When I was young and living along the Carolina coast (USA) I would trade in pop bottles to get nickels to play the bingo games in the beach bars before they opened. The Golden Gate was my favorite. I grew older and the bingo games disappeared (Hey, that's gambling and not legal here!). A year or so ago I saw a bally bingo game for sale. I went to see it and figured all the pieces were there and took it home. It is in my garage and I am ready to begin restoration. I am guessing I have a lot to learn. By joining this forum I am beginning my education. I have a lot of questions.

Thanks for welcoming me.

Here is how it sits in the garage. Not a pretty sight; however, I have a vision to have it up and playing. So let the project begin!! I have (sandwiched in corrugated cardboard) the glass. Both the piece that covers the playing field and the back glass. They look in good condition. It appears the someone along the way put a new bottom on and fabricated a new end where the coin door is (I think a conversion made this game take quarters). I will begin this project with a few little steps:

1) To begin, I will clean out the cobwebs and dust out the machine. Would I just use a blower? I will read any and all threads on cleaning the electrical components. I hope this can be done without disassembling too much.
2) Then I noticed that the electrical cord is missing. I have seen where some are concerned with grounding the machine. I will place a cord on order from one of the parts suppliers.
3) I thought that in order to know what works and what doesn't, I should start with all fresh light bulbs. #47 and #96 (if I am reading the markings correctly) populate the machine now. Is there a map that tells me how many of what bulb goes where? I read that #44 is the preferred bulb from the manufacture; however, the #47s are cooler. Some of the #96s look like they have been painted red. Do I just count the bulbs of each shape and then begin swapping them out?
4) Before I go too far, I will address some of the external cosmetics. On line I have found some examples of the Laguna Beach machines. Some have more colors, some have less. My boxes are flaking and I want to stabilize/repaint to an authentic motif.

Well, that is where I am headed. Please give your advice and suggestions. This is my first time to this dance. I will add more images as I uncover and explore.

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Thanks for the suggestion (and instructions) for installing a power cord. I will have that at the ready in the morning. Schematics and manuals will be ordered.

This machine WILL be for home use. Your suggestions on the light bulbs (I will be looking for the 55's). I hadn't dug into the bulbs behind the bingo grid. I will look for those that have the 'greater pop'. (1458 or 1464's) Here is an image of the bulbs I called #96s. As you can see, some are painted (?) red. Will I need to paint bulbs red.. and if so, with what?

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Good inputs (I have started a chart to identify what SHOULD go where).

My thought was to replace all the lamps because I was unsure of what worked and what didn't. By replacing all the lamps, I wold be sure that it was NOT the lamp that was a problem. Remember I am new to this. I started looking at bulbs last night and found that some of them were real beggars to get out of the bayonet sockets. I saw that there is a tool that can help. WHat is it called and where can I find one?

Off to get an extension cord.

Moving the machine around will be a challenge. Suggestions?? I thought I saw a motor cycle lift under one machine.

Phew...

After much reading and searching for documents, I have decided that I need to assemble this machine to be sure I have all the parts. One example of my learning....I need more balls! I have five, the machine requires eight to work properly.

I have purchased casters to make moving the machine easier, began cleaning an area I can dedicate to this effort, printed the schematic (2 x 6 ft.) so I can read it, and obtained a copy of Pinball Troubleshooting by Russ Jensen, read and re-read (as suggested) Restoring Arcade and Pinball Games. I have made donations and contributed to keep sites up and running. I will need a source for HELP! I have a copy of the Bally Laguna Beach Operating Instructions and Parts Catalog.

Thank you for all your encouragement. I understand, as Jensen says, "The bingo games are by far the most complex of any electro-mechanical games ever devised."

...and so the adventure begins

Harbor Freight is having a sale this weekend. I have been muscling by Laguna Beach parts around and I am considering the 500 lb. hydraulic table cart. I have read the modifications to it thread and ...

Will it handle a bingo machine?

