(Topic ID: 130572)

Bally BlackJack help needed

By vetteguy112233

8 years ago


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J2 to J2 on solenoid board and J3 on MPU.png
bally blackjack schematic.png
1434384957775.jpg
1434384935277.jpg
1434384909689.jpg

#1 8 years ago

I bought this Blackjack game non working. I replaced the power board with a Rotten Dog board and that didn't fix really help my problem.

It keeps popping fuse F4 on my powerboard. I've discovered that if I unplug connector J2 on the AS-2518-22 board, it no longer pops the fuse. My chimes don't work (which is what I think this J2 connector controls). My flippers do not work and my LCD screens do not work. I've never seen or heard any of these things work, so I'm not sure if it's because I have J2 unplugged or if I have multiple problems.

My LED flashes once and then 6 times and I hear 1 popper fire right after the 6th flash. I believe I have multiple problems and am not sure where to start.

Also on my coin door there is a broken push button switch, which I can poke with a pen, but it doesn't do anything. I actually have multiple questions about the coin door and a picture of a complete door would really help. I'm missing some sort of ground I assume at the top of the door. There is a solenoid that I am not sure what is for and a random switch. I've added pix of these.

This is the solid state version of the game.

Please help! Thank you in advance.

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#2 8 years ago

Quite a few things to address there. A simple one to answer is what the coil on the coin door is. That's a coin lockout relay. It's meant to keep you from putting money in the game when it's off, permanently tilted, or otherwise not ready for you to do so.

Let's work on your F4 fuse problem before anything else, though. J2 does provide ground returns for your flippers, so that'd be why they're not working. It's also appears to power the chimes, and also makes the test switch on the coin door work. And it effects the strobe on the MPU, which might explain the lack of displays.

Generally a fuse will blow because something is shorted. I'd check the coils on the chimes, first. They should read very low ohms between each lug, but not a dead short. If you can disconnect the chime box separately, I'd try unhooking it and see if the fuse blows.

If it's not the chimes, check your general illumination to make sure no light bulbs or light sockets are shorted. Also, that coin lockout relay and coin switches shouldn't be shorted either.

When J2 is plugged in you should be able to press the test switch in the coin door and go through diagnostics, seeing all the lights blink, all the coils fire, switches work, etc.

bally blackjack schematic.pngbally blackjack schematic.png
This schematic shows the F4 fuse, the rectifier, and the J2 connector on the rectifier/power board.

J2 to J2 on solenoid board and J3 on MPU.pngJ2 to J2 on solenoid board and J3 on MPU.png
This shows where the J2 connector pins run off to on the solenoid and MPU boards.

#3 8 years ago

Every single solenoid has a diode wired between the terminals. Do I have to remove this?

#4 8 years ago

No, they should all have diodes wired between them. They keep the collapse of the electromagnetic field when the coil turns off from going back up the line and damaging the MPU. You'd actually want to make sure they're all there and in working order.

#5 8 years ago

Joe, is there any chance I can call you?

#6 8 years ago

Nevermind, you helped me find a bad solenoid in the main chime box. I cut the wires and it worked just fine for about 2 minutes and popped fuse F4 again.

#7 8 years ago

The other 3 solenoids measure 56 ohms and the burnt one is obviously open. How's do I go about finding what popped it after playing for a few minutes? Oh and none of the lcd screens were working either.

#8 8 years ago

I have a bit of phone anxiety, but I'll gladly help any way I can on here.

So when it started working for a couple minutes, did the fuse blow when something happened (pop bumper fired, flipper pressed, etc.) or was it just sitting idle?

#9 8 years ago

I understand the phone anxiety, sometimes it's easier, but I really do appreciate your help. It's hard to say what exactly the machine was doing. It was my last fuse, but that might be my problem, I was using a 250v 2A fuse, which I believe should be a 5A fuse, is this correct?. I'll have to get more of the correct fuses and really pay attention to what happens when it pops.

#10 8 years ago

Right, it should be a 5A. That could definitely explain it blowing after a couple minutes of play. Two amps versus five amps is a big difference. Just putting in the right fuse may fix that part of it.

The displays may not be working for a few different reasons. It could be a cabling issue somewhere back from the displays. We can try to trace that once the game is working a bit more stably. There is a high voltage section on the driver board that often needs to be rebuilt to get the displays functioning properly. There are a couple large caps there that dry out and need to be replaced. There's also a fuse there that could be blown, you might start with that. It's a really short, non-standard size fuse. You can move the fuse clip up a hole and install a regular size fuse for future ease of replacement.

Here's a picture of the high voltage section, with the fuse labeled: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/blyhv1.jpg

Oh, just for the sake of speaking the same language, these games use charged gas displays, rather than LCDs. They have thin layers of Neon gas in them that get excited and glow when you run high voltage through them. They're fairly fragile and they wear out over time due to gas escaping from them.

#11 8 years ago

I just checked the fuse and it's good.

#12 8 years ago

Today I installed the correct size fuse and so far it hasn't popped a fuse. My 3 boys and I played 2 full rounds and so far all is good. Even the displays are working now, which doesn't make sense, but hey I'll take it. Thank you so much for your help. Now it's time to replace the bulbs that are burnt. Do you know how to make the machine light everything for a bulb check?

One of the first things I did was buy a rubber kit, so I'm almost done with this thing.

#13 8 years ago

That's great news! Especially glad to hear the displays are working now.

If you can get the test switch in the front to close, the game should go into test mode. Each time you press it it should go through a different part of the test. One part is a light test where it should blink all the computer controlled lights. When you're done with the tests just turn the game off and back on to get out of test mode.

#14 8 years ago

I'll give it a shot, thanks again for everything

#15 8 years ago

It may behoove you to get a manual. It will explain the self test modes,(lamp,display,solenoid,switch,etc.
You can download one for free at the IPDB.

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