Right off the bat I can tell you that the Game Over Relay is a Latch/Trip relay, so it's going to be two coils, one that pulls in the relay and latches it, and another one that pulls in to let the latch go and reset the relay to normal. The photos on IPDB show at least two sets of Latch/Trip relays on the motorboard. One is on the front left near the coin door and one is right behind the score motor. If you manually latch and trip the correct one the Game Over light should turn on and off.

Since you have the schematic, you can confirm that you have found the Game Over Relay by checking the wire colors coming into it.

After you've tried manually changing over the Game Over relay, I would go back to the adjustments you tinkered with. Try setting everything back as it was. Make sure the jones plug pins and sockets are clean, that no wires have broken off, etc.

The score motor on this game is mounted almost dead center of the bottom board. To the left is the trip bank. One of the trips is going to be the game over relay. Side note: I love that the 70s Bally games are so comparable to the bingos (similar score motor, similar trip bank). I've always liked working on them for this reason.

The 'game relay' which is shown on this chart is exactly what you're looking at. There are two coils - a 'latch' coil that moves it from the default position and holds it there, and a 'trip' coil, which moves the switches back to the default position.

This is rather difficult to describe, and it may take your looking at the other interlock relays that you have on that game, but when you push one into the 'latch' position, it makes a click. When you push it into the 'trip' or default position, it is like a spring releasing tension.

It appears that that relay pictured is in the 'latch' position.

OK, last post within 30 seconds, I promise: re-reading what Joe said above, is it possible for you to post more of the schematic (including more of the coil list)?

I might've just told you something that is not correct, but examine the labels on your trip bank and see if one matches the Game Over. I am guessing that the Game Over is another interlock and located elsewhere based on other Bally games of the time. But, I've been wrong before!

Hi xsvtoys
maybe You have messed it up - BUT, maybe a broken-off wire has moved to the side as You have pulled a plug nearby. I once had a problem (driving me nuts): On one solder lug of the Extraball-Relay-Coil the wire has broken off - wires are stiff, the wire happened to stay in place (XB working) -> me nudging -> the broken-off wire moved a bit to the side (XB not working) -> me nudging -> it moved back (XB working) -> ->
So whenever You look at a coil or a switch: grab one wire after the other and pull a bit on the wire(s) ...

About Game-Relay (Latch and Trip) and Game-Over-Relay (only (?) Latch): You might have to present us a PDF of "part of schema". I was looking in ipdb and found (best): Bally-1972-Fore -> http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=917 -> schema -> the same situation as "Bon Voyage".

Please have a look at the places you have unplugged "Jones Plugs" -> is a "broken-off" wire nearby ? Have you plugged-in the males into the females "the correct way" ? Old plugs CAN be plugged in with a off-set -> males go in-between the females (what we do not want).

I would like You to follow the "Start-up Procedure": http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/343/Bally_1974_Bon_Voyage_Installation_and_General_Game_Operating_Instructions.pdf (starting on page-2).

Whenever you work on the pin: UNPLUG the Line-Cord, DANGER: 120 VAC (and 50 VAC and 6 VAC) around, You do not want to touch ...
Look for the Credit-Relay and the Coin-Relay and the Reset-Relay. Take a wooden stick (INSULATION) and try "push onto the anchor-plate of these relays" - simulating "the coil gets current and activates the relay (anchor plate) - practice this movement.

Plug-in the Line-Cord and turn-on the pin. I want to go through the manual -> 1D: Front Door Credit Button Switch will energize the Credit-Relay -> -> Coin-Relay.
You are now the "Credit-Buton-Switch" -> with the wooden stick push onto the anchor-plate of the Credit-Relay -> ? What happens ? Please report. Greetings Rolf

Hi xsvtoys
great, you work on PDF to show. Here a lot of "good stuff" -> http://rwatts.cdyn.com/Machines/download_area.html -> down to the third link "Introduction to Bally Flipper Games": http://rwatts.cdyn.com/download/intro%20to%20bally%20flipper%20games.pdf (everything is good) -> page-19 and -20 (of 51) -> Motorized Trip Relay Bank. (I think: Yes (?)) Does your Bon Voyage has such a Motorized Trip Relay Bank ? I learned about +/- 2 weeks ago - I have never seen such a MOTORIZED Relay Bank ("Normal" Relay Banks: I Know).
I had an look in ipdb -> Bally-1972-Fore has such a Motorized Bank - it is a 1-Player game - it is from 1972 (close enough ?) AND IPDB SHOWS A SCHEMA -> Please look (ipdb-schema-"Fore") ->

