(Topic ID: 274278)

Bally Display / scoring wonkyness


By Clnilsen

11 days ago



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  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Validpowerdetect
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#1 11 days ago

Got my Bally Playboy up and running, and everything seems to be generally ok during play, except for the displays. I can start a game fine (and the lower left display starts at zero), but as I play I can hear chimes for scoring, but then the lower left display shows nothing (aka blank). Once the game is over, the display then seems to display a random number (which *might* be the score, but I'm not sure). Sound works fine FWIW.

None of the other displays are showing anything.

I've already switched out the MPU, solenoid driver, and light boards for alltek boards. No change in behavior.

I'm wondering, is it likely the displays (which don't look all that great to begin with) are borked, or is there a possibility of something else in the mix I'm missing. I'm not sure where else to trouble shoot on this at this point and any directions would appreciate.

Thanks!!!

Edit - Added Display test results, and a sample of the wonky scoring #

IMG_2364 (resized).jpegIMG_2365 (resized).jpeg
#2 11 days ago

When you start a one player game, the top left display should start at zero.

With power off, move player 3 display to player 1.

More to do after confirming you can get player 1 working.

#3 11 days ago

According to the pictures, two of your displays are working or can be saved: bottom left and Ball In Play displays.

Moving the working display to the top left is a good idea but it is not enough.

Turn the power off and disconnect all displays. Always turn off power when touching the displays or their connectors, as there is a very high voltage getting to them (160 - 240 VDC). That will burn or shake you very badly, if you get electrocuted.

After removing all the displays, put aside the working ones and re-flow all the solders leading to the connector. Re-flowing means, melting the existing solder and adding fresh one on top. If you are not familiar with soldering ask a buddy who tinkers with electronics or a repair shop. These large connectors cracks the solders when they are poorly handled a few times.

After doing that, only re-install the TOP LEFT and BALL IN PLAY good and re-flowed displays and start a game. See what it does and report to us.

Yves

#4 9 days ago

What happens when you put the machine in display test?
I’m in Ocala, perhaps I could give you a hand.
I have a dozen of these classic Ballys.
Jim.

#5 9 days ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

What happens when you put the machine in display test?
I’m in Ocala, perhaps I could give you a hand.
I have a dozen of these classic Ballys.
Jim.

On;y 2 displays come on. I suspect part of the issue could be loose wires in plugs. Moving known good displays around does not move the problem. Going to punch everything down this weekend and retest -hopefully it helps!

Thank you so much for the offer!! Let me see where I end up.

#6 8 days ago
Quoted from Clnilsen:

Moving known good displays around does not move the problem.

Good to know.

With power off reset the left left connector to the MPU board. Any change?

#7 8 days ago

On the displays the don’t work, what is TP2 read? Caution, high voltage!

When I have display problems, the first thing I do is reflow the header pins. They get cracked because of the
force it takes to seat the plug.

#8 5 days ago

OK, got my punchdown tool today. You're right - these plugs STINK!!!

Couple of things I've discovered, that might be catastrophic fails. I have 3 displays that "seem" like they're getting some activity, but nothing close to any way functional.

- Player 1 display plug was backwards (pin1 on plug to pin20 on display). I'm guessing display 1 is F-R-I-E-D. Discovered there's no keys in any of my plugs.

- Definitely have some loose wires, and while I've punched them down, not sure how long they are going to last. Thinking of trying to replug these, but not sure how to do it with the "pass through" wire scheme. Get new punch-down style plugs, or try something else entirely? Curious what best practice is on these at this point.

Thinking of scrapping the displays and trying a set of the pinitech ones, to at least have something known good. I prefer keeping things original as much as possible, but I've already changes out to alltek boards, so thinking changing displays at this point isn't going to make a big difference.

#9 5 days ago

To use crimp type connectors you just crimp 2 wires into one pin. Use the larger 16-18 size pin for this. They will be tight but they will work. Usually you cannot get the insulation in as well, but that's not a problem. Some people solder them after crimping, I don't do this. I don't plan on pulling on anything but the connector body when removing. Also, if you are tempted to use trifurcon (little wings on the connector pin) do NOT for these 20 pins connectors! It will make it almost impossible to get the connectors off in the future without a lot of force. I don't even use these on the rectifier board 20 pin connector anymore for the same reason. They don't handle more current than the normal ones (not sure why this is, they have more surface area? but who am I to argue with Ed at great plains electronics?), but they do hold on better in higher vibration environments.

You're going to have to do this regardless if you stick with original displays or change. Personally I'd change them if you don't have a backstock of gas plasma displays to go into. I did just refurbish 4 displays in a project machine that were all 'dead' but had the orange glow.... couple transistors, rebuilt HV section, resoldered all the connector pins and boom, all working. Bit of mottling on the left side of one so that one gets to go into the credit/ball in play display (credits don't show for free play setting anyway) - player 4 gets the other one that's got a tad of the same. Other 3 are perfect.

#10 5 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

To use crimp type connectors you just crimp 2 wires into one pin. Use the larger 16-18 size pin for this. They will be tight but they will work. Usually you cannot get the insulation in as well, but that's not a problem. Some people solder them after crimping, I don't do this. I don't plan on pulling on anything but the connector body when removing. Also, if you are tempted to use trifurcon (little wings on the connector pin) do NOT for these 20 pins connectors! It will make it almost impossible to get the connectors off in the future without a lot of force. I don't even use these on the rectifier board 20 pin connector anymore for the same reason. They don't handle more current than the normal ones (not sure why this is, they have more surface area? but who am I to argue with Ed at great plains electronics?), but they do hold on better in higher vibration environments.
You're going to have to do this regardless if you stick with original displays or change. Personally I'd change them if you don't have a backstock of gas plasma displays to go into. I did just refurbish 4 displays in a project machine that were all 'dead' but had the orange glow.... couple transistors, rebuilt HV section, resoldered all the connector pins and boom, all working. Bit of mottling on the left side of one so that one gets to go into the credit/ball in play display (credits don't show for free play setting anyway) - player 4 gets the other one that's got a tad of the same. Other 3 are perfect.

The Trifurcon pins are overkill for most pinball applications, as are all the recommended mods from the guys who publish repair guides. For home use, none of that bullet proof stuff is necessary. If your going to route something and power is on 24/7 then do it all.

#11 4 days ago

If you want to work on these machines, you have to use a meter. People here can give you all kinds of help, but we need readings.
Do you have hv at tp2 on every board?

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