(Topic ID: 211210)

Bally EM Head Removal

By djsolzs

6 years ago


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    #1 6 years ago

    Hi - pickup up a 1975 Bally knockout tomorrow and was wondering if anyone could help me understand how to remove the head? Ive never moved an EM before. 4 bolts on the inside and uplug connectors?

    any help would be appreciated so I get be prepared for the pickup. Thanks

    #2 6 years ago
    Quoted from djsolzs:

    Hi - pickup up a 1975 Bally knockout tomorrow and was wondering if anyone could help me understand how to remove the head? Ive never moved an EM before. 4 bolts on the inside and uplug connectors?
    any help would be appreciated so I get be prepared for the pickup. Thanks

    Yep. Take off back door, unplug connectors, remove bolts.

    #3 6 years ago

    Yes - you are correct. Remove the Jones plugs first, then the four bolts. Push the wires into the body of the machine. Its best to use two people to carry the head.

    #5 6 years ago

    Thanks all - Ive not dealt with a machine with a back door on the backbox. I assume this is opened in the back by a key? If no key available anything to watch out for if drilling it out? Ive moved several Gottlieb System 1's with lock on side but the door swings out toward the playfield.

    Bad idea to use a dolly to move the backbox? It will unfortunately only be me on the pickup

    #6 6 years ago

    Nothing to worry about drilling out the lock. Dolly is fine for moving the Head.

    #7 6 years ago

    One last question - remove backglass? or ok to transport with it in the back box?>

    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from djsolzs:

    One last question - remove backglass? or ok to transport with it in the back box?>

    Probably going to depend on what you're comfortable with. I always leave them in, reasoning that the head is a more sturdy holder than any way I can hold it, but I know many who take them out and wrap them in blankets or something.

    #9 6 years ago

    Cool thanks guys I hope I have the right tools when Im there sounds pretty straight forward.

    #10 6 years ago

    I now only transport the heads in the upright position. I once laid one on it's back and the vibration rubbed paint off the BG where it contacted the backboard.

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from aahgo:

    I now only transport the heads in the upright position. I once laid one on it's back and the vibration rubbed paint off the BG where it contacted the backboard.

    What game was this? Usually it looks to me like the backglass shouldn't be touching the backboard, there should be a gap between them.

    #12 6 years ago

    I honestly don't remember which game (it was probably 15 years ago). The problem is that parts loosen over time and shift around allowing contact. There's a reason that they put the protector pads on the backboard. Unfortunately, the pads degrade over time and can cause damage themselves. You could probably transport them this way if you carefully wedged some cardboard to keep the BG from shifting/vibrating, I just prefer to transport them upright.

    #13 6 years ago
    Quoted from aahgo:

    I honestly don't remember which game (it was probably 15 years ago). The problem is that parts loosen over time and shift around allowing contact. There's a reason that they put the protector pads on the backboard. Unfortunately, the pads degrade over time and can cause damage themselves. You could probably transport them this way if you carefully wedged some cardboard to keep the BG from shifting/vibrating, I just prefer to transport them upright.

    Yeah, definitely better not to risk it, I agree. I always try to store and transport upright. Just surprised to hear about that

    #14 6 years ago

    Transport Head upright, Backglass in Head.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from djsolzs:

    I hope I have the right tools when Im there

    9/16 socket or wrench
    5/8 socket or wrench
    drill with 1/4" bit or lockpick set (just in case)
    good flashlight
    a couple screwdrivers, flat blade and phillips, probably not needed but doesn't hurt

    #16 6 years ago

    You didn't tell us where you're located, but be aware temperature extremes can cause the backglass to flake. Minimize temperature swings - don't take the head from a 70 degree room and put it outside in 20 degrees for awhile.

    -1
    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    don't take the head from a 70 degree room and put it outside in 20 degrees for awhile.

    Very true, and although 70s Bally glasses hold up well, wrapping a blanket around the head will
    allow it to slowly adapt to temperature changes. It beats driving home with the heat off, which
    I also have done..

