Bally Bingo - Laguna Beach


By KYBingo

4 months ago


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  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by bingopodcast
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    There are 63 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 4 months ago

    When I was young and living along the Carolina coast (USA) I would trade in pop bottles to get nickels to play the bingo games in the beach bars before they opened. The Golden Gate was my favorite. I grew older and the bingo games disappeared (Hey, that's gambling and not legal here!). A year or so ago I saw a bally bingo game for sale. I went to see it and figured all the pieces were there and took it home. It is in my garage and I am ready to begin restoration. I am guessing I have a lot to learn. By joining this forum I am beginning my education. I have a lot of questions.

    Thanks for welcoming me.

    #2 4 months ago

    Welcome! Feel free to ask away, happy to help.

    #3 4 months ago

    Glad to have you here! Do you have any photos of how it sits now so we can see what you're up against?

    #4 4 months ago

    Welcome! You have just crossed over into... Wait, wrong game!

    But prepare for a challenge, a massive learning experience, and good deal of fun!
    The BINGO is a unique beast unto itself. The very reason that I tracked down mine. And a story not too unlike yours!

    #5 4 months ago

    Nice find...Can you post some pictures?

    #6 4 months ago

    welcome aboard

    #7 4 months ago

    I have two lagunas for parts.

    #8 4 months ago

    How the heck did you get in a beach bar before it opened? I never had that kind of luck.

    #9 4 months ago

    I've got a mint reproduction Laguna Beach backglass if you need one.

    #10 4 months ago

    Here is how it sits in the garage. Not a pretty sight; however, I have a vision to have it up and playing. So let the project begin!! I have (sandwiched in corrugated cardboard) the glass. Both the piece that covers the playing field and the back glass. They look in good condition. It appears the someone along the way put a new bottom on and fabricated a new end where the coin door is (I think a conversion made this game take quarters). I will begin this project with a few little steps:

    1) To begin, I will clean out the cobwebs and dust out the machine. Would I just use a blower? I will read any and all threads on cleaning the electrical components. I hope this can be done without disassembling too much.
    2) Then I noticed that the electrical cord is missing. I have seen where some are concerned with grounding the machine. I will place a cord on order from one of the parts suppliers.
    3) I thought that in order to know what works and what doesn't, I should start with all fresh light bulbs. #47 and #96 (if I am reading the markings correctly) populate the machine now. Is there a map that tells me how many of what bulb goes where? I read that #44 is the preferred bulb from the manufacture; however, the #47s are cooler. Some of the #96s look like they have been painted red. Do I just count the bulbs of each shape and then begin swapping them out?
    4) Before I go too far, I will address some of the external cosmetics. On line I have found some examples of the Laguna Beach machines. Some have more colors, some have less. My boxes are flaking and I want to stabilize/repaint to an authentic motif.

    Well, that is where I am headed. Please give your advice and suggestions. This is my first time to this dance. I will add more images as I uncover and explore.

    20170803_084248 (resized).jpg

    #11 4 months ago

    You need red bulbs in the six positions on the upper left of the backboard. They will coincide with the "red letter game" available based on the green odds position (and if the "OK" feature is lit). I think some machines require 47's for these bulbs, but I'm not sure about Laguna. There may be a tag indicating this. Not sure about what a "96" bulb is, that doesn't sound right at all. 47's will work everywhere but they aren't as bright, for home use I usually switch out to 55's for more pop since the machine isn't running day and night. You'll need 1458's or 1464's for the numbers 1-25 on the bingo grid.

    Unless someone can correct me, I see no reason to go to the trouble of ordering a cord online, just go down to the store and pick up and extension cord and cut the end off. I've been working with these machines for 35 years and never had a problem.

    Schematics and manuals are available at https://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/laguna_beach/

    Good luck and welcome.

    #12 4 months ago

    I just learned something new myself - I thought all the red letter lamp circuits required a 47 for the clear bulb and a 55 for the red bulb. Laguna has no documentation stating this that I can find. That's very interesting, but I don't see why they would change that circuit and then change it back later. The 55 bulbs have a more rounded 'globe' appearance.

    #13 4 months ago

    Whoops, I had it backwards!

    #14 4 months ago

    Congrats! You picked one of the more difficult types of pinball machine
    to restore but you'll have a much better appreciation for them once
    you find out how they work.