F-7 (E-7) the Score-Motor and the wiring to switches 5000-Point-Relay / 500-Point-Relay / Special-Relay / Reset-Relay / COIN-RELAY. Some other relays also can start the Score-Motor / keep the Score-Motor running. "BALLY-Fore" would start and keep running its Score-Motor when the Switch on COIN-RELAY is closed - What does YOUR schema shows for "Score-Motor running" ?

On F-9 (E-9) You can see "RESET MOTOR" (I believe Motor for to reset the Trip-Relay-Bank), wiring and the switches Reset-Trip-Relay / COIN-RELAY / a Score-Motor-Switch (?). What does Your schema shows (switches for) "Reset-Motor running" ?

I think, You do not know about the "Lock-Relay" - also about the "Left Flipper Button".

In the evening the operator walked from pin to pin and switched-off the pin (switch underneath the cabinet) -> lights of the pin go off -> immediately afterwards he switched-on that switch (again) - NOT touching another thing -> pin is still turned-off -> the next morning the operator walked from pin to pin and just hit the Left-Flipper-Button -> the Lights go on and the pin is ready for customers to play ...

The Lock-Relay is active (keeps on pulling) from the moment "Lights go on" -> the -> whole -> day -> somebody turns-off the main switch (underneath the cabinet) in the evening. It is nice, Your Lock-Relay starts pulling and keep-on pulling.
WE MUST look for: Coin-Relay should pull, (Start-Relay should pull), Score-Motor should start, Reset-Motor should stop. And for these questions You should look-up in Your schema and/or show us the interesting parts of the schema. Greetings Rolf

Actually, I don't need the coil list to confirm since you confirmed for me!

Yes, the game over is a trip relay - there is not a latch relay since it is a trip and not an interlock.

The trip, while it appears that there is no coil, actually contains a coil under each switch bank (of one or two sets of switches mounted on the same plate), which pulls down an armature. The cam that you see is just a little thing that runs once a game and resets all the armatures to the latched position.

Identifying the parts is the first thing to do, then start working on the game logic. Examine the schematic for the coin relay - this is what should be moving once you put in a coin, and it should activate the reset circuitry.

If this is not happening, is the game stuck in tilt? Is Tilt displayed on the backglass? Most Bally games start in tilt mode until the first coin is dropped, and if something is wrong with their Tilt trip or anti-cheat relays, or coin/start relays, they will not start up fully.

Nomenclature is going to differ - the last non-bingo Bally EM I worked on was over a year ago, but the principal is the same.

Having a full copy of the schematic to review would help, but once you've identified everything in the game (and the differences between the schematic and game can be maddening, like the above Game Interlock and Game Re), you'll be able to start fixing it, especially if you are a methodical person.

My other advice is not to do any adjustments until you have determined the effects of doing so.

Hi xsvtoys
some more questions:

Do you have replays on the Replay-Counter ?

Does Your Score-Motor has a "Score-Motor Service-Jack". In the schema "Bally-Fore" I do not see one, in Wms Fan-Tas-Tic -> http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=820 -> schema -> D-5 (D-5) there is such a service jack - I see one Male (plug) and I see two female (sockets). Look in your pin -> One side of the Score-Motor -> a short wire ending in a male-plug. Is it plugged into ONE female (socket) or are there TWO female (sockets) and You have plugged in the male-plug into the female-socket AND on the solder-lug of this female-socket there is NO WIRE SOLDERED ON ? -> Pull and plug-in into the other female-socket.

Look in schema Bally-Fore -> F-2: A Normally-Closed-Switch on Delay-Relay. Follow the wire -> do You get to Score-Motor ? If that N.C.Switch on Delay-Relay is "faulty-open": The Score-Motor will not run ... Greetings Rolf

I think we'll all be of more help when we get a look at the schematic. Thanks for working on getting a scan.

