Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987So I got my first pin recently and for the most part it's been working great until one day the flippers became unresponsive and I got a 'Check FU1 or Field Fuse' message.
I checked all the fuses in the back box with a DMM and saw that FU1 had been blown, I replaced it and the game worked for maybe 5 minutes before it blew again.
I checked voltages and am getting 143 volts on the 43v line so that's obviously why the fuse is blowing.
I'm new to this so is there a usual suspect here?
Well, that's not good, is it? Try checking AC in to the power supply board. The transformer secondary supplies 49VDC for the solenoids...check at pins 1 to pin 2 on J5, this should be roughly 49 VAC. If that is far off, you got a transformer problem. If this is jumpered wrong for the country, that could be problem. To verify check on the manul page 2-5
There's also a lot of info here, not necessarily related to this problem...but keep it handy
http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/
Finally had a minute, replaced BR1 and checked R1, which seems to be within spec
Unfortunately, I still have the same issue.
I ordered a fuse kit from Marcos which seems to be all fast blow fuses, but this guide says I should be using slow blow, would that make a difference?
did you disconnect all the playfield connectors from the boards first and then see if the fuse blows? Does it blow right away, or only when you try to use something?
A slow blow fuse is designed to handle the surge of current up to, say about 10 times its rating very briefly. It's also called a time delay fuse. As CaptainNeo suggested, you should disconnect the playfield connectors from the boards. If you power up and the fuse blows, regardless of if it as fast blow or slow blow type of the correct rating, then you have some direct short. If the fuse does not blow, then you must install the correct slow blow fuse before reconnecting the playfield. Power up again, if the slow blow type blows again - either a coil was stuck on due to a board problem (shorted or stuck on transistor), or the playfield has some direct short. If it did not blow until you started a game only, then most likely a coil was stuck on due to a switch problem.
Quoted from bakasama:It only blows when the flipper buttons are engaged
Does this happen when either flipper button is engaged, or just one?
Some information on the flipper system:
"Bally used a unique system of EOS switches in their games with more than two flippers. For example, on Eight Ball Champ (which has three flippers), the lower right flipper has two EOS switch. One EOS switch is Normally-Open (NO), and the other is Normally-Closed (NC). The normally-closed EOS switch acts just like a standard EOS switch for the lower flipper. But the second normally-open EOS switch is connected to the upper flipper. The high power portion of the upper flipper coil does energize until the lower flipper has completed it's "flip", and closes the normally-open second EOS switch. In other words, if the lower flipper doesn't flip, the upper flipper won't energize either! This unique system on the 6803 can cause quite a bit of confusion, since is it different than the flipper systems used by othre manufacturers"
Quoted from CaptainNeo:so it doesn't blow when you go through coil test?
I'll have to check that, I'll also check and see which flipper button pops the fuse, but I believe it is both.
When I replace the fuse the game powers up and plays until one of the flippers is engaged too long. I think both flippers do it but I'll have to test.
Quoted from bakasama:I'll have to check that, I'll also check and see which flipper button pops the fuse, but I believe it is both.
When I replace the fuse the game powers up and plays until one of the flippers is engaged too long. I think both flippers do it but I'll have to test.
Have you check the EOS are adjusted properly? If the high power flipper coil winding is not switching to low power hold after the initial flip, the fuse will blow within a few seconds.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Have you check the EOS are adjusted properly? If the high power flipper coil winding is not switching to low power hold after the initial flip, the fuse will blow within a few seconds.
I have not, I just now looked at a video showing how EOS works so I'll check that as well
don't be afraid to prop the field up on it's stick and try the flippers, so you can watch what's going on. Then you will see if there is arching on the EOS's or not. Plus you can see to make sure they are hitting correctly.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-dd-6803-blowing-fu1 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Mableton, GA