I'd start by taking a look at the Tilt relay. Is it pulled in all the time? If so, there are 3 things that power it on the schematic - the tilt switches, the inertia tilt and a timer unit switch. I'd also check the shutter motor cam switches 4a and 4c and shutter motor carryover cam 1b.

Shutter motor switches can often get tweaked if the playfield isn't lifted carefully.

Make sure there are 8 balls in the game.....not 7

Most guys disable the 'anti-cheat relay'........ by unsoldering the hot coil lead, and wedging the latching arm ON.
I also undo the tilt bob mechanism so the Bingo does tilt....... but that's me!
The shutter mechanism is a Big 'PITA'...... I have intermittent problems all the time.
I would close the shutter by hand, and see if you can play a full game. The switch setting on the shutter cams are
always a problem to set correctly.
*** This is how the shutter should close. Your Timer unit may not be stepping Up. See diagram below.

ScreenHunter_10 Jan. 10 17.10 (resized).jpg

The anti-cheat is operating as expected - it should be able to latch if there are no replays on the register. It is initially powered through the start relay, which pulls in with your first coin. If you don't cut the power to the game, then the anti-cheat will remain powered and latched throughout gameplay.

So that behavior, at least, is normal.

For your shutter motor constantly running - it does sound like it's dropping to tilt (but that's normal on first power up).

Your shutter motor will open when the first coin is dropped, and remain open until your first ball leaves the gate. There are a few switches to check on the shutter and under the playfield.

First, the switch closest to the shutter motor is the motor runout switch. If that never finds 'home' then the shutter will never stop moving. Another is the set of switches actuated by the shutter board itself on the bottom right side of the playfield. If they are not fully changing state, or the metal arm has become a bit loose, then the shutter will not sense that it is fully open or closed.

I would suspect those first as the other tilt-like behaviors sound normal.

Also:

This is absolutely true. You may have unintentionally borked up some switches just lifting the playfield or setting it down.

***** I also undo the tilt bob mechanism so the Bingo does tilt....... but that's me! *********
Should say : " so the Bingo doesn't tilt "
I don't want to ruin a big game by Tiliting my own Bingo........ LoL.

Timer Unit stepper.....
1. I would verify this unit is working correctly. Clean it and verify it steps-up and resets by hand.
2. Verify it is being energized during game play.
3. Ball Lift cam switch 2a ( E7) energizes Timer unit coil ( A8).

30V at anti-cheat is incorrect. That is tied to EB trip relay #1 and CU cam 5 switch C (third from the bottom).

If you don't have 50V through that circuit, your anti-cheat will not latch.

You trip bank continuously resetting is because your shutter motor keeps opening. That hits switch 3B on the shutter which will fire the reset coil on the bank.

Timer unit comes into play when it lifts the first ball. I believe your problem is before the timer unit.

Your start relay should not be holding in in normal operation. That might be caused by a stuck switch in the replay reset relay (in the same area as the start and anti-cheat).

Sorry for the delay in responding, I must've forgotten to hit submit!!

30V at anti-cheat is incorrect. That is tied to EB trip relay #1 and CU cam 5 switch C (third from the bottom).
******************************************************************************************
Yes..... you should be reading close to 50VAC. across that coil.
I'm sure your 50VAC output from the transformer is ok, you can check it at the transformer.
@ see link below for measuring points...... I have a reading of 52VAC with an input voltage of 123VAC.
As stated above..... you may have a voltage drop at the E.B. trip relay#1 . It is a S.P.D.T. switch(L2) they can be
trouble. You may have a POOR connection there causing a voltage drop; that contact should be closed when
the relay is not energized.
Also check that the switch contact at Cu cam 5 is clean and making good contact.
*** I forgot to add...... verify that 10amp fuse is 100% good, and the fuse holder has a tight fit. a partially blown
fuse and a loose fuse holder will drive you batty.
https://bingo.cdyn.com/techno/readschem/schemblock.html

I wouldn't worry about the 30V on the anti-cheat. If you are just measuring across the terminals when the relay is unpowered, you will see "phantom voltage".  The wire 78-4 end of the coil isn't connected to anything, so your meter has no valid reference point to determine a voltage value and the tiny current flow induced by the meter will produce a reading.

if you want to check the anti-cheat closing circuit, manually lift switch stack 5 on the timer cams and it should power the relay. If it doesn't, you can measure the voltage across the coil while holding up the stack or wedging some folded paper under the stack. If less that 52V, you can probe the circuit up thru CU 5C and the two EB trip relay switches to find the bad connection.

showtime (at least some of them) has a circuit at schem I7 that will close the shutter if the selection feature unit is not reset and the anti-cheat relay is not powered. If the selection feature unit open at zero switch is not opening (unit not resetting, zero switch stuck closed) and the anti-cheat is not powered, it's normal for the shutter to close.

if the start relay is staying powered because the timer cams aren't spinning, it's normal for the shutter to open.

so, check the selection feature unit is resetting all the way and the switch is open at reset. That should stop the shutter from closing. Then deal with why the timer cams index coil isn't powering...a switch on those cams powers the anti-cheat. If the mixer latch coil isn't powering either, the problem is not the coils.

don't forget to check the plug connections between head and cabinet/playfield - ideally unplug the game from the wall, yank the plugs, clean off the black crud from the inside/outside sections of the pins (the pins only contact the sockets in a couple spots), and squeeze along the length of the sockets hard between thumb and finger to bend in the tabs a little. You want plug insertion to require a bit of oomph to ensure a reliable connection.

Ha! Left out the timer cam index switches because 'surely' those weren't the problem. Thanks @baldtwit!

And regarding the plugs - yet another assumption on my part. Be sure to follow the above advice all the way through and you will find your problem.

Good job getting your bingo back up and running.
Try this link for your backglass.

http://www.coos.net/bingo_e/

Wow - with Mirror lines too !

Coos is also a great site just to look at all the great looking machines !