(Topic ID: 263600)

Bally Pop Bumper Switch Assembly Info Needed

By woz

4 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by fb_rider
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#1 4 years ago

I'm working on a Bally Aladdin's Castle that has DC pop bumpers. The high current switches are toast so I am looking for replacements and also the plastic spoon as well (it may have melted - I don't have the game with me to check)

The switch assembly is Bally part #AS-982-1088

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=as-982-1088

Unfortunately, Marco doesn't have stock and it's also not listed on PBR website either.

I would love to hear suggestions for alternates? Would a System 1 pop bumper switch stack fit (that has high current contacts)?

I would also be fine with just the switchblades.

Thanks!
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#2 4 years ago

Call Steve at Pinball Resource. He may something as a kit or just not advertised on the website. I have had to make something similar and used individual pieces supplied by Steve.

#3 4 years ago

Yes, the system 1 would work if you change the scoring switch to high current as well. Any EM bumper switch stack would work too, there's no difference on a DC vs AC high current setup (although the coil should have a diode on it, but that's not as crucial on an EM... the bridge rectifier is after all 4 diodes....)

You should order from PBR a bunch of different weighted switch blades (a couple heavy duty, LOTS of medium duty [most switches are medium], and some light duty for spinners), and lots of spare contacts, then you can make your own switch blades.

I keep a LOT of switches from parted out games/playfields, you used to be able to buy cosmetically trashed but fully populated playfields at shows for $10 or so (those days are LONG gone, though) - the value of the parts you can get from it is priceless. All those early solid state switches that operators filed in error are a WEALTH of switch parts that you don't have to buy, all you have to do it cut the old contact out and put a new one in. Leaf switches' lifetime is several magnitudes greater that microswitches, I even replace some microswitches in later games with leafs, because you can fine tune leafs. Mircos it's the main blade actuator or nothing.

#4 4 years ago

Thanks for the advice I've got some System 1 playfields for spares but that's it...I'm not really a Bally guy.

As suggested I'll contact PBR and see what Steve suggests.

Are the individual blades interchangeable between Bally, Williams, and Gottlieb in terms of hole spacing and size?

The coil diode suppresses the back EMF so it will help prevent the switch arcing a burning...I suspect the diode is what has possibly failed (or is missing) and has caused the contacts to fail.

#5 4 years ago

I wrote up a guide for building/rebuilding leaf switches a while back, it may be helpful for you. Here's the link if you want to check it out: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/building-re-building-leaf-switches

Also, the switch leaves should be standard size across the different manufacturers. There's probably a few odd exceptions, but I've been building switches for nearly all my games using the switch parts the Pinball Resource sells. EOS and cabinet flipper switches, pop bumper and slingshot switches, playfield switches, etc.

Good luck!

#6 4 years ago

Use Gottlieb # B17108 and B17109 switch assemblies.

3 years later
#7 5 months ago

I'm in the same situation trying to rebuild the pop bumpers in my Capt. Fantastic. Curious why the Williams/Bally SW-11A-35 switches won't work? They seem to look exactly the same in the picture.

#8 5 months ago

Ive got some used pieces if you are desperate.

#9 5 months ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Ive got some used pieces if you are desperate.

Thanks but I want to figure out how to make something new work.

#10 5 months ago

You could take the switch stack apart and just replace the switch leaves. PBR sells replacement leaves and contacts.

#11 5 months ago
Quoted from fb_rider:

Thanks but I want to figure out how to make something new work.

New as is the entire stack? You can buy all the parts from pinball resource and build a new one if you really want to. Are your originals hosed in some way that can't be repaired? Switch contacts last a LONG time, and can be redressed to work correctly (you have to do this with new contacts anyway if you're doing the job correctly).

Quoted from frunch:

You could take the switch stack apart and just replace the switch leaves. PBR sells replacement leaves and contacts.

You can just replace the contacts if the blades are in good shape.

That part # referenced earlier likely has gold contacts for at least one set of the switch contacts it's not clear from the marcospec info which you will get, I think it's listed incorrectly there as 'electromechanical' - but the game compatibility lists mostly solid state games. So it's either correct for em games, or correct for ss games. Cannot be both.

#12 5 months ago

Great point maybe just looking for everything to look new

#13 5 months ago

To make sure I understand, what is the difference between EM and SS switches?

#14 5 months ago

EM switches use tungsten contacts capable of handling high current, SS switches generally use gold-flashed contacts that are designed for low-current use. You'll often find both kinds on earlier SS games: the gold contacts are usually found on switch matrix switches, tungsten contacts are often used for flipper cabinet switches and end of stroke switches.

#15 5 months ago

The low voltage gold flashed switches used for switch matrix also has a diode on it, which isn't needed for EM circuits (unless they are DC instead of AC)

#16 4 months ago

Another question...
I've been working on cleaning up my old switches, which is actually going better than I expected, but just curious why the gold scoring contacts have one where the large side of the contact is pointing away from the other - so basically it's the back side of the contact touching the front of the other. All 3 of mine are this way, and as I look at pictures of others they look the same as well.
Thoughts?

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#17 4 months ago
Quoted from fb_rider:

but just curious why the gold scoring contacts have one where the large side of the contact is pointing away from the other

See this thread for speculation:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-discovered-a-major-issue-on-game-plan-machines#post-7765575

1 month later
#19 3 months ago

I ended up finding some NOS switches. Not cheap, but look and work great!

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