Hampshire, IL
Joined the club as an owner today
(Topic ID: 70837)
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Atlantis
Bally, 1989
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I noticed the chrome grill needed fixing up top but I didn't even notice side rails til I got home... Not sure how I missed it.... The ramp with duct tape bothers me... It is still functional but need to review.
And the ramp that goes up and down... Any leads? Hopefully I can take apart tonight and see if it is just that piece or whole assembly cracked.
Funny you offer because I might be driving up to fond du lac Saturday morning to visit some family and come back Sunday... Are u available Saturday??? Thanks! Dan
So everything seems to be working except... The red light when you get into multiball mode... Have not looked into this at all but is there a fuse just for this GI??
I guess to rephrase my question. It came from the factory with a connector instead of being soldered directly to board.
Best part of tearing this down was the screw that broke for one of the posts by the drop targets. T-nut had come loose and of course this was like the one T-nut that was buried under that molded piece of plastic for one of the pop bumpers. What a pain in the ass.. Luckily those two holes by the pops where earlier versions had posts and a rubber were not used on my playfield but they had T-nuts in them so I don't have to go get a 10 cent T-nut.
Could someone take a photo of the wiring of the relay I have screwed up in the above photo... Does it match the one on the left in terms of spacing (open positions). Maybe you could list wire colors from left to right too. Thanks All !!! Got a LED finally in every PF GI. Time to get her back together.
Thanks!
One question... If you see my photo above; the right relay is the one that is hacked up. My red lights do not work. I thought the hack was probably why they did not work. You labelled the right really "white" and the left relay "red"... Were you sure on that ? Just ask b/c that means I have another problem causing red lights not to work.
Thanks
Dan
Ahh.. So you drawing is a top down view like if a playfield was upside sitting in a rotisserie. Gotcha! Thanks
Dan
Got her back together! Wow this plays fast! Atlantis rocks! Still need to do dome work but playfield has been cleaned up and LED'd. Still have to LED out under playfield and figure out the red light and add batteries.. I don't see this game going anywhere anytime soon!!!
Wanted to look at my relays again.
The pictures are with the playfield standing vertical in the game.
The right relay-white (the one that is hacked up) looks like this. ( not these photos are not up side down)
image-716.jpg
The left relay - red ( not hacked ) looks like this and from photo actually looks wired correctly.
image-361.jpg
So the white GI works perfect but looks like the two green-white wires are in position 4-5 instead of 6-7
Alright I see why you said my photo was upside down now.. So my new question is if the 2 wires (white/ green) are in the wrong position is this why the red lights do not work? Is there two GI fuses that control just the above playfield lights? Just seems funky that the hacked relay for white lights is working ok and the relay for the red lights which looks untouched has issues...
Thanks Wayout... I have not had much time to look at relays.. Have been trying to get a game plan.. I think I'll try what you said above first. I think I am going to flip then around as well to match your orientation. I do not think they will reach (blue/green) with that orientation. I did fool around with test mode last night to find the red lamps so I know what to do.
I finish last night with the under playfields LED's. Game looks awesome. Fun game. Very satisfying when you lock three balls and hit the jackpot!!!
Happy Friday Atlantis Club!!!!
Enjoy the weekend!
Dan
Quoted from wayout440:First verify you are getting the trigger signal for the lamps from the mainboard. The yel/blk wire at J2 is the trigger for the white lamps, the blue/green is for the red. Swap them and run test mode. Remember now that when the red are supposed to turn on, instead the white lamps will turn on.
Have you pulled off the relay board to inspect both sides? There might be cracked header pins, or something else, on the non working board.
So... Interesting day...
1- had family over and they like to play my pins. This morning the right slingshot was doing like a double/rapid fire. I figured it just needed to be adjusted because of new rubbers and. The switch was too close together. Did that. It worked. Played 20 games and it was fine... Family comes over. First game we play it stops working. Put it in test mode and it doesn't fire either... Arghhhh
2- while family was over they kept playing even though right slingshot doesn't work. I get a "hey dan" the ball fell through the playfield and into the back box.. Ummmm??? Impossible... Guess not... Never saw that the plunger cover had one of the two tabs on either side of plunger tip broken off. So if you plunged a ball and does not go through gate and comes back and I guess maybe you pull plunger or for some reason still have it pulled out the ball can fall through... Gotta find a new plunger cover...
