Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
BMX
Bally, 1982
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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Quoted from kursiv:Another unique new hit feature from Bally is the 4 memory drop targets..”. Guess the RStones flyer statement was a bit over the top.
The drop target score value was kept in memory not
how many targets were knocked down.
Behind the drop targets is a vacuumed formed window assembly.
In each cupped "window" is a #44/#47 lamp in it.( I do not know the
point values) but you scored your way up to a special.
Quoted from spiroagnew:were there any production differences in cabinets between the games in the AS-2518-XX run?
Most differences are on the side wood rails that support the playfield.
Some have cut outs at different points along the support rail in order
to make room for an overhang of components. This variation is most
likely on the lift side.
Quoted from eh97ac:Test cycle on the S&T runs perfectly.
Does this mean you can "hear" the vocabulary in test mode? Or,
does the S&T do the correct L.E.D. flashes for the power on sequence?
What version S&T do you have early or late?
The playfield thickness is on CPR side, they should know better.
On your playfield now, the back stand up are also below the level
that they should be at.... sad. I guess you can't have everything.
Lesson learned, on CPR playfields test fit assemblies before doing
---- anything else. One now has to do pre-routed cuts to the playfield
---- in order for original assemblies to fit.
AudioHaven If you on plug the mini aux lamp board and the game does not blow fuse...
check the two 15 pin connectors that interconnect inside the head.
One is marked 18 the other is marked 15. they both get confused.
They are both pinned alike but the wire colors are different, but ever
so slightly. I had the same problem. Movers were trying to take the head off
and got confused and switched those two connectors and ended up with
the same problems that you described.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Turned out to be the zero cross circuit. This circuit on the CPU board is fed by the GI AC voltage (on Baby Pac, other games may have different feed) and tells the lamp U10 PIA when to switch between the 2 lamps on each lamp string. Someone had snipped the wire at the GI tie-in point under the playfield and patched a wire from the 43V DC flipper circuit from the lamp/solenoid board into the zero cross circuit. Not sure why someone would make this mod but its no wonder why the zero cross circuit had a hard time functioning only detecting the ripple on the DC supply. Removing the jumper, reconnecting the GI wire under the playfield fixed it right up. Insert lamps function perfectly each and every time I power up the game.
Not sure how common this "mod" is but I thought I would post it just in case someone else has problems with inserts not lighting the correct inserts.
O.K. the story on this is Bally made a little change to the zero crossing detection circuitry
-- to there dash-35 board. So certain games that were made with diode lamps would be
-- driven one way and regular pinballs be driven the "traditional way". The tech or whom
-- ever was set on the "traditional" zero detection circuitry and probably did not have a
-- manual or they swapped out the CPU that had the 43 volts zero detection.
Note: Bally CPU board AS-2518-133 is the one that has CR52, a 1N4148 diode.
------ (Games with diode lamps).
------ Bally CPU board AS-2518-35 is the one that has R113, a 2k resistor.
------ (Games with no diode lamps).
Quoted from Rat:I'm a Bally noob but I recently learned that my Centaur will not full boot unless all the balls are detected in the trough.
That problem has been going on now for over thirty years.
There was a time when operators would bring the game in
for service and complain about it not working.
First call out, does it have all the balls in the trough.....
and you figured out the rest of the story.
Quoted from mark532011:are these 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, etc.?
Bally uses 1/4 watts. Other wattages are listed if not 1/4 watts.
Quoted from Pauz21:Mystic worth these days
low end----- high end
$450.00 ----$1200.00
Quoted from dasvis:Using NVRAM allows you to remove batteries & still retain data.
I have one installed in a Bally Centaur and it is still holding the data. Thumbs up.
I like it! I only wish you had a spot to add another 6821 PIA and piggyback
breadboard experiment area.
( need more dipswitch options ) (need a few more switch strobe lines) Great job.
Quoted from bonzo442:Anyone else noticing this part not crimped enough from factory
The OEM part had two flat walls on the inside Dia. that help keep the set screw head from turning.
Quoted from too-many-pins:Does anyone know if the transformer & transformer rectifier board from a Magic will work in the Galaxy off the top of their head?
It should.
Rectifier board A-430 on both games.
I would double check the playfield pin-outs just in case...
But, it should work.
MPU's are different.
Magic -100
Galaxy -200
Quoted from JohnBillerman:I verified continuity between SDB J4-8 and CPU J4-7 - also past the headers into the board.
The relay pulls in during solenoid test mode and when grounding Q15 (in attract mode only.)
Any next steps?I believe the traces in the damaged area all buzzed out earlier, but maybe I'd better take another look down there.
Not to be interrupting, but why do you have the crappy IC sockets on your CPU board?
They are awful and cause a lot of problems.
Quoted from JohnBillerman:I have a Bally Black Jack and the flippers stopped working after a new power rectifier board was installed, but everything else seems fine.
Test points measure within expected values on all boards. I get 7 flashes and the relay clicks on the fifth flash.
The relay will pull in if I ground the tab of Q15, UNLESS I HAVE STARTED A GAME: then it will not.
O.K. did you replace the 1N4004 diode CR15?
Quoted from mof:when does Stern implement the first hurry up in an early SS?
I'm looking at Seawitch, Nine Ball, Flight 2000 -- and I'm not seeing a hurry up...
That feature would not come around till John Norris started to work for Premier.
The closest thing I could think of is Iron Maiden.
The lower drop targets on the lift, times out and resets.
If you want to call that a hurry up.
I know one game says "hurry","hurry" over and over... I think that is Split Second
Williams Pharaoh as a "true" hurry up feature.
Quoted from statictrance:I'm looking at the manual and can't find a switch matrix for the life of me. I know this era is a 5x8 array and am trying to pinpoint some odd behavior.
Anyone have any idea where to find the switch matrix for a strikes and spares online? Or is it as easy as writing down the switches in order (if so, is it 1, 2, 3 down the first column, or across the row?)
ipdb pdf file page 20 and 36.
Quoted from Chalkey:Is there a way to adjust the drop target height that I'm missing or do I have to shim the whole mech? They appear to be the original drops but I'm not positive.
The new repo drop targets , that they use... ,use a bally style
foundation that throws all the height dimensions off.
Sadly, you have to shim the D/T bank assembly in order to make it fit the playfield.
"They appear to be the original drops" Umm.... no.
Quoted from swinks:Question for the AS-2518 enthusiasts here, as I have not played many of these games due to not many being sited / available to play, what games of the Stern Category and then the Bally Category have the best rules? If possible don't worry about the art and layout as I am more focusing on the games features (drops etc) and mainly RULES.
