(Topic ID: 277837)

Bally Groundshaker no power/lights on playfield

By nagamitsu

3 years ago


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  • 21 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by nagamitsu
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#1 3 years ago

Trying to troubleshoot a friend's pin. I reseated all connectors to PCB boards in the head, check the Buss fuses there as well and visually they look good. (reseated as well). Machine powers on, have lights and some sign of life on the score displays, absolutely nothing on playfield and won't start a game. Checked all tilt switches as well, nothing contacting.

Tim

#2 3 years ago

Hmm. We are going to need some more info. Is this a newaddition to someones collection? Have they owned it a long time? Has it ever worked? So far, it sounds like That game isnt completely booting up. You said the display has some sort of life, what do you see? If the game was booting and only the playfield lights werent coming on it probably would be the general illumination connector in the backbox. Those GI connectors can get very burned and crispy. If it is browning, replace it. Lets first get this game booting though. Id also check fuses with a multimeter. A fuse can visually look fine but still be popped.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from In99flames:

Hmm. We are going to need some more info. Is this a newaddition to someones collection? Have they owned it a long time? Has it ever worked? So far, it sounds like That game isnt completely booting up. You said the display has some sort of life, what do you see? If the game was booting and only the playfield lights werent coming on it probably would be the general illumination connector in the backbox. Those GI connectors can get very burned and crispy. If it is browning, replace it. Lets first get this game booting though. Id also check fuses with a multimeter. A fuse can visually look fine but still be popped.

Thanks. He's owned the game for quite some time. It was working about two weeks ago, fired up recently to these symptoms. So there's all lights on backbox, the score displays show some lines and a dot, but I believe he's always had it show that way (other possible issues there). There's simply no life (no lights, can't start game, on playfield). I agree, I'll check the fuses better than just visually, as it seems like there's simply no power going to the playfield at this point.

Tim

#4 3 years ago

Prepare to go through the game as if it were a new project arrival. If he's had it for years hopefully he's been changing the batteries or you may have a true mess on your hands when you get there. Hopefully it's an easy fix but go in loaded for bear.

#5 3 years ago

Earthshaker is a Williams game, not Bally. You can click on edit of your post 1 and change the title name of the thread.

#6 3 years ago

Pictures would be better since like the first responder stated, needs more details.

Picture of the display and the MPU with the game on will be helpful.

#7 3 years ago

Apparently can't edit my title to fix it to Williams. (although thought the Nitro Groundshaker tagged, listed as Bally, was the machine in question) Not sure why I had Bally on my mind. Going to be awhile to get pics, there's not much to show, backbox fully lit up and powered and the score displays as mentioned (although this symptom exited earlier I believe) no numbers, just some lines and a dot.

The playfield has no power at all. That's it. Boards in backbox, reseated/checked all harness/connections, only a green solid LED on one main board, reseated fuses (but as previously suggested, could still be bad but not showing visual issue). Basically no power/life to playfield.

Tim

#8 3 years ago

Ughh... Bally Nitro Groundshaker. That is a whole different board set than Earthshaker.

I will have to rethink everything that was posted.

Nothing has changed though for the need of pictures of the boards. Helpful in many ways.

#9 3 years ago

Fixed title, I was getting the Groundshaker/Earthshaker confused in way of names.

Tim

#10 3 years ago

Lets start over...This is a Bally Groundshaker right? Can you post some pictures of the MPU and rectifier board by the transformer?
I'm thinking burned connectors on the rectifier board and possible MPU battery damage. How many flashes on the mpu LED when the game boots? Should filcker then flash 7 times.

2 weeks later
#11 3 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Lets start over...This is a Bally Groundshaker right? Can you post some pictures of the MPU and rectifier board by the transformer?
I'm thinking burned connectors on the rectifier board and possible MPU battery damage. How many flashes on the mpu LED when the game boots? Should filcker then flash 7 times.

Ok, was finally able to see the machine again. MPU honestly doesn't seem to have batteries at all, I'd expect to see AA batteries? The LED on the MPU is indicating an error (not sure fully what) flashes a single time, with a short delay, then two more and then goes solid green. So three flashes? The power supply board however, there appears to be someone's previous repair job on it in the lower left, one of the mosfet appears replaced and the traces on the back near it must have been damaged and pulled up. They jumpered a wire across (possible ground) to have continuity going across. There's a resistor above this one that behind it on the PCB board is burnt/something had caught on fire at some point. But the resistor doesn't look burnt, and hard to determine if previous repair person may have replaced this resistor. The burn on the board originates from the mosfet, but the current one appears to be original to the rest.

I've brought the power board home to try to clean up this butcher repair job and test the resistor/mosfet. I checked all fuses and they check out, are passing current. After reseating these again after testing, there was one single light on the playfield showing lit, which it wasn't before, but still everything else on playfield dead/no power or life showing.

Tim

#12 3 years ago

If I'm reading you correctly the 4th flash is bad. That indicates a problem with U10. You could try carefully swapping U10 and 11 and see if that changes things.

No batteries, previous owner may have installed a remote battery pack. The batteries would be on the bottom of the MPU.
Anyway, you need to repair the hacks and get the power going. Some photos of the MPU and other hacks and boards would really help.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

If I'm reading you correctly the 4th flash is bad. That indicates a problem with U10. You could try carefully swapping U10 and 11 and see if that changes things.
No batteries, previous owner may have installed a remote battery pack. The batteries would be on the bottom of the MPU.
Anyway, you need to repair the hacks and get the power going. Some photos of the MPU and other hacks and boards would really help.

