the spacer wafer arrangement and extra blades the button shaft touches (if any) will look pretty much like the switch stacks under the left and right buttons.

the r-button switches are:
- white/yellow 53-18 and white/blue 52-9 wires. Normally open (closes when button pushed). Switch powers search index coil
- white 50-16 and blue/red 21-3. Normally open. In circuit to power shutter motor when collecting an OK game.

all your wires look gray? If you can't tell, the easy thing is to pull the cabinet plugs and use an ohmeter/continuity tester to identify the wires using the plug chart in the manual.

got a picture of what you have?

oops ... I missed the third switch:

wire 21-3 to 54-11 - normally open - resets the timer unit

the double wire with the short bit on your gesture finger is 21-3.

the white/green 54-11 you can tell ... I think. There's a white/green and a white/blue. White/blue looks like the bottom wire. Follow the wires back into the harness a little and see if the green gets brighter.

that leaves white and white/yellow.

can you take side view pics of both sides, and is stack as it exists factory or has some of those pieces been separated also?

that's good ... your picture doesn't look like the wires would be connecting correctly in the stack you assembled so far

if you're head scratching by this weekend, email me at [email protected] and I'll take some pics of a switch in a screen game on saturday. I could probably cut the switch out too.

could be camera angle, but I'd guess the second blade from the top and the bottom blade need to be swapped ... not the wires connected to those positions, but the blades themselves to get the contacts to line up with each other.

also, unless the two contacts are high power tungsten disc-shaped ones, you should have a dome shape contact touching a disc shape contact.

take a look at the switches under the left and right buttons to see how they look.

it's kinda odd that the bottom switch is relying on the fish paper insulator and the middle switch to push the blade down. Typically there'd be another long blade with a white nylon cylinder ... but maybe not in this case.

if it works and doesn't short stuff together that shouldn't be connected, if you make sure the contacts are aligned, the rest is pedantic

I pulled a search wiper lock coil from a roller derby. It was a k-303 @ 27.5 ohms. It may not have been the original coil tho ... I shoulda taken it apart there and looked in more games.

you have to remove the coil from the bracket and look at the bottom to see the part number. It's on a paper band wound around the lug area.

the usual coil part number when it appeared in manuals was C-2794-303

make sure you dig the meter probes thru surface oxidation to get a good resistance measurement.

a higher resistance coil will be weaker and if the clutches are sticky there could be too much force on the armature plate for the coil to drag it out of the notch, but that doesn't seem likely.

touching a jumper wire from wire 30 to wire 52-9 on the coil will prove if the coil is ok. Wire 70 is the fat orange - usually double - wire on the coil. 52-9 is the other lug.

you have the stack wired ok. 54-11 and 50-16 are swapped, but it doesn't make a functional difference.

oh ... forgot the pedantic annoying bit ...

all the switch blades have the domed contact on the top side.

I've been through some manuals making notes on the coils used when I had nothing better to do, I don't see any reference to the coil in any of the manuals I've looked at so far except the Miss America '75 and Malibu Beach, both of which note it's a FD-30-1300, the old number for this coil was E-184-248. Action Pinball's web site (out of Salt Lake, I think the guy's name was Ray years ago) says it's 22 ohms.

the changing part numbers and small variations between similar coils is just something to put up with .. or take advantage of.

C-2794-303 is the early part number. Shoot-A-Line and Lite-A-Line manuals had it, and those are the same time frame as the screen games (except Malibu Beach). That number was still used on Bonus 7 in 1970, and appeared occasionally in manuals up to that time.

FD-30-1300 was used on most games after Bonus 7, starting with Stock Market.

if the manuals are right ... and that's a big if on the 1970's game ...

EA-29-950 was used on Ticker Tape in 1972. Same as the search index coil.
ED-30-1300 was used on Miss America Supreme - probably a typo

to further confuse things:

E-184-248 new part number was FC-30-1300.

difference between FC and FD ... dunno. The format of the "new" style numbers is:
bobbin id - wire gauge - number of turns of wire around bobbin

besides the obvious size and shape differences for the bobbin there was stuff like location of the lugs, right angle bends on the lugs, the metal on top of the coil, did it have an embedded brass washer to reduce magnetizing the bracket, etc.

I've never seen a document that decodes the bobbin prefix.

fwiw, any of the above coils would likely work in any game except an EA-29-950. On a game that the coil would stay powered as long as the button was pushed, you'd have an embedded toaster. Most games would be fine with an EA-29-950 because a switch on the locking cam opens when the search wipers are released and disconnects the coil almost immediately. That switch was not on County Fair or previous games, but it was on the next game Laguna Beach.

Wiper 20A sits on top of the cam on the search disc. The cam lifts a small stack of switches (A and B) which are closed when the wipers are at index. The switch should have no bearing on your issue.

Continuity may not be enough, you can get positive continuity but a drop in voltage will cause a problem, so you'll need to run the voltmeter and see if there's a drop somewhere. The tilt relay L1 needs to be closed as well.

The switch under the "R" button can get really crudded up from dirt and grime through the years and may be acting as a resistor, that's very common. I would look there first.

ya got the right idea, but you shoulda turned left at albuquerque.

for a 50V coil to power, one side needs to be connected to wire 70 and the other side to wire 30. Almost all the 50V coils have wire 70 directly on a coil lug, so that makes life easier.

wire 21-3 is connected to wire 30 when the tilt trip relay isn't tripped. The circuit for the search wiper lock coil is left on wire 93-3 from the before 4th trip relay switch, thru the tilt trip switch and shutter cam switch.

you can use a voltmeter as okorange says .. one probe on wire 70, the other along that path - ideally with the R button pushed down so the circuit is closed - and look for where the 50V drops. If the circuit isn't closed, the meter will find an open connection but not a cruddy one.

you can also jumper wire 30 to points along that path and see when the R button works. Lifting the playfield is annoying, so I'd access wire 40-8 on the back of a plug or the selection feature unit disc.

the freebie HF meter is fine. It's normal with any meter to need to dig the probes tips into the metal/solder a little to get thru surface oxidation. Sharper probes make that a bit easier.

guess I described the jumper technique badly. You want one end of the jumper on wire 21-3 or wire 30. 30 on the transformer is the best place, but if most of the game works then wire 21-3 is also good enough,

use the other end of the jumper on the wires you mentioned ... 40-8, 93-3, etc. and push the R button to see when it works and when it doesn't.

also, if you stuck the rail onto the game and adjusted the R-button switch to just close when the R button was all the way down, it may not work when the glass is installed because the glass will raise the rail up a little. Take out the rail and use a screwdriver to push down the switches thru the button shaft hole to make sure you get them closed.

Have you cleaned the Jones plugs connecting the head to the cab? It's possible that's where your problem is. See the last page of the manual, 53-18 is the 10th connection down on the left side of the 24 plug. These can get corroded at times and cause issues. I'd do that quickly before getting into reflowing solder, etc.

couldn't tell the wire colors, or when you moved blades in post #9 you didn't reattach the wires so they stayed in the same blade positions?