Stern -
Bally -
To each their own...
For me:
1) Star Gazer; spinner points or drop target points.
2) Harlem Globe Trotters; over all good game.
Quoted from statictrance:B - Paragon, centaur
Stern - Flight 2k, quiksilver
True, true,true. Very good games.
Quoted from desertT1:I had the right side flippers go out on Space Invaders the other day. I found a wire that had broken free from the EOS, so soldered it back in place. And the flippers on the right still aren't working. I'm getting voltage to the coil lugs, but not getting 43V to the cabinet button. I forgot to do a continuity check, but will do it tomorrow when I'm at my location. It's probably something simple, but I've never had a dangling wire not bring a flipper back to life after it was soldered back on. The left side works, and there is only one circuit sending power in, plus all 3 coil lugs on the right have voltage, so the windings are in one piece.
Am I missing something obvious?
Did you check the back traces on the SDB.?
Quoted from Thrillhouse:The S33 switch on my mpu doesn't work and I want to change some sound settings on my medusa.
????? Bally Medusa sounds are controlled by test function #18; the button is on the coin door.
Setting are "00", "01" chimes no background snd.
Setting "02" scoring noise effect no background snd.
Setting "03" scoring effects with background snd
You control the input by pressing the start button on the coin door...
Note: the input cycles from 00...03 and back around again.
read pg.7 of the Medusa game manual
Part #F0 713
Quoted from jdoz2:Anyone have a spare transformer/rectifier laying around? Bought a frontier without a head key and was surprised to find mine missing once I drilled the lock at home... [quoted image]
Ouch!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Original Elektra board on top. Works as expected. Board on bottom is out of a Centaur and has the Elektra ROM set installed (2532 type chips). That board has a different startup sound and a couple of the controlled LEDs on the backbox door flicker with this MPU installed. Game play seems fine otherwise. Both boards appear to be -35 but with the other sticker on the Centaur board I wasn't sure if it was different and if so is that causing the odd tone and flicker.[quoted image]
AS-2962-17 is Bally Space Invaders...
ESI = Electronic Space Invaders.
The CPU board is a Dash-35.
Quoted from woody76:I stink at reading schematics so some help tracking down the culprit would be appreciated.
If one switch is stuck closed, non of them will work.
Quoted from desertT1:On Stars, on occasion 500 points and +1 bonus will trigger when the ball kicks into the shooter lane. I think it's one of the two button switches doing this. Aside from banging on the PF in game or switch test is there anything more I should be looking at for these potential phantom switch hits?
Flaky switch cap.?
Quoted from jsa:I've got a game that has the Alltek lamp driver board and is LEDs. Everything works pretty great. The only complaint my serious player friends have is that when you hit the flippers, the GI will blink.
I understand that the GI is on AC, and you're picking up the voltage drop. This has a new power driver board and solenoid board, I think it's by design.
Can anyone suggest any clever ways to prevent that drop (besides going back to incandescents)?
You might have to put in a separate isolation transformer.
I know, hard core/over the top... but it could work.
Quoted from Nokoro:Ah, got it. Thanks for the explanation. I just checked, and my GI dim ever so slightly when I hit the flippers. It is barely noticeable.
That is a common characteristics of the Bally/Stern games of that era.
You could have a little AC ripple from the 48+ volt bridge.
Spiking is definitely coming from the flippers.
You could also have a bad flipper diode.
I would try/test the flipper diodes 1st.
Quoted from JethroP:Does this sound like a PCB problem? Paragon boots (7 flashes). Put a quarter in and game racks up a credit. Credit button starts a game but none of the switches add points, no sounds, and no solenoids fire. It's like everything is dead. If I run the self test the lights flash, displays work, and the solenoids all fire. Any ideas?
Is it the playfield switch connector that feeds into the CPU?
Quoted from RobDutch:reset circuit
On Bally cpu, it should be 0 then a snap up to +5 volts. Aprox.
*
1) I would check to make sure all data and buss lines have continuity
--- to all components first.
Quoted from JethroP:Not really a problem, just curious if someone can explain this: On my Rolling Stones, about 50% of the time, when the ball hits one of the lower slingshots, I hear a faint very high frequency pitch. I can't tell where it comes from...either the speaker, or just some weird electrical HF hum from electrical/mechanical components being energized. Has anyone else ever experienced this, and what the heck is it?
Are you sure it is not the bushing going bad?
I've had a few sling shots that have squeaked from time to time.
Quoted from RobDutch:It did not fix it. The problem might be in my scope settings.
On this photo you can see U15 pin 5, which seems to be pretty correct.
But the machine is still not booting (no flashes), anyone has an idea?[quoted image]
1) make sure all data lines are correct...
2) simplify ics, 6800 + u6+ bottom pia to start.
3) do you get a flicker flash?
4) start from this point then build up ics.
Quoted from jibmums:Did early Bally solid states (Mata Hari & Evel Knievel era) have 5/8" spring washers in their drop target reset solenoids?
Yes, the D/T assemblies had a spring washer for the reset solenoid....
---- the size was larger than the common flipper coil, sling shot coil, etc,etc,etc.
Quoted from Mathazar:Looking for some advice/direction on how to wire this up. I'm replacing the pop bumper leaf switches (with spoon) on a Bally Black Jack. The original switches have three lugs while the replacement from Marco's (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A110-5) has 5 lugs. How do I wire this up, including the cap and diode (I have a bunch of those laying around...won't be reusing the ones off the originals)? Thanx![quoted image][quoted image]
That switch assembly is for the modular Thumper Bumper assembly.eg EBD.
The two bottom side lugs are for the Thumper Bumper body #555 lamp.
Quoted from seshpilot:Looking for a 4, 5, or even 6 drop target centering plate as shown in the photo below. I have a 4-bank that is missing it, but could trim down a 5 or 6 if necessary. Hit me up!
[quoted image]
Here's what it looks like on a 3-bank:[quoted image]
If all ells fails... laser cutting facility.
Note: the long .100 housing are getting hard to find.
I do three jumpers to the voltage regulator connector.
1) One for the +5 volt to the solenoid transistor components.
2) One for the gnd to the main filter capacitor.
( all the burns come from this bad designed area )
3) One for the +15/+12 input from the bridge power supply.
( Use pin #1 top... it is open. add new orange wire to connector
--- and add to the other main orange wire... fasten both together at the bridge .156 connector )
The +12 volts is the life line to Bally and Stern games. By giving an extra wire to handle the
load... it takes the pressure off the connectors.
