immediately with a yes!

Thanks to iepinball this project was made possible. I purchased a working game, new cpr gold playfield, plastics, and apron from him.

#2 5 years ago

Here a few pics to get us started on this thread. These were taken before any work had been done.
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#3 5 years ago

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#4 5 years ago

I decided this time to disassemble the cabinet first and send the parts out to be chromed separately from the playfield parts.

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#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Watching! Will this have a custom paint job like Frontier?
Shawn

Sounds like a great idea to me.

#7 5 years ago

The cabinet is in need of a few repairs before I get started with a fresh paint job.

The first thing I noticed was the head had been crushed and put back together with dry wall screws.
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#8 5 years ago

More pics.
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#9 5 years ago

Before I started the repair I brought the cabinet back to bare wood. I used a chemical stripper and then sanded.

I glued and pin nailed the cabinet back together.

I decided to fill the void in the head with popsicle sticks. Pretty sexy! I glued and clamped them in the head.
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#10 5 years ago

My favorite filler is evercoat. It sands amazingly well. Unfortunately it is not the cheapest product.

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#20 5 years ago

The bottom of the cabinet needed some repair as well. Bally used cheaper particle board on the back of this cabinet. Thankfully it didn’t chip all the way through. I got out the table saw and fashioned a support piece that I glued, pinned, and filled. I also glued some of the splits in the ply wall sides.

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#21 5 years ago

Next it was time to sand and fill the cabinet.
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#22 5 years ago

Time to setup the home spray booth and shoot some primer.
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#23 5 years ago

Spraying primer always reveals the imperfections that need to be filled. Time to block sand, fill, and primer again.

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#24 5 years ago

Time to shoot some color! I use Creatix Wicked Airbrush Colors.
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#25 5 years ago

I had to put the pinball machine aside for the day as it was time to help my buddy paint his ‘72 Nova in the garage. Nothing like the pressure of spraying a car that has been under construction for 6 years. This car is the fourth car we have painted in the garage. 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear.
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#30 5 years ago
Quoted from Leveeger:

Hi,
Interesting topic... I will stick to it.
May you tell us the reference of createx paints used (series, and colors names) please? I'm not sure of the exact shades as the FJ is always altered by the UVs...

I chose the colors I liked more than whether or not they reflected the original color best. Jet black, scarlet red, and metallic gold.

#31 5 years ago

So the work continues. I decided this time to start with the original art work. Here are some pics of the stencils applied.

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#32 5 years ago

After the stencils were applied and masked off, it was time to spray some black. E1548B6A-AC05-42CC-B88D-223A0BB51967 (resized).jpegE1548B6A-AC05-42CC-B88D-223A0BB51967 (resized).jpeg1485383C-0009-46EA-988E-F29360589D05 (resized).jpeg1485383C-0009-46EA-988E-F29360589D05 (resized).jpegBA11C251-6F8E-44D5-A638-6E615BFA6B84 (resized).jpegBA11C251-6F8E-44D5-A638-6E615BFA6B84 (resized).jpeg

#33 5 years ago

Pulling off the stencils makes me nervous as delamination has happened before. However this time everything went well.

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#34 5 years ago

The next set of stencils are now installed and masked off. I decided to spray metallic gold over white. The idea is for the metallic gold to be as bright as possible.

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#35 5 years ago

I then sprayed the cabinet with 2 coats of clear. I want to lock the colors down and then color sand flat. This will provide a better surface for the touch ups as well as custom art and prevent any delamination from occurring.
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#38 5 years ago
Quoted from Arcane:

Traditionally, to get a very bright silver or gold color, it is sprayed on top of matte black.
Yves

Interesting. In my limited experience it seems to come down to hue preference. I believe white, black, and silver are all used. White keeps it more toward the brighter side (yellow) where black is warmer (brown). Then again if you apply excessive coats of paint it doesn’t really matter. I am a hobbiest so take it with a grain of salt.

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Any plans for air brushing? Cab looks great but curious what custom stuff you are going to do now that you have factory paint.