My apologies for not realizing the Game Over was on the reset bank. I have to say I've never seen a reset bank with a motor before. Is that something common to Bally bingos, Nick, or just all Bally pins? I've worked on Gottlieb and Williams games with banks that reset with one big coil and then change individual relays with latch/trip operation, but not one that worked like a score motor with cams and switch stacks.

JoeNewberry, yes, this was incredibly common on the bingos - the trip banks are large and require resetting big stacks of switches quickly. This is typically a vertical orientation on the bingos, and on the flipper games, is just laying flat. After the bingos became popular, Bally saved money by using the same mechanism. It is simple, rarely has a problem, and always resets every relay 100% Gottlieb and Williams games with a coil-driven reset for the trip will sometimes have performance problems over time. I've never had a reset problem on a Bally, actually.

For the score motors, the service jack was only a Williams thing. The score motor in a late Bally EM is almost a replica (in miniature) of the control unit for the bingos, as well - so that's two of the three major units in any bingo.

To the OP, I know you'll get it soon!

Hi xsvtoys +
my beloved Gottlieb Far Out also has a Score-Motor Service-Jack. I do not own a Bally. Bally pins are very similar to Williams pins - at least the "newer" ones (Score Motor / Player-Unit + Ball-Count-Unit, logic in circuitry ...).
I do not remember where I read this statement: "Carefully checked and counterchecked "switches drawn in the schema" <-> "switches in the pin (reality)". Well, 2 switches were only in the schema - 1 switch was only in the pin."

Maybe a bit confusing -for not to have a (narrow) very, very long drawing (schema): Bally schemas have a U-Turn on the "50 VAC" side of circuitry. At first glance we have the impression (Bottom <-> Top): there are 3 sections.

Again, Delay-Relay: Bally has constructed a funny way for to solve the problem "A relay must start pulling -> pulling for a while -> stop (quit) pulling". Gottlieb uses "Capacitor and Resistor", Williams uses "Capacitor and Resistor and Transistor".
xsvtoys, have You replaced the bulb on the Delay-Relais (455 - a flashing bulb) by a regular 47-bulb ? Is Your Delay-Relay "always pulling" ? (It should not). The Delay-Relay is for a HEAVY TILT (Score Motor not running but "Motor-for-bank-reset" might run).
I would like to test with "Jumper-Cables". You can do it on Your own - or You can show me parts of the schema and then I write about "What to jumper". To work witch Jumper-Wires: You (we) MUST have a schema - and KNOW what You (we) are doing.

Instead of writing it (here) again - Please have a look: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-space-time-extra-ball-functionality -> my post-15 -> print out the PDF -> look near the transformer -> ALWAYS USE POINT-99 !!! NEVER USE POINT-4 !!! (You want to have the fuse (maybe to blow) in Your circuitry.) Want to test Your Coin-Relay ? -> Test "Jumper-Cable-A". Then -B, then -C, then -D ? Greetings Rolf

Those Bally reset banks with the motor and cam are cool to watch, until that plastic cam breaks. Then you're out of business.

The game relay should change states during reset. I think part of your issue starts there.

Have you manually activated the coin switch? I have not consulted schematic but my Bally Night Rider had a similar issue. The coin switch was not working...broken connection....fixed that and it fired right up, but it took awhile to find.

Photos of the schematic will work; a PDF is nice but not a necessity to help you get it going. Mainly I'd want to see the section related to the Credit button->Credit Unit->Game Over Relay circuit that usually gets things started on an EM and a picture of the reset bank on the schematic would be nice. Just so long as we can read the text it'll work.

That you have no score motor activity or any sign of action from putting in coins, manually stepping up the credit unit/setting it on free play, etc., makes me think the problem is something that should be a normally closed switch in that circuit isn't closed. A switch on the Game Over relay stack on the reset bank, a switch on the credit unit, the start button itself (both wires soldered to the start button switch okay, switch clean and making contact?), etc. That getting the reset bank to start up causes it to never actually complete its reset also hints at something not being in the right position, since I'd imagine there are switches on the stacks that act like 0 position switches on a score reel that say they're latched and the reset bank motor doesn't have to keep running on their account.