This mod is one of those "secrets" that nobody does.
Quoted from Enochsmoken:Does anyone have a part list for the AS-2518-35?
thanks,
brad
Check the Bally pinball manuals.
Quoted from Phesson:I just replaced the flickering leds in a Mata Hari with incandescents. Now the displays for player 2 and 3 are pointing random numbers along with player one scoring. I unseated and re seated all the connectors with no luck. Any advice on where to start on this? Could I have shorted something during the light swap that would cause this problem?
Try the 5101 ram.
I would start with the lamp test...
1) does the solenoid expander relay "click" or "chatter"
2) if chatter then the lamp bridge is bad... adding an A.C. ripple to the MOC 3011.
3) saucer, 4bank target, outhole kicker, are on the same line.
---- ( relay must be energized for these coils to work ) check continuity from
---- J1 -pin5 of relay expander to each coil. Wire 67 brn-org.
Did you manually ground the anode side of the coil?
Did the coil energized ?
If not, bad coil winding or obstruction to the solder lug.
Did you jumper the +48 volt to the coil daisy chain?
Quoted from pacman11:I replaced all coils with new ones already.
Yes... But have you manually activated each coil that does not work?
Did you check for cold solder joints on the bottom of the solenoid expander ?
Yes, the wires should be different.....
Like I said.... the expander has to be energized in order for the coils that do not work
to get the +48 volt dc. Since the cover is off the relay you could tape the contact lever
in the energized position... You can then use a volt meter to make sure the three coils have
+48 volts...
Did you check the outhole kicker???? it is on the same line.
Did you check the continuity to each of the three coils to make sure the +48 volts
is going to each coil?????
----------------------------------------------
If you are still having trouble,trouble shooting you EBD,
then maybe it is time for you to get in contact with a competent
pinball repair technician.
Quoted from jibmums:Two quick questions before I order from GPE: Can the original .156" connectors from an early Bally SS be reused with trifurcons, or do I need new ones?
Second, got a new 054 rectifier board in my Centaur. Might as well re-pin the wires with new contacts, are those contacts & connectors for it (just like the ones in pacman11's photo above) .062", .093", or .084"?
The power supply connectors that Bally used are by AMP.
Quoted from jibmums:So that would be these then?
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=2
I would get a sample and test fit... I believe Stern used them too.
I do not know about the Tyco remakes...
Do to covid-19... and going a bit crazy...
I started to do a DASH-35 repopulate PCB.
Bad side: the through holes are a bit too small.
Attitude needed, patience.
I would term this project: a pinball geeks jigsaw puzzle.
Quoted from jardine:Been cleaning my Harlem. Got the drop targets redone after removing a lot of grease.
Next was the ball gate mech.
I have cleaned and put it back together but it sounds like the coil is activating and keeping the gate closed. It made a loud buzzing sound before I turned it off for fear of burning out the coil...but can anyone shed some light.
I've triple checked how I put it back together and it looks right?!? Photo's attached.
EDIT: gate is shown in the open position. Have I just attached/positioned the pole incorrectly?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I would loosen the set screws, then...
1) Push gate relay closed and tighten one set of screws very lightly.
---- ( top gate wire form should be in closed position ).
---- ( gate should not have any stress pushed against it )
2) Test movement of gate.
3) If O.K., tighten both set screws, till gate is set and moves freely.
Quoted from jardine:Ok. Gate still needs tweaking but thanks guys. It was originally in the wrong position so adjusting as per your recommendations has fixed.
Wondering if there is a parts list for these games? In the photo you can see that the first drop target is missing the opposite metal guide?!? to keep the target from actually falling out.
Is this available?
I actually need some posts as well for the topside and want to ensure the right size is bought.[quoted image]
Or get in contact with a metal laser cuter and have some cutout and you can bend and tap... 5-40th.
Quoted from guitarded:Quick question before I go looking for something I don't know I will find: Does anyone sell the plastic heads that go on the slingshot arms? Or should I be looking for the entire arms for replacement? Plastics on mine were cracked and are finally giving out.
OUCH! I use epoxy to repair...
That is a hard item to find... OEM is NLA...
A reproduction head was available... it has a slightly different design.
That part is hard to find now too.
Kicker arm assembly A-3459-1
Kicker cover plastic C-1062
Quoted from guitarded:I assume you mean the entire assembly?
I actually might have found a pair of the C-1062 Nylon Heads...placed the order. (Will see if they actually have them in stock or if it is a mistake on their site.)
Got in contact with @swinks... I believe he is hinting at make reproductions of this part.
Quoted from JethroP:Do you need the roll pins as well?
Yes, if you do not want the plastic head to come off...
Hopefully, you have the roll pin still attached to the metal arm.
Quoted from djblouw:Yes, the entire mechanism. You’d have to make new holes for the new foot print. But it will work. I’ve done it on a MH.
I did the same thing back in the late 1980's when Bally was gone
and the distributors had no parts... Bally Space Invaders.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:I contacted Swinks earlier this year about reproducing this part. I sent him an original to work from, and he finally received it a little over a week ago. So it's in the queue to get done...
Fantastic!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:So has anyone used and confirmed a ULN2081A will work in place of a CA3081 chip on the driver board?
Both cross reference to an ECG916/NTE916 Common Emitter High Current NPN Transistor Array.
Quoted from pacman11:Thanks, I have a lot of bad sockets are these a good replacement option?[quoted image]
If you don't want them...
I would be interested...
Regards.
Quoted from pacman11:You want the old ones? Can they be saved? Why?
"You want the old ones?"
Yes... If you don't mind...
"Why?"
I have a fetish for fixing OEM Bayonet lamp sockets.
"Can they be saved?"
Yes... if not completely destroyed.
If you want them back... O.K.
I just finished a complete set to a Bally EM game.
Regards.
Quoted from pacman11:When I turned it on the game buzzes so I shut in down fast. I don’t want to damage anything on it. The game did work with the old board but some of the wires were hacked pretty bad so I thought I’d clean it up and put a new power supply in it..
Where's your manual schematics....
I would start buy checking every connection from
the transformer lugs to each PCB input.
Quoted from Mathazar:In stock at Marcos. $2/ea in quantity of 10 or more. $3/ea if you need just a few.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7501
Those are for Williams style kickers heads not OEM Bally style kickers heads from the 1970's-1980's.
Quoted from pacman11:Need a picture of the J1 and J2 connector to figure out the wiring. I’ve got a wire out of place that came out of a connector for my Bally pin on powersupply. Thanks!
Manual has wire color and pinout.
