Look, there it is

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Looks like you need a lot of other parts too judging by that corrosion

great plains electronics is the best place for the kits, but their kits are out of stock right now. You can usually still find all the items though if you just search for them on the site going by the list in the out of stock kit.

Big Daddy also sells them, but they're a bit more expensive and have a minimum order http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-mpu

Ok, first off it's an 82 ohm 1 watt resistor. Did you try Google?

Second, don't bother fixing the MPU. The brown Palmer sockets were defective from day 1. There are numerous replacements out there at a reasonable price.

Third, whats going on with the battery? It's cut off on the picture. Has it been removed and have you inspected for acid damage?

If you are determined to restore this original board there are repair services that will replace the brown sockets and install a lithium or nvram. Personally I would can the board and buy a new one .

Good luck.

Please do NOT can the board! It has little to no alkaline battery damage. The socketed chips are getting harder to find. The replacement boards are a good and easy solution, and if you get one, sell this board cheap to someone who will be happy to bring it back to life.

you can replace any sockets that are problematic. Parts are cheap.

1. The resistor, R11 often looks the way yours does. Measure it with an ohm meter before replacing as it likely is just fine.

2. Start by measuring all of the test point voltages on the rectifier board for correct values. Examine the connectors looking for burned pins.
This unit has to be functional and the connectors making proper contact before you can proceed.

3. Then measure the test points on the solenoid driver board. Test point 1 is the five volts which needs to be five volts. How does the J1 connector look -- any corrosive indicators on the connector pins? The 5V regulator capacitor needs to be changed if it is currently original.
There are other improvements that should be made to this board, such as tying test point 1 to test point 3, added a jumper on the negative side of the 5V reg cap to board ground, plus other changes to improve the function of the board.

Read up this stuff on Pinwiki for your era Bally machine.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/

There is a systematic approach to bringing these SS Bally machines back to life again. Starting with the power supply. You didn't mention that you tested all of the power unit voltages. It isn't good technique to only use visual clues to resolving electronic problems. What are the test point voltages on the rectifier board? Use the the bottom lead of the right side 600 ohm sand resistor to provide ground for your meter.

Make sure all the fuses and test point voltages match the schematic values. Also, note TP4 is AC volts. The schematics for your specific machine are available on:

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=760

All the brown sockets in use need to be replaced. You will need a professional vaccuume desolder station to properly remove them.
After you replace the brown sockets you will need to rebuild the valid power detector section and who knows what else.
Replacement boards go for under $200.

Cracked backglass, toasted cabinet, roached playfield, warped plastics... it's a "I'll haul it away for free", to maybe $50.00 parts machine at most.