(Topic ID: 70837)

Bally Atlantis Owners's Club - Fans Welcome

By wayout440

10 years ago


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  • 865 posts
  • 102 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by ScoobaDoo
  • Topic is favorited by 33 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider CaptainNeo.
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#4 10 years ago

indeed, it won first in early SS at both MGC and MPE. Atlantis is one of the best out there. could be considered a system 11 as well. Which in my book would be tied with Swords of Fury as the best System 11's money can buy.

updated 016.jpgupdated 016.jpg best in show WEB.jpgbest in show WEB.jpg final machine 002.jpgfinal machine 002.jpg final machine 009.jpgfinal machine 009.jpg
#23 10 years ago

green pop up post? WTF did someone find that. Never seen green before. When I restored mine I tried like hell to find a blue one, but couldn't.

#26 10 years ago

Green is not the original. Actually red is. As you can see in the pics, I had 2 of them, as I made 1 super nice one from 2. and both were red posts. You can tell they were original as one was cracked. But only orange seems to exist anymore. Green might have been early production run? Did it have the flipper rubber up by the top right pop? There are 2 posts up there on early runs. One of mine had it, other did not. I choose to leave it in and get little more action in the pops.

3 months later
#31 10 years ago

any sling switch should work. Pinball life has these. Just pick up some sets. All slings use them so it doesn't hurt to have some extras around.

4 weeks later
#49 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Anyone else have these holes?

20140420_192703.jpg 289 KB

Yup, early models have 2 posts there with a 3/4 ring around them. I had 2 games, one playfield with and one without, I used the one with and kept the posts in. Doesn't play much different without, and easy to remove if you decide you don't like them.

If you look at my pics earlier in this thread you will see them in by the right pop bumper.

#55 9 years ago

strobing is usually the caps on the PS board.

Flipper bats should be yellow with the slash hacks in. those are 1/8" longer than a standard flipper bat.

#59 9 years ago

if you put the white flippers on, your going to lose 1/4" between your flippers. That's like putting lightning flippers on a standard game.

#61 9 years ago

might I suggest going with Fathom bumper caps. I did it to mine. Blue with a hot stamped octopus on it. Fits perfectly and looks way better than the red. I also went with Blue LEDs for the alternative GI's instead of red. Gives it an aquarium look when in multiball.

#64 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

The bottom green insert look the worst but I could tell they would have a crack look to them before I did the mylar pull. Overall really only lost paint on one tiny insert edge. Did however loose a little tiny bit more on a couple other inserts while removing the glue...worst process ever!

I was thinking of going with blue and have to order some. The blue alternative is a good idea. Did you do other others for the reg GI or just white?

Just white, so the contrast of mulitball GI's is very prevalent.

#66 9 years ago

there must be a lot of NOS fields out there. I had one in my hands for awhile to get scans from, but that one ended up in MI. It is a short run game, so it's very possible there are a crapload of NOS playfields out there. Same holds true for Champion Pub. Was a short run and there are a ton of NOS fields out there.

#70 9 years ago

you can always sell your old playfield after you do the swap if it's not to far gone. Bet it's a good restoration candidate. You should have that NOS clearcoated or it will get eaten up fast. That old lacquer cracks and flakes off easy now. clearing it will preserve it for life.

#72 9 years ago

shouldn't need decals with some of the NOS ones. They clear just fine, depending on how much air is stuck under the lacquer. When I cleared my Atlantis, it cleared with no problems and I didn't use decals at all.

#74 9 years ago

yea, the original ones are garbage. The adhesive they used is not aging well, and the shit can peel off with very little effort if your not careful. Just get some good quality printed versions. On this game, it's not going to hurt the value replacing an already shitty decal job with a fresher version of shit decals. This is one of the few cases, where putting decals on a cabinet, will not hurt it's value.

#77 9 years ago

yea, getting that spring steel just right is a PIA. I reconfigured my entire gate setup on the sub because the angle they had it, just didn't work. Moved the angle and position of that bracket and now everything falls into place. I also make a little down ramp, where the ramp ends and the wooden boat sections begins. I was getting balls just hanging up at the edge there after the ball was launched. So I made a ramp so the balls are now forced to roll into the launch chamber after one is fired.

#86 9 years ago

I scanned in an NOS playfield so if you need inserts, I can send you the section and you have to photo shop out the background colors and print on waterslides for what you need.

#96 9 years ago

they might have to be resized a little, but I think they are close to the size they should be.

#99 9 years ago

all depends. I cleared mine with the bottom populated, but I didn't have to send it out (obviously) since I do all my restorations in house. So it was easier for me to do, but if your shipping it it's better to have it fully unpopulated, due to easier handling....less chance of something getting broken...no overspray on things..and you don't have to remember to plug the sockets everytime you do a layer. I highly suggest auto clearing it and having it done right. One shot is not going to do it. need around 4-5 to properly level all those inserts so they are smooth like glass. But it will never wear again, and plays fast as shit. Mine is very very fast.

