(Topic ID: 208366)

Bally - Embryon - Game Will Not Boot...

By pinlink

6 years ago


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  • 39 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Embryon was working fine one day, and doing this the next.

I am getting the first flicker, followed by flashes 1, 2, and 3. I am not getting the 4, 5, 6, and 7th flash. After the 3rd flash the MPU loses the 5V LED and the game just kind of stops trying to boot but the GI stays on. Sometimes there will be a voice callout from the game, but not always.

6f68f2b24346ee0bb256bae383cd4c3249bf7561 (resized).jpg6f68f2b24346ee0bb256bae383cd4c3249bf7561 (resized).jpg

I am using a new altek MPU, and even swapped this MPU into another game and it worked great, so its not the MPU.

I also swapped in a known working bridge rectifier boad and solenoid board with no change in behavior.

The Voltage on the Solenoid Driver Board seems to come and go. I was able to test at all TP's at one point and here is what I got:

TP1 - 5.2
TP2 - 135
TP3 - 5.1
TP4 - 188
TP5 - 15.95

Should be:
e366d4149fb8afa779df38331242b80241bccd8b.png (resized).jpge366d4149fb8afa779df38331242b80241bccd8b.png (resized).jpg

Now I am not able to get a reading on the TP's at all. It just shows 0 VDC. (where does the voltage come into the SD board?)

I have noticed that when testing TP5 and TP1 on the SD board, a solenoid will fire. Not sure if that is normal? The same solenoid was also firing when testing the Rectifier Board, and when gently tugging on the wires at J3 and J4 on the SD board..

I have completely repinned all of the connections on both the MPU and Solenoid Driver board. I even repinned J4 twice haha!

What am I missing here, what should I look at next?

#2 6 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Now I am not able to get a reading on the TP's at all. It just shows 0 VDC. (where does the voltage come into the SD board?)

Which test points? All? Meter good and set to DC? Most everything comes in and out of J3 on the SDB.

Quoted from pinlink:

The same solenoid was also firing when testing the Rectifier Board, and when gently tugging on the wires at J3 and J4 on the SD board..

That's not good, you are moving something physically and it is shorting something else out in another harness or board. The solenoid is not going to fire unless a ground is applied to it. Or, in the case of a physical switch directly controlling a pop bumper - can be tripped by vibration alone.

Quoted from pinlink:

What am I missing here, what should I look at next?

Back up the truck and examine systematically:

Pull off power and connectors off MPU and SDB board.
Upgrade and check rectifier board and voltages first
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#ps

once satisfied with the rectifier boardL
Upgrade SDB board, connect and test all voltages there
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#cap

Yank on those cables and make sure no solenoids are not firing.

Lastly, upgrade ground on MPU, connect and test.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#mpumod

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Back up the truck and examine systematically:

Pull off power and connectors off MPU and SDB board.
Upgrade and check rectifier board and voltages first
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#ps

once satisfied with the rectifier boardL
Upgrade SDB board, connect and test all voltages there
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#cap

Yank on those cables and make sure no solenoids are not firing.

Lastly, upgrade ground on MPU, connect and test.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#mpumod

The boards are good. I just took the Bridge Rectifier board, the Solenoid driver board, and the MPU (seperately, not at the same time) and put them in a different game (Fathom), and it booted up perfectly.

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

The boards are good. I just took the Bridge Rectifier board, the Solenoid driver board, and the MPU (seperately, not at the same time) and put them in a different game (Fathom), and it booted up perfectly.

It's not possible for the game to boot with zero volts on all the test points - you must have either had a problem with the meter/meter setting/or bad point of reference for ground when measuring. The boards are good, so logically there must be a problem elsewhere. You should still systematically install each one at a time taking measurements along the way. If you install everything at once you are going to have a more difficult time narrowing the problem down.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

It's not possible for the game to boot with zero volts on all the test points - you must have either had a problem with the meter/meter setting/or bad point of reference for ground when measuring. The boards are good, so logically there must be a problem elsewhere. You should still systematically install each one at a time taking measurements along the way. If you install everything at once you are going to have a more difficult time narrowing the problem down.

Sorry, when i said "zero volts on all the test points", I just meant on the Solenoid Driver board. I found that if i push in on the board, or like i said earlier, push/pull the wires, I can then get a reading which will stay for a few minutes it seems.

#6 6 years ago

First off, this game needs 2 balls to boot up. If one is missing it will not boot all the way.

Assuming you have 2 balls present, it could be a zero crossing failure. So measure the following on the MPU board and confirm:

TP2 - 8v
TP3 - 21v
TP5 - 5v

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Sorry, when i said "zero volts on all the test points", I just meant on the Solenoid Driver board. I found that if i push in on the board, or like i said earlier, push/pull the wires, I can then get a reading which will stay for a few minutes it seems.

are you screwing the board in? Board gets its connection to common ground through the screw mounts.

