Hi JK - the bluriness of the copy is pretty typical of older schematics - shakier hands drawing them, I guess (or, more likely, multiple reproductions between what you're looking at and what was original). Regardless, I can read that schem, and happy to help. Which relay do you mean? Anti-cheat?

The commons are connected at all times except during a brief moment while the baffle is pushed in. The tilt switch you mentioned, being NC, allows the 50v and 6v common to connect.

You can ignore that. Tilt switches NC that are not conducting well or closed firmly enough is a problem that happens for many games.

The common for the coils is cut off during the baffle press to prevent erratic stepup.

There isn't a timer motor shown on the schem - only a timer unit. If there's a mechanical bell timer in the game, you'll hear it ticking for about 2 minutes. I've worked on games where that unit needed to be refurbed to turn correctly. Games with mechanical timers will shut off 120V using a switch mounted inside the bell.

The hot side of the coils is drawn on the bottom.

The first photos are of the score motor, not the timer unit.

The score motor controls functions like kickout. It is the only motor shown on the schematic.

Label must be wrong - the switch labels on the unit indicate scoring function. It's also mounted to the only motor on the schematics.

On a typical Bally of the era, there should be a post sticking out that will hit that switch stack at a certain position. Guessing that the switch blade that moves the two switches sheared off, but need another pic to be sure.

The other thing to note is that if the score motor is running - the unit either doesn't know it has reset, or there is a stuck scoring switch or switch under a kickout hole or something similar. While that motor is running, are the kickouts punching every so often?

Guessing you are referring to the Anti-Cheat relay? Power is turned on initially by the small stack of switches actuated by the shuffle (piece under the playfield that is pushed by the coin slide). From there, 120V is routed through the transformer to the secondary windings. One of the windings is the 50V winding, which powers all the coils. One of the coils is the Anti-Cheat relay. While this is on, 120V is allowed to continue to flow.

I would suggest seeing if you can press the armature on the Anti-cheat relay, and will it remain on? If so, then you have a dirty/maladjusted shuffle switch. If not, then you have a dirty/maladjusted anti-cheat relay.

Note that the game must be in reset position for the anti-cheat relay to function (the coin slide has to be pushed in and pulled back out - this resets a trip bank containing tilt and etc.

That picture above is what I was talking about - that arm hits the switches. It seems from your earlier photo that the switch might be missing a long actuating blade, but maybe not.

Yes, but it has a similar part to hit those switches. Sorry to confuse.

** It doesn't stay ON when depresses. I also cleaned it several times! Do you know a part# so I can replace it.**

I don't - perhaps adjust the timing of the shuffle switches a bit so that that switch remains closed for a little bit longer. Is the anti-cheat mounted under the playfield (near the shuffle switches) or up in the head?