My right and left flipper buttons are now scoring 10 points with each depression. I placed paper in the rollover switches, rebound switches and sling shots to see if vibration from the flippers was actuating the score. ( all of the 10 point switches) No change. I can’t identify any point on the schematic where BOTH the right and left flipper buttons interact with the 10 point scoring circuit. As far as I can tell, the right flipper button only actuates the right flipper solenoid. The left flipper button does the same for the left solenoid and also actuates the lock relay to power up the playfield. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

10 point relay is in the back box. Holding in flipper button does not hold in the 10 point relay. Relay fires once with each right or left flipper button press.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I’ll try measuring voltage after work tonight. I’m still trying to reason out how pressing the right flipper button would have any effect on anything but powering the flipper coil. Based on the schematic, I can’t see any other circuit that the right flipper button interacts with. There is an EOS switch on the 10-90 step up solenoid which advances the score reel by 10. This switch keeps the 10 point relay energized to allow for score reel advancement. I can’t see how that circuit is affected by the flippers.

Placed paper between the leaf switches for the rollover switches, rebound switches and the leaf switches for the sling shots. “Deactivated” all of the 10 point leaf switches to see if flipper vibration was causing 10 point relay activation. No change....had no effect. Sizteves...I like your idea about a potential short with the metal frame of the zipper flipper assembly. Will check that out. Thanks

Thanks for the info. I didn’t block the underplayfield switchs. Didn’t realize that a third switch on the slingshot mechanism actually actuates the 10 point relay. Will be checking that and going over the flipper mechanisms looking for any potential short.

I disassembled and deactivated all of the lower playfield 10 point rollover switches and the two slingshot ten point switches. No change. Still score ten point with RT and LT flipper actuation. I visibly inspected the entire zipper flipper mechanism. Can’t find any bare wires or touching wires. I jumpered the RT flipper coil, connected it directly to Yellow (center transformer) and +50 volts RED (other side of flipper coil and EOS switch. When I did this using the fireball transformer I got the same behavior, scores 10 points when actuating the RT flipper coil. I then did the same thing using power from another Bally machine(nip-it). When I did this I only actuated the flipper, got no 10 point coil activation. This makes me think that there is no short from the zipper flipper assembly to the 10 point circuit. Does this indicate a short along another point in the ten point scoring circuit? Should I try to “isolate” this circuit ? That seems like a big undertaking, may have to unbundle some cable bundles. Also, I tried measuring the voltage across the ten point coil. Only got a garbage reading. Do I have to disconnect the hot lead from the coil to measure? Thanks. Karl

Yes. With the game reset and in play mode, hitting the RT and LT flipper buttons actuates the flipper coil and scores 10 points.
I disconnected the +50 lead to the RT flipper coil , pushed button, nothing, no 10 points or coil activation. Did the same for the yellow
Ground (neutral) lead on the other side of the coil and EOS switch. Pushed button, no 10 point score or coil activation.
Fed RT flipper coil directly from the transformer ...scored 10 points. Did it from another pinball machine transformer...NO 10 point score.
Thanks. Karl

Thanks for all of the comments on my problem. I rewired all of the 10 point switches with a replacement wire jumper which connects back to the hot terminal on the 10 point relay. I was able to then systematically disconnect each switch. I found that only one switch being “active” caused the flipper 10 point activation. It is the upper left rebound switch, across from the upper left pop bumper. I going to try to rewire the yellow neutral lead on this switch to another position (possibly another 10 point switch yellow neutral ). If this works, then there is some short on this switch circuit to the flippers (probably its yellow neutral lead) . Won’t be able to actually identify it without unbundling lots of cable bundles. Don’t think I’ll do that. Karl