3 weeks later
#106 9 years ago

match is in there. Maybe the % is turned to 0?

#120 9 years ago

like to see how it turns out. Nobody has a replacement at this time, but I could do a vacuum form off of mine if there was enough demand for it. I have one for mine, but i'm also going to do a complete redo of the sub as I think it looks like ass.

#136 9 years ago

don't exist. You have to painstakenly photoshop scans and make your own.

#142 9 years ago

yea, that is the full playfield scan I did. that's only the 75dpi one. I gave that one to the virtual pin community so they can make a table from it. But at 75dpi, it really isn't good resolution for inserts. I have it in 150 and 300 dpi as well. but the file size is gianmorous.

#146 9 years ago

that is nice, but wont' be if you keep it by that window.

#154 9 years ago
Quoted from Star_Gazer:

Yay! my new and improved submarine had arrived today!

lets see it in action. I have not found a sub I liked at all to put in there. I may just sculpt one from scratch.

1 week later
#165 9 years ago

wont' the blue on blue be hard to read once printed?

#167 9 years ago

on the computer it looks great. From other cards i've made, once the printer trys to print such subtle tones,they tend to blend together more easily. Computer screen game make millions of colors, printer...not so much.

1 week later
#184 9 years ago
Quoted from mwiz:

I have a rules question. On my game lock 1 is always lit when game is started. Is this default? Can it be changed to have no locks lit at startup?

The game will analyze your playing. After every 25 games, if you have not started multiball, it will gradually make it easier for you by giving you the first lock. If even then you can't get it, it will give you locks 1 and 2....and even 3 if your sucking hardcore. As you get mulitball more often, it will start taking away those "gimme" locks as you have a better % of playing better.

Or you can just turn it off like he said.

#192 9 years ago

it's probably the springsteel flap broke. Sometimes they get tired and crack in half. You can just cut a new piece of springsteel and rivet it in. If you don't know anyone that can do it for you, drive it up here and you can do it here. I have the spring steel and the rivet press.

#195 9 years ago

i'll be here until around 2ish on saturday. Send me a PM.

#199 9 years ago

I think it's an adjustment screw to slow the ball down when going through the ramp, if it fires through there really fast, it shoots out the sub gate and then the game is totally confused from that point on.

#206 9 years ago

too bright and too washed out. I would not want to see the glare on the glass from this one. I took out all the bulbs in mine except for 5. Illuminates the backbox perfect and hardly any glare on the glass.

#214 9 years ago

usually the only time you see wires soldered directly to the pads like this are for GI's. And then there is a plug shortly down stream from it. otherwise it's always a hack.

#217 9 years ago

that one is going to be drain monster since those side lanes are opened up to the back of the flipper.

#219 9 years ago

least it broke in a T nut. My locomotion, I had 6 screws break off in the wood from star posts. Never seen that happen in life. Damn playfield must be made of oak.

#227 9 years ago

also, look at the daisy chain for the red GI's. They have their own chain. If it's broken in the beginning, your not going to have any. I'd do a test from the lower playfield to the plug just to make sure you have continuity all the way through first.

Also, I remember I had a hard time testing the red series of lights. They were in their own test area.

#250 9 years ago

might be the key, but doesn't look like the trace goes anywhere anyway, not on this side anyway.

#256 9 years ago

don't bother with the caps unless they are bulging or spewing black/brown shit out. Make sure the on the sling, that the switch isn't touching anywhere. If i'm correct, slings and pops should be reactive. Meaning they don't talk to the board to tell it to fire. They instantly trigger themselves. You might have a bad coil, bad diode, or bad lug/wire. Look that area over, and better than you did for the red GI's

#262 9 years ago

why not glue a U shaped bracket behind that one, then fill it in with bondo to even out with the the metal in the front, and then paint it black. You would never know it was broken.

#268 9 years ago

If this works like system 11 does. The transistor on the board is only for testing the coil in test mode. Otherwise it doesn't do anything. If you want to test it, you can clip an aligator clip to ground and touch the tab of the transistor. (might have to have a diode on your clip, but unsure) and if it fires then, the circuit is good up to the transisor. This does not test the transistor itself, but everything up to it.

#271 9 years ago

see if all 3 of those share the same wire of a color. I bet you have a loose solder connector in the daisy chain. Just like your Red Gi's were. When you fired the sling I bet it moved something.

#276 9 years ago

then there is a wire issue on the playfield. I bet it's the daisy chain. Take a tester and see if you get continuity from the plug all the way down to the coils that don't work.

#278 9 years ago

not sure, I have seen them before on many different boards tho. If you replace them with TIP102's you don't have to have the heatsink on them. TIP 102's can handle more .