    Lots of experienced folks here. The first thing to get is a schematic if
    you don't already have one. Before applying power suggest looking it
    over for broken or burned wires and other obvious problems.
    Steve

    #15 4 months ago

    Thanks for the suggestion (and instructions) for installing a power cord. I will have that at the ready in the morning. Schematics and manuals will be ordered.

    This machine WILL be for home use. Your suggestions on the light bulbs (I will be looking for the 55's). I hadn't dug into the bulbs behind the bingo grid. I will look for those that have the 'greater pop'. (1458 or 1464's) Here is an image of the bulbs I called #96s. As you can see, some are painted (?) red. Will I need to paint bulbs red.. and if so, with what?

    20170803_151841 (resized).jpg

    #16 4 months ago

    Those are 55s - for the red letter circuit, to clear up any confusion - you need a matching pair of bulbs behind each letter in the six letters of 'Laguna'.

    One red 55, and one clear 47. Any other combination of bulbs will not work.

    I use acrylic paint on the red letters - either painted with a broad brush to reduce strokes or dipped (even better). Give it a little time to dry (doesn't take long) and you'll be good to go.

    They used to make a red envelope for those 55s, but no longer sell them. Or at least I haven't found them the last 1000 times I've checked (with specialty bulb suppliers).

    #17 4 months ago

    For the grid, it doesn't make much difference. The 1464's are available new, the 1458's not sure but I don't think so. The schematic and manual are free for download at the site I linked. It's the go-to for all things bingo and run by a great guy. I have successfully used automotive engine paint to do the red coating, it's heat resistant and has worked for me. Right off hand i don't know of anywhere to buy the colored 55's. BTW, I wouldn't just automatically change out the 1458's, or whatever is there now. The bulbs are expensive and the newer ones aren't as reliable. I'd say if they work, leave them in after cleaning any crap off.

    #18 4 months ago
    Quoted from okorange:

    For the grid, it doesn't make much difference. The 1464's are available new, the 1458's not sure but I don't think so. The schematic and manual are free for download at the site I linked. It's the go-to for all things bingo and run by a great guy. I have successfully used automotive engine paint to do the red coating, it's heat resistant and has worked for me. Right off hand i don't know of anywhere to buy the colored 55's. BTW, I wouldn't just automatically change out the 1458's, or whatever is there now. The bulbs are expensive and the newer ones aren't as reliable. I'd say if they work, leave them in after cleaning any crap off.

    I do not recommend 55's for ANY application. Location or home use. Especially if you have an old bubbling or peeling backglass. Which most are. Way too hot. Sure, 55's are brighter. And they will be REALLY bright when they burn through the ink on your backglass!

    #19 4 months ago
    Quoted from DennisDodel:

    I do not recommend 55's for ANY application.

    Except the red letter circuit, right? Really trying not to confuse that one exception to the rest of the lamps.

    The bingo cards run at 17V (1464)

    Another opinion: I use 47s in my games at home in the other (flexible) 6V positions. Because any 6V bayonet lamp will do, you are free to choose what you will. 44s are about as hot as 55s, but even more concentrated. 47s are cooler, but less bright. 55s are about as bright as 44s, maybe a touch brighter due to construction.

    #20 4 months ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    Except the red letter circuit, right? Really trying not to confuse that one exception to the rest of the lamps.
    The bingo cards run at 17V (1464)
    Another opinion: I use 47s in my games at home in the other (flexible) 6V positions. Because any 6V bayonet lamp will do, you are free to choose what you will. 44s are about as hot as 55s, but even more concentrated. 47s are cooler, but less bright. 55s are about as bright as 44s, maybe a touch brighter due to construction.

    That is correct Nick. Only the red letter. I bought some red 44's a while back but have not tried them out yet. Might be too dim.

    #21 4 months ago

    Dennis, never had any problems. However, my games are used sparsely, so there's that. I know the arguments, though, and I agree with the assessment regarding backglasses that are weak to begin with.

    #22 4 months ago

    Good inputs (I have started a chart to identify what SHOULD go where).

    My thought was to replace all the lamps because I was unsure of what worked and what didn't. By replacing all the lamps, I wold be sure that it was NOT the lamp that was a problem. Remember I am new to this. I started looking at bulbs last night and found that some of them were real beggars to get out of the bayonet sockets. I saw that there is a tool that can help. WHat is it called and where can I find one?

    Off to get an extension cord.

    Moving the machine around will be a challenge. Suggestions?? I thought I saw a motor cycle lift under one machine.

