(Topic ID: 61220)

Bally Eight Ball slingshot fires continuously

By cubesmith

10 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by cubesmith
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leafswitch3.jpg
#1 10 years ago

Hello,

I recently got my first pin, a Bally Eight Ball. I've already sorted out 90% of my issues with the help of the info on this site, but I can't seem to find an answer to this problem.

Anyway, here's the problem. All solenoids fire fine during the self test. During gameplay everything works except the left sling. If it is activated it continues to fire until it blows the playfield fuse.

The coil seems good, reading 11 ohms across the lugs, so I don't think thats the problem. I'm assuming the problem must be on the solenoid board but I'm not sure where to start.

Thanks a lot.

#2 10 years ago

Are you sure its not just the switch being adjusted too close together? Spread the leaves of it a little farther apart (with game off). The sling fires when the ball hits the rubber pressing them together, I bet yours are just too close and sensitive. Use a small pair of pliers down by the base to spread the trouble one apart a little further, turn game back on, test it out, still doing it, turn game off and spread it out again. The fact that it works in test mode fine makes sense because the test is telling it to fire not the actual ball hitting it. See pic for reference of what the switch looks like.

leafswitch3.jpgleafswitch3.jpg

#3 10 years ago

And next time you order something at pinball life pick one of these leaf switch adjustment tools up, they are very handy. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

#4 10 years ago

Thanks for the quick reply. I was out getting more fuses. I couldn't find any slo-blo so tried a regular 1A and it pops on the first playfield solenoid test fire.

I looked at the switches and they only have continuity for a split second from a rubber bounce. I was going to fire it from the bottom of the switch to see if that makes a difference. I'm getting some slo blo fuses tomorrow so I'll be able to continue then.

thanks
Chris

#5 10 years ago

Before you fool with more fuses...

1) Put a piece of light cardboard (a little piece of a food carton for example) in between the contacts for the switch. Does the problem go away?

2) Make sure that the wires on the underside of the switch are not touching (ie: the little blades that the wires are soldered to can get bent)

#6 10 years ago

Turns out you were right. It was the leaf switches on that sling.

I now have a fully functional, minus one chime coil, eight ball!

Thanks for the help.
Chris

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from cubesmith:

Turns out you were right. It was the leaf switches on that sling.

I now have a fully functional, minus one chime coil, eight ball!

Thanks for the help.
Chris

Well done!

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from cubesmith:

Turns out you were right. It was the leaf switches on that sling.
I now have a fully functional, minus one chime coil, eight ball!
Thanks for the help.
Chris

If that chime coil is melted, you better find out why. Chances are there is a bad transistor in the driver board. It sucks to replace a coil just to have it melt again.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

And next time you order something at pinball life pick one of these leaf switch adjustment tools up, they are very handy. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

I am still unsure how to use that leaf adjustment tool. Do you twist it?

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

I am still unsure how to use that leaf adjustment tool. Do you twist it?

Its just easier than using pliers, mostly twisting. the little slot on the end fits so nicely down at the bottom of the leaf switch that only a little turn or twist will open it more or close it. Plus because of its size and angles on either end its useful for switches in tight spots.

1 week later
#12 10 years ago
Quoted from PinballShawn:

If that chime coil is melted, you better find out why. Chances are there is a bad transistor in the driver board. It sucks to replace a coil just to have it melt again.

Thanks for this tip! I checked my transistors on the driver board and indeed found Q7 to be blown. I replaced it and it's coresponding resistor and diode, as well as a new coil, and all is working!

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