Is the Game Interlock Relay working okay? I can't quite tell how the switches are configured because I think some of what I'm seeing in the pictures are the shadows of the switches above. What I mean by working okay is that if you latch it and then trip it, do the switches change positions properly? Normally open switches should close, normally closed should open, and make/break switches should switch from one set closed to the other. It kind of looks like one switch might be misadjusted, but it may just be an optical illusion/shadow. From what I've been reading the "Game Interlock Relay" is tied into Game Over, on some Bally EMs at least.

Let me try to clarify what I mean by "working." I mean are the switches on the relay working in a logical way. With the game off, and the relay in the tripped position, so not held in place by the latch, look at the switches on the relay. They should be in pairs of leaves or in groups of three leaves. Each pair should either be touching or not touching. The groups of three should have one set of switch leaves touching and one leaf close by, but not touching. Now, latch the relay. All the switch conditions should flip-flop. The closed switches should be open, the open switches should close, and the groups of three should change so that the middle switch leaf closes with the switch leaf that was previously open and break away from the leaf it had been touching. Trip the relay and they should all go back the way they were before. If you have a switch blade that doesn't touch anything whether the relay is tripped or latched, or one that stays closed in both positions, then that switch is misadjusted. That may not be the case here, like I said I can't tell for sure if I'm just seeing a shadow, but it's a good idea to understand that the switches are generally going to follow this rule. They're either going to be open, closed, or make/break (that's the group of three), and when the relay is activated they'll change to the opposite condition they start in. If they're not doing one of those three things, something isn't right about their adjustment.

Anyway, thanks for the schematic. In regards to your question, only the Gottlieb rights holders insist on flexing their copyright muscle. Personally, I think sharing documentation is only good for the community, even the parts sellers, as people tend to get games working and sink more substantial money into them when they have a manual and schematics as a sort of "freebie" enticement into the habit of pin collecting. That's just my opinion, of course. You paid for it and scanned it, so I'd say it's up to you to decide what you do with it.

I need to get to bed, but I'll have a look over the schematic in the morning and try to post back. I imagine Nick and Rolf will have their take on things, too. We'll get it going soon enough.

Alright, maybe I'll go ahead and have a look. First, the Delay Relay should not be pulled in at start-up. I know you and Rolf were discussing it coming on when there was a slam tilt. That relay should be off in any other situation except a slam tilt or a kick off. There is a normally closed switch on it that basically provides all the grounding for all the sections of the coin up and start process, so if the delay is on none of it works. I think you've troubleshot that pretty well and it's probably not the issue, but just to be sure look at the Delay Relay and check the switch with the black-red and black wires coming to it. It should be closed when the relay is off and open when it's energized and pulled in (on).

So besides the Delay Relay, the chain of logic to getting things going seems to be this:

A make break switch at 1F on the score motor should be closed (probably is, I wouldn't tinker with the score motor until you absolutely have to), there is a normally closed switch on the Reset Relay that should be closed (has a black-white wire to it), the credit (start) button needs to be pressed, the Credit Unit Zero switch, which is open when there are no credits on the reel, should be closed, and finally either the Game Over Trip (the one on the Reset Bank?) or the Game Relay (Game Interlock Relay?) need to be closed. If all those things are closed it creates a path to the Credit Relay, which will then hold itself on. The Credit Relay activates the Coin Relay, which activates the Reset Relay, which essentially gets the game going.

What's weird is that it sounds like you weren't anywhere near any of these things when the problem started. Weren't you adjusting settings in the backbox? I'd triple check the credit unit, since that's the only thing that would have been close by that's relevant. Tug the wires, look for bad solder joints, make sure the free play switches you adjusted are the Credit Unit Zero switches (grey-yellow and white-orange wires to that set). Be absolutely sure the credit unit is really telling the game that it has credits on it. Is the credit light on, on the bottom left side of the apron?