Quoted from pacman11:No manual and my eyes aren’t the best to read it anyways. Getting older sucks!
What game... What connectors ?
O.K.
when facing the transformer bridge power supply...
[ J1 ] playfield connector is located to the top left.
pin1 is on the left, pin 8 is last pin on right.
Factory: connector's open locking pins on top.
[ 1 I 2 I 3 I 4 I 5 I 6 I 7 I 8 ] --connector J1
-50 40 n.u. key 70 60 20 10 -- wire color code
*************************************
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
part two
when facing the transformer bridge power supply...
[ J2 ] playfield connector is located to the top right.
pin1 is on the left, pin 10 is last pin on right.
Factory: connector's open locking pins on top.
[ 1 I 2 I 3 I 4 I 5 I 6 I 7 I 8 I 9 I 10 ] --connector J2
-38 40 n.u. spare 41 30 20 key 70 40 -- wire color code
********************************************
Note: 22 awg small dia. wire. -- 18 awg large dia. wire.
wires:
1) 38 -- yellow-black, 22 awg.
2) 40 -- green, 22 awg.
3) N.U.
4) spare ground
5) 41 -- green-red, 22 awg.
6) 30-- yellow, 18 awg
7) 20-- blue, 18 awg
8) key
9) 70 -- orange, 18 awg
10) 40-- green, 18 awg
Quoted from pacman11:This is what I found but looks different then yours.
[quoted image]
Again that pinout is for a Bally Kiss pinball.
Kiss and Space Invaders have different bridge power supplys.
Lost World rectifier board assembly AS-2518-18 pg5 1979 parts catalog.
KiSS " ------------------------- " AS-2518-49 pg7 1979-1 parts catalog.
Quoted from pacman11:On J1 I am counting 9male pins not 8
That is a universal bridge power supply.
That is not OEM.
Ignore the 9th pin connector... You do not have a KISS pinball.
Quoted from pacman11:I don’t have a spare ground on J2 pin 4
It is a spare... you probably have no wires for it...
It is marked N.U. as "Not Used"
Quoted from guitarded:Original EOS Flipper Switches on Dolly?
Flipper assembly:
ASE-1587-101
ASE-1587-102
E.O.S. switch
ASW-A20-23
I would say you have a short then on the orange wire.
Make positively sure the orange wire is on pin 5 of J1
check the back of the power supply board... to make sure
there is no short or bad connection.
You could remove the pin5 connector wire from J1
and jump test the bottom of the playfield.
Make sure red wire is on pin8 of J1--- not pin 9.
Quoted from Jakers:when I get a match or a high score the knocker does not fire. Is that a setting that needs to be turned on or something?
Check dip switches and adj 16,17,18,19.
Quoted from Jakers:According to the manual on ipdb, switch 16 has to do with game rules of the green arrows and 17-19 are all coin price related.
O.K. that game does not have expanded adj.
try dip switches 6 & 7
and dip switches 21 & 22
Quoted from Phesson:The fuse I took out was a 1/2amp 250v. [quoted image]
I would use a 1/2 amp slow blow. Playfield is 1amp slow blow.
Quoted from Mathazar:vec-tor - is a fuse at that location normal? I've had two Mata Hari's....neither had a fuse there.
That is an add-on that was a suggestion back in the 1980's...
Stern has the same mod to their chime assembly.
So operators, if they were smart, add fuses to coils that had no fuses.
Remember, it is better to blow a fuse than to fry a coil and blow a primary
fuse and have your game down and not earning.
Bally, in there last revision of their pinball machines...
mounted the knocker to the playfield so it would be
part of the fused +43 volts.
Quoted from pacman11:Don’t see any shorts. But there’s also no voltage at J1 orange wire pin 5 either
then you have to take the bridge pcb off and check the back side...
Or remove all connectors and check for continuity.
**************************
[ should all be the same ]
J1 pin5 & pin8
J2 pin1
J3 pin10 & pin11
Quoted from pacman11:Okay so I removed my playboy transformer and plugged all the connectors in and got the same result no bottom GI. Must be a connector problem. But I have continuity on orange wire J1 to under playfield.
You have a break some where...
Did you jump the wires on the bottom playfield?
If you did it right, then the bottom run of lamps should have lighted.
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Quoted from pacman11:Yellow wire is orange, someone cut it to add more wire. I believe I have everything hooked up correctly on the connector..
[quoted image]
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red <---------
Question;?
Why is the red wire inserted to pin7, when it is to be pin 8?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue <---------
8) 10-- red
Why is the blue wire inserted to pin 8, when it is to be pin 7?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white <-----------
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Why do I not see a white wire in pin1??????
Quoted from jardine:Connectors look ok. Gave them a clean and reseated.
Flippers still not working
Is there much info in Pinwiki on this? I couldn't find really all that much when it came to trouble shooting?!? Guess that's why I'm just asking in here.
1) Check back of PCB... any melted traces burns... Etc,etc,etc.
2) +43 volts to flippers O.K.
3) Cabinet flipper buttons contact ( 70 ) orange wire is ground.
4) Test flipper coils by using a long wire and short cabinet wire [ orange ] (70)
--- to flipper coils [anode side of diodes ] flippers should fire!
5) If not, check bridge power supply for continuity of A2J2-pin9 flip sw ret.
Quoted from luckycreature:Did a flipper rebuild on my Bally star ttrek . As I played the right flipper slowly has creeped up to a higher resting position. What do I need to fix? Thanks .
[quoted image]
Need to tighten the allen head set screw... maybe add a little loctite to the threads...
re-dress the metal flipper shaft.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I just finished fixing a vocaizer board for a friend that is working on a Xenon. Replaced all the DIP sockets, cleaned all the ROM leads, replaced broken chip leads, and then the votlage regulator and diodes. Board seems to work fine now but CR1, CR2, CR3 get hot. Warmer than I am comfortable with. Is that really common on these? I read one post where someone installed 1n5401 instead and I'm leaning that way myself and may pull off the 1n4004 and upgrade them.
Just want it right before it goes back.
Mine is the same way...
Quoted from kerokero:I’m looking for suggestions on how to fix an arch rail on a Bally Paragon that won’t stay in the post. I’ve tried tightening it down but it just pops out instead of staying in. I was thinking maybe the nylon post was worn so I rotated it to use the unworn side but it didn’t help. Maybe take the rail out and bend it slightly?[quoted image]
You have to "shape" the round stock so as to fit into the posts...
Some times you have to feed the rail to the left or right to find the 'sweet spot'.