    #23 4 months ago

    I use these type of three wheel skates once I have the machine together and need to work on it for any period of time. It is easy to turn and move the game with these skates.

    You might want to spend a few dollars extra and get the heavy duty type or the cheap ones will not last but a few minutes since a bingo is a heavy pinball machine.

    amazon.com link »

    2 weeks later
    #24 3 months ago

    Phew...

    After much reading and searching for documents, I have decided that I need to assemble this machine to be sure I have all the parts. One example of my learning....I need more balls! I have five, the machine requires eight to work properly.

    I have purchased casters to make moving the machine easier, began cleaning an area I can dedicate to this effort, printed the schematic (2 x 6 ft.) so I can read it, and obtained a copy of Pinball Troubleshooting by Russ Jensen, read and re-read (as suggested) Restoring Arcade and Pinball Games. I have made donations and contributed to keep sites up and running. I will need a source for HELP! I have a copy of the Bally Laguna Beach Operating Instructions and Parts Catalog.

    Thank you for all your encouragement. I understand, as Jensen says, "The bingo games are by far the most complex of any electro-mechanical games ever devised."

    ...and so the adventure begins

    #25 3 months ago

    I got an instructional video by " Richard Gerlitz",
    it is GREAT!!!
    Terry K

    #26 3 months ago

    Hey there KY,

    With Nick helping you, you are in good hands. He helped me get my High Flyer bingo working and I sure learned a lot in the process. Take lots of pictures as you clean. I will confess, the bingos are addictive, I now have a Dixieland and a Shoot-A-Line for some crazy reason. I am learning a lot more with those. The lights and cosmetics are of course just the tip of the iceberg. Great luck and I look forward to reading more about your bingo adventure.

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    #27 3 months ago

    Nice looking High Flyer in great condition and a sweet six card player with the 4 corners, super lines, red diagonals and double or nothing features. The EM six card players are my favorite bingos. They have a quick coin deposit and max limit which in turn makes for more playing time to try to score some in line wins, replays or free credits....

    Bally really stepped up in the 1970's with their six card bingo pinball machines. Too bad your game wasn't in a High Flyer cabinet with the planes on it. I always liked the Wall Street cabinet design to though which I think is supposed to be the New York skyline. Nice game and great player! Thanks for sharing.

    #28 3 months ago

    Harbor Freight is having a sale this weekend. I have been muscling by Laguna Beach parts around and I am considering the 500 lb. hydraulic table cart. I have read the modifications to it thread and ...

    Will it handle a bingo machine?

    #29 3 months ago

    I use the 500 lb cart. Yes, it will. It does not extend quite high enough to reach the top of the recess that holds the head on the cabinet, but it drastically reduces the amount of lifting needed.

    #30 3 months ago

    This is what I used. It fits nicely under the head,near the front, where the plywood edges are.
    Since the head is so heavy, and the front is easy to lift, I use this lift to move my Bikini
    machine around like a wheel barrel!!

    My pin lift (resized).jpg

    #31 3 months ago

    Correction on my previous post!!!
    I place my "lift" under the box, at the head end of my machine, NOT
    under the head!!!

    #32 3 months ago

    I have a Champion lift I got at one of the auto parts stores years ago. I finally got around to building up the table with wood so that when fully extended the head will slide right onto the cabinet. Let me tell you, this has saved my back. Whatever lift you get, I would consider doing this if it's not tall enough to get the head and cab apart or back together without strain.

    #33 3 months ago

    Spent the day cleaning my work spot in the garage. Lights are coming. Built a workbench for the project (a place to keep all the stuff together). Called Harbor Freight to put a hold on the lift (25% off tomorrow). I think that I have done all I can ... no more stalling. It is time to begin.

    Loving it!

    #34 3 months ago

    Got the lift..assembled the lift and pulled the machine out to where I can work on it. Opened the box of stuff that came with the machine and found two keys. Opened the coin door and the head. Wow.. spider webs. Carefully vacuumed the webs and dust from everywhere I could reach. Smiling, I took some pics and began gathering questions. I noticed that the coin door end of the machine has been rebuilt but not painted. I also see that the bottom of the box has been replaced. I was glad to see that some of the things still have labels. When I opened the coin door, I saw a box of Watman's Sampler. No candies. This must have been used as a coin box (?). I did find some more balls in the bottom. I have the required eight now. I haven't unwrapped the glass yet.