Quoted from BigAl56:

If I'm reading you correctly the 4th flash is bad. That indicates a problem with U10. You could try carefully swapping U10 and 11 and see if that changes things.
No batteries, previous owner may have installed a remote battery pack. The batteries would be on the bottom of the MPU.
Anyway, you need to repair the hacks and get the power going. Some photos of the MPU and other hacks and boards would really help.

Thanks! So with other reading on this, is the initial flash a "flicker", followed by two flashes? Reading on U10 thread where they reference getting flashes after an initial flicker. Going to see what I can do with fixing up the bad repair jobs first, and I'll have to get my hands on the MPU as well if U10

Tim

#14 3 years ago

Just to clarify,

First flicker = MPU is running and loading the program.
First Flash =Checking the program chips, U1-6
Second Flash = U7, 6810 RAM
Third Flash = U8, 5101 nmos/ Volital ram
4th through 6th flashes, U9-11.

If you were counting the flicker as a flash what you mean is you are getting 2 flashes and locking up on the 3rd. That would indicate a bad U8, 5101 Ram.

Not an unusual failure. U8 is closer to where the battery leaks and can cause a lot of board damage. Can you post a video of the board booting with a steady closeup on the LED to clear any confusion? Also some clear pictures of the area around the bottom of the board where the battery once was.

Sounds like some significant battery damage has already occurred there. It very well may be too late to salvage the board.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Just to clarify,
First flicker = MPU is running and loading the program.
First Flash =Checking the program chips, U1-6
Second Flash = U7, 6810 RAM
Third Flash = U8, 5101 nmos/ Volital ram
4th through 6th flashes, U9-11.
If you were counting the flicker as a flash what you mean is you are getting 2 flashes and locking up on the 3rd. That would indicate a bad U8, 5101 Ram.
Not an unusual failure. U8 is closer to where the battery leaks and can cause a lot of board damage. Can you post a video of the board booting with a steady closeup on the LED to clear any confusion? Also some clear pictures of the area around the bottom of the board where the battery once was.
Sounds like some significant battery damage has already occurred there. It very well may be too late to salvage the board.

Thanks! Yes, if I counted correctly, first initial flash, two blinks of light, then solid green on third one. So U8/5101 should be the case. Wish the machine wasn't an hour drive to get back to it to do further work. I had taken the power supply board home to go over, and as messy as the previous repairs look, it seems to have continuity through the area fine and components appear fine.

Back to MPU then, if LED status correct, I'll get pics of the areas requested, and will watch the LED startup again to verify it is locking on 3rd.

Tim

#16 3 years ago

You would be best served ordering a replacement MPU now rather than have to make another trip. These missing flash problems more times than not are due to unrepairable age and/or battery damage. Maybe have the game owner send over some photos of the bottom of the MPU board you can post in advance.
If it turns out just a bad or dirty chip you can reuse or sell off the replacement board. But if travel is a concern you can swap out the MPU and avoid another trip.

#17 3 years ago

It's very odd that the led would stay ON while testing - that usually doesn't happen. Most of the time if you get the flash test starting it will just stay off when it gets to the fail component (all the tests do an endless loop when they fail, they don't go to light the LED)

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's very odd that the led would stay ON while testing - that usually doesn't happen. Most of the time if you get the flash test starting it will just stay off when it gets to the fail component (all the tests do an endless loop when they fail, they don't go to light the LED)

Yes, as mentioned, there's a brief flicker on start, then I count at least two solid flashes, then stops on a solid and kept on green.

Last time I was at the machine, one single light on the playfield was lit when machine powered on. It wasn't like that before. Still no life then, doesn't coin up, doesn't start game. Just the full backbox lit, and now a single light on playfield.

Tim

#19 3 years ago

Thanks for all the help. So it was stopping after third light, so U10 or U11. Popped out U11 IC first and it looked fine. U10 a different story, darkened pins and very brittle pins, two were broken off in the socket and I suspect at some point making enough contact for the game to work, but changes in temperature or board flexing caused it to stop. Going to order a replacement IC and replace the socket.

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3 weeks later
#20 3 years ago

Replaced the socket for U10, ordered/replaced the IC, get 2 LED flashes and stops (no stop on green for third, I may have been mistaken on that last time). So now it looks like U8, the 5101 RAM/socket. The MPU has the original circular battery on board, now that I know what this looks like. Am either replacing socket and 5101 RAM for U8 and cross fingers, or buy/find a fully working MPU and swap the whole thing.

Damn socket for U10, these boards were made horrible, traces lifting with desoldering, never seen a board have traces just pop off so easily. (having hardened a Galaga main and video board, about 40 sockets and never a trace come up)

Tim

1 year later
#21 2 years ago

So finally got further on this. Friend didn't order the 5101 NVRAM that may have fixed the MPU, I had him obtain one of the universal Marco boards, swapped it in yesterday. Playfield now works, all lights/targets. However, not a single solenoid (ball kick out, flippers) do not work. They worked before old MPU failed. Seems like low power however, flippers make a light buzzing noise and move a hair. So maybe solenoid driver board now? Original solenoid board has some old repairs on it, and am thinking of just finding/getting a replacement. But wondering if anyone may have encountered similar when using a modern MPU?

I may suggest he gets this now too: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ULTSDB

Tim

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