Quoted from Quench:You've got the wires soldered on the wrong lugs (backwards). Swap them around so the white-red wire connects to the diode lug on the side and the brown wires go where the white-red currently are.
Ding,ding. "I'll buy that for a dollar".
Quoted from djblouw:So why are there two numbers stamped on the head?
I know what the top one is, and it matches the cab and boards.
The lower one is not a sequence I’ve ever seen before.
[quoted image]
EFA4466= Electronic Fathom #4466
LO9584= Location #9584
Quoted from dluth:I'm having trouble with my Embryon auxiliary lamps (ie the wheel lamps, single drop target lamps, flipsave etc). They are all out.
I have a Future Spa next door and I was wondering if I could put that auxiliary lamp board (which is a AS-2518-43) into my Embryon (which is a AS-2518-52) to see if the problem is with the board?
Hopefully one of you bally experts can help!
What about the ground to the AUX board.
Quoted from dluth:Thanks - good to start with the simple things!
I discovered there is no continuity between the ground braid and TP2 where there is supposed to be. Also no continuity between the back plate and the ground braid. I can't see where ground is supposed to connect to this which I assume it is supposed to?
[quoted image]
Test: A9J1-15 wire (58) White/Black to A5J4-11 (58) White/Black to A2J3-4 (58) White/Black.
------A9J1-15 usually burns.
Quoted from hisokajp:I am looking for "split metal post" (if that the right names for it), the ones that stack on top of each other, usually with a clear plastic sandwiched below the silkscreened plastic.
I can't find them anywhere though i may be looking for the wrong name?
Below pictures (borrows from one of HEP project)
[quoted image]
Two separate items.
1) bottom is a metal bell spacer...
--- Williams' ref. it as a Support Post.
--- Williams Part No.
--- 20-8926 Height 35/64"
2) top piece is a spacer...
--- Bally ref. it as Support Spacer
--- Bally Part No.
--- C-942 + length clarification.
Quoted from hisokajp:right, these seems to be the one, but unavailable anywhere for sale right?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926
Those are the narrow version that Williams used as the
top spacers/bottom spacers on their games...
Bally used a wider diameter part. But it is the "right family"
for the part.
https://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/20A-8926-1/large.jpg
More metal posts/standoffs for plastic pieces...
Quoted from hisokajp:right, these seems to be the one, but unavailable anywhere for sale right?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926
I found this Bally part No. It is for the top support
Metal post part No. M-1337. narrow style.
Quoted from guitarded:Anyone know what size/thread screw Bally used for Switch Retainer Brackets?
Just finished up the Flipper Rebuilds on my Paragon and the new switches on the main flippers are too thick and I can't land them with the original screws. Nothing in fine thread and that small at my local Hardware Stores.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Metal switch screws are 5-40th thread + head type +length.
Quoted from Jakers:I’m having a problem with one of my Bally Future Spa displays. My 10’s digit isn’t working correctly. I’ve swapped the display around and the problem follows with the display. I’ve already put in a new level shifter and digit driver at Q2 and Q8. I’ve also put in a new decoder chip. According to the pinwiki...
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Display.28s.29_flicker
...my next step would be to replace the segment drivers at Q13 through Q19, but as you can see from the pictures some of the segments work randomly when showing different digits.
Has anyone else ran onto this problem? I have enough segment drivers to replace all of them but don’t want to waste my time if anyone knows that won’t help this particular problem.
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Units digit is drawing all the juice? Isolate the units digit and see if that fixes the tens digit.
Quoted from arqpuebla:Greatings to all,
I'm finishing restoring a space invaders, and the MPU its crazy.
I do have all the led flickers ok , but after a minute it start doing some kind of self test as you can see in the video.
Yesterday sometimes didn't wanted to boot, and sometimes I got all the 7 led flashers, but then It locks, I mean no attract mode, just a number for lights turned on steady and nothing more.
All male and female connectors were changed (on the entire machine) , I have 5,2v 11v and 43v on MPU test points. All the components on the rectifier board and solenoid board were already serviced / replaced.
Removed all the ICs socketed on the MPU and installed again , with no change.
ICs sockets on the MPU are the original ones, I have not replaced them.
What is that test? and why starts after boot?
Will appreciate any help.
here is the video.
Note: unplug the bottom left cpu connector to the cabinet switches.
1) reboot game wait... does it go in test?
A1) yes, then problem is on cpu switch buffer components...
A2) no, then problem is in the wiring, test switch that is part of the cabinet.
Quoted from kursiv:Can’t get a plastic coil sleeve to fit in the 5050. Hole is just a tiny bit narrower.
A metal sleeve fits but a bit old school for a replacement..
Sandpaper and round dowel.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I seem to recall reading about some slight differences in the Bally -35 boards where resistor values were changed to alter the display timing. Is that documented somewhere on what values were used with each machine? Also, any other differences in the -35 boards that may cause issues with moving boards around? That may explain an issue I see with at least one of the two troublesome boards I have left to fix.
I've been working through a stack of -35 boards (history unknown) and have all of them working perfectly except for 2 boards. They boot fine on the bench and run ok in my Elektra but both have different odd behavior. My Elektra has proven to be a good machine to run boards that look ok on the bench and if anything is even slightly off will show up in that machine.
Board #1 - This one runs and plays fine in Elektra. However when getting to the lower playfield 3 lamps are stuck on with this MPU installed. PIA's were tested and swapped with another board with no change. Going to go back over this board with Leon's test ROM with both the logic probe and scope to compare to a known working board. Once the lamp issue is resolved this board should be good.
Board #2 - This is an odd one. Board boots and run fine in Elektra. All lamps work and game plays well. I just notice that when this board boots that the startup sound I normally hear is different from all the other MPU boards so something is off. Otherwise it seems to work ok. Once I get that fixed this one should be good too.
Even though these do run they aren't done until they pass my Elektra test. If anyone has seen similar symptoms what did you find?
#1 cpu check the 5101 ram... lamps are controled by the 5101 ram cells.
Quoted from hisokajp:gapping doesn't look bad though the switches look kinda worn, you cleaned them I assume? Maybe it's worth trying to replace the top Switch that activate your upper flipper with a new one?
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html
I concur.
Quoted from Jason43:Anyone know off hand what size flipper coil sleeves Lost World uses? Marco doesn't have any listed and i don't have the manual nearby.
Bally OEM coil sleeves for Bally products are 1/2" X 1-11/16"
Wico #56-073400
Quoted from jardine:Now that Marco's has finally dropped the price of shipping I'm stocking up on some much needed parts.
