Gaithersburg, MD
cut a curve around the flipper button and cut the rest of the rail down to an inch or less. with it being really wide it is overpowering the artwork and doesn't look good in any color. maybe even gold powdercoat it
(Topic ID: 220954)
Linked Games
Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981
Topic Gallery
I like black and it would be cool to extend just the gold volt like things into the rail
Would kind of sandwiched the center by mirroring the lower half of the color scheme.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I like black and it would be cool to extend just the gold volt like things into the rail
Would kind of sandwiched the center by mirroring the lower half of the color scheme.
Thanks everyone for giving your input. Black with extending the gold is my inclination at the moment.
Aurich can you throw up a comparison between just black and black with the gold bolts continued through the rails?
I agree with wildwillys : it's a little sad that the rails are so close to the artwork. The upper part of the drawing is even hidden.
I'd walk the extra mile and make a custom cut that respects the artwork.
Quoted from g94:I agree with wildwillys : it's a little sad that the rails are so close to the artwork. The upper part of the drawing is even hidden.
I'd walk the extra mile and make a custom cut that respects the artwork.
Certainly a possibility. I feel somewhat attached to the old style Bally rails.
Quoted from Tbgolfen:Aurich can you throw up a comparison between just black and black with the gold bolts continued through the rails?
Sure thing. Not sure I'm wild about it personally.
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Quoted from Tbgolfen:I feel somewhat attached to the old style Bally rails.
Won't look right without them, it's part of the whole proportion of the cab really.
Quoted from g94:I agree with wildwillys : it's a little sad that the rails are so close to the artwork. The upper part of the drawing is even hidden.
I'd walk the extra mile and make a custom cut that respects the artwork.
I strongly second this. Try a photoshop mockup of two intersecting curves cut out of the rail to expose the top of the artwork around the figures. Black with the gold continued through looks right.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Try a photoshop mockup
Here it is. Perhaps a custom cut along these lines?
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Chrome might work in this case. Color variations:
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Quoted from g94:Here it is. Perhaps a custom cut along these lines?
[quoted image]
Chrome might work in this case. Color variations:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the mockups. These are good options.
Quoted from AUKraut:The thing that really sticks out to me is the contrast between the high gorgeous detail of the cabinet art work to the near stock looking backbox artwork.....I'd detail the backbox art as well to match the cabinet, yet keep the original artwork theme.
I considered those options along the way. It was a difficult decision. Mixing graphics and photo realism doesn’t typically work well. Terry either wanted to scrap the upper artwork and do something entirely different or leave it alone. Something in between wasn’t an option for him. Ultimately what decided it for me is the backbox is not visible in a lineup. The Bally head has the frame around the front that keeps it hidden under most circumstances.
Quoted from g94:Here it is. Perhaps a custom cut along these lines?
[quoted image]
Chrome might work in this case. Color variations:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
these look really good. If going the route of custom cut, then I would bring back the thick part on the back side for symmetry and also do some custom cutouts in the thicker areas.
sorry, no photo edit skills here, but I think I explained that well enough to visualize.
That looks much better with the artwork, No on the chrome I would say go with black but all the rest of the colors look good
You could also run an arc cut through the rail to expose and even frame the upper part of the art work on the cabinet. I would go with std metal finish on rails- brushed.
Let the art shine and let the rails be mostly original with a slight cut out to frame the art.
Its beautiful.
1 week later
Quoted from g94:Yes! Much better
Quoted from wildwillys:Awesome, Much Better!!
Cool! It gives the art some deserved breathing room.
1 month later
The parts to finish this project have slowly been trickling in over the past week. One of the side rails bubbled so it is back getting chromed.
Chrome plating appears to be going in the wrong direction for pinball projects. The quality of work has dropped, the prices are double, and timing is horrific.
With all of these delays, I still think I can finish this project before Christmas.
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Work on the playfield has begun as well. Started with the bottom of course. Decided to avoid using a ground braid and went with an insulated wire instead.