Yep. However, I do like aspects of the original artwork. The goal is to enhance it.

#42 5 years ago

Started color sanding this weekend in order to start the custom work this week.
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2 weeks later
#44 5 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Given your other restorations, I can't wait to see what you end up with.

Thanks! The cabinet is at Kiwi Terry’s so I hope to post some progress pics by next weekend.

#45 5 years ago

I did have to do a repair to the cabinet. I dented it somehow and here is a few pics of the fix. It required sanding and filling. Sprayed some primer and left it for now. Some of the new art will fix it and what is left I will do after the art.

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#46 5 years ago

Sorry about my pictures being out of order. I can’t seem to figure out how to fix it.

#47 5 years ago

I color sanded and polished the playfield this weekend. I used a 3M pneumatic sander with 1500, 3000, and 5000. Then polished with a foam pad. The playfield is a CPR Gold. Although the playfield looks great and would work fine a little bit of work will go a long way in improving game play and aesthetics. The upper playfield had planking and some clear build up around the inserts. The lower playfield had less planking but the inserts were pretty bad. The clear buildup around the inserts was enough to change the trajectory of the ball.

This was my first time using this sand and I was absolutely blown away by the speed and quality of the results. It took about 30 minutes total to sand and polish. Doing it by hand use to take me half a day. Here are some pics.

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#48 5 years ago

Some final pics of the playfield.
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#49 5 years ago

Now it’s time to strip the top of the old playfield and desolder the wire harness.
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14
#50 5 years ago

I checked in on Terry today and to my excitement he had started on the art. Here are a few progress pictures.
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#55 5 years ago
Quoted from Limorange:

That's amazing! Some people are so talented.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Talent indeed. Not even finished and it looks amazing!

I will pass on your compliments to Terry. There will be more pics coming later today.

#58 5 years ago
Quoted from jsa:

I'd love to understand Terry's process a bit more. It looks like it all starts with a transfer of some kind that gets painted over? Am I getting that right?

Terry most often makes a stencil out of a reference picture. I documented a little of that process today with a time lapse. He is cutting out the dark areas. These become the reference points. I will document the other side better for you to see how the art develops.

#59 5 years ago

Terry is featured in a workbook for airbrush artists. Very helpful book.
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12
#60 5 years ago

Here are some new pictures.
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#62 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Well, I haven’t been this attracted to a man with a sword on the side of a big red box in a long time.

Was the last time Bruce Jenner on the side of a Wheaties box?

#63 5 years ago

We started in on the other side. I liked the more menacing expression on Ming so we combined the 2 pics.

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#64 5 years ago

After each picture is cut into a stencil they are positioned on the cabinet. The background is painted in a medium gray so that both black and white standout. Black is sprayed over the stencils giving a basic outline and dimension to the photo. The stencils are then removed and everything from here on out is freehand. White is now used to bring out the highlights. Color will be added after all the highlights are complete.

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#67 5 years ago

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#69 5 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

I’m in love with a dude

Awe thanks!

Long time no see! It’s time to hangout and grab some lunch.

#73 5 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

This is just beyond cool. I only wish I had the talent, tools, and imagination to pull off something like this. Just splendid.

Thanks and thanks to pinside we can take the ride together! Hopefully more fun to come.

#75 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

man I so wish I could find a quality air brush artist of this calibur in Madison!
Mind asking if he knows anyone in the region? I have a few ideas for games I would love to go crazy on like you have done with this and Frontier.

I will check with Terry and see.

#76 5 years ago

Look what showed up in the mail today! Thanks Merf.

