(Topic ID: 281412)

Bally Bikini Bingo - Tilt on Coin-up

By smohr

11 months ago


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  • 20 posts
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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by smohr
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mustery_wire_yellow-red (resized).jpg
Gray_90-9_wire_markedup (resized).jpg
anti-cheat-switch (resized).jpg
mod-splice (resized).jpg
InkedCU Switch 4D_LI (resized).jpg

#1 11 months ago

Hi, Just like the title reads the machine always tilts on coin-up. Here is what happens and what I have done so far....

1. I power up the machine.
2. I drop a coin
3. I can see the Red Button Relay is energized
4. Tilt Relay Coil energizes and game goes into Tilt.

Here is what I have done so far, figuring that the Tilt Relay Coil gets energized by any tilt switch, I went as far as separating all 4 Tilt Trip switches (one on the back door, one on the coin door, one on the shooter side side wall and one on the bottom board shooter side) and the plumb-bob figuring there is nothing possibly making them work.. I think thats all of them atleast the ones I can find.

Update: I also bent the 4D switch up so it never makes contact.

Any thoughts on what else would/could energize the Tilt Relay Coil?

Thanks
Steve

#2 11 months ago

Check switch 4D on the control unit (top switch of the fourth stack from the motor). This switch is an "anti-cheat" switch that tilts the machine if the coin pulse is too long, it could be there's an issue.

#3 11 months ago

Thanks okorange, Sorry I should have mentioned that, i read about that on another post by baldtwit and the 4D blade is up.

#4 11 months ago

try manually resetting the tilt trip relay by lifting up the armature plate. If it buzzes and won't stay up, you've got an electrical issue. If you can hold it up and/or it latches up, you've may have a mechanical problem with the trip bank reset.

if the problem is electrical, look at the switches/wiring on the tilt trip relay stacks for shorts and look at the plug connections.

if the tilt trip relay trips on power-on, then wire 14-5 to the tilt trip relay coil is on the 22 pin cabinet plug, so you can pull that one and power on the game, then measure between 14-5 and 70 (50V fuse or coil on reflex unit is handy place to attach to 70) and see if you have 50V. Check 14-5 on both the plug and socket ... that'll tell you if the issue is in the head or cabinet.

if the tilt trip relay is ok until you cycle the game, and it trips if you cycle the game by manually closing the start relay, then a really good look at the L3 switch on the tilt trip relay is next step.

#5 11 months ago

I was able to manually reset the tilt trip relay by lifting the armature plate and it holds. The tilt trip relay only trips with a coin drop. videos attached

#6 11 months ago

dropping the coin didn't power the start relay.

implication is CU cam 4D. Verify the wires are attached to the switch correctly ... it looks like you have center/moving blade wire 90-9 connected to 14-5 when the timer cams are locked. 14-5 should be on the top blade which you bent up so 90-9 never connects to it.

#7 11 months ago

wrt the score lamps not working, wiggle them. If they light, the fix is to remove the lamp, reform the tip by swirling on a hard surface to remove the divot, then stick a small flat bladed screwdriver in the socket - when it's NOT powered if you like your fuses unblown - and bend the center tab forward.

basically pry the tab until the tip is almost touching the outer socket ... when you let go it will spring back most of the way, but will apply more pressure on the lamp when it's reinserted.

#8 11 months ago

Am I seeing this correctly (without removing the stack...)
The pic below is of CU Switch 4D circled in RED. Notice only 2 (13-9 and 14-5) wires are soldered to the same top leaf of 4D, no wires soldered to the bottom or middle leafs.

InkedCU Switch 4D_LI (resized).jpg
#9 11 months ago

sounds like you need to undo at least one mod.

can't really tell wire colors in your pic, but 14-5 can't be connected to 13-9 or the game would tilt every time it was cycled ... unless there's more mods elsewhere that 13-9 is going (replay register 0 switch and replay reset relay switch)

are there 2 or 3 wires attached at the 4D blade? There needs to be 3 floating around in that area ... the above two and 90-9.

#10 11 months ago

Looks like only 2 wires are there. I will dig further into this and report back.

Could this have been set this way, that the player would pay an attendant to play preloaded replays and work the replays down to zero or cash out the replays. Cause the way its set now thats how it plays.

#11 11 months ago

it would make the most sense if 90-9 was attached to 14-5 on the top blade. That would cause the machine to trip the tilt trip relay on coin switch closure.

why they would disconnect 13-9 from the bottom blade, who knows ... unless they made multiple changes over time and that's just how it wound up.

#12 11 months ago

Just confirmed, only 2 wires attached to that 4D blade. I dug around that switch area and could not locate a 3rd wire.

I was able to buzz-out one wire 14-5 that goes to the Tilt trip relay lug.