Spent the day cleaning my work spot in the garage. Lights are coming. Built a workbench for the project (a place to keep all the stuff together). Called Harbor Freight to put a hold on the lift (25% off tomorrow). I think that I have done all I can ... no more stalling. It is time to begin.

Loving it!

Got the lift..assembled the lift and pulled the machine out to where I can work on it. Opened the box of stuff that came with the machine and found two keys. Opened the coin door and the head. Wow.. spider webs. Carefully vacuumed the webs and dust from everywhere I could reach. Smiling, I took some pics and began gathering questions. I noticed that the coin door end of the machine has been rebuilt but not painted. I also see that the bottom of the box has been replaced. I was glad to see that some of the things still have labels. When I opened the coin door, I saw a box of Watman's Sampler. No candies. This must have been used as a coin box (?). I did find some more balls in the bottom. I have the required eight now. I haven't unwrapped the glass yet.

Here are some images of what I found so far:

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I don't know what a trough swith cover/plate looks like! Is it one of these?

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Since my coin box is an old cardboard candy box (Watman's Sampler) I am not worried about snagging anything. Are coin boxes available anywhere (Maybe someone has an extra laying around)? I don't even know what one looks like....

... you got to love the world wide web.

Looking to see and learn what I didn't know, I found these two images. I can understand the importance of a trough switch cover.

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Looks like the coin box is a "tin box" that fits so that the coins fall into it. It also needs to be the right size for easy removal and dumping.

The Laguna Beach I have seems to be a quarter machine. Does that mean that someone changed it? (5 plays for .25)

I do remember feeding a machine (as a youth) nickels. That is what the return on a pop bottle was.

Is there reason to revert? In looking for cards for the play field, 5 an 10 cents seems to be what is available. What is involved before I change all my quarters to dimes or nickels?

I took a close look at the machines on Bingo Row in York looking for legs like those on my machine (see post #34). I didn't see any. My machine seems to be in a cradle welded between the legs. Is this a oddity? This cradle seems in good shape and appears to have been nicely restored/painted. No signs of rust.

Working to get my machine out of the cradle to begin paint restoration of the coin door. Thanks to the lift, I think I can raise the machine out of the cradle just high enough to do the painting. Thanks to images on the web I think I know what it is suppose to look like.

I went to Coos' site originally wondering about artwork and saw a video on how he cleans the inside of a bingo machine. Wow! Sorbo Blue Wonder, Magic Sprap, and hot water. Really?

Is this a recomended process...and if so, what is an equivalent all purpose cleaner available in the US?

I am back to lightbulbs.... 47s and 55s to begin with. The red 55s... has anyone tried coloring them with a red Sharpie? Acrylic paint has been suggested. I am also shopping for bulbs in quantities. Testing them has revealed that I don't think I need to replace them ALL.

What did you do on your Friday afternoon? Well I listened to a wise pinball restorer and decided I have asked enough (not all) questions and it was time to begin.

I started cleaning the exterior of the game. Tar from cigarette smoke is some nasty sticky stuff. Paint chipping away and I recognized that some sprucing up would help my enthusiasm. First I made a tool to help remove the bulbs in the light board. Some of the bulbs separated glass from brass requiring pliers to completely remove. As I went, I made a chart identifying bulb type and locations. Next I will test them all and clean them up to be reinstalled.

After wiping down and using a stiff bristled brush to flake off all loose paint, I applied two coats of a white primer. First coat looked yellow from tar residue. It was like painting 85 little rooms - walls and floors. I don't have spraying equipment so I did it with a brush. A small brush being careful not to get paint into the lightbulb sockets. What a difference a little paint can make.

I will trace the artwork (using old clothes patterns) that is on the machine and begin the search for the proper paint. Spray cans will be used. Stencils will be made from matboard (it would be ideal if the stuff came in 48 x whatever... 42 x is just a little short). The areas that are sand on the beach appear to be speckled. The other colors (red, white and blue) will be easier to match. The coin door pattern will be made up from images of Laguna Beach machines I have seen on the web.

