Escape from the Lost World
Bally, 1987The shooter lane was getting chewed up a bit so I decided to cut a steel flap and install it to protect the kick-out against the rail.
Had this lying around so I cut it with a hacksaw and dremel cutting wheel, then cleaned up the edges a bit.
installed:
Couldn't get the screws flush but the balls don't hit them so not a big worry.
Quoted from Mbecker:The shooter lane was getting chewed up a bit so I decided to cut a steel flap and install it to protect the kick-out against the rail.
Had this lying around so I cut it with a hacksaw and dremel cutting wheel, then cleaned up the edges a bit.
installed:
Couldn't get the screws flush but the balls don't hit them so not a big worry.
New Rubbers. Amazing what a difference $15 of rubber makes on the overall appearance of a game.. especially when they haven't been changed in decades and are all dried up.
Before pictures for comparison:
And some rubbers installed after:
How many games this early have a feed-thru on the backboard? I honestly don't know but I can't think of that many games that have them period, so I'm guessing this might be one of the first few examples of it?
Here's the before and after of the little loop thru the backboard shot that is repeatable via the upper right flipper.
Got the mylar over the middle window. Tried to bump it up with a gasket but it was too much and caused the window edge to bulge where the screws weren't securing it. Ended up only placing foam around a couple screw holes and under the top edge which got it leveled perfect with the playfield. Than Mylar over everything. Toyed with the idea of just doing the painted areas.. probably could have been fine but I thought the interface with the window would over time cause the mylar edge to lift.
I did some ramp reforming with a heat gun which I didn't capture.. used some wood to reshape it.. they heat up pretty quick with the heat gun and are easily formable. I don't know if the gap on the upper left side between ramps was always there but there didn't seem a good way to fix it without a lot of work so I just got it set up for good ball flow.
The lower apron is really interesting as a design, with the ramp built into it on the right side.
Here's everything all put back together. I did repaint a couple parts of the gold bridge, which are unforunately a little more obvious than hoped. Turns out that gold spray paint is not a good match for the original. I could have gone over the whole thing and cleared it but that seemed like a bit too much work for a shop out.. so I left it as is. It's better than the bare metal which was there before on the two spots.
Whoops I lied, forgot I took a couple pictures of the glass.. any other games do decals on the glass like this for a 3d effect? Gotta only be a couple of them..
One other thing I found -- the cabinet on (all, most?) Bally's.. I love this design as well. It has a strange lip on the front, which makes it great for being able to reach under and lift. It also makes it a little awkward on a standard handtruck, but I think it's a fair trade-off.
Finally, I disconnected the head from the cab and pulled the PF to move this to the game room. Not too much wires, but I discovered this connector prevents you from pulling the PF out without being also attached to the cab wiring (cab switches, etc). Not sure why they choose to do this.. but as you can see I clipped the orange/white wire and added a connector so that the harnesses now come apart for easy removal of the PF, leaving the cab wiring intact.
looks great. If I kept mine, I was going to paint the gold bridge and make it looks like gold bricks, with moss and dirt growing between the gold road/bricks. Then clear over the top of it.
Looks fantastic! I'm a big fan of this game, and you made yours really shine.
Just curious, but what did you do to clean the ramps. Did you just use Novus or did you flame polish?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:looks great. If I kept mine, I was going to paint the gold bridge and make it looks like gold bricks, with moss and dirt growing between the gold road/bricks. Then clear over the top of it.
Thanks thats a fantastic idea neo!! May have to revisit this later down the road. That would really make it a tricky shot if you could get some 3D effect going on too with the bricks, maybe molded.
Quoted from Nokoro:Looks fantastic! I'm a big fan of this game, and you made yours really shine.
Just curious, but what did you do to clean the ramps. Did you just use Novus or did you flame polish?
No flames on this one. They really weren't bad to be honest, just cleaner and a bit of novus. All the clear ramps are all covered anyway, I don't think there's anything visible?
I added a post last night to protect the left ramp/mystery path. Easy to see why this got broken in the first place. Doesn't affect gameplay but def. protects ramp wall. Thanks HighVoltage for coming by with the post!
I'm not usually one to drill holes in pfs or add hardware but this seemed needed.
Quoted from Mbecker:Here's a lower flipper mech. For anyone shopping an escape and reading this, note that the lower flippers need an extra switch stack in addition to what you get with a flipper rebuild kit. The extra switch is activated when the cabinet flipper button is pressed and the lower flippers activate, pushing the stack out which engages the higher resistance winding path on the lower flippers and activates the upper flippers after the full stroke of the lowers.
The upper flippers in turn have their own EOS switch stack that activates the higher resistance winding path for holding the flippers. This was my first time shopping a bally.. I really appreciate the way they built the mechs here vs a WMS. I like the plungers are cut-out and separate from the lever arm link whereas williams uses the fiberboard linkage. Kind of a cool design.
However I failed to notice that there was not ONE but TWO allen screws holding the flipper shafts. I removed one on each lower flipper and then tried like hell with a hammer and pliers to get the bats/shafts apart, assuming wrongly that the problem was caused by the shafts being so beat up over from from the screws digging into them. I did eventually get them off, and later realized my mistake when I went to remove the upper flippers. Amazingly easier to remove the flipper shafts when BOTH allen screws are removed. HA!! Def. drew some blood on that mistake, although there was plenty more to come.
Couple broken bushings, nice that they come with the kit unlike williams kits that I have got.
Picture of the old contacts from the upper flippers.. pretty shot.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mbecker do you know where I can find these switches? I need to replace mine and cross-referencing the part number in the manual isn't pulling up anything. Thx
Quoted from TonytheLawnboy:mbecker do you know where I can find these switches? I need to replace mine and cross-referencing the part number in the manual isn't pulling up anything. Thx
TonytheLawnboy great question — you need the extra switch that doesn’t come in the rebuild kit, yeah? I can check tmrw and see if I come up with anything. I likely either had some extra switches from a previous shop out or picked up something from Marco that looked right. But I’ll see if I come up with an invoice from then that had them
Quoted from 29REO:Those wires go to the micro switch under the roll over switch.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks a lot.
I was guessing that ^^ You wouldn't have a close up of the switch without the ramp by any chance?
So that I can see which wire goes to which tab of the switch in order to resolder it? 
Quoted from 29REO:Here you go:
[quoted image]
White goes to Normally Closed
Yellow goes to Normally Open
The diode goes from the white on the Normally closed with the band side of the diode attached to the Common tab.
Awesome!
Huge thanks!
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