It also looks like the Coin Relay may be holding the Reset Motor on. The Coin Relay holds itself on through a switch on its own stack and a normally open switch on the Game Relay (whichever one that is, the one on the Reset Bank or the interlock?). So if the Game Relay doesn't drop out, the Coin Relay stays energized and keeps running the Reset Motor forever.

Joe, great writeup and I agree wholeheartedly, my general guideline 2 cents:
1) I always work my way back through the circuit from the coil. It helps you approach any problem systematically.
2) Doing so will start you at the game over trip, which is the most likely culprit beyond the delay relay (which is in circuit before the trip coil, so definitely check that first).

Be sure to tighten the switch stack on the trip before making adjustments. Also pay careful attention to how dirty the switch may be. Even if it appears to be making good contact the points could be fouled which will prevent adequate current flow. Especially important on Normally Closed switches.

Test after each adjustment.

Definitely good advice to start from the coil and work back. Also, cleaning the switches and tightening the switch stacks is a definite must. Just because it looks like it's closed doesn't mean it actually is, either. I worked on a Williams Gridiron for two hours once, tracing everything from the backbox to score motor, only to find my problem was a single backbox switch that was somehow gapped by a micron and not really closed. If you want to be absolutely sure, use a multimeter and test for continuity between the solder lugs. That's how I found that one.

Hi xsvtoys +
I use jumper-cables for the problem: XYZ-Relay should pull.
Another common problem is: ABC-Relay (Score-Motor / Motor of "Motorized-Relay-Bank" etc.) should NOT pull / run. Here I like to work with stripes of paper - I sneak-in a stripe of paper in-between the contacts of a switch -> "THIS ONE is securely open". I sneak-in between the "Contact-Points" (not just somewhere between the blades). I also have a look at the solder points of the blades. Has there a "piece of blank wire" fallen in-between ? Has some preowner have let fallen a screw-driver into the machine -> and the blades are bent and make "faulty-contact" ? Here: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#fuses -> scroll down to the third picture: a bent blade making a short on a lamp-socket.
Is there a solder splash ? -> http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#misc -> First picture ...

While waiting for the Jumper-Gator-Clips to come: Want to have a look at the problem "Motor of Reset-Bank keeps-on running" ? Your JPG-2: Transformer -> fuse -> Thick wire BLACK -> RESET-MOTOR -> Wire "G-B Green-Black (?)" -> Switch-on-Special-Relay and Switch on "B-E-Trip-Relay" OR Switch-on-Coin-Relay OR "Switch (on) Index Reset Motor". This switch is a "Self-Hold-Circuitry-Switch" (Once started -> the Motor shall complete a "Full-Turn" and at the end of its turn mechanically open that switch again).

At the time of "Start of a game": We do NOT need the Special-Relay -> lets eliminate the possible fault "Switch-on-Special-Relay--B-E-Trip-Relay is faulty-closed" -> sneak-in a stripe of paper in the "correct" switch on Special-Relay or (quick and dirty) sneak-in stripes of paper - into ALL switches on Special-Relay. Start a game -> Motor ?

If the motor is (still) running: LET THESE STRIPES OF PAPER in the switch(es) - maybe there are TWO faults in the circuitry -> have a look at the Coin-Relay and the Switch-on-Coin-Relay -> sneak-in stripe(s) of paper -> Start a game -> Motor ?

At the very-last: Have a look at the "Index-Wheel of Reset-Motor" - I doubt, this switch is bent "Faulty-always-closed (why should it ?). Please report.

Great, You made these JPGs. Greeting Rolf

Hey OP, if you were to disclose your general location you might get some portable help.

Hi xsvtoys
we are / I am waiting to read more about your "Bon Voyage" (I like Spinning Targets / Messenger Balls / Kick-Out-Eject-Holes).

Please write a NEW TOPIC (and mark it as "solved"), title and text:
Bally 1974 Bon Voyage schema schematic
Hi there - I made a PDF of Bon Voyage schema / schematic. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-em-bon-voyage-wont-start (my post-27). Greetings, xsvtoys

When You write this new topic: When (in the future) some owner of "Bon Voyage" is looking for a schema (searching in pinside.com) - he will find the schema ...

