Raleigh, NC
7 flashes 
(Topic ID: 9408)
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Flash Gordon
Bally, 1981-
Harlem Globetrotters On Tour
Bally, 1979
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I removed the small connected on the lower right. No problems. Nothing locking on. I put it back on, I immediately here the one pop bumper I have hooked up pop and hold and heat up.
Maybe I can video record a sample of the start up and focus on the red light. Want me to do that? Then you can see if I'm seeing 6 or 7 flashes.
I've about exhausted all I know to tell you to check. I have a feeling you have a bad chip or bad socket, but without a logic probe and being able to put eyes on the board and on a schematic it will be near impossible to troubleshoot remotely. If I were you, I'd implore one of the many chicago gurus to give you some hands on help, or bite the bullet, package up the MPU and SDB and send them to one of the reputable board repair shops.
I hear ya. I'll try and call up one of the pinball tech tomorrow and see what they can do. I hope they have better luck than us. Sure would be a shame if they come over and do the same things we did and can't figure it out.
But thanks again. When I do get this, I'll be sure and share the info.
So, I had an official pinball tech come spend an hour with it today. He couldn't fix it either. He traced out all the same stuff we did. Scratched his head and said, sorry, can't help.
He did however eliminate the possibility that the mpu and power module are bad. He brought a new one of each and swapped them out. No difference. The game still wouldn't fire up all the way.
He did say he thinks the Solenoid Board and Squawk & Talk is having issues. The both seem stuck on. The green light on the S&T is on solid. Never powers through any flashes. The amp is good. The speakers are good too.
I guess I'm going to have to try calling in another tech who may know more. We'll see...
Sorry you're still struggling. You did try to boot with the S&T disconnected right? A bad S&T can stop the game even after 7 flashes and keep it from booting.
Since we've ruled out MPU and Power module, let's focus on the solenoid driver board too. From Clay's guide:
Next check is the C23 filter 12 volt capacitor on the Solenoid driver board (as discussed earlier in this document). If it is not doing its job (old & worn out), the 5 volt power supply will not be as smooth as the game may require. This can cause the MPU board to lock-up and freeze during game play. Use a DMM set to AC volts, and put the DMM leads on both lugs of C23. If more than .250 volts AC is seen, this capacitor definately has failed (actually if more than .150 volts AC is seen, the cap is on it's way out). Replace C23 with a new 10,000 to 15,000 mfd 20 volt capacitor. If your game has more than two flippers, use a 15,000 mfd cap.
AND check the J3 connector:
Another easy test of the SDB J3 connector are the three test points right next to the J3 connector. The top-most TP5 should be the input 12 volts (12 to 14 volts DC unregulated). Next below this are the two 5 volt test points TP1 and TP3 (should show 4.95 to 5.25 volts DC). If there is any difference in voltages between these two test points, there are connector problems on the SDB J3 connector. To help take some pressure off the J3 connector, I solder a wire between TP1 and TP3. But PLEASE verify these are the 5 volt test points on your SDB. Because if you connect the 12 volt TP5 to TP1/TP3, you will blow up all sorts of chips on the MPU board!
Well hello again Robert. I thought you'd go running seeing me back up again. hahahaha. I would! This machine is crazy!!! But thanks.
So, yes, we tried powering up with a limited system that included trying to power up with the S&T unplugged.
Also, the S&T LED just comes on solid. No change. No flickers.
I'll check those readings next.
On the S&T:
TP1 = Ground = Yes
TP2 = +5 vdc = 5.1 vdc
TP3 = +11.5 vdc = 13.2 vdc
TP4 = -5 vdc = -5 vdc
More on S&T booting from Clay
S&T Board Reset/Boot Problems.
The Squawk and Talk board is not unlike the MPU board. It too is a computer, with a reset section, and an LED which "flashes". The flashes determine if the board has a "boot" (turn on) problem. But before the board boots, it needs to "reset" (hold the CPU's /Reset line low until +5 volts can stablize, and then allow the /Reset line to go high and start the boot process).
Often this reset process never happens, and the S&T board never boots (LED locked on). Since there is no battery on this board, battery corrosion usually isn't causing any problems (unlike the MPU board!) But the reset section can have faulty parts. One common thing that fails is capacitor C1 (47mfd 16 volt). Replacing this part, or the reset transistors, can often solve a S&T boot/reset problem.
Next check is the C23 filter:
With my goofy DMM set to 600AC, I get a reading of 030 vac off that C23 filter capacitor.
When I set it to 200AV, I get 30.4.
Sounds like that cap is blown...If we were able to put a scope on the 5V signal, you'd see a bumpy waveform instead of a smooth 5V.
If you indeed measured correctly, then you may have found your problem.
However, I don't see how you could have 30V here....It should only have a 5V ripple.
Also, it seems that when I hold the dmm on those posts for the C23 filter, the dmm readings change. They fluctuate from 29.0 - 30.5 vac.
There is another large capacitor on the SDB. Called C26. Is that something I should get a reading from?
Must be your meter....someone else had the same problem and same result measuring C23
http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=175647
Try this....
Once the machine boots past 7 flashes, on the S&T, BRIEFLY touch TP12 to GND....That's the reset signal to the S&T CPU. See if the LED starts flashing.
I did and the light went out for a second, then i pushed the red button again and it came back on, but still no flashes. i did hear some clicking and popping from the speaker though. not game noise, but static or white noise.
At this point, knowing you have a good power board and MPU, I would do this:
http://stevekulpa.net/pinrepair/bally_rsound.htm
http://stevekulpa.net/pinrepair/bally_rsole.htm
Steve wrote the book on Bally boards and his prices are reasonable and turn around time less than a week.
It will likely be far less than the cost of getting another pin tech in there to scratch his head and say I don't know
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