Bally Bingo - Laguna Beach

By KYBingo

4 months ago


  • 63 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by bingopodcast
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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    There are 63 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 63 days ago

    I've never done that, and I'm not sure if anyone else has either, but it's certainly interesting!

    #52 63 days ago
    Quoted from KYBingo:

    I went to Coos' site originally wondering about artwork and saw a video on how he cleans the inside of a bingo machine. Wow! Sorbo Blue Wonder, Magic Sprap, and hot water. Really?
    Is this a recomended process...and if so, what is an equivalent all purpose cleaner available in the US?

    IMO, cleaning the inside of a bingo in that is waaaaaaay overkill. But hey, it works for him, and that's great!

    I can see doing this if I had a side business of high-end bingo restoration in which my clients expected a near-factory restoration. But for me and all other collectors that I have met, none have cleaned the inside of a bingo in this way.

    #53 63 days ago
    Quoted from KYBingo:

    I went to Coos' site originally wondering about artwork and saw a video on how he cleans the inside of a bingo machine. Wow! Sorbo Blue Wonder, Magic Sprap, and hot water. Really?
    Is this a recomended process...and if so, what is an equivalent all purpose cleaner available in the US?

    here is a thread with the video linked where we discussed the merits 3 years ago of the Dutch guys bingo cleaning method verses what we will do in the States.
    Regarding the cleaning material

    I contacted the guys in the Netherlands 'Frans and Coos' a few years ago. They both have different internet sites with English translations. I asked them what is the Magic spray and the Sorbo Blue Wonder made of?

    Frans answered as follows;
    "The problem with the magic stuff and the Sorbo is that the first product is no longer for sale as it was too aggressive and Sorbo is just an ordinary Dutch detergent, used for all kinds in the housekeeping. We bought the Magic Stuff in big cans and as far as we know the staple is a sodium hydroxide solution. So you can try to dissolve tablets of the dishwasher as those are pretty aggressive. But all you need is a strong degreaser which will do the job and I am sure there are a lot of those over in the USA."

    Also Frans site is;

    Possibly use 'Purple power at a 50/50 strength instead of the magic spray which I suspect is a drain cleaner.

    1 week later
    #54 54 days ago

    I am back to lightbulbs.... 47s and 55s to begin with. The red 55s... has anyone tried coloring them with a red Sharpie? Acrylic paint has been suggested. I am also shopping for bulbs in quantities. Testing them has revealed that I don't think I need to replace them ALL.

    What did you do on your Friday afternoon? Well I listened to a wise pinball restorer and decided I have asked enough (not all) questions and it was time to begin.

    I started cleaning the exterior of the game. Tar from cigarette smoke is some nasty sticky stuff. Paint chipping away and I recognized that some sprucing up would help my enthusiasm. First I made a tool to help remove the bulbs in the light board. Some of the bulbs separated glass from brass requiring pliers to completely remove. As I went, I made a chart identifying bulb type and locations. Next I will test them all and clean them up to be reinstalled.

    After wiping down and using a stiff bristled brush to flake off all loose paint, I applied two coats of a white primer. First coat looked yellow from tar residue. It was like painting 85 little rooms - walls and floors. I don't have spraying equipment so I did it with a brush. A small brush being careful not to get paint into the lightbulb sockets. What a difference a little paint can make.

    I will trace the artwork (using old clothes patterns) that is on the machine and begin the search for the proper paint. Spray cans will be used. Stencils will be made from matboard (it would be ideal if the stuff came in 48 x whatever... 42 x is just a little short). The areas that are sand on the beach appear to be speckled. The other colors (red, white and blue) will be easier to match. The coin door pattern will be made up from images of Laguna Beach machines I have seen on the web.

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    #55 54 days ago

    Red bulbs - I was wanting to do the same thing & bought a small set of Americana gloss enamels. Label states that this is an opaque paint for glass & ceramics. Directions on the bottle show that you clean the surface with alcohol, paint, then let dry for 4 days, then bake in a 325-deg non pre-heated oven for 30 min, then let cool with oven door open.
    My project got stalled & I have yet to try it, but it sounds like this would be just the ticket.
    I tried coating the bulb with a red sharpie & it worked, but the light was too intense. You really want a painted bulb. link »

    Please let us know if you try it & how well it works!

    #56 53 days ago

    ... so I was facing the task of checking 100 + little light bulb that were in various states of decay and corrosion. How can this be done the cleanest (easiest) way? Each bulb needed to have contact surfaces cleaned to insure good contact both by the multi-meter probes and when re-installed into the games light sockets. These bulbs look old and worn but are not necessarily bad.