    #18 6 years ago

    Wow this is so much more than what I expected to get from this thread - great stuff thanks a ton. Its coming out of a basement and through 50 ish degree Ohio weather to the car. 25 min drive home

    #19 6 years ago

    You should be fine - and like Mopar said, if you wrap a blanket around it, temp swing will be minimized, plus it will act like packing material to protect it. BTW I have a Knockout if you have any questions, or just start a new thread. Good Luck

    #20 6 years ago

    Bring a 1" drywall screw to hold the back door to the head if it turns out you need to drill the lock. Or another lock with key.

    #21 6 years ago

    Good call on the drywall screw. I posted this to make sure I had everything covered I feel like i do now.

    Couple weeks ago I went to grab a DE machine and had everything but that damn Allen wrench. Almost lost the deal cause I couldn't take it that day.

    #22 6 years ago

    Successful grab! Thanks

    Haven't turned it on yet need to figure out what to look for on these EMs before turning on.

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    #23 6 years ago

    Not much to look for, just plug it in and as long as nothing locks on you're safe to start fixing things. If it does lock on, turn it off and disconnect that coil, etc. They're much 'tougher' than SS games so you don't need to be as careful with an unknown machine

    #24 6 years ago

    Half the time, or more, a screwdriver works on backbox locks. Try before drilling.

    #25 6 years ago

    Ok check coils if locked. What about cleaning the Jones plug?

    I had thought about just manually moving any moving parts so make sure they aren't restricted. Thanks for help.

    I have keys for back

    #26 6 years ago

    Do a search for starting an EM pin. There's been lots of discussion about what to do about a machine that you're not sure is working. Your machine looks pretty good - wipe everything down, install a new ball, and read about EMs. If you don't have that much patience to read, plug her in, and listen. If you hear lots of buzzing, something is stuck on. Track it down, and power off quickly.

    If the game tries to start, but the motor keeps running, look at your score reels. Are they all at zero? If not, the ones not at zero need rebuilt.

    These EMs are lots of fun - report back what you find.

    -1
    #28 6 years ago
    Quoted from djsolzs:

    What about cleaning the Jones plug?

    Can't hurt. Bally plugs aren't very good

    #29 6 years ago

    Thanks was just looking for general direction I know plenty of info out there. Ill report back.

    #30 6 years ago

    Until you get a lot more experience, don't clean or adjust anything that doesn't need it.

    #31 6 years ago

    Yeah sounds like good advice I have experience with newer pins but ZERO on EMs

    Quoted from HowardR:

    Until you get a lot more experience, don't clean or adjust anything that doesn't need it.

    #32 6 years ago

    I would check that all the fuses are the correct rating before turning it on (and that there aren't any "creative" fuses likes screws or nails).

    And the first thing I would tackle is replacing the crappy Bally fuse holders (if present). http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#fuses

    #33 6 years ago
    Quoted from djsolzs:

    One last question - remove backglass? or ok to transport with it in the back box?>

    NEVER remove the backglass for relocation.
    Keep the backglass in the backbox.
    Anyone that may recommend this action has not moved hundreds of games in their lifetime and suffered consequences of stupidity.
    This is a common mistake by new owners which results from breakage either during transport or removal itself.
    Sad face when they realize they cannot find a replacement.

    Cover the backglass with a piece of 1/4" oversized plywood and use a cross strap.
    Minimum is a double thick piece of packaging cardboard in the pinch.
    Tape is not recommended due to potential loss of paint on the backbox.
    Then move the backbox separately in the case of EMs.

    Prior to starting repairs, have a FULL paper schematic on hand (not some BS IPAD pdf version) and understand the fundamentals of circuit theory, components, and EM pinball operation. More games have been $#%ED up by making unneeded adjustments than leaving things alone. Use the RIGHT tools. Learn what should and should not be cleaned.

    You can reference my Dixieland - A Restoration Journey thread for more tips.

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