    Here are some images of what I found so far:

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    #35 3 months ago

    I see you are missing a trough switch cover/plate.
    I was missing one as well.
    I wanted to get one so the coin box would not bang into the switches!!
    Good luck. Lots of help on this site, BELIEVE ME!!!!
    Terry K

    #36 3 months ago

    I don't know what a trough swith cover/plate looks like! Is it one of these?

    20170904_122128 (resized).jpg

    20170904_122142 (resized).jpg

    #37 3 months ago
    Quoted from KYBingo:

    I don't know what a trough swith cover/plate looks like! Is it one of these?

    No. In the bottom pic in Post 34, look at that "rat's nest" of wires above and to the right of the meters. The cover plate spoken of hides that mess.

    #38 3 months ago

    Here's a photo showing the cover plate on a Bounty.

    http://mirror2.ipdb.org/images/3659/image-8.jpg

    pasted_image (resized).png

    #39 3 months ago

    That's.. an interesting Bounty trough! What the heck were those relays for??

    Yes, that trough switch cover is very helpful in preventing coin box snags on the trough switches, but if you are careful, unnecessary. It's a nice thing to have, but not required for proper operation.

    #40 3 months ago
    Quoted from bingopodcast:

    That's.. an interesting Bounty trough! What the heck were those relays for??
    Yes, that trough switch cover is very helpful in preventing coin box snags on the trough switches, but if you are careful, unnecessary. It's a nice thing to have, but not required for proper operation.

    This particular Bounty has the 2-In-Blue scoring altered by an operator to make it less liberal. That is why the extra relays are there. The backglass alteration was so nice I thought it was a factory job when I first saw it. The game is for sale if anyone is interested.

    http://mirror2.ipdb.org/images/3659/image-12.jpg

    pasted_image (resized).png

    #41 3 months ago

    Original factory glass.

    http://mirror2.ipdb.org/images/3659/image-24.jpg

    pasted_image (resized).png

    #42 3 months ago

    Since my coin box is an old cardboard candy box (Watman's Sampler) I am not worried about snagging anything. Are coin boxes available anywhere (Maybe someone has an extra laying around)? I don't even know what one looks like....

    #43 3 months ago

    ... you got to love the world wide web.

    Looking to see and learn what I didn't know, I found these two images. I can understand the importance of a trough switch cover.

    image018 (resized).jpg
    image014 (resized).jpg

    Looks like the coin box is a "tin box" that fits so that the coins fall into it. It also needs to be the right size for easy removal and dumping.

    1 week later
    #44 3 months ago

    I just reach in and grab a hand full of nickles
    I leave the box in.

    #45 3 months ago

    The Laguna Beach I have seems to be a quarter machine. Does that mean that someone changed it? (5 plays for .25)

    I do remember feeding a machine (as a youth) nickels. That is what the return on a pop bottle was.

    #46 3 months ago

    Someone with more knowledge can probably tell you for sure, but I believe the option from the factory for Laguna was for nickels or dimes. Bally eventually added a 5 plays for a coin later on, probably after they realized that it was such a popular aftermarket thing.

    There's usually a relay that is added in service of the 5 for .25

    So, short answer, yes, the operator changed it out.

    2 weeks later
    #47 77 days ago

    Is there reason to revert? In looking for cards for the play field, 5 an 10 cents seems to be what is available. What is involved before I change all my quarters to dimes or nickels?

    1 week later
    #48 67 days ago

    I took a close look at the machines on Bingo Row in York looking for legs like those on my machine (see post #34). I didn't see any. My machine seems to be in a cradle welded between the legs. Is this a oddity? This cradle seems in good shape and appears to have been nicely restored/painted. No signs of rust.

    Working to get my machine out of the cradle to begin paint restoration of the coin door. Thanks to the lift, I think I can raise the machine out of the cradle just high enough to do the painting. Thanks to images on the web I think I know what it is suppose to look like.

    #49 67 days ago

    Cradle is aftermarket - not an oddity per se, but not from the factory. All the machine on 'the row' this year had factory legs.

    Operators would make the cradles to make the game more stable and/or prevent theft. Yours looks like a stability cradle.

    #50 65 days ago

    I went to Coos' site originally wondering about artwork and saw a video on how he cleans the inside of a bingo machine. Wow! Sorbo Blue Wonder, Magic Sprap, and hot water. Really?

    Is this a recomended process...and if so, what is an equivalent all purpose cleaner available in the US?

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