#286 9 years ago

if the transistor is working. Leave it alone. don't risk lifting a trace just to change things that are not broken.

#288 9 years ago

man reason. it happens, but probably from being overfused, could be bad diode on a coil causing to lock on. closed switch causing lock on. Any number of things. Just fatigue. Test the components in that line to make sure nothing else is knocked out.

1 week later
#293 9 years ago

that probably wasn't a good idea to post it here. now everyone knows about it.

#301 9 years ago

but prices on this game stay relatively low, due to the fact that most have never seen or played it. When I was looking for one. I could have bought 5 different ones for $700-900. Just cuz it's rare, doesn't mean it's valuable. If people don't know about it, there isn't a demand and prices stay low.

#307 9 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Neo what's your guess...

Didn't see the auction. Where was it located? If it's in CA probably $1000-1100 ish. IF it's over in PA probably $700-800, since that's where they all seem to be when I was looking for one, and that was the prices everyone wanted.

#313 9 years ago

it could. Put a new resistor in, disconnect one wire from the coil and try again. You will know right away. What ohms you getting off that coil?

#315 9 years ago

then it's something on the board, because the coil is out of the loop. Another way would be to unplug the plug for the solenoids. That takes them out of circuit. 7.5 is good for that coil, but can read good and short out under load. You have to be having high voltage going through that line to blow that resistor like that. Check for shorts in that circuit on the board, on the backside. Make sure nothing is jumpered half ass.

#329 9 years ago

so the transistor was blowing out the resistor? That bad to burst in flames? That doesn't make sense. Even if it was shorted on, it would just lock the coil on right away.

#331 9 years ago

that would just make it not work. I'd think something would be arching over to do that.

#336 9 years ago

nice that you got it figured out. Never seen a shorted transistor able to cause a resistor to poof like that before without arching high power. Least it's figured out and you did the work to remedy it. Nice job!

3 months later
#382 9 years ago

if the sub is missing it's not a big deal because it looks like shit anyway. I just got a model in the mail that i'm planning on using in my machine. I will post pictures soon of it. Size is a good size. very excited about this project. Pics coming soon.

#386 9 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Can someone confirm what is the correct drop target for bally Atlantis?
I think this is it but not sure?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3944-BL
I would prefer to order from marco since I also need the new decal set and they seem to be the only ones with it

That's the target. Decals have the seahorse on them.

Model i'm using is a new Nautilus model that came out with a giant squid stand. But the sub and stand are separate. Sub has clear windows in it as well which will be nice to light up.

#388 9 years ago

it is really thin vacuum formed plastic, but it could be 3d printed as there is a lot of play room inside that is just empty air.

#400 9 years ago

I have to put it together first. I don't know how well it's all going to come together, so let me get the project moving first, then i'll post pictures to make sure it's going to work. It's actually a very complex and detailed model, so will take me a bit.

#401 9 years ago

ok, started putting this bad boy together. It's is super detailed. has a metal sheet for metal brass handrails and latter posts. Sampling with some copper like colors. Color scheme i'm going to be using will be similar to the bottom picture. Will have interior lights as well as outside lights. Also going to have them change colors depending if in multiball or not. Going to have yellow or orange, and white for standard mode. Red kicks in during multiball. I sized it today, and it will fit nicely. Things are going to have to be cut out of it to make it fit good, but i'll start that process little farther along in the build. Going to have the tail extend somewhat over the ramp back as well.

box 002.jpgbox 002.jpg sub assembly 003.jpgsub assembly 003.jpg sub assembly 004.jpgsub assembly 004.jpg box 001.jpgbox 001.jpg natilous.jpgnatilous.jpg
#404 9 years ago

I've played 100's of games on my atlantis. It's fast as shit since it's clearcoated, but I have never had airballs on it. Never had a ball hit the sub as long as i've played it. Not to worried about it. Even if it does. I put this thing together all with epoxy, so it's built like a brick shithouse. If the railings and stuff get hit and bent up. That's added character like it experienced some battle damage from it's search for sweet cleavage.

Here's how far I got tonight. I'm done for the night on this. Time for dry brushing, washing, and other fine detail tomorrow. Maybe i'll start hacking it up so it can actually fit where it's suppose to go. I'd like to get it looking the way i want before that.

before detail 003.jpgbefore detail 003.jpg before detail 001.jpgbefore detail 001.jpg before detail 002.jpgbefore detail 002.jpg
#408 9 years ago

I like the side windows, so i'm going to try and not have the ball feed through the window, so it can light up. I have some big plans for this baby. Hope it works out well. I know i'm going to probably get some requests for these if it works out well, but honestly. The model is pretty complex. to put the model together, customize it, paint it, fit it, probably would be like $800. the model itself was $45 on amazon.

