Quick lowdown
-Not new to electronics, certainly not an expert just not completely green.
-First pin, paid $200, didnt do the most thorough homework before purchasing, guy was in a rush, of course, and I'm a sucker. Dont regret it tho, good little starter machine to get the hang of these things I feel, and if I trick it out and spiff it up, I'll have gotten my money's worth through having experienced it.
-Machine's in great shape tho, 9/10 BG, and 7/10 PF, and 8/10 Cab.
Problems-
After first ball drains, wont kick out again, as if it doesnt register the drain. Switch is good, and obviously the solenoids good so i went through and reflowed ALL the joints on the logic board. Going to reseat the CPU when I get home from work today(where I'm writing this cuz now I cant focus on work..) and reflow all the joints on the power supply board. I didnt do that first cuz it fired up and almost everything else works on it so I figured it was getting the correct voltages everywhere.. haven't actually checked yet tho.
-The 1's digit on the l.e.d. display doesnt show at all. And the 10's digit flickers a little if u hit a bumper.
-The right spinner doesnt register points. I assume, perhaps incorrectly, that'll be an easy fix as the kickout is my primary concern.
-The tilt doesnt work, as in no voltage to either the plumb bob or the ring it would sway into.

I've got the Bally home edition fix it manual with all the schematics and logics thanks to Ken Layton, thanks Ken, and an oscilloscope arriving tomorrow. I was just hoping to reflow some would be cold joints to fix this thing without having to do a real deep dive, but it's looking like that's what's going to be required. Unless anyone has any other quick fix tips.. I also already went to a local electronics store and grabbed two or three of almost all the transistors and caps that may need to be replaced, so I've got those on hand as well. Hoping to not have to replace the CPU Mostek 3870 as having to do so would really piss me off and i would then defenitely be unable to justify the purchase to myself or my wife as its already a stretch to do so.. Any and all help, advice, or personal opinions of the purchase are welcome, thanks everyone.
-BigUgly

Thank u so much for your reply big al. I noticed what u said about a lot of those problems being on the same line of the switch matrix as well a day or two after my original post. I swapped out M1 for a new transistor, tip-115 i think it was, and it solved every problem I had on that line, ball 2 kicked right out, i was stoked. Then as far as the 1's digit not working on the display, i just went through the logic board and reflowed every single joint on the board and that seemed to do it, all 6 digits on the led display worked, stoked again. All that was left at that point was the right spinner not registering and the bulb under the right thumper bumper not lighting. So today, i removed the top playfield, reflowed the joints under the right spinner switch and removed the right thumper bumper coil so as to better the bulb connections that looked to be shorting on the bumper coil assembly. I bettered the bulb joints, covering them with heat shrink so they wouldn't short and then put the coil assembly back in place and the playfield back on. When I pushed the start button, the right spinner worked and the bulb actually came on and stayed on. then I hit the left flipper button and the right thumper bumper and various other coils started going off at random, then I heard one, i believe the right tb coil, stay on. I immediately hit the off switch, pulled the playfield back up and decided the right tb coil diode looked too black for my taste and swapped it out with a new in4004. I hit the breakers in the back, and fired it up. Now the display doesnt work at all, neither do any of the other lights on the logic board, AND as soon as I hit the left flipper button coils start firing and one of them, the right tb coil, stays on for about 3 seconds until it blows the breaker in the back or I can hit the off switch, whichever comes first. I don't know what I did? I didnt take a pic of the coil diode before I swapped it out so maybe I put it on backwards? I read that if so it would immediately blow the diode and probably the transistor and maybe more but when I pull the logic board off I don't see any damage to anything and I checked all the transistors with my DMM and they check good. I havent turned the diode around yet, dont know if thats the problem almost too scared to turn it on at this point. I don't know what to do. I was down to solving my last problem than this happens.. any help would be appreciated, thanks big al.

I still dont know Ken. But I'm taking your advice and simply rebuilding the entire power supply circuit. It may not be easier than the alternative but it'll give price of mind knowing they're all new components. I did play around with it a bit and got the display to come back on but its only showing 3 digits and only the flippers worked which told me to just build a new power supply and hope I dont have to replace too much on the logic board, we'll see. Thanks for your responses and I'll let u know how it goes. Anything but having to replace the CPU is a win at this point.

Hey guys, am I absolutely insane or is there a typo on the series 2 power supply wiring diagram. The 78M05 feeds the 5v logic board but it has leg 2, which is G, going to pin 8(+5v Logic Board), and leg 3, which is Vout, going to pin 9(Common ground). Whenever I checked pin 8 and 9, I could never get a +5v reading but yet the machine was running in that state. I think the logic board was getting its 5 from the playfeild light circuit and when I repaired and closed that, and repaired s-11 which is the right spinner everything went haywire, because, like I said 600d came up on the display and all the lights worked but solenoids were now seemingly firing at random and things were suddenly not right at all. Whaddya think? Thanks guys.

Seriously Ken? You cant help me out with this? I thought you were the guy. I guess I'll just keep trying and making sure i dont have any cold solder joints and then when I blow my CPU I can go buy an amazing replacement CPU called the 'pinball mind' from flippers.com, right Ken? Thanks a million.

Thanks for your PM BigAl, but it's as I said that schematic is dead wrong. It's all good except when you get to the pinouts of both the 78L18 and the 78M05. Youd never lay a cap across the Vin and Vout of a regulator. When you switch both pairs of pins 2 and 3 on the schematic is when you get the proper voltages. No offense and all but I would expect experienced repairmen to see and make known that error. Once I made that adjustment she fired up right. Captain Fantastic and I haven't looked back since. Now I'm just going through cleaning all the contacts, pins and moles wires and just doing my best to shop the ol' Captain out. I wonder how long and how many of the pins with these series 2 psu's have been jacked up and left unrepaired and put out to pasture do to no one correcting these power supply schematics. Pins turned to paperweights. It's a shame.

I hear ya Ken, and I as well as the rest of the pinball community thank you for your contribution. Anyone who tries to hold someone else accountable or responsible for what they read and failed to verify on their own before attempting on their own property, be it pinball machine or otherwise, is a damn fool. However, with a name like pinWIKI and the fact that what you posted appears to be scanned from an authentic Bally document, some might consider the information to be more credible. At the end of the day tho, no matter what, it's all still just 'something u read on the internet'. Perhaps the page should be edited to include the corrections. After all, that's what this whole thing is about right, sharing the knowledge and lessons we may have learned the hard way so others dont have to?

Or not.