Sounds like you have bad solder joints on the headers... I think it's J2 where the power comes in? Look at the manual for the interconnect wiring and make sure your high voltage, and 12V are getting from the rectifier board to the SDB.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

First off, this game needs 2 balls to boot up. If one is missing it will not boot all the way.
Assuming you have 2 balls present, it could be a zero crossing failure. So measure the following on the MPU board and confirm:
TP2 - 8v
TP3 - 21v
TP5 - 5v

Yes I have 2 balls installed. OK I took some measurements but what you wrote and what it says on the board are different. Here are my results and a pic of the TPs on the MPU.

TP2 - 44.7
TP4 - 0.8
TP6 - 23.2

I also tested at points on the SDB and got this:

TP1 - 5.2
TP2 - 129.7
TP3 - 5.2
TP4 - 173.2
TP5 - 15.8

IMG_4843 (resized).JPGIMG_4843 (resized).JPG

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

are you screwing the board in? Board gets its connection to common ground through the screw mounts.

Yes, it's screwed in. And still as I am testing these points, that same solenoid is firing when I touch the DMM to the TPs.

Edit: same solenoid fires when testing the sound from the sound board. Weird

#10 6 years ago

Also, the 5V is present on the MPU at TP4 until after the 3rd flash. Then it disappears

#11 6 years ago

129 on TP2? Is that a typo?? If not shut it down! That should be 43v coil voltage.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

129 on TP2? Is that a typo?? If not shut it down! That should be 43v coil voltage.

TP2 on the SD board.

Results of MPU tests
TP2 - 44.7
TP4 - 0.8
TP6 - 23.2

Results of SDB tests
TP1 - 5.2
TP2 - 129.7
TP3 - 5.2
TP4 - 173.2
TP5 - 15.8

#13 6 years ago

To be clear, you have 5v on TP1 of the solenoid driver and at the same time 0v on TP5 of the MPU?
If that's the case there is a problem with the wire or connections. Those points are the same. Check J3-14,15 on the sol driver board. I would reflow those connections.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

TP5 of the MPU

Do you mean TP4?

#15 6 years ago

OK but I see what you are saying. I have 5V at the SDB but not the MPU so it is lost somewhere between the two, correct?

Again, i have put this same SDB in a different game and it worked perfectly so I don't think it is the header pins. I also repinned the connector at J3. should I repin it again? I feel like i did a good job the first time. Thank you for the help so far.

I guess my next question is, is there a specific wire that takes the 5v from the sdb to the mpu?

And again, the 5V is present at the MPU briefly but goes away after the 3rd flash. So it is getting there for a moment.

#16 6 years ago

Anyone know why this would be happening?

Quoted from pinlink:

5V is present at the MPU briefly but goes away after the 3rd flash. So it is getting there for a moment.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

To be clear, you have 5v on TP1 of the solenoid driver and at the same time 0v on TP5 of the MPU?
If that's the case there is a problem with the wire or connections. Those points are the same. Check J3-14,15 on the sol driver board. I would reflow those connections.

Just repinned (again!) 14 and 15 number pins on J3 on SDB. Nothing changed.

I'm stumped.

Also, where does the 5V enter the MPU? Which connector and pin number?

#18 6 years ago

The wire you are referring to, pin 15 on J3 on SDB, Looks like it was possibly replaced at one point because it is not "white green" as it should be. (Pic below).

Also this wire connects to the MPU at J4 pin 17 and looking at the molex connector I saw this greenish liquid?? Not sure what that is but I cleaned it off. The wires are definitely seated well. I don't know...

Not green white, more like solid green.
IMG_4854 (resized).PNGIMG_4854 (resized).PNG

Mystery goo
IMG_4861 (resized).PNGIMG_4861 (resized).PNG

#19 6 years ago

Are you repinning the female connectors on the cables, or just the header pins on the boards? (Cable female connectors are more often the problem)

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Are you repinning the female connectors on the cables, or just the header pins on the boards? (Cable female connectors are more often the problem)

Just the female pins. I have not replaced any headers because the board boots well in a different game.

#21 6 years ago

Bump for the Saturday crew. Still stumped as to what would cause a drop in 5V on the MPU after flash number 3. Anyone know? All boards are good, all connections repinned. A bad wire? Is that even a thing? Can someone point me to a specific wire?

#22 6 years ago

Did you change your 12v capacitor on the power driver board? Mind if we see a picture of it with the wiring connected?

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Did you change your 12v capacitor on the power driver board? Mind if we see a picture of it with the wiring connected?