    First thought was to use a soft wire wheel and turn each bulb over its spinning surface. Before I tried it I counted my fingers and thought

    Here is what I did: I am a horologist (not whorologist) and use a ultrasonic cleaner to clean watch and clock parts. A water based ammonia cleaning solution in the tank and I gathered a few of each bulb. After testing them to insure that they were good, I dropped them into the ultrasonic cleaner for five minutes. Interesting thing...47s sink, 55s float. Just enough gas in the larger bulb. After I removed them from the cleaner I re-tested them. All were still good. After a warm water rinse they were set aside looking all shiny and new. When I do the remainder or the bulbs I will know good from bad. I know I will be purchasing new bulbs for those that were missing or came apart when I removed them from their sockets. This process will give me some confidence that the bulbs I am reusing are good. Those little bulbs can add up ($) if I were to replace them all.

    Am I the first to try this trick? Remember, this is my first restoration project and I don't really know how EVERYONE does it. I am listening, reading, and figuring it out as I go. Hope this helps others.

    #57 52 days ago

    How I made the #55s into RED #55s;

    1. After cleaning and checking to insure that the bulbs were good, I wiped them down with alcohol (not my good bourbon, just some 91% rubbing).
    2. I had some Folkart Enamels (WalMart)- lipstick red - acrylic paint. Good color but too thick. I thinned the paint with water (60/40) and dipped the bulbs.
    3. Fabricated a stand to hold the dipped bulbs from an scrap of wood (3/8" holes). Allowed the bulbs to dry two hours (twice the recommendation on the label)
    4. Placed holder and bulbs in the oven. When the temperature reached 350 degrees, I set the timer for 30 minutes. At the bell I turned the oven off and the bulbs slowly cooled as the oven cooled.
    5. Paint on the brass of the bulbs easily scrapped off.
    6. All bulbs tested good.

    Not too thick - not too thin. I believe they will be just right.

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    #58 52 days ago

    That's looks like a good paint for my Left/Right arrows and "R" button
    Is it oil based?
    Terry K

    #59 52 days ago


    This paint is a water based acrylic. In the craft department at the "Evil Empire" (Walmart) there are a variety of 2 oz products. If you need an oil base maybe you can find one. I have done the baking of this product and it seems to hold up well.

    Making note to self: Remember you have this when you get to the left and right buttons.

    #60 50 days ago

    Fancy holder there ... i just poked holes in thee lamp box

    1 week later
    #61 43 days ago

    Needed a trip to CA.. and a few sssions to relax before returning to my Laguna Beach restoration. The only thing that would make this better is if I was in Laguna Beach. Oceanside, CA works good.


    1 month later
    #62 5 hours ago

    After much searching and questioning...I have still more to do before I repaint my Laguna Beach. The latest is I figure that I will need 15 stencils. I have checked with Coos and he has never done a Laguna Beach. I talked with a guy in a shop that makes (cut) vinyl signs. He has done logos for street clock faces for me in the past. He said if I take a straight on picture (jpeg) and tell him the dimensions of the areas the stencil will cover, he can make the stencils. I have a piece of the vinyl to test to see if it could be peeled off after painting. He suggested peeling right after painting (spray or roller) and that a heat gun might help the vinyl release without damaging what has already been painted. I will do some testing. I also investigated several products available from a art supply store. They seems to release well; however, I would have to do the cutting. Nice thing is that they are clear which would help when lining things up. The search goes on....

    While I am scratching my head over the painting project, I have decided to begin work on the play field. My plan is to take the play field out of the cabinet, remove everything from the top surface, remove old wax etc. with Naphtha, polish with Novus 2, wax and then clean all the items and reinstall them onto the play field. I have new rubber rings to install and I have all the springs. I have new balls (my wife has made a BIG joke about that).

    Has anyone ever used Bowling Alley wax on their play field? I have been researching Carnauba waxes. Some are "enriched with", some contain cleaners, some have a additives. In searching this forum, it seems that folks are spraying automotive clear coat on their play fields. Me. I am just looking for the hardest wax I can find to reduce the time between reapplications.

    Enough rambling for one morning...any more and I will have to start a blog.

    Comments and assistance please.

    #63 5 hours ago

    Stencils - sticky vinyl will give you a non-factory straight line appearance. Will look sharp with no overspray.

    I have heard from a few different restoration guys of different ways to approximate the overspray effect - I like posterboard, as it is -cheap- and you can weigh it down more or less exactly the way that you want. Another tool is thick foamcore - it is supposed to absorb exactly enough of the overspray, leaving you with that slight mist outside of the stenciled area. Easier to weigh down, too. I've seen results of the latter and they are very impressive. I used posterboard as it was easier to work with on the cutting side. (Fresh blades, xacto). You get a little more overspray with posterboard.

    Playfield - your plan sounds just fine - wax is really a matter of personal preference. I've tried several different types and nothing made an appreciable difference. Johnson's paste wax does great and lasts for a long time with no ill effects. A severely planked playfield will grab little bits of whatever wax, but Millwax seems to do better on that type of surface.

    Clearcoat - I am not a fan on a game that did not have automotive-style clear from the factory (like any EM). On a bingo, I think it would be a nightmare. The ball basically skates across the surface and is impossible to control. Your mileage (and skill at playing) may vary there.

    Bowling Allex wax? Interesting thought - never tried!

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