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... so I was facing the task of checking 100 + little light bulb that were in various states of decay and corrosion. How can this be done the cleanest (easiest) way? Each bulb needed to have contact surfaces cleaned to insure good contact both by the multi-meter probes and when re-installed into the games light sockets. These bulbs look old and worn but are not necessarily bad.

First thought was to use a soft wire wheel and turn each bulb over its spinning surface. Before I tried it I counted my fingers and thought ....no.

Here is what I did: I am a horologist (not whorologist) and use a ultrasonic cleaner to clean watch and clock parts. A water based ammonia cleaning solution in the tank and I gathered a few of each bulb. After testing them to insure that they were good, I dropped them into the ultrasonic cleaner for five minutes. Interesting thing...47s sink, 55s float. Just enough gas in the larger bulb. After I removed them from the cleaner I re-tested them. All were still good. After a warm water rinse they were set aside looking all shiny and new. When I do the remainder or the bulbs I will know good from bad. I know I will be purchasing new bulbs for those that were missing or came apart when I removed them from their sockets. This process will give me some confidence that the bulbs I am reusing are good. Those little bulbs can add up ($) if I were to replace them all.

Am I the first to try this trick? Remember, this is my first restoration project and I don't really know how EVERYONE does it. I am listening, reading, and figuring it out as I go. Hope this helps others.

How I made the #55s into RED #55s;

1. After cleaning and checking to insure that the bulbs were good, I wiped them down with alcohol (not my good bourbon, just some 91% rubbing).
2. I had some Folkart Enamels (WalMart)- lipstick red - acrylic paint. Good color but too thick. I thinned the paint with water (60/40) and dipped the bulbs.
3. Fabricated a stand to hold the dipped bulbs from an scrap of wood (3/8" holes). Allowed the bulbs to dry two hours (twice the recommendation on the label)
4. Placed holder and bulbs in the oven. When the temperature reached 350 degrees, I set the timer for 30 minutes. At the bell I turned the oven off and the bulbs slowly cooled as the oven cooled.
5. Paint on the brass of the bulbs easily scrapped off.
6. All bulbs tested good.

Not too thick - not too thin. I believe they will be just right.

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Terry1,

This paint is a water based acrylic. In the craft department at the "Evil Empire" (Walmart) there are a variety of 2 oz products. If you need an oil base maybe you can find one. I have done the baking of this product and it seems to hold up well.

Making note to self: Remember you have this when you get to the left and right buttons.

Needed a trip to CA.. and a few sssions to relax before returning to my Laguna Beach restoration. The only thing that would make this better is if I was in Laguna Beach. Oceanside, CA works good.

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After much searching and questioning...I have still more to do before I repaint my Laguna Beach. The latest is I figure that I will need 15 stencils. I have checked with Coos and he has never done a Laguna Beach. I talked with a guy in a shop that makes (cut) vinyl signs. He has done logos for street clock faces for me in the past. He said if I take a straight on picture (jpeg) and tell him the dimensions of the areas the stencil will cover, he can make the stencils. I have a piece of the vinyl to test to see if it could be peeled off after painting. He suggested peeling right after painting (spray or roller) and that a heat gun might help the vinyl release without damaging what has already been painted. I will do some testing. I also investigated several products available from a art supply store. They seems to release well; however, I would have to do the cutting. Nice thing is that they are clear which would help when lining things up. The search goes on....

While I am scratching my head over the painting project, I have decided to begin work on the play field. My plan is to take the play field out of the cabinet, remove everything from the top surface, remove old wax etc. with Naphtha, polish with Novus 2, wax and then clean all the items and reinstall them onto the play field. I have new rubber rings to install and I have all the springs. I have new balls (my wife has made a BIG joke about that).

Has anyone ever used Bowling Alley wax on their play field? I have been researching Carnauba waxes. Some are "enriched with", some contain cleaners, some have a additives. In searching this forum, it seems that folks are spraying automotive clear coat on their play fields. Me. I am just looking for the hardest wax I can find to reduce the time between reapplications.