3- next post below
Quoted from wayout440:First verify you are getting the trigger signal for the lamps from the mainboard. The yel/blk wire at J2 is the trigger for the white lamps, the blue/green is for the red. Swap them and run test mode. Remember now that when the red are supposed to turn on, instead the white lamps will turn on.
Have you pulled off the relay board to inspect both sides? There might be cracked header pins, or something else, on the non working board.
3- cont... So I turned the relays 180 degrees... Here is back of white relay...
"wayout" I swapped wires at J2 on relay boards and no luck. I de soldered the hack on white relay board and matched them to your drawing... Now nothing worked.... I looked at your photo and I think your green/white wires are at 4 and 5 not 6 and 7 like drawing.... So I re-hacked to board and got white working again... I tried to move red wires to 4 and 5... No luck... Now I took 4 and 5 out on red and put one wire into 7... Boom right side of PF red works!!!! But if I put wire back into 6 then nothing works....?????
Ok that's my story for today...
So I now have every light/lamp working except the 5x multiplier up top... Here is still to do list...
- wtf happened to my right sling shot... Does not work in coil test mode.
- need a new battery
- bullet proof- recap boards??? I have only worked on WMS system 3-7 boards. Probably followed vids guide on these 10-15 times with great success... Is there something I should be doing to bulletproof?
Thanks
Dan
I'll check the coil the hopefully tomorrow might... I forgot that I had bought a NVRAM battery eliminator. I had to snap a few pieces of plastic off the plastic socket to get it to fit but it seems to work. (Stayed in free play 20 minutes later)
I can probably rig something up temporarily... Was just hoping someone on this thread might have one. I haven't looked at other games from this era from Bally to see if this was unique or shared over several games...
So I can use a little help getting slingshot going. I bought a Atlantis manual on eBay today. That should help because I can not read the photo copied original in my game. (Schematics are blurry)
Coil does not fire in test mode. Measured resistance on both slings and they are the same.
What's up with the three transistors here. From what I can make out one of these are for sling.
I couldn't see in game where Q18 was and couldn't make out on manual. Think it is very bottom one.. Not sure where q17 is... I have not had to use a multimeter very often. Could you please elaborate on how to check these. I really did a lot of shot gunning on my WMS because there was so much info out there on what was wrong most of the time.
No problem. I am work as well.. I can see we are both very good multitaskers... I usually do not have time on weekdays to look at pins until late at night anyways.
Houston we have a problem... Ahhhh... so I grounded wire and touched transistor for left sling.. Boom she fired. I touched a random one accidentally as I brought wire down to try to touch transistor for right sling and it fired too. Touched transistor for right sling and nothing.
BUT now the right sling, left sling and popper for right ramp do not work... AHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!
Need help
Were those heat sinks suppose to be on there.
Thanks
Dan
I can check tomorrow night but I've been playing the game still without right sling working and it was playing fine...
Did yours have those heat sinks like fine in photo? Was the third heats ink transistor on my board the popper? I can't read my blurry schematic
Ok... Just blew a fuse under playfield and that's why those 2 solenoids did not work. Those two are working again. Still can not ground transistor to get her to fire but firing circuit check seems to be same on right slims and left sling.. Going to investigate some more...
I do not see in manual what the three playfield fuses are called out to be... Anyone.
Thanks
Dan
Just to confirm for this weekend...
330 ohm resistor is third component from bottom in that row of diodes and transistors. Also while it's out I should pull that heat sink transistor and add a tip 102
Thanks
Dan
I read you post wrong... Got the 330 resistor on order... Hopefully that does the trick...
Could someone tell me the the amps of the fuses under the playfield.
Thanks
Dan
1 week later
Yup... I PM that to someone who wanted mine... Interested to see what it goes for... Also got my goodie bag from GPE.. Hopefully this week I'll pull board and put new resistor in and she be perfect...
Quoted from pinballfan:This Atlantis is in very good shape, the playfield is very nice!
So what's your guess at eBay auction price?
So I didn't put in a tip 102 for that heat dunked transistor. My sling switch is not closed. I did not cut a leg of diode to measure put resistance across that sling matched that of other sling... So looking for next step here.. Thanks dan
neo- 7.5 ohms.. So if I disconnect the single wire on the one lug then Turn on; if it's a bad diode the resistor should be fine.. If it still burns up then what am I looking at?
