(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Trainmonger
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#904 6 years ago

I'm trying to fix a friend's Evel Knievel machine...
The MPU seems to boot correctly (2 flashes, one second, and then 5 others...) but nothing after that.
Nothing from the displays or the solenoids...

He's got a Skateball right next to it that's working properly.

Are the boards from 2518-17 and 2518-35 compatible? Can I try the Skateball ones on the EK to exclude things??

#906 6 years ago

Well I'm not really sure anymore on how to count these flashes...

What do you think?

#908 6 years ago

ok, so definitely the F5 fuse on the rectifier board, then...

He just sent me a picture of it...
30849941_10155623181117831_344903586_o (resized).jpg30849941_10155623181117831_344903586_o (resized).jpg
Definitely where I'll be looking at when I go to his place...

#910 6 years ago

Yup!
Thanks a lot Quench and Buzz !
I'll rectify that rectifier board first thing !

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#911 6 years ago

Also, I feel like there's a missing rectifier on the left, right?
I should probably put one there, shouldn't I?

#913 6 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

If it’s what I think you’re looking at and asking, the rectumfiers are in the backside of the board so they are up against the metal heat sink to dissipate heat... which is why they don’t use discretes on the top side like the repair job was.

Ooooookay !
I just realized I didn't know the English words for "diodes" and "pont de diodes"

#914 6 years ago

So here's the back side of it...
Isn't that weird that there's rectifiers on both sides??
30768865_10155622685732831_1202859571_o (resized).jpg30768865_10155622685732831_1202859571_o (resized).jpg

#917 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I think that is pretty common for quick repairs. From your picture fuse 1 looks physically bigger than the rest but it just may be the angle of the picture.
If you go up a page or two in this thread you'll see a picture of a rectifier board I just rebuilt. It had the same bridge go bad as the one on your board that was replaced on the top. I replaced all three and added heat sinks. That small metal heat sink spacer under the board was removed.
Robert

It does look bigger indeed. I'll check that when in front of it.

That's some great work you did on that board !
I won't be as good as that.

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#919 6 years ago

Ok ! I'm starting to understand (silly of me) !
I thought it was strange as I couldn't see BR2 on image 1.

So there's supposed to be 3. And according to the schematics, they're all of the same value, right?
VJ248 ???

#920 6 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Or just get a new one for $55 from barakandl
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Oh my oh my !
That dear Barakandl ! I love this guy !!!

Didn't know he did that though !
I'll suggest that to my friend !
That's a great idea for him to have a go on soldering !

#921 6 years ago

Anyone can help me with the values of this bridge rectifier, please?
The documentation says VJ248 VARO ... ?????? Can't figure out what this is...

#924 6 years ago

Oh !
So that's the reason for this homemade fixing !
Then I might go for Barakandl's thing !
Hope he ships to the old continent !

#929 6 years ago

We're working on it.
Thanks again to everyone who helped !

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