The dremel works well for burnishing the light sockets. It is important to do this to get a solid solder joint.
I like using truss screws on the underside. It’s $6 for 100 screws and makes putting it back together so much simpler. I use #6 and #8s. The 6s are for light sockets etc., and the 8s are for anything mechanical like flippers.
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Here is a progress pic on the underside of the playfield. Before I can complete it, I need to redo the connectors on the wire harness.
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I am curious how you solder that insulated wire to the sockets, just melt your way through the insulation?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I am curious how you solder that insulated wire to the sockets, just melt your way through the insulation?
Use a wire stripper and cut the insulation where you want to solder. Pull back the insulation with your fingers leaving a small gap. The gap should be wider than your solder gun tip. Tin both the wire and socket. Then join them. With a little bit of practice you can make some nice looking joints. Avoid burning the insulation as much as possible as it looks ugly.
Working on the inside panel for the tilt bob, etc. I bought zebra wood to because I love the strong grain. I predrilled it with pilot holes by clamping the old board on top of the new board and drilling through the old board into the new one. I sanded with 220 and 400 between coats of General Finishes Arm-r-seal satin top coat. I have applied 3 coats and should be ready for installation tomorrow.
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Quoted from jawjaw:Glad to see some more action on this build.
Me too!! I like to get these projects done in around 2 months or so but delays i can't control always set me back. I can see the finish line.
Zemst
Quoted from thierryv:just my few cents ,
if you have a brush / polishing machine you can make the " tilt ball " shine like new !
It will make it complete ...
I will give it a shot!
Laval, QC
Quoted from Tbgolfen:Time to put the head back on the cabinet. I needed to clean up the displays a bit. I submerged them in the ultrasonic bath just barely above the board. Here is a comparison with a clean one on the left.
[quoted image]
Didn’t know we can put it in the ultrasonic bath! How long you put it...
Quoted from Tbgolfen:Time to put the head back on the cabinet. I needed to clean up the displays a bit. I submerged them in the ultrasonic bath just barely above the board. Here is a comparison with a clean one on the left.
[quoted image]
I should try this, what was in the bath when you did it? Just water?
Quoted from Tbgolfen:Time to put the head back on the cabinet. I needed to clean up the displays a bit. I submerged them in the ultrasonic bath just barely above the board. Here is a comparison with a clean one on the left.
[quoted image]
Quoted from Redketchup:Didn’t know we can put it in the ultrasonic bath! How long you put it...
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I should try this, what was in the bath when you did it? Just water?
Danger Will Robinson Danger!! Looks to me like he only dipped the circuit board into the ultrasonic bath and NOT the display. I can't imagine the display itself liking any liquid bath of any kind....
Quoted from AUKraut:Danger Will Robinson Danger!! Looks to me like he only dipped the circuit board into the ultrasonic bath and NOT the display. I can't imagine the display itself liking any liquid bath of any kind....
That's what i understand
I caught the part where only the PCB is being dipped. Not sure why a sealed glass display would mind getting wet though.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I should try this, what was in the bath when you did it? Just water?
I use distilled water and a little simple green. I keep the temperature around 40 celsius or 104 Fahrenheit and dipped just the PCB for 4 minutes or so.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I caught the part where only the PCB is being dipped. Not sure why a sealed glass display would mind getting wet though.
I don't really know.
Cleaning up the display is good but not enough. You need to upgrade all the 100K ohms resistors, especially on the 6 digits display unit, for reliable performances. Also, I would reflow all connector pins, with fresh solder.
Reflow means: sucking away the old solder and replacing it with fresh one.
Yves
8 months later
2 years later
I am excited to say that my games are out of storage and in their new home. Here are some long awaited final pictures of this project.
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1 week later
Quoted from Tbgolfen:I am excited to say that my games are out of storage and in their new home. Here are some long awaited final pictures of this project.
Looks absolutely fantastic. Love this game, it is worthy of your efforts.
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