Can anyone confirm this is the right switch for my Harlem flipper please: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A365-00046-0000
Thanks again guys.
Looks good to me.
That switch assembly is for the lower left flipper.
Bally OEM was two separate switches put together to make a "break-then-make"
EOS switch.
All other flippers should have single EOS switches.
Quoted from EEE:Toasted coils on a “project” Harlem GT probably related to the lack of ground in above post 2392.
Both upper saucer kickouts, one jet bumper, one slingshot and the knocker.
The plungers are all frozen solid!
[quoted image]
Are the coils related to one CA3081 U3?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15
Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29
Skateball B all 2716 Eproms: E1-E5,E2-E4,E7-E8,E11-E25,E10-E12,E13A-E14,
------------------------------ E31-E32,E33-E34,E16A-E19,E26-E29,E28-E30.
Quoted from djblouw:I’m looking for the size of the common nail that is used in classic Bally games. This is the nail usually found under the sling plastics.
Try a Finishing nail [ 15 Gauge x 1-½" ].
Quoted from FatPanda:Ok, now I'm really confused. There are some GI that are connected to controlled lamps.
This braiding route was taken directly from the original playfield.[quoted image]
Emperor Ming is a lamp feature.
Quoted from Chalkey:Has anybody come up with a more elegant solution to the saucer ball rest being broken than the previous owner of my HGT?[quoted image]
I had a guy many years ago make the thin metal prong strip out of stainless steel.
I wish I had more made....
Quoted from gdonovan:Yes.
Original post below with some details. I used 10 pin arrays which left me short on a single line in two spots but if you look close in the picture above you can see where I just added a pair of 470 ohm resistors and tied them in. My Xenon looks SWEET with LED's now. The playfield just pops.
"One other DIY method that wasn't mentioned above is soldering SIP resistors soldered directly to the back of the board (Vid had posted a picture of this in another thread). You're out total cost of some SIP resistors & wire, so probably looking at $1.20-1.50 per header that way. Common pin on the SIPs get bent up or snipped higher than the board (so they aren't shorting to anything), then those pins are tied together with wire running between them & the wire then ties into the feature lamp bus. The other pins on the SIPs (individual resistors) get soldered to the 2.54mm header positions. It has the benefit that you're looking at & re-soldering practically every header pin on the board, which is usually needed anyway since there are almost always a few cracked/cold solder joints on those headers. I thought that was pretty clever, not sure Vid if you came up with that or someone else did.. but a great DIY method IMO."
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-ballystern-led-adapter-kit-review#post-1812416
[quoted image]
You could run a blue wire to add the lamp +6 volt to one of the pins that is not used...
that way, it is an all in one.
Quoted from FatPanda:I've added pieces of clear packing tape to the coil stops, which I read somewhere else, and the flippers don't stick, but I'd like a more permanent solution.
Check the base plate for any bowing... check the coil for any off angle...
check the lever assembly... the nylon actuator/lever must be horizontal...
the long plunger should never be able to rotate on it center point...only very slightly...
check the nylon bushing...check the angle of the coil stop...
*******************************************************
Note: Take a coil stop assembly and fasten the short angle into a vice.
------ Take a large flat screw driver and slightly insert it into the back side of the stop.
------ Carefully pull up the back side of the stop... it is only a slight movement...
------ The coil stop should now have a very slight angle forward.
------ Refasten the coil stop to the flipper bracket base.
Quoted from Chalkey:They seem unobtanium. Do you by chance know where they might be in stock or is it pretty much find somebody parting out or that has one laying around in a bin?
I had a machine shop make the part in the middle... Spot weld the missing part...
Note:
Des-assembled the part first... made a pattern of the broken part out of a chip board cereal box...
Then found a sheet metal shop that could cut and bend the shape of the part...
Spot weld, paint, reassemble, ready to go and back in business.
Quoted from gdonovan:Anyone know what the part number is for Bally playfield hangers for Flash Gordon? I'm assuming games like Vector, Xenon and Elektra are the same as they have the lower shooter rod location. I can't seem to find the part number in the online catalogs and I'm looking for something comparable.
[quoted image]
Need to fabricate... Thin bar stock.
Quoted from gdonovan:They are unique, different from other Ballys due to dropped playfield. I'll measure after work today.
I would inquire... the dropped playfields are deferent length. I think it is going to be a special order.
Quoted from gdonovan:Difference between standard playfield (Space Invaders) and Flash Gordon.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I had a machinist make some parts for me and made the round bends more rounded
so the stresses wound be reduced, and not let the parts break at the bend points.
Quoted from gdonovan:I already have and we are talking, its a possibility. Would just have to send them the part, measurements are not good enough.
I would make a masking tape pattern from both sides.
Quoted from northvibe:was replacing the coil sleeve on a Bally Kiss for the right sling and the coil stop just fell out. Looks like it broke at the bend of the bracket. Are there new brackets or is this some weld/jbweld job?
[quoted image]
Your OEM part can be rewelded... The coil stop is Bally.
I have a machine shop that has rewelded many Bally parts to keep the games
I am fixing working.
Note: only do the sides... "No mans land" is in the inside middle of the bracket.
Quoted from northvibe:Edit:
So the left upper middle behind the drops use a 5” rubber?? Geez, that’s huge. No one has a colored 5”.
The rubber ring is:
Bally part N0. R-521-7 4" Qty (2)
Bally doubled the rubber rings for playfields with drop targets.
All Bally D/T rubber rings are doubled to keep the ball from getting stuck.
Later revisions have metal shims between each drop targets.
Quoted from Mathazar:This is driving me nuts tonight - I lost my little plastic tool that helps release the PCBs from the plastic mounting supports in the backback. It's about 4 or 5 inches long, hollow, and fits perfectly over the plastic mounting flanges poking through on the PCB so that the board can be released from the support and lifted out.
What the heck is that tool called? I need to buy another one.
Hobby stores have the bass tubing.
Quoted from guitarded:I am Mid-Swap on a Skateball PF...rebuiling the drop mechs right now.
Question : Do I have to remove the lower ledger on the New Drop Targets? None of the originals that are in there have the lower ledge except one replacement that looks like it was sitting too high compared to all the others.
Thanks in advance. Just trying to save myself a repeat teardown when I put these back together.
If you are asking about the bottom tab on the drop target, then keep it.
The Bally drop target mold was redesigned.
Best practice:
1) Rebuild drop target assembly with new style drop targets and test install on to the playfield.
1a) Do the drop targets fit and work O.K.?
1b)Are the drop targets flush with the playfield when dropped?
