The score motor on this game is mounted almost dead center of the bottom board. To the left is the trip bank. One of the trips is going to be the game over relay. Side note: I love that the 70s Bally games are so comparable to the bingos (similar score motor, similar trip bank). I've always liked working on them for this reason.

The 'game relay' which is shown on this chart is exactly what you're looking at. There are two coils - a 'latch' coil that moves it from the default position and holds it there, and a 'trip' coil, which moves the switches back to the default position.

This is rather difficult to describe, and it may take your looking at the other interlock relays that you have on that game, but when you push one into the 'latch' position, it makes a click. When you push it into the 'trip' or default position, it is like a spring releasing tension.

It appears that that relay pictured is in the 'latch' position.

OK, last post within 30 seconds, I promise: re-reading what Joe said above, is it possible for you to post more of the schematic (including more of the coil list)?

I might've just told you something that is not correct, but examine the labels on your trip bank and see if one matches the Game Over. I am guessing that the Game Over is another interlock and located elsewhere based on other Bally games of the time. But, I've been wrong before!

Actually, I don't need the coil list to confirm since you confirmed for me!

Yes, the game over is a trip relay - there is not a latch relay since it is a trip and not an interlock.

The trip, while it appears that there is no coil, actually contains a coil under each switch bank (of one or two sets of switches mounted on the same plate), which pulls down an armature. The cam that you see is just a little thing that runs once a game and resets all the armatures to the latched position.

Identifying the parts is the first thing to do, then start working on the game logic. Examine the schematic for the coin relay - this is what should be moving once you put in a coin, and it should activate the reset circuitry.

If this is not happening, is the game stuck in tilt? Is Tilt displayed on the backglass? Most Bally games start in tilt mode until the first coin is dropped, and if something is wrong with their Tilt trip or anti-cheat relays, or coin/start relays, they will not start up fully.

Nomenclature is going to differ - the last non-bingo Bally EM I worked on was over a year ago, but the principal is the same.

Having a full copy of the schematic to review would help, but once you've identified everything in the game (and the differences between the schematic and game can be maddening, like the above Game Interlock and Game Re), you'll be able to start fixing it, especially if you are a methodical person.

My other advice is not to do any adjustments until you have determined the effects of doing so.

JoeNewberry, yes, this was incredibly common on the bingos - the trip banks are large and require resetting big stacks of switches quickly. This is typically a vertical orientation on the bingos, and on the flipper games, is just laying flat. After the bingos became popular, Bally saved money by using the same mechanism. It is simple, rarely has a problem, and always resets every relay 100% Gottlieb and Williams games with a coil-driven reset for the trip will sometimes have performance problems over time. I've never had a reset problem on a Bally, actually.

For the score motors, the service jack was only a Williams thing. The score motor in a late Bally EM is almost a replica (in miniature) of the control unit for the bingos, as well - so that's two of the three major units in any bingo.

To the OP, I know you'll get it soon!

Joe, great writeup and I agree wholeheartedly, my general guideline 2 cents:
1) I always work my way back through the circuit from the coil. It helps you approach any problem systematically.
2) Doing so will start you at the game over trip, which is the most likely culprit beyond the delay relay (which is in circuit before the trip coil, so definitely check that first).

Be sure to tighten the switch stack on the trip before making adjustments. Also pay careful attention to how dirty the switch may be. Even if it appears to be making good contact the points could be fouled which will prevent adequate current flow. Especially important on Normally Closed switches.

Test after each adjustment.

Your score motor index runout switch sounds misadjusted. This is usually the first stack closest to the motor, and the bottom switch on it. This would prevent proper indexing of the motor.

Having the motor think it is in the wrong state would cause coining problems as well.

Were it my game, I would begin by fixing that problem when you manually trick it into starting.

If that doesn't work, check your coin switch wiring. Perhaps try unplugging the coin door Jones plug and see if the game still starts and scores appropriately. That would at least narrow it down to the coin door (which is a common problem). The wire bundle gets caught over time in the hinge and a wire breaks inside the bundle. Continuity testing says everything is fine, but when the rubber meets the road, you've got nothing.

Hope that helps!

Yep, that's odd as they only started doing that in the mid 70s. Before that it was just the code.

First digit = solid color
Second digit = tracer or dashed color. Zero indicates no tracer.
Third digit = the number of times that same color/tracer combo used in the schematic.

You'll need to closely inspect that first (bottom) switch. Though it may appear closed, it may require adjustment and/or cleaning. That's my #1 suspect. Note that it also opens the circuit to the credit button.

Sounds likely!

Congrats! Pulling on the wires is a part of checking any switch that we all missed telling you, I think (without re-reading the whole thing).

The top one is common.

You cannot make this game free play by bypassing the coin switch - you can, of course, tape off the wire without reconnecting it - it is grounding in the area beside the switch causing the problem.

To put a machine in free play, investigate that coin circuit again (ignore the coin switches). You'll notice that the credit unit has a zero switch. This has to be closed to allow for free play. I prefer this kind of modification as it is easily reversible. Take an alligator clip and clip across the solder tabs on that switch - instant free play! Just make sure that it (the clip) is shielded from any other metal parts, and especially any other switch tabs. I've worked on a bunch of EMs that have had weird or over-complicated coin door hacks. The alligator clip can be easily removed if desired!

Smallskid is right, you can just cut away until you can solder in. Have had to do that in the past temporarily.

Bypassing this switch, if you didn't want to do that repair, would mean taking the NC and tying it to the common. Don't do that if you can avoid it though.