Quoted from CaptainNeo:then it's something on the board, because the coil is out of the loop. Another way would be to unplug the plug for the solenoids. That takes them out of circuit. 7.5 is good for that coil, but can read good and short out under load. You have to be having high voltage going through that line to blow that resistor like that. Check for shorts in that circuit on the board, on the backside. Make sure nothing is jumpered half ass.
I pulled the connector at CJ9 on control board and no smoke at that resistor... Removed one wire and put back in CJ9... No smoke. Gonna replace diode
And for the second time... Everything works on Atlantis!!!! Just amazes you sometimes that all the work I did to tear down top side of playfield and then LED everything under playfield then game played 15 games and then the transistor blew for the sling. You would think it was playfield related after all that work you did...
Happy, Happy
Dan
Once I got the transistor out I could not get a good reading. I believe the leg was cracked. When I bent it to cut the legs one leg may have already been broken just under the base of transistor.
2 months later
Congrats! Did rebuild mine since they worked well so I'll let someone else chime in... Share some photos..
Quoted from Nisan:1. How does one access the bulbs under the playfield inserts? The sockets are soldered in, and the inserts are under the mylar so they don't pop out. So I am baffled as to how one pulls the bulbs - I have a few dead ones.
1st welcome to the club... Do you lift the playfield up so you can access underneath??? It's hinged...
Dan
Quoted from Nisan:Sorry I sounded like a newbie, but yes I have extensively worked on the pin - top and bottom of the play field, and everywhere else. As I mentioned, the lamp socket below the insert is soldered to the ground wire stapled to the underside of the pf, and the socket is rigid up against the underside of the insert. The manual has no info on how to replace the bulb. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Which insert... I'll look at mine for you and take a photo... I replaced every bulb with a LED and I remember a few being a pain in ass but no major issues...
Quoted from herbertbsharp:I planned on putting in an aftermarket sub so it didn't bother me. I just didn't want people who didn't notice bidding me up. I'm in da club now baby!
welcome to the club!!!
I had a feeling someone might jump at $700!!! Well worth it in my opinion!!!
Quoted from Whysnow:Can someone confirm what is the correct drop target for bally Atlantis?
I think this is it but not sure?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3944-BL
I would prefer to order from marco since I also need the new decal set and they seem to be the only ones with it
Hilton did you get an Atlantis??? Can I take you off the list if I ever sell it? (Not going anywhere anytime soon)
Sounds good... Your still 1/1 on list but no plans to get rid of her... If you get a chance throw some photos up so we can see what you are working with...
Just wish I realized all the sockets were 555's on this game before I ordered a whole mess of LEDs
DSCF1361.JPG 269 KB
No comment if I made this mistake....
Glad you found sub... Have fun with GI... That seems to be a common theme on this pin...
1 week later
Yes thanks as well... I never even saw that ground wire since it was never attached when I bought game!
Quoted from Whysnow:I am completely stumped on my complete lack of GI issue.
Hoping I am convince one of the locals with more diagmosing knowledge than I to come over and led a hand while teaching me a few things.
Look back at my posts.. My red GI was out it was a simple short that took me forever to track down...
1 month later
7 months later
Quoted from Whysnow:congrats. GREAT game!!! Classic fun and the right amount of challenge.
I have asked my wife to dress up as one of the backglass chicks for halloween some year.
Make sure she does not try and get away with not riding a dolphin
Quoted from Whysnow:I was thinking I would dress up as the dolpin
Pictures or it didn't happen!!!
2 weeks later
6 years later
Has anyone installed cabinet decals. If so from who? Classic Arcades? Pinball decals EU? Any feedback?
Quoted from Puffdanny:I can attest the decals are nice and hold up since I'm the caretaker of that pin until death.
thank you!
1 month later
I’m all in! Bought and picked up and NOS PF with additional Clearcoating…Stay Tunes
8E7DE57D-797D-4F7E-B46F-0F91B6931BD5 (resized).jpeg9E94E39F-D54A-44D5-89E7-3421EC550D41 (resized).jpegFCCBEA05-47B2-48BE-9973-B176E1DC7CA3 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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