Answer: Yes
Then all is good, finish instillation.
Answer: No.
2) Are drop targets setting to high when in the downed position? Then cut bottom tab.
2a) Test and check work for other obstruction.
No sound with the video...
1) Refresh the caps on sound board..
2) Bally's normally have a low the high frequency hum..
--- timed to high score...
3) Some Pinsiders have had techniques to isolate the sound board
--- from the rest of the game's circuitry.
Quoted from Guzz4851:Classic Stern stuck in attract mode.. won’t credit up. Coin slot switches won’t work, jumping switches didn’t work, jumping plug pins inside coin door didn’t work…there has to be a way to add credits and play. Not sure why the coin switches aren’t working. Found this and tried jumping these colored wires inside coin door. No luck. Any ideas?
[quoted image]
I would start with the cpu switch input connectors.
A4J3-2 to A4J3-9,-10,-11,-12,-13,-14,-15,-16.
If they work, then check connector pins .100 etc.
Quoted from Jodannar:I didn’t get a reply from my earlier post so will also the question again. What are people using for replacement grounding under the lockdown bar and coin door mechanism when the old aluminium stripping is rusted/broken? Regular ground braid or is there an era appropriate substitution ?
Some companies offer grounding straps... flat bar style and braided wire.
Bally playfield switch wiring Note:
Bally switched wire color sequences on ST1 and ST2.
From MPU A4J2.
1) Old Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 93 ]
ST2 [ 52 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
up to Bally Hotdoggin / Viking.
--------------------------------
Starting with Skateball
2) New Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 70 ]
ST2 [ 93 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
--
Also "L" target bracket changed from just two holes to
one of the holes being more oblong adjustable.
Quoted from bluebomber:Does anyone have a source for head/backbox hinges? I have the bottoms, but I need the tops (or a complete set)
You have to specify which game... three or four versions.
Note: Bally Flash Gordon's Back box hinge are designed to be one directional.
------ The head slides off from the left hand side of the game. Two wood blocks
------ mounted to the underside of the head pivot, where used to keep the head
------ on; in the down position. Do Not Transport this game with the head down!
------ unless you secured the head to the body with a strap. I have a sad tale of making
------ a sharp right turn with this game in the back of my truck... and watched in horror from my
------ review mirror as the back box went flying off and into the street...
Quoted from Quench:Wonder if it's the chime version of the sound board. Hard to tell if the serial number on the sound board is the same as the solenoid driver board.
I believe the early snd board can be jumperd for chime tones versus the noise generator.
Quoted from Nokoro:What makes that an EM cabinet besides the chimes? My Paragon cabinet looks like that sans the chimes. It’s also splitting at the seams, and I’ll need to address that soon.
If you look at the support brackets they have the four holes to mount the main
bottom assembly to an electro-mechanical Bally pinball. It would be interesting
if the "T"-nuts are still installed in the support brackets, or not.
Also, it has the square wedge back support; for the weight of the transformer.
Quoted from emsrph:The ball shooter bushing broke on my #hgt. It looks to be part C-934
Out of stock at Marco. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/0017-00042-0347
Looked on PBR site and they have Gottlieb B-8834. Will that part substitute?
Thanks
Quoted from djblouw:For the linear sling shot mech, what is the correct nyliner?
I purchased the 7/16" one from Pinball Life, but they are too small (they fit the hole opening, but the plunger has no movement).
Try:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790-5
Quoted from RatShack:Yes, you are correct. Didn't realize they were bell posts. Great info. I'll have to try fabricating them by hand and find a solution for a split post.
Too add from Zitt ... Bally use thicker clear plastic for the EM pinballs.
I would suggest using a polycarbonate type clear plastic.
Quoted from mrm_4:Yeah I guess
I know I needed them for my Firepower resto. Seems a ton of Bally and Williams games had’m
I think they’re one of those things that if they were available they’d probably sell out all the time.
I had a longtime pinsider that used to be on this form, make me a few out of aluminum.
That was many years ago.
Quoted from hisokajp:My Frontier came without
Bally Frontier never had backbox hinges.
1) 1st game is Flash Gordon.
2) I believe there are three style variations for the early 80's style cabinet. (pre TNT)
Quoted from hisokajp:well the boys in the Frontier owner club confirmed they do have hinges on their game and mine has screws holes on where they should have been It must have been on the cutoff with some with and some without then?
I would love to see pictures!
Bally must have been experimenting with cabinet designs...
Is your cabinet pedestal neck cut to take the metal assemblies?
I know they where doing PCB designs years before implementations.
They must have been doing the same thing with the cabinets...
Update, I just finally saw a Frontier with the backbox hinges. ( here on Pinside )
WOW.
That is the 1st generation style hinge, and the backbox head has the wedge blocks underneath.
The backbox head slides to the left to come off after the right backbox block is removed.
Danger: the head should be strapped down to the main cabinet if moving with the head down.
I had a horrible accident with the Flash Gordon I had.
Bally's next game EBD would make a slight change to the hinges. ( left and right sides )
Bally would change the cabinet pedestal and hinges again on Centaur.
Quoted from hisokajp:that's what mine looks like-
[quoted image][quoted image]
Fascinating. Does the front part of the pedestal have the wedge cut,
or is it flat straight down to the body?
Looks like yours is designed to use only wood screws.
Quoted from FatPanda:My Fathom has hinges in the opposite direction as well...wasn't sure if this was normal or not but it sounds like an operator request or install?
Starting with EBD left and right hinges where installed.
Quoted from hisokajp:the MOV is burnt to a crisp
Classic Bally's use VAC not MOV. For the input to the line filter.
Quoted from hisokajp:I saw in the parts manual they use a "110v Varistor (E-713)" though i have been advised and replaced them on my Classic Stern and Bally with a 10vv MOV you can find on most pinball sites (5017-09044-00 at PBL for example).
Is that not right?
MOV is a current suppressor. They are used in series for WPC pinballs.
VAR are used in parallel across the input voltage.
You can use a MOV has an input to the linefilter after the VAR.
I have never done it... I did replace a MOV on a Williams IJ Adventure.
Quoted from hisokajp:that is weird, multiple thread and highly skilled restoration pinheads are using MOV as far as I can see:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945122
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/27#post-4702789
The HEP thread is correct VAR.
Like what Bally has in their schematics... Not MOV as in WPC systems.
Quoted from FatPanda:Skateball tilt
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
1) Cut one leg of the switch capacitor.
if
a) problem goes away, usually it is a bad capaitor.
b) problem stays, check switch stacks for current, continuity short.
b1) switch stacks can have some kind of residue that draws a minute amount of current.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:.zero head bolts.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:What length are these?