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#77 5 years ago

Continuing to make progress on a number of fronts. The cabinet parts sent out to be chromed will be ready this week. Playfield parts will be sent out to get chromed. I am placing an order this week for replacement parts. Wood rails are sanded and ready to be painted. Terry has continued making progress as well. Here are a few more pics.
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#78 5 years ago

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#79 5 years ago

I purchased a new Iwata airbrush for large areas that are to big for a gravity feed airbrush and to small for HVLP. All you need is a small air compressor, hose, and a few bottles. The first project was to use it on the playfield rails. A couple of observations about using this airbrush. Overall, it is great. It does have a few draw backs that you can overcome. You can't set it down very easily as it is awkward with the bottle attached. In addition you can't lay it on its side because the bottle requires an air hole and so paint will leak out. In terms of performance, it does have a tendency to splatter. I noticed it when having set it down and picked it back up. I simply just sprayed a scrap piece of cardboard to clear any excess paint and then returned to painting with no further splatters.
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#81 5 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

I recommend getting one of these stands. $10 at harbor freight.

Great suggestion!

1 week later
12
#82 5 years ago

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#83 5 years ago

Terry and I got back to it today after taking the last week off. If by chance you were wondering why I used some of the original artwork, today the reason is revealed. I will let the pictures speak for themselves and then give a short description for those unfamiliar with the process. The first set of pictures shows the addition of the background.
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#84 5 years ago

These next set of pictures shows the upgrade to the original art.
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#86 5 years ago

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#88 5 years ago

"
[att=4559704,1359142 caption="" [att=4559704,1359142 caption="
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#89 5 years ago

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#91 5 years ago

Tomorrow we start on the other side as well as add some silver leaf to the princess. Once the gold leaf is applied to all three sides, I will clear coat the cabinet to lock in the gold and color sand flat. Then Terry will go back over the gold and airbrush in the details for the crown etc. Then another 2 coats of clear will finish the cabinet. It feels a little of 2 steps forward and three steps back but that is the nature of airbrushing.

#93 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That's insane, man! Very creative.

Thanks!

Hopefully by the end of the day today we will have both sides finished. Right now we are working on the silver leaf.

#94 5 years ago

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#95 5 years ago
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#97 5 years ago

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#100 5 years ago

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#103 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Looks great. Terry is a very talented artist.
I like the way it is integrated with the original art too.

Thank you sir! I will pass your praises on to Terry.

#104 5 years ago
Quoted from radium:

How does the gold leaf work? Obviously most of that must get removed next right? Otherwise he wouldn’t have done so much detailing on the crown and stuff.

Good question. Terry preferred this time to do a little more than just a rough outline of the crown and jewelry to work out the spacing and concept. So the artwork is buried under the gold and silver leaf. Artwork will be applied over the gold leaf. Because masking on top of gold leaf is really tricky and can cause delamination, I will put 2 coats of clear on next to lock everything down. Then he will come back and do shading and detail work on top of the gold/silver leaf (actually on the clear coat) much like what you saw. Any mistakes or corrections to the artwork can be sanded off without impacting the leaf. Although time and expense are the cost of intermediate clear coats, I believe in the end you arrive at a finished product quicker because of the potential damage (chips, scratches, delamination, etc) that can occur with so many layers of material. Those accidents can often mean redoing an entire section of art to make it look right.

1 week later
#108 5 years ago

These next few updates might cause concern that this project has lost its way. The cabinet artwork is all in "place" but far from finished. These pictures are of the front cabinet. They are not complete but needed to get the gold done on them.
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#109 5 years ago

The gold leaf is finished on the cabinet. These are the first pictures of the back box that I have shown. The art is original with gold and silver leaf added. These pictures are of the cabinet being prepped for clearing.

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#110 5 years ago

The next few pictures show the cabinet with a few coats of clear. As a reminder, these coats are simply to lock the art and gold leaf down. I got a little over zealous with the clear and got a sag on the flash side. It will sand out no problem but always frustrating to make mistakes. I will wait a few days and sand them flat. Then back to Terry's house for more art over this next weekend.
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1 week later
#114 5 years ago

Clear is a life saver. Terry and I have put some time in this weekend and are very happy we did an intermediate coat.

#115 5 years ago

So I sanded the clear flat with 1000 using the 3m pneumatic sander. Terry then airbrushed black over the gold to create shadows and details.

