(Topic ID: 208297)

Bally Cheap Squeak Remote Volume Control


By Noham

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There have been 4 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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#1 1 year ago

I have been having sound issues with my Bally Lady Luck. After replacing the capacitors, a chip on the board, and the remote volume control I finally got the sound working. There was a variety of issues. I did not play the game for a month or two and suddenly the sound was gone again. I was checking the remote volume control and could faintly hear the music. I wiggled the black wire attached to the third lead on the remote volume control and the sounds returned to normal. I figured there was a problem with my soldering job or a bad connection in the wire. I cut the wire and spliced in a new wire. When I put the wire back to the third lead no sound. In the process of messing around, I realized that if I connected the black wire that is supposed to go to the third lead to the second lead on the remote volume control, the sounds work. I check the schematic and the black wire is supposed to go to the third lead on the remote volume control.

One hand I am tempted to permanently attach the black wire to the second lead and call it a day. The other part of me wants to know why it is not working as it is supposed to according to its design. I appreciate any insight that you can offer. Thanks.

#2 1 year ago

BCBF2F36-1635-4022-832E-F086F9EE163A (resized).jpeg

#3 1 year ago

The center post should be the wiper of the rheostat, increasing the ohms from 0 to whatever, the outside posts should be the total resistance which is non adjustable, I see no reason to not use it with the center post.

#4 1 year ago

Did you buy a wirewound potentiometer or just a standard carbon potentiometer?

#5 1 year ago

I am not sure how do I tell?

#6 1 year ago

If you're not sure, you most likely have a carbon pot. The potentiometer in this circuit is connected in series with the speaker(s) and a carbon pot won't handle the current in this circuit.
Generally you need to go out of your way to find wirewound pots because they're not so common.
The three little rivets on the potentiomer picture tell me it's carbon, but if you post a pic of the other side of the pot especially if there's an opening where the connections go in we can better tell.

If you still have the old pot and the two edge terminals read proper resistance as stated on the pot, I would open it up, give it a little clean, bend the wiper arm a little to restore its tension (this is a common reason why they go intermittent besides getting dirty) and put it back in.

#7 1 year ago

Here is the new pots

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#8 1 year ago

Here is the old pots. I am not sure how well this was working.

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58506F83-3BE1-44D1-A115-4BDCE5928DE6 (resized).jpeg

#9 1 year ago

Looks to me like the old pot you removed is also the wrong one.
Best I can make out is that you need a 100 Ohm, 5 Watt wirewound pot:

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ct2154-nd

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