I would be very grateful for a close up of the correct post/plastic configuration around the captive ball entrance. Surely there ought to be some rubber protection around this area. The rubber ring chart has me stumped. Here's a couple of shots that's in my game. Many thanks to anyone that will take the trouble for me
IPDB shows a post on the right that you don't have. http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=853&picno=30729&zoom=1
This shot appears to have a post with two rubbers on the left side: http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=853&picno=21614
I can possibly drop by Pinballz in the next couple days and take a couple pictures of theirs if you want.
Hmmm very strange there are no screw holes in that area on my play field for that nylon post in the first pic, just does not look right. The second pic shows two red posts and does not have a 2 inch ring stretching across the switch, the switch is completely bare
Yes please I would very much like you to do that for me. I want to know exactly how it should be. Thanks
Ballyoldboy, your setup is correct. There is no rubber protection. Only the captive ball and the plastic lane guides on each side.
The first pic in the above post has had an extra post added due to the plastic lane guide breaking.
I worked on one awhile back that had a similar post installed due to a broken guide. I ended up having to make two new guides out of lexan.
Quoted from grbgemen:Ballyoldboy, your setup is correct. There is no rubber protection. Only the captive ball and the plastic lane guides on each side.
Doesn't seem poss that that Bally designed a high impact crash point against bear plastic, what were they thinking of?? That nylon post in one picture looks awful and of course restricts the "aim point" considerably.
My game has suffered some damage but I'm hoping to come up with some tidy idea to prevent further carnage. Seems odd that a rubber ring kit shows two rings in that area, but there are no grooves in any posts to support a ring (the Bally manual shows nothing in that area) I'm still hoping that YeOldPinPlayer can get some shots of an original set-up.
Can't believe this point hasn't been brought up before
There's nothing to fix.
You need to either find the angled plastics for the front of the messenger ball, or rig up a homemade something.
You can create a system where the post rings hold the ball in (like Lost World) - but it may involve drilling into the playfield.
Sorry for late reply. Thanks for those excellent pix, your time and effort is well appreciated Not a hint of damage at all ....yet.
Take a look at this, what a neat way to end the prob forever!! But needs to be done before the start of damage to be perfect.
I wonder if a clear plastic set can be found anywhere, and then do this beautiful mod.
Many thanks again
I love the idea of additional protection. Be wary of making that shot more difficult. Starting the three ball multiball is an important part of the game and cradling for a controlled shot isn't usually possible on the one I play.
Yes I agree, any protection from damage will always make the shot harder, but technically as the plastic is slowly being nibbled away the shot is slowly getting easier.
Your damned if you do and damned if you don't
Quoted from Ballyoldboy:Your damned if you do and damned if you don't
I think you're more damned if you decide to drill two holes in your playfield for posts like that. Permanently modifying a playfield to save a couple of easily replicated plastic parts seems kinda heinous to me.
Totally agree with @mbaumle, and it's already a tough shot, mainly because the captive ball is the same mass as the ball in play. You can get more action from it if you use a lighter weight ball, allowing it to reach the target without needing an absolute direct hit. The rollover switches need fine tuning for the reduced weight. I'm experimenting with various types of balls, but the best bet might be the colored balls that Mezelmods sell (though they are only slighter lighter).
Totally disagree with you.
Changing the mass of captive ball is changing the game. And does nothing to address the original point.
Tell you what.... Lets get rid of all rubber and smash play field to bits
Quoted from Ballyoldboy:Tell you what.... Lets get rid of all rubber and smash play field to bits
Ok, sorry got a bit heated there
It's just that not everyone has the skills or materials to replace damaged furniture. I stand by my original point that Bally surely made a bad design decision on this game feature. How to ....... shall we say, if you want to avoid further damage is a matter of personal taste.
Still friends?
No worries. Just really can't abide drilling additional posts into that beautiful playfield, and it surely makes the shot harder than it needs to be. But you gotta do what you gotta do. Certainly an interesting solution!
Mine has the posts added. I thought this was just standard as Im pretty sure that every fireball Ive seen has had tgis done. Granted thats maybe 5 in all. It doesn't have to make the game harder, simply shave the sides of the plastics down so the ball can roll a bit farther. It doesn't affect game play at all like this. Any well placed shot will make it to the stand up.
Quoted from Thrillhouse:Mine has the posts added. I thought this was just standard as Im pretty sure that every fireball Ive seen has had this done.
Hi @Thrillhouse, I think your mod is absolutely spot on, I love it.
But I have spotted the extra playfield hole just above the right hand new post, tut tut 
Up until your post, I was loosing the battle to save those plastic edges but I do understand that drilling into playfield is absolute sacrilege to some
BUT ....... I am having a slight change of heart as I bet the balls deflect in directions that a non modified game has never done before. Pretty sure you would probably have a shock playing a standard game as your'e so accustomed to those "weird deflections"
Hmmmm what to do what to do
Hey just noticed this is not a Fireball classic. The thumper caps are a dead giveaway, but same problem
Have you noticed how far up the captive ball is in YeOldPinPlayer pix are?