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#116 5 years ago

You might be wondering why so much black. The short answer is anything you spray on gold leaf will end up looking flat. So you overspray the gold and then use an eraser to sand off the black revealing the gold leaf. This will creat a “reflection” point. A little hard to capture via a photo. The last picture is from an angle picking up the sun. You can see how reflective the jewels become.

In addition Ming’s detail in his robe was brought back by spraying red over the gold and then erasing it back.

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#118 5 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Can you post a video of this beauty once done? This is gonna be stunning!

I would say that is a reasonable request.

#119 5 years ago

The next step is striping the graphics. This will clean up the edges of the gold leaf and create a cleaner look. Black on the red background and red on the black background. Here is a progress pic. Lots more to do. E8BA806D-591A-45B8-8D40-9B97FDD33C18 (resized).jpegE8BA806D-591A-45B8-8D40-9B97FDD33C18 (resized).jpeg

#120 5 years ago

Large lines are done in black and red. Now for the circle and small lines.
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#122 5 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Man that's going to look amazing with all the trim on!

Thanks!

Striping is done on the first side.
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#124 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

This is even too nice to have on a pinball machine... I want it on my wall

It might be a little intrusive but worth it! Thanks!

#125 5 years ago

Touchups to the artwork is complete on the flash side. Forgot to take a picture after the striping was complete. 03CE4666-7E77-400E-A779-BA38B1933C2D (resized).jpeg03CE4666-7E77-400E-A779-BA38B1933C2D (resized).jpeg

#127 5 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Wow...
Amazing work. I'd love to see what you would do with a Fathom.

Thanks!

I can’t imagine ever doing one because Mike did the best version I have ever seen. Check it out if you haven’t already.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pmd-–-fathom-restoration-let-the-spending-begin

#130 5 years ago

Worked on the coin door today. It is all back together. Door has been chromed, screws have been polished or painted, parts have been washed in ultrasonic bath, and interior parts painted.
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#132 5 years ago

We are getting close to the finish line! Couple touchups to the front of the cabinet and cleanup the top cabinet and I think we can call it.
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#134 5 years ago
Quoted from g94:

Looks amazing. But aren't you forgetting her ear? Seems missing some darker shades.

Good catch! A little overspray grayed it up a bit. It will get fixed. Thanks.

1 week later
#135 5 years ago

Final prep for clearing. Touchup of the red and black colors. 5C7E677D-62D4-4AC0-9565-DBB551D80B07 (resized).jpeg5C7E677D-62D4-4AC0-9565-DBB551D80B07 (resized).jpeg
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#136 5 years ago

Ready for clear.
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#137 5 years ago

First coat of clear is done.
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#138 5 years ago

Second coat finished.
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#142 5 years ago

Thanks everyone! Sanding and polishing are complete. All imperfections at this point are considered my hidden intentions.

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#144 5 years ago

I have a few decisions to make. I am undecided about the rails and lock down bar. They are currently chromed but I have some extras around. The chrome seems to compete with the artwork. My options are to 1) powdercoat (red or black). Not sure how close color matching would be. 2) I thought about painting them red and clearing them (Not as durable but should hold up in a home environment and fixable). With both options 1 and 2 I would also consider having the artwork continue through the rails. Integrating the artwork would be more seamless with painting the rails. 3) chrome. 4) raw steel.

Open to opinions.
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#154 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I like black and it would be cool to extend just the gold volt like things into the rail
Would kind of sandwiched the center by mirroring the lower half of the color scheme.

Thanks everyone for giving your input. Black with extending the gold is my inclination at the moment.

Aurich can you throw up a comparison between just black and black with the gold bolts continued through the rails?

#156 5 years ago
Quoted from g94:

I agree with wildwillys : it's a little sad that the rails are so close to the artwork. The upper part of the drawing is even hidden.
I'd walk the extra mile and make a custom cut that respects the artwork.

Certainly a possibility. I feel somewhat attached to the old style Bally rails.