Did You always "throw-in" Coins - or have You manually switched the "Second Coin Chute Switch" / "Third Coin Chute Switch" ? AND accidentally bent a switch ?
Look in the schema "Credit-Relay -> -> -> thick wire YELLOW (returning to the transformer). See the "Second Coin Chute Switch" / "Third Coin Chute Switch" ? If one or both is/are bent and "faulty-open" then there is no "closed circuitry" for the Credit-Relay-Coil.
I would be temptet to set a Jumper-Cable "Score-Motor-1F" <-> Transformer-LUG-YELLOW (to jumper these Coin-Chute-Switches).

To "clip-on" a Jumper-Cable: I unplug / pull-out the Line-Cord (120 VAC). I clip-on "where it is harder to get at" - here: Score-Motor-1F - carefully lead the Jumper-Cable into the open (the cable shall not hinder functionality of relays etc.). Then I plug-in the Line-Cord (120 VAC), turn on and start a game and then I tip the open end of the Jumper-Cable onto Transformer-LUG-YELLOW. Greetings Rolf

Your score motor index runout switch sounds misadjusted. This is usually the first stack closest to the motor, and the bottom switch on it. This would prevent proper indexing of the motor.

Having the motor think it is in the wrong state would cause coining problems as well.

Were it my game, I would begin by fixing that problem when you manually trick it into starting.

If that doesn't work, check your coin switch wiring. Perhaps try unplugging the coin door Jones plug and see if the game still starts and scores appropriately. That would at least narrow it down to the coin door (which is a common problem). The wire bundle gets caught over time in the hinge and a wire breaks inside the bundle. Continuity testing says everything is fine, but when the rubber meets the road, you've got nothing.

Hope that helps!

Hi xsvtoys
I like: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/emTips.html and http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/ -> EM Games: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair
AND http://www.pinrepair.com/ -> 1930s to 1978 EM: http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm (EVERYTHING).
Please read about "beeing romantic" here - (2c.): http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#coindoor -> after the third picture ...

How do You "Check Continuity" ? To get a secure (100%) correct result You MUST unsolder one side of "I want to test this wire / switch / connection" ! There are many wires in the pin - You might get a "faulty" result (there is connection) - but You actually have a"Connection around in the pin" giving You this faulty result.

Pull the Line-Cord (NO 110VAC available) ! Take out the 10-Ampere-Fuse (schema: D-2 / E-2), check for continuity in between the socket-holders (of the fuse) -> Your result ? Turn Your meter to "Check Resistance (Ohms)" and measure again (in between the sockets) -> Your result ?
Maybe your meter has a "marginal-value" built-in (some Ohms) - below that marginal-value the Continuity-Checker tells You: Continuity. And above that marginal-value it tells you: NO Continuity (?)

Look in your schema: Socket-of-10-Amp-Fuse -> wire -> through the Normally-Closed-Switch-on-Delay-Relay -> to and through the "Coin-Lockout-Coil" -> wire -> Closed-Switch-1C-on-Score-Motor -> thick wire YELLOW -> through the "windings of transformer" -> Socket-of-Fuse (the other socket). When measuring Ohms: You should get a result (maybe 50 Ohms / maybe 100 Ohms ?) You should not get the result 10000000000000 Ohms. So my question: Is the "marginal-value" in Your meter set for to check continuity in pinball-machines ?

nickrooster has written something very important: "Score-Motor Index-Runout-Switch". xsvtoys, in Your post-1 You wrote about "changing setting plugs" - I did my "thinking" assuming the Score-Motor is 100%-well-running - a pin with "Score-Motor NOT stopped in propper-position (at run-Out)" can cause all kind of "crazy behavior" ...

