(Topic ID: 226393)

Bally fireball classic Cheap Squeak sound board blows F3 fuse

By dogman

5 years ago


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#1 5 years ago

Hi all,

I picked a Fireball classic. Game wouldn't boot and I found the F3 fuse blown.
i figured out that it came from the sound board. I removed all connectors, then plugged them in one at a time to the various different boards
in the game,
Well, I found the F3 fuse to blow when I powered on with the sound board connected.

I did a lot of digging and I am finding that at Q7 I am getting a bad reading of .187

When I pull the leg it checks good

I took a look at the schematic and see it was attached to a cap and a few resistors.

I pulled the leg of the 47uf cap and it reads 54uf so I am fine with that. The resistors also checked good.

Then we have a chip that I am not sure how to test. it is a ZN429 e-8. I am guessing at this point that it is bad. I crossed it and cannot find it for sale anywhere except ebay. I am leaning to replace it but wanted feedback. I do see that it goes straight into the 6803 chip as well.

I did see another post about this topic, but my 6803 chip is good as I have checked it with another.

Any thought, ideas?

Thank you,

dogman

#2 5 years ago

Not to insult but did you check for frayed speaker wiring or fried speaker?

#3 5 years ago

The ZN429 is a digital to analog converter. That's not your problem, it wouldn't cause a fuse to blow if it went bad. You might have a short on your 12 volt line. It comes in at J1-10. Check diodes D6 D7 and D8 first.

#4 5 years ago

I origianlly checked all of the diodes and all check good. I did not have any frayed wiring.
I will look over the entire 12 volt line.

Thank you again

#5 5 years ago

Next I would look at the 5 volt regulator on the board downstream from the diodes. Sometimes they short out.

#6 5 years ago

The tantalum caps also sometimes short out along the 12v path. C10 and a couple others.

#7 5 years ago

I am leaning on the 4700uf. That is the first point of entry and the fuse blows immediately. I lifted out the legs of the diode D6, D7, D8 and it checked good.
I did check the 5V circuit. I did not have any bad readings. Still bothers me about the Q7 reading in the circuit but when i lifted the leg I get a good read.
Also, that is not the power section. I am thinking about just shotgunning the whole power section!

Thanks again for all your help!!

#8 5 years ago

Before you go through all that you should test resistance on C10 C22 and C17. I'm betting that one of those is shorted. The 4700uf cap is pretty sturdy and usually only goes open when it fails.

#9 5 years ago

Ok, thank you for the heads up!! I will definitely do that for sure.

Craig

#10 5 years ago

Npdate:

Thank you for all the help!! I replaced the (3) Tants C10 - C17 - C22 4.7uf @ 25 with 4.7uf @50 and the board does not blow the fuse and longer and the game boots. I am expericencing no sounds with the test button depressed, but i do believe that the ROMs need to be replaced. Someone that had the game before me did not have the correct orientation on the ROMs.

#11 5 years ago

The rom sockets usually have 28 pins on these, but the original roms are only 24pin. make sure you install the roms with pins 1,2, 27 and 28 empty.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

The rom sockets usually have 28 pins on these, but the original roms are only 24pin. make sure you install the roms with pins 1,2, 27 and 28 empty.

I was wonderiing about this! Thank you for the heads up!

#13 5 years ago

I sometimes worry about the CheapSqueek in my Fireball Classic, without those original response sounds it would be much less desirable. In my opinion Bally/Midway achieved perfection with the limited tunes available, Fireball Classic is pleasing, not annoying like more than a few of its SS siblings.
Translation, I would love to have a fresh backup in the cabinet.

1 year later
#14 3 years ago

Thanks guys. Just had the same symptoms on my FBC and tant caps were the issue! This thread helped a lot!

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