The other wire (I think i need to do some more digging) buzzed-out at the Coin switch and the Replay Register Zero switch.

I was looking/comparing my County Fair manual with the Bikini Manual and the Tilt Trip Relay is documented the exact same way, so maybe I have something to compare with when tracing those wires.

#13 11 months ago

if you can't tell the wire colors for sure, the easiest thing is to unsolder at least one wire from 4D, then attach an ohmeter to 90-9 on the 22 pin cabinet plug and see if it's one of the wires that were/are on 4D.

it should be safe to attach to 90-9 on the plug since the coin switch should be open, but if you want to make sure no rewiring in the cabinet/coin switch will muddle things, yank the plug and attach to 90-9 on the socket.

90-9 is supposed to go from the coin switch, thru the cabinet socket and to the middle/moving blade of 4D. Nowhere else.

the bottom blade of 4D that is NC with the timer cams locked should be wire 13-9, and that electrically going to a replay reset relay switch and the SPDT replay register zero switch. Which it physically goes to you'll need to look ... whichever of those two has a double wire on the switch blade.

#14 11 months ago

Well i went looking for the 90-9 on the plug and the socket... not there, what is there is 13-9. So I am thinking I need to trace back into the cabinet and to the coin door socket to see if that 90-9 gets altered at some point or just run a new 90-9 wire from the coin socket to the 90-9 backbox socket the to the middle switch on 4D as a clean starting point.

#15 11 months ago

I think I'd start with finding how wire 14-5 is connected to the coin switch and remove that connection.

something is not making sense, as wire 13-9 can't be connected to 14-5 or the game would tilt on every cycle ... unless an end 13-9 is disconnected at either the replay register zero switch or the replay reset relay so the segment that went off to 4D is disconnected.

you sure it's a red/yellow wire on the plug? Usually that wire looks pretty gray due to dirt and fading, and you may have to dig back into a harness to see the original color.

#16 11 months ago

This is what I found out…
Originally, the 14-5 wire and the other ??-? wire were soldered to the top blade of 4D.
Middle blade and bottom blade of 4D did not have anything connected to it.

I unsoldered both wires 14-5 and the other ??-?.

I physically traced and confirmed 90-9 gray is correct from the coin door socket to the back plug. I want to trace from the 90-9 back socket and see where that is going.

I physically traced thru the loom 14-5 (red-green) to the 22 socket (left side 2nd from top) according to manual that is correct.

The other ??-? wire looks to be a mod of some sort. This wire (31-?), starting from the top blade of 4D, I physically traced it thru the loom and just before the 6 relay bank, it was cut and a solid brown wire was attached and went to the anti-cheat relay to a switch that was added to the shorter outside stack. The other brown wire from that switch goes to the lug of the coil.

The first pic is the mod splice, the second pic is the anti-cheat-relay showing the additional switch on the short stack.
mod-splice (resized).jpg
anti-cheat-switch (resized).jpg

#17 11 months ago

I was able to physically trace to 90-9 wire from the 90-9 socket position in the backbox and it took me to CU 5C switch. Pic is below.

Gray_90-9_wire_markedup (resized).jpg
#18 11 months ago

the wiring as described doesn't really make sense. Do you care about working out what someone was trying to do, or do you just want it back to factory?

if you want to figure out what the intent was:
1] was the ??-? wire in the harness, or was it just an added wire so the color doesn't matter?
2] is the added switch on the anti-cheat open or closed when the anti-cheat is unpowered ... and it it adjusted to work right
3] is 90-9 attached to 78-4 on CU 5C?
4] if your ??-? wire is 13-9, at least that makes sense wrt where the ends are. However, it doesn't look red/yellow in the pics.

#19 11 months ago

I would like to get back to factory or atleast so that when I drop a coin tge game fires up and when additional coins are dropped it adds replays to the replay register.

#20 11 months ago

I would like to get back to factory so that when I drop a coin, the game fires up and when additional coins are dropped it adds replays to the replay register.

1] was the ??-? wire in the harness, or was it just an added wire so the color doesn't matter?
Answer: Yes, it was in the harness, I opened the harness so I could follow it to the splice, but the splice was actually outside the harness.

2] is the added switch on the anti-cheat open or closed when the anti-cheat is unpowered ... and it it adjusted to work right
Answer: this switch is closed when un-powered. And it does appear to open at the same time the other switches on when energized.

3] is 90-9 attached to 78-4 on CU 5C?
Answer: Yes they are soldered together.

4] if your ??-? wire is 13-9, at least that makes sense wrt where the ends are. However, it doesn't look red/yellow in the pics.
Answer: This wire looks more like yellow/red, new pic below.

mustery_wire_yellow-red (resized).jpg

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