Of course I did not invent "Testing with Jumper-Cables" - I like that kind of testing. For to test with Jumper-Cables one NEEDS a schema - I very much like "having a schema" ... Greetings Rolf

Hi xsvtoys
here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/using-schematics-and-8-foot-jumper-wires in my post-10 I show a JPG. For to "Check continuity" I use my manipulated "Green Flashlight" - two wires coming out - if I touch the bare ends: The Flashlight lights up (it does not lights-up when doing the Test "Fuse-Holder-sockets" (to much resistance in the "connection all the way around" for the bulb to light-up)). Some times I am rude to a pin - see text "U", "V", "W", "X"" - on a place "hard to get at": Most of the work I can do with ONE hand. After I have tested / repaired the pin: I connect "Male" and "Female" of these "Automotive Departement Car-Electric plugs" and let them in the pin for future use. Greetings Rolf

Hi xsvtoys
Your schema (post-27) -> page-4 -> A26 and B26: Wire-Color-Code 93-2 = Gray-Yellow. 57-8 = White-Orange. 27-2 = Blue-Orange. 85-5 = Black-White. Greetings Rolf

Yep, that's odd as they only started doing that in the mid 70s. Before that it was just the code.

First digit = solid color
Second digit = tracer or dashed color. Zero indicates no tracer.
Third digit = the number of times that same color/tracer combo used in the schematic.

As Rolf stated those numbers are the code for the wire color. The code is listed on your schematic. Report back if this is unclear.

Again check those coin chutes. On my Bally Night Rider I had the same or very similar issues as you are having. Your score motor MIGHT be an issue, but I put it lower on the "likely" list. Remember...this was a working game! You were changing a few settings with the plugs, and while it is possible the score motor became maladjusted, it is not particularly likely. However...the coin chute switches are much more likely. It is right in the area you were working and it would be likely to be broken or damaged with an accidental snag or bump. I suspect your problem is one of a bad/broken connection.

The coin chutes are in the start up circuit sequence. If they are open the game will not start ...even with credits on the credit reel!

Turn the game on and put the score motor in the "home" position so you know all switch position are correct. Jump the start button closed with an alligator clip. Put a few credits on the credit reel. If you happen to fix the problem you will now hear and see the game fire up.

Visually look at the coin switch activating "wire" that activates/closes the microswitch. (not sure of the official name.....the one that the coin trips when it falls through the slot) . Does it operate smoothly or is it mangled and not operating well?

Pull pack the little clear insulation and visually inspect all the solder joints on the coin chute switches. Are all the connections good? Wiggle them or flex them gently to check for a bad connection.

Report back with your findings.

Edit--As Rolf stated be wary of continuity readings of wires in an EM. There are many parallel circuits that may give you false reading. Jumper wires are often much more useful as you can jump the power from point to point and thus determine by process of elimination where the fault is.

Hi xsvtoys
remarks on "Reading schematics": Below the "Plug Reference Table" see the text "Wires enclosed in ... Number-16 gauge ..." ? Nice to know (No-16-gauge) ?

On the schema "Bon Voyage" I DID NOT FIND THIS (following) TEXT (on Wms / Gtb schema it is): "The schema is drawn after a game has started for Player-1, the reset (Score-Wheels etc.) is done, the first ball lays in the "Launching Lane (ready for entering the playfield)" AND THE LINE-CORD IS PULLED !
That means: The Relays in the Relay-Bank are reset. Interlock-Relays are in a stable state. "Relays with a Self-Hold-Switch-for-to-stay-pulled" loose current (Line-Cord pulled) and return to "beeing in state INACTIVE". I tell You no lie -> look schema-C10 -> the "Self-Hold-Switch on Lock-Relay" is drawn OPEN. (Also schema-A2: the switches on Lock-Relay). Also schema-A4: The Switch on the Game-Over-Relay is in the state: "Game-Over-Light is off".
Sometimes I do see a switch drawn in the schema and I am a bit confused: "Drawn open" - should it be closed ??? -> I look in the pin and push onto the anchor-plate of that relay and watch the switch: When the switch wants to open: Does it securely open ? And vice versa. INTERLOCK-Relays are hard to understand.