Answer: Bally OEM EM style neck backbox bolts are 3½" long.
Note: measure back of pedestal neck the height should be 1½".
----- add thick fender washers to the bolts.
----- I have spot welded two washers together to get the thick style finder washers.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:So... what's the trick to removing these rails? Pry under and work it upward until it's loose enough to pull off? These things are TIGHT!
[quoted image]
I was able to remove by pulling apart longways by hand...It's not fun...
Sometimes you can pull out the long staple from the bottom playfield with a tool,
it does tear up the bottom OEM playfield.
1) If you have strong hands you can grasp the side rails [ from the one end and work long ways ]
--- and bend the rails slightly out [ left or right ] from sides of the playfield... this should give
--- a small air gap from rail to the playfield.
2) Then pull each side rail up long ways [ like opening an alligator mouth ].
Side Note: I am working on a Bally game also, and the prior person used a screw driver
---------- to remove the soft wood side rails. In turn, damaged/chewed/gnarled each of
---------- the side pieces.
---------- I do not recommend a flat screw driver.
Quoted from NPO:All right - did some searching for the stationary targets on Harlem. It is the (5) red stationary targets to the far left of the playfield. Part #: ase-2911-31, #17 in the referenced photo below:
[quoted image]
I noticed that #18 looks very similar to what I am looking for; however, it has a different part #.
Again, I am still on temporary assignment in Oklahoma, so I cannot lift my PF and look until I get home - hence, all my questions this last week or two. Is there a cross-referenced part for ASE-2911-31? If it involves soldering or adding components like a diode or something to an stand-up target, no problem, very handy with that kind of work.
Thanks!
Bally part #
ASE-2911-3 == round red target front mount "L" bracket,
-------------- complete assembly with diode.
ASE-2911-31 == round red target back mount "L" bracket,
-------------- complete assembly with diode.
Quoted from NPO:Work continues on Harlem Globetrotters. Got a fair number of the playfield lights working, installed the new backbox lock, and got all new trim for the backglass installed!
Noted my top left flipper stopped working and saw this thick yellow wire hanging loosely. I am sure this is the cause of the top left flipper not responding; however, I am hesitant to take a guess on which coil lug it is normally installed on. I highlighted the wire with a red rectangle to help make it more identifiable:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I checked the wiring schematics in the HG manual, but I didn't see anything in the manual that would help me deduce where this wire is supposed to go.
Anybody willing to look under their HG PF and take a quick look for me? Or if someone knows where this wire should be re-soldered to, I'd be very appreciative!
The wire "Brown" goes to the top flipper coil. +43Volts... Cathode side of the flipper coil
The cathode is the silver band side of the diode.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Yes, I’ve lifted the playfield. Same thing. As I said, I agree that something is touching something, which is why I’m pulling my hair out. I just can’t find it.
If there’s another plausible reason, I can dig into that. If not, then I’ll keep poking around.
Are you sure, any of the lamp socket's backs are not touching the playfield hangers?
Quoted from Mudflaps:Ha, thanks. Here’s the video if you’re curious. Look for the smoke toward the bottom right.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Hi fellow bally enthusiasts!
I’m in need of some parts to bring an Embryon that was parted out back to life
Can you guys please help me source some parts to buy?
Backbox Lamp/display panel (with or without harness)
Backbox harness
4 popbumper mechs
(1x) 3 bank drop target mech
(1x) 1 bank drop target mech
Plastic Posts, screws, mini posts
Yellow and red targets
Thank you for any help
Bally's Emdryon is such a rare game. Sad to here about the condition.
Quoted from Alan_L:Looking for a supplier for the C26 capacitor on Bally/Stern solenoid driver boards. They were custom made for Ed at GPE, but with his recent loss he is closing down his business, is out of stock on them and probably won't be receiving any more.
The cap is 150uF, 350 VDC, axial. I have searched Jameco, Mouser and a number of other sites to no avail. Richey will make you 100 with 28 weeks notice.
Does anyone out there have another source?
TRY:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CDE-Illinois-Capacitor/107TTA350M?qs=3tP%252BN51vMXcmcGDbhPL69A%3D%3D
It's not exact, but close.
Quoted from BigAl56:A common problem from that era as there was a defect in the die Bally used to stamp out that part of the frame.
The factory fix was to install a thin breaking rod through the side holes in the target frame. This dampens the upward travel of the target bracket.
I found that the phenolic links are a smidge to short.
If the reset plunger links were just a bit longer the D/T would not be thrown so high off the glides.
Quoted from GoldenOreos:pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sadly, the EOS switch assemblies that are on your game are for Bally Space Invaders
Top mini flippers. Another hard-to-find set of parts destroyed.
Quoted from splattii:I'm working on a Supersonic. Everything works but the target bank isn't resetting during the game. Each target scores, the entire bank resets at the start of each ball (after a drain), but once all 5 targets are hit , even though they score, they stay down until next ball. This is the first time I've encountered this, usually it's a pin/connector issue or bad contact, but in this case the contacts and connectors are fine since the switches are scoring. Any suggestions?
I have encountered flaky 1N4004 diodes on the solenoid transistor driver board.
You could change the one that drives the reset D/T solenoid for your game.
Quoted from Power87:Your F1 fuse holder looks pretty crispy. Where they're recently replaced or are they burnt?
That is a beryllium coating.
Quoted from JethroP:On my EBD, when I go into self test, nothing happens after the switch test. In other words, press once and test lights. Press again tests displays. Press again tests solenoids. Press again tests sounds. Press again tests switches. Press again.....nothing. Keep pressing....nothing. Test goes dead after the switch test. What's up? Other than that, game plays fine.
Ram needs clearout.
Quoted from northvibe:Missing the coin plate on this stern magic, is there a place to get those to fix this?
[quoted image]
I believe swinks reproduced them.
Quoted from swinks:Marco are selling the parts don't always match the pictures
Bally flipper parts made offshore all screw holes where metric! Ugh!, had to re-tap
threaded screw holes so as the right key wrenches and screws would work.
Quoted from gdonovan:Vector, Medusa & Mr and Mrs Pacman had playfield displays was so Bally could get rid of the remaining stock.
Also remember Williams came out with Hyperball with the first custom playfield display.
Quoted from sullivcd40:Has anyone stenciled a Dolly cabinet? I can’t find an owners club and I’m looking for colors.
I think the pinky red is rubin red.
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Sewickley, PA
Toronto, ON