#160 5 years ago
Quoted from g94:

Here it is. Perhaps a custom cut along these lines?
[quoted image]
Chrome might work in this case. Color variations:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the mockups. These are good options.

#161 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

The thing that really sticks out to me is the contrast between the high gorgeous detail of the cabinet art work to the near stock looking backbox artwork.....I'd detail the backbox art as well to match the cabinet, yet keep the original artwork theme.

I considered those options along the way. It was a difficult decision. Mixing graphics and photo realism doesn’t typically work well. Terry either wanted to scrap the upper artwork and do something entirely different or leave it alone. Something in between wasn’t an option for him. Ultimately what decided it for me is the backbox is not visible in a lineup. The Bally head has the frame around the front that keeps it hidden under most circumstances.

1 week later
#165 5 years ago

Here is the modification of the side rails. Before and after pictures. What do you all think?BeforeBefore
AfterAfter

#167 5 years ago

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#169 5 years ago
Quoted from g94:

Yes! Much better

Quoted from wildwillys:

Awesome, Much Better!!

Cool! It gives the art some deserved breathing room.

1 month later
#171 5 years ago

The parts to finish this project have slowly been trickling in over the past week. One of the side rails bubbled so it is back getting chromed.

Chrome plating appears to be going in the wrong direction for pinball projects. The quality of work has dropped, the prices are double, and timing is horrific.

With all of these delays, I still think I can finish this project before Christmas.
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#172 5 years ago

Work on the playfield has begun as well. Started with the bottom of course. Decided to avoid using a ground braid and went with an insulated wire instead.

The dremel works well for burnishing the light sockets. It is important to do this to get a solid solder joint.

I like using truss screws on the underside. It’s $6 for 100 screws and makes putting it back together so much simpler. I use #6 and #8s. The 6s are for light sockets etc., and the 8s are for anything mechanical like flippers.
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#173 5 years ago

Here is a progress pic on the underside of the playfield. Before I can complete it, I need to redo the connectors on the wire harness.
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#175 5 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I am curious how you solder that insulated wire to the sockets, just melt your way through the insulation?

Use a wire stripper and cut the insulation where you want to solder. Pull back the insulation with your fingers leaving a small gap. The gap should be wider than your solder gun tip. Tin both the wire and socket. Then join them. With a little bit of practice you can make some nice looking joints. Avoid burning the insulation as much as possible as it looks ugly.

#176 5 years ago

Working on the inside panel for the tilt bob, etc. I bought zebra wood to because I love the strong grain. I predrilled it with pilot holes by clamping the old board on top of the new board and drilling through the old board into the new one. I sanded with 220 and 400 between coats of General Finishes Arm-r-seal satin top coat. I have applied 3 coats and should be ready for installation tomorrow.
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#179 5 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Glad to see some more action on this build.

Me too!! I like to get these projects done in around 2 months or so but delays i can't control always set me back. I can see the finish line.

#180 5 years ago

Other than waiting for the side rail, the bottom cabinet is good to go.
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#182 5 years ago
Quoted from thierryv:

just my few cents ,
if you have a brush / polishing machine you can make the " tilt ball " shine like new !
It will make it complete ...

I will give it a shot!

#183 5 years ago

Time to put the head back on the cabinet. I needed to clean up the displays a bit. I submerged them in the ultrasonic bath just barely above the board. Here is a comparison with a clean one on the left.
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#184 5 years ago

Back together!
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#185 5 years ago

Pop bumpers and flippers installed. Time to put the wire harness back in place and start soldering.
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#192 5 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I should try this, what was in the bath when you did it? Just water?

I use distilled water and a little simple green. I keep the temperature around 40 celsius or 104 Fahrenheit and dipped just the PCB for 4 minutes or so.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I caught the part where only the PCB is being dipped. Not sure why a sealed glass display would mind getting wet though.

I don't really know.

3 years later
11
#195 1 year ago

I am excited to say that my games are out of storage and in their new home. Here are some long awaited final pictures of this project.
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