A schema is NOT an "exploded view" - it is abstract / idealized / does not show "reality in the pin". It shows "a connection is in-between HERE and THERE", but the way it is connected in the pin might be a bit different.
Example Transformer -> 10-amp-fuse -> through switch-on-delay-relay -> wire "Black-Red" and then a short "stub to Lug-on-coil-of-2-Coin-Unit-step-Up-Solenoid". The wire "Black-Red" goes further -> a short "stub to Lug-on-coil-of-Coin-Relay". The wire "Black-Red" goes further -> "...2nd-Coin-Chute-Relay" -> "...3rd-Coin-Chute-Relay" -> > ->

In reality (in the pin): On a given lug: TWO wires "Black-Red" are soldered-on ( one coming to the lug and the other one goes further to the next Coil-on-relay ...
In reality MAYBE 2nd-Coin-Chute-Relay and 3rd-Coin-Chute-Relay and 2-Coin-Unit are mounted close together and MAYBE there is a wire "Black-Red" from "Switch-on-Delay-Relay" to the 3rd-Coin-Chute-Relay and from that lug there is a BLANK wire to the lug-on-Coil-of-2nd-Coin-Chute-Relay and the BLANK wire runs to (and ends there) "Step-Up-Coil-on-2-Coin-Unit".

You must "think into the schema": "Where in the Logic of game-play is the pin right now" ? For example: The schema is drawn "Ball-1 is ready to be launched" - YOU are studying "Ball-2 is in play and the ball makes 500 points and therefore the Score-Motor is running and "Switch-XYZ-on-Score-Motor-3 must be (tempory) closed" ... Greetings Rolf

You'll need to closely inspect that first (bottom) switch. Though it may appear closed, it may require adjustment and/or cleaning. That's my #1 suspect. Note that it also opens the circuit to the credit button.

Sounds likely!

Hi xsvtoys
a switch on a relay or on the Score-Motor I sometimes jumper using a Screw-Driver ( I hold the plastic handle).
The JPG in Your post-33 -> below the "Red 4" -> the Make-and-Break-Switch on the Score-Motor (drawn as a Brake-and-Make-Switch): Manually turn the Score-Motor into "Home-Position". Look at Your Pictures (post-39): Bottom -> Up, I see SCM-1A, SCM-1B, SCM-1C, SCM-1D, SCM-1E and on top SCM-1F. Carefully clean / inspect these 3 blades. In Home-Position it should be: Top-Blade is free (no contact) AND 2nd and 3rd (top -> down) blades should have contact. CAREFULLY hold the Screw-Driver onto that switch - so 2nd and 3rd blade are connected (NO OTHER CONNECTION). Push the Replay-Button -> does the Credit-Relay start pulling - does the Score-Motor start running ? Immediately take away the Screw-Driver. Greetings Rolf

Congrats! Pulling on the wires is a part of checking any switch that we all missed telling you, I think (without re-reading the whole thing).

The top one is common.

You cannot make this game free play by bypassing the coin switch - you can, of course, tape off the wire without reconnecting it - it is grounding in the area beside the switch causing the problem.

To put a machine in free play, investigate that coin circuit again (ignore the coin switches). You'll notice that the credit unit has a zero switch. This has to be closed to allow for free play. I prefer this kind of modification as it is easily reversible. Take an alligator clip and clip across the solder tabs on that switch - instant free play! Just make sure that it (the clip) is shielded from any other metal parts, and especially any other switch tabs. I've worked on a bunch of EMs that have had weird or over-complicated coin door hacks. The alligator clip can be easily removed if desired!

)) Glad you got it running! Great feeling isn't it. This is what I was trying you to have you look at in posts 18 and 37 as it is the exact problem I had! As you found these bad connections can be very difficult or impossible to see. Jumping the start button, putting credits on the credit wheel and wiggling a suspected connection helps to find them as the game will start immediately. (assuming no other issues..)

As far as the switch...this is the ground wire. You can shave a little of the plastic casing away with a utility knife or dremel in order to get enough to solder to. It does need to be connected for the game to operate. Solder it up and put the screws back in and you are done. I doubt there is an issue with the score motor.

As far as free play go back to the credit wheel and close the credit switch with an alligator clip or bend it closed. It is a NO switch. I can get you a photo if needed or there is one on pinrepair.com as well. No need to bypass this particular switch.

Again I know the feeling of relief and exicetiment when a problem is solved....congrats!

Maybe I am blocked

Smallskid is right, you can just cut away until you can solder in. Have had to do that in the past temporarily.

Bypassing this switch, if you didn't want to do that repair, would mean taking the NC and tying it to the common. Don't do that if you can avoid it though.