Not right is it?
IMG_1592 (resized).JPGIMG_1593 (resized).JPG
A ground-down Gottlieb post adds a little more beef in this area. Despite being a relatively low-play machine the metal post was missing.Still doesn't solve the problem, notice chunk knocked out of left guide. I will eventually make new clear plastics since nobody here does it.
IMG_1594 (resized).JPG
Don't forget the mini-post o-ring behind Odin and Wotan, a lot of times missing and helps seat the ball without metal to metal contact.
Quoted from phil-lee:Don't forget the mini-post o-ring behind Odin and Wotan.
So that's where my two "spare" rings go in my kit. You're a genius.
As a side issue, what a shame Bally didn't have the imagination to make the 4th and 5th bonus lights something different, other than just plain white. I'm getting my Sharpie's out, got a 16 colour (color in the USA) pack.
34 credits!!!!
Just spent a small fortune on spares, coloured bulbs will have to wait.
sharpie's will do the same job
........ and where is your 4th display?
Don't damage the playfield by adding more posts!
Just get a scrap of clear plastic from HD and cut a replacement, using the old ones as a template.
Just remember to add the worn off hooks back onto the fronts.
(if anyone has a laser cutter at work, I can scan 2 perfect originals if they want to cut a bunch for the group here.)
Get an appropriate piece of rubber hose,ie small fuel line or vacuum line and split it lengthwise on one side. Cut to size and slide over the edges of the plastics in danger. Very cheap, and reversible if you don't like it.
Quoted from vid1900:(if anyone has a laser cutter at work, I can scan 2 perfect originals if they want to cut a bunch for the group here.)
I would die to get a couple of spares. If this takes off count me in Ballyoldboy or John
In the UK
I read the first post only. Here is are two pictures of the area in question. The first picture shows NOS screened plastics and clear plastics as installed. The captive ball is held in position by the protrusions on the clear plastics which basically constrict the opening so the ball doesn't fall out. The second picture shows the clear plastics before the chrome metal stand-offs are swaged to the plastics. I have no additional protective posts installed and this has never been a problem. JLC
Quoted from fordtudoor:I have no additional protective posts installed and this has never been a problem. JLC
You have a beautiful playfield and looks immaculate. Your pix are very useful to me as I now know what an undamaged profile should look like. I did not know that posts were swaged into them, this makes home-made copies even harder to replicate.
If you read other posts you will see that there can be a considerable amount of damage in this area, and many attempts have been made to solve it.
Many thanks
Quoted from Ballyoldboy:34 credits!!!!
Just spent a small fortune on spares, coloured bulbs will have to wait.
sharpie's will do the same job
........ and where is your 4th display?
The 4th display is shot, considering changing them all to blue. The credits popped up when I replaced the mpu battery.
Quoted from Ballyoldboy:You have a beautiful playfield and looks immaculate. Your pix are very useful to me as I now know what an undamaged profile should look like. I did not know that posts were swaged into them, this makes home-made copies even harder to replicate.
If you read other posts you will see that there can be a considerable amount of damage in this area, and many attempts have been made to solve it.
Many thanks
BOB, I own a very nice custom (cabinet and zipper flippers) "Fireball Classic". In the 70's and 80's Bally would swage die-formed sheetmetal standoffs to their clear plastics. It saved money and having to fumble for posts when assembling. JLC
Quoted from fordtudoor:The second picture shows the clear plastics before the chrome metal stand-offs are swaged to the plastics
Just noticed you are showing only the left hand side. The pieces are asymmetrical
You can't just flip it over to make a pair. What you are showing can never work.
As my right hand piece has been broken and bodged, does anyone know the full length of that piece? Thanks
They are the same but they are different. What I mean by that is the same piece of raw plastic was used for both sides. The width and length are the same. They are different because due to the asymmetrical location of the lamps sticking up through the playfield Bally had to juggle the location of the metal standoffs. I have three (3) of the left side plastics and none of the right side. You can use the left side as a template to make the outline of the right and then determine where the holes should be located looking at the playfield. They both start at the same location (opening) and extend to the same spot on either side of the red bullseye target.
Thank you fordtudoor .
That is great to know, just different hole locations. I have found a UK supplier who wants cardboard stencils. I think I will go ahead and drill the holes myself
Hi guys. Just found this post.
Vid, if you can send some kind of actual size template from your originals, that would be helpful.
I dont have a laser cutter, but i can try to freehand it.
I ended up using fat style 5/16 O.D. rubber rings. 2 on the left, and one on the right. Slipped them over the metal spacer posts. Also loosened the lane guide screws, and squeezed them closer together, then retightened. Seems to be working for now, plus it adds rubber to soften the area. Thanks. Sparky
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