Enough rambling for one morning...any more and I will have to start a blog.

Comments and assistance please.

I had some time between ...shopping (phew) and I started taking the playfield apart. At this point, being my first restoration, I have a few questions:

1. Some of the plastic posts that hold the o-rings (bumpers?) are red and some are yellow. From what I can tell, they are the same size. Does it matter?
2. There are steel pins in the play field. Some are bent and some are missing (matching right side to left, I found the holes they belong in. I want to remove and reinstall them in the process. Are these just pressed into and can be pulled out the play field?
3. The posts that hold the springs along the sides and bottom of the play field should be removed and replaced in the process. Are they pressed in and pulled out?
4. The fender springs in front of the lamps, pressed in and pulled out? ( I figured out how to get the plastic shields off the lamps)

Once the play field has had ALL the stuff removed from it I will vacuum and then clean with naphtha. There are places where the paint has been worn to the wood. The ball track is bare. Should I consider a clear coat of poly or some other protective clear finish or just wax?

Some images:

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And the adventure goes on.... Hey, I found the "For Amusement Only" label!

I removed all the posts, pins and springs from the top side of the play field by first removing everything from the bottom and then using just undersized punches. No additional damage to the play field. Wow what a difference a little warm water on a rag wipe down makes. Next I will wipe down the play field with naphtha, detail clean and ready it for a coat or two of Varathane diamond wood finish ( I read about this at http://www.pinrepair.com under play field touch up). There are places where the original finish has been worn through to the wood. Still debating between semi and gloss. After days of drying I will be waxing. Meanwhile I will be shopping for replacement inserts and roll over buttons (red and yellow) and making sure I have the correct rubber. While I am at it, I will be rebuilding the shooter.

While removing everything from the bottom of the play field, I came across something that didn't look 'original'. It appears to be a resister added to the switch that is where the ball is first pushed into the shooting lane. You know where the little wire comes through the play field !?! (my nomenclature is improving but still lacking). I will post an image.

Thanks for the tip about the rubber replacement rings and reassembly.

One final question for today: What is the little tab (#147) glued to the top of the play field? Is this a serial number or maybe a tax tag? (oops, that was two questions)

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I have searched my schematic and found the resistor ...helps to know the switch name too.

There is laminate over the exposed wooden area. Think it needs to be removed? If I remove it.... I guess I can fabricate any new pieces that I find trashed.

All the score cards are metal. Know where I can find a new "For Amusement Only" file?

The garage is where I am working. It is half underground and never sees temps below maybe 40 degrees. This is the only place I have to work. When there I do run a heater that keeps the worker in long sleeves and comfortable. the back glass (BG?)is stored in a closet inside. I haven't removed it from the double layered cardboard sleeve that it was transported in. Just trust that it is in good shape.

Well it was a year..and maybe more. A project that I enjoyed. Everyone at Pinside was a big help (cause the new guy had a lot of questions). Recommended suppliers were right on time.

So, last night I was dropping nickels and thought that I hadn't posted an image of the end results. Here it is. Still bothered by a few bulbs that won't stay lit. I really enjoy sharing this machine with friends and anyone that has a nickel.

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Thanks for the tip.. and the offer for a drink. The trouble I am having is that the bulb pop..get blown out.

While playing last night, the ball lifter began lifting two balls. I figure it is the switch under where the balls pop up. The wire poking through the playfield seems to be ok...so I guess I will slide the class off, lift the playfield and check that the switch is doing it's thing.

As Rosanna Dana use to say, "If it isn't one thing, it is something else."

Working through this project has given me the confidence to keep at it.

Hunting for a short...Thanks for the directions.

The ball lifting issue went like this: Turn the game on, drop a nickel, two balls lift. If you were to shoot those balls into the play field, no other balls lift. To proceed drop another nickel and the game begins again. Two balls up.

Recovered from a concert on Tuesday night...Folk Uke opened for X. When your older your recovery time is longer.