I have two Bally 2518 systems. Bally Star Trek and Star Trek: The Mirror Universe.

I've got to go back to the drawing board on my Lamp board replacements and the AS2518 soundcard / FPGA design. Plan to do that after TPF later this week.

What pinkid said. Normal GI is fine.
Switch Illumination will flicker due to leds not providing enough hold current to keep scrs on.

I'm working on a solution for that; but waiting on PCBs from OSHPark to begin test/debug.

Worthless! No Star Trek.

Wanted to call your attention to some limited stock I have of alternative replacement for the VJ248 bridge rectifier used in the power / transformer module in these games.

These are not spec for spec compatible to the original VJ248 rectifiers; but are game compatible because they are 100V vs 200V. Neither are available as new parts; however, I was able to procure a small number of the VJ148s which are pin-to-pin and physically compatible to the original rectifier. The lower working voltage should not be a problem for any AS-2518-18 power supplies at the highest voltage being 49VAC (BR3) for the Solenoid Voltage.

You can find more details here:
http://pinball-mods.com/url/vj248_alt

vj248 alternative

There may have been a power surge that blew every bulb.
It does happen; but admittedly more than a little weird.

Congrats; welcome to the bally club.
Seriously; that is normal. No one has really admitted to finding the cause of the Soundcard humm.
I suspect a ground loop; but haven't done much to find a solution.

Are you talking about the ball guides with the metal bells?
If so; the bells are unobtanium - therefore; It's unlikely anyone sells just the plastic due to lack of the bells.

as I stated; they are un-obtainium.
No one makes them anymore. I also bet the tool used to attached them to the plastic is long-since lost to time.

I think it's one of those items of little interest.
How many would a person sell? I mean my Bally Star trek probably has like a dozen and a half if I wanted to replace them all. Granted most early solid state ballys probably used them but how many would you really sell in a given year.

I suspect these were die punched or something; again - the actual manufacturing may be lost to time.
I have considered trying to repro them; but honestly, just not sure how they were made - what tool was used to install them; and how well they'd actually sell long term.

I used clear acrylic tubing on ST:MU:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-mirror-universe-pinball/page/8#post-1510108
If I could figure out how to cut these "square" - would anyone be interested in clear spacers?

Heads up:
Introductory pricing on our Early Solid State Pop Bumper bodies ends tonight at midnight:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lollypop-early-solid-state-bodies-amp-caps#post-6768891

C114_8color1080lbl (resized).jpg

?!? Never had a Ceramic cap fail in a pinball machine. Ever. But then again; I'm not actively looking for a failure.
What exactly is the failing mechanism on a pop bumper cap?
Could it be physically mechanical stress? or electrical stress?
I'm betting they are failing due to mechanical stress due to the proximity to to the pop bumper itself.

That's only used to set values aka settings in nvram.

I use it rarely to set audit values for bonus games.

They are SCRs not triacs.
2N5060 are still available:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/central-semiconductor-corp/2N5060-PBFREE/4806901
but appear to be in short supply.

MCR106s are still available in what appears to be healthy supply:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/thyristors-scrs/281?s=N4IgTCBcDaIAQFkDCAlAtARgAwDY4gF0BfIA

I don't know anything about Centaur. I didn't even realize it was a 2518 board set.

That said; you are going to have to provide a real part number for the TRIAC as I don't have the schematics nor do I want to try to find them in the mess of copyright takedown notices and what not.

TRIACs are just to parallels SCRs in opposite configurations so they can conduct in both directions. It shouldn't be hard to find an alternate but may be hard to find a drop-in physical replacement.

I used modern aluminum flipper bats on star trek the mirror universe... But I also used new flipper mechs under the pf.
Having modern bats seems to work ok .

The buzz is common. I've never had any real luck removing it.
It's related to the lamp matrix. Unsure if it's a ground loop or inductive feedback via the transformer.

I've been meaning to make an attempt and "fixing" the buzz on my machine... but I just keep getting side tracked on other projects.
If someone has suggestions; by all means try them.
I just found that mine seems to be the result of many issues. Ground loops, lamp matrix feedback, and who knows what else.

It helps if you post a screen shot of the schematics with the cap in question.
If it's a filter cap; 1500/2200 won't matter.
If it's a RC timing cap; it will very much matter.

I suspect it's a former; but won't know without schematics.

Yeah; C25 can be any value you want above 470uf.
It's a "bulk cap" for the 5V rail.

yeah; I'd think so. consult the schematics for correct values. I'd assume it's 390pico F @ 50V to meet switch matrix setup/hold times.
By the time these entered production; ceramic caps were more common in axial leads - I'm guessing because the same place machines could be used for the resistors and the caps in tape form.

Disconnect the switch for a while, does the problem remain?
I suspect you have a problem on the switch matrix or cpu board

Webbly is still doing business I forget whom it is here on Pinside.
I don't think they offer "service" . IE you may not be able to send them a questionable board and expect them to debug.
Regardless; ask them via their website. It's right there on the board via silkscreen.
Nevermind; barakandl responded.

Is the hardtop interfering mechically with the switch assembly?

ive repaired boards with much worse corrosion... which are still in use on both my star treks.

I see two red/white wires going off to "off board" FWbridge rectifiers... but no additional wires going to the other pins of the rectifiers.
I see "loops" on the other two pins; but do not see any connections.

In my opinion; they are unconnected so the "electrons are gonna fall out"

Problem is; I usually spend WAY TOO MUCH restoring them to ever hope getting the money back out.

Ah, yes... The tool justification. Played that card often myself.

I'd replace the outhole driver transistor and the predriver.

Look at the schematics. usually there is a TO-92 transistor connected to the base of the power transistor. The "pre-driver" provides additional current to drive the power transistor into deep saturation.
pasted_image (resized).png

Looks like Bally replaced the predriver with U3 which is a bunch transistors in a plastic DIP plastic.
I'd replace U3 and CR13. I'd test R22 and the other resistor to make sure it's in spec.

I only saw this very necro post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-bally-ss-transformer-cages

Don't think anyone has offered replacements for sale.

This screams that the board is from a different game with a different "prom".

There is a PROM on the sound board. Most don't realize it has one.