Thanks for chimming in pinballmaniac! I have not done that, however I put the power driver in a different game and it booted perfectly. Additionally I took another known working power driver and put it in this game, Embryon and I got the same results.

Wouldn't logic say, if it's not the boards, it HAS to be the wires/connectors?? The boards are all tested and good. The connectors have been repinned, and I double checked wiring in the manual and all is correct. That's why I asked the (probably noob) question of "could it be a wire itself?" Ugh this is frustrating.

Any guidance appreciated!

#24 6 years ago

I am getting 5v both at pin 15 at J3 on the SDB, and at pin17 at J4 on the MPU.

So why then does the MPU lose the 5v?

Anyone?

#25 6 years ago

I am getting 5V at TP1 Of the MPU, it is labeled "+5V in".

But I am only getting 0.8 on TP4, it is labeled "+5V".

IMG_4862 (resized).JPGIMG_4862 (resized).JPG

#26 6 years ago

Thoughts?

#27 6 years ago

It's right there in your picture. See the yellow thing between TP1 and TP4? It's marked as F1 on the PCB and the schematic says it's a 1.10 amp fuse. Something on the board is shorting 5V (VCC) and causing the fuse to trip.

Alltek_F1-Fuse.jpgAlltek_F1-Fuse.jpg

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's right there in your picture. See the yellow thing between TP1 and TP4? It's marked as F1 on the PCB and the schematic says it's a 1.10 amp fuse. Something on the board is shorting 5V (VCC) and causing the fuse to trip.

Yes I see it, thanks for chimming in!

Ok so that yellow thing is shorting. Any idea what would cause that? Like I said, the MPU itself worked great in another game, so I assume it's not actually the yellow thing.

#29 6 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Ok so that yellow thing is shorting.

Not quite, something downstream is shorting causing that fuse to temporarily go open.
I haven't read your whole thread, but if you disconnect J1, J2 and J3 from the MPU board (only have J4 connected) does it still bomb out after the 3rd LED flash?

#30 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Not quite, something downstream is shorting causing that fuse to temporarily go open.
I haven't read your whole thread, but if you disconnect J1, J2 and J3 from the MPU board (only have J4 connected) does it still bomb out at the 4th LED flash?

Thanks for your help so far Quench!

Ok when I did this, the game actually fully booted! I feel like this is progress?

What does that tell you, or what should I do next? Thanks!!

#31 6 years ago

Ok, so plug one MPU connector back in at a time (obviously reconnect only when the machine is off) until it starts failing again. Just need to isolate which connector/subsystem is causing the issue.

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Ok, so plug one MPU connector back in at a time (obviously reconnect only when the machine is off) until it starts failing again. Just need to isolate which connector/subsystem is causing the issue.

Ok I unplugged only J1, and left J2 J3 and J4 connected and it booted up. So the issue must be at J1. Correct? Question is what is the issue. I've double checked wiring and it appears correct also have repinned that connection.

#33 6 years ago

Can you confirm J1 is the issue by plugging it in and disconnecting J2 and J3?

#34 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you confirm J1 is the issue by plugging it in and disconnecting J2 and J3?

Ok I just did this. I only have J1 and J4 connected, and it will not boot. Crashes after 3rd flash.

#35 6 years ago

Connector J1 at the MPU board goes to the Lamp board and the Displays.

So lets isolate them one at a time. Leave J1 connected on the MPU board and disconnect J4 from the Lamp board. Any change?

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Connector J1 at the MPU board goes to the Lamp board and the Displays.
So lets isolate them one at a time. Leave J1 connected on the MPU board and disconnect J4 from the Lamp board. Any change?

Ok, all connectors are plugged in except J4 on the lamp board, and it booted!!

So my issue is at J4 on the lamp board?

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

So my issue is at J4 on the lamp board?

Yep, something on the lamp board is shorting one or more data signals which originate from the PIA chip at U6 on the Alltek MPU board. This is causing the PIA chip to fail the power on test and why you're only getting 3 LED flashes.

Any chance you can post a clear picture of the lamp board?

#38 6 years ago

Quench, you are awesome!!!

Found the issue and fixed it. J4 on the lamp board had a broken solder joint on pin 16 (pic attached). Quick touch of solder and boom everything works now!! So pumped!

I would've never thought the lamp board was involved. I've learned something.

Also, this isn't the first time Quench has fixed a machine of mine. Is it possible to donate to pinside in another's name?

Thanks everyone, and especially Quench!!

IMG_4869 (resized).PNGIMG_4869 (resized).PNG

#39 6 years ago

If you're referring to that second bottom pin on the J4 connector, it's ground but the board also gets ground on J4 from pins 1 and 11. Not what I expected (open circuit) on this pin causing the issue.

Anyway very glad you got it going!

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