Plus, I've notice from putting 2 atlantis's together. the sub setup with the gate is different on everyones machine. they seemed to move the system around. I moved mine and completely changed it, so it's more effective in the way it works. made a micro mini drop ramp where the ramp and the wood meet, so balls don't hang up there and roll into the launch chamber. So my setup would be different from yours.

Feels like the Megatron custom work I did all over again.

#409 9 years ago

Well, I had to cut out the windows. Didn't want to, but it fit the best with the windows lined up with the ball entrance. Other side had to be taken out to allow the spring bracket as well. All of it attaches with velcro to the top of the spring bracket. I'll probably do another piece on the tail attached to the ramp. I like the sizing. Now I have to finish the paint job, which will have more detail like scratches and rust highlights. Maybe add more of a greenish tarnished look to it overall, which will fit better with the color scheme of the game as well.

atlantis sub fitting 004.jpgatlantis sub fitting 004.jpg atlantis sub fitting 005.jpgatlantis sub fitting 005.jpg atlantis sub fitting 006.jpgatlantis sub fitting 006.jpg
1 week later
#417 9 years ago

pumpkin orange does not work well with atlantis. I'd go with blue if you could.

#445 9 years ago

ground braid is just like it is on every other game. Comes from the hinges, up through the hole, and screwed with a normal screw right into the middle of the ground braid that runs along bottom of the head right by the displays. Just put a screw right into the braid itself.

#461 9 years ago

95% of the fuses in pinball are Slo Blo. For GI's it wouldn't really matter. If your getting a spike in that line from some outside force, it's going to blow the fuse regardless.

#469 9 years ago

mine is a drain monster as well. If you get over a min of ball time, your having a great game. The game is suppose to have the ribbed bats. I can't imagine trying to make the jackpot shot without them. It's already on the very tip of the ribbed ones.

#471 9 years ago

mine is damn hard to make. I had it at the MGC and all day saturday, jackpot stayed at 4million because nobody got it the entire day. that was like 1000 plays of nothing.

#474 9 years ago

the angle of the shot is off of the rounded part of the tip, which makes the shot very precise. I know some had it setup so you could hit the wireform when the centerpost is up and just flip. I never like setting my games up for "tee up" type shots like that. Makes the game to easy. Where you have your rest point of your flipper means a lot on how and where those shots will land. Also since you have standard flippers on there, your angles are completely different. Longer flipper will move all your angles. Suppose to use the notched flippers, which you would think would be easier, but it's not because all the shots are deceiving as angles are different.

#479 9 years ago

Here is my sub in the game. It's all wired up. Camera does not pick up LED colors the best. When in normal mode. The front and tail lights are amber orangeish. When in multiball the front changes to red and the middle area where the balls are changes to blue.

#482 9 years ago

thanks, i like this sub better than the vacuum formed one. Just barely fits. I mean the glass misses by 1mm on the top windows and the tail fin.

4 weeks later
#484 9 years ago

i'm currently working on adding a Giant squid to my atlantis. It actually came with my custom Submarine model. I just got done priming it. Had to use the heat gun on some of the tentacles, due to them being higher than the level of the glass. Fits very good and size is just about perfect. I'm going to be painting him Red and yellow like he is on the field. Pictures coming soon.

#487 9 years ago

Here is the squid in the painting process and in the game. I wanted to match the colors to the squid that's on the playfield. Turned out really good and fits perfectly. Another bonus is that I didn't have to buy it. Came with the sub I wanted anyway.

custom atlantis toys 013.jpgcustom atlantis toys 013.jpg custom atlantis toys 002.jpgcustom atlantis toys 002.jpg custom atlantis toys 004.jpgcustom atlantis toys 004.jpg custom atlantis toys 005.jpgcustom atlantis toys 005.jpg custom atlantis toys 006.jpgcustom atlantis toys 006.jpg custom atlantis toys 008.jpgcustom atlantis toys 008.jpg custom atlantis toys 009.jpgcustom atlantis toys 009.jpg custom atlantis toys 011.jpgcustom atlantis toys 011.jpg
#488 9 years ago

also threw in some pics of the sub. Since I only have the video.

#491 9 years ago

I mounted it to a piece of lexan which has a screw hole in it, which just screws down with the playfield plastic.

#493 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

That's a nice squid - perfect size and a great location to mount it in.
As I see you repeatedly improve this game, it's very hard to see that you have to sell it on the other thread.

I don't have to. But if it's going to be worthwhile, then I will and start over. Either way i'm content. I like how it turned out. It's not overpowering and goes well with the playfield artwork.

3 years later
#650 5 years ago

I had the same problem with balls getting stuck in that divot where the ramp transitions to the wood part. I made a little down ramp section that sticky tapes to the wood section. so when the ball gets to that transition. it rolls down the little ramp into the groove.

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