(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,896 posts
  • 370 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 minutes ago by JustEverett
  • Topic is favorited by 288 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider swinks.
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#665 6 years ago

Finally joined the club in a unique way......

I am doing a scratch build doing a custom pinball with a new full set of alltek boards that just arrived and pinscore displays. I have a long way to go and might need a little help along the way. The game will be using most of the features and rule set of Skateball.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tube-time-custom-surfing-pin

where can get new leads that go between the boardset and the 5 displays from ?

any help would be much appreciated.

#667 6 years ago

thanks heaps for that, will contact him

3 weeks later
#695 6 years ago

great idea, will remember that one

2 months later
#762 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I have 2 Dolly Partons on the way and a NOS playfield. Will be a fun project.
I was wanting to know if there is a way to add some of Dollys songs to the game and still have the factory sounds. has anyone ever tackled something like this?

you could simply add a WAV Trigger board, handles WAV sound tracks, sounds etc and allows for 16 trigger switches, eg ball goes in the shooter lane (add a switch if one not there) and starts a song, ball drains and ends the song, ball 2 goes into the shooter lane and next some or randomised song then starts playing.

You can then add other switches for other sounds in the game and those sounds can easily be set to play and end other sounds or they can overlap - very cool little board.

9 months later
#1071 5 years ago

does anyone have a photo of the back of a Skateball Backglass?

8 months later
#1516 5 years ago

Question for the AS-2518 enthusiasts here, as I have not played many of these games due to not many being sited / available to play, what games of the Stern Category and then the Bally Category have the best rules? If possible don't worry about the art and layout as I am more focusing on the games features (drops etc) and mainly RULES.

Stern -

Bally -

#1521 5 years ago

Thanks guys, and interesting, will have to check them out...

I honestly thought fathom may have got a mention, but maybe the art is one of the bonuses there as I did ask based on rules

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1 year later
#2024 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Thanks to the BOTH of you.
Now I think I might need some Pink Ones for my Dolly Parton.

yep, now available in 10 different colours so you can customise your game a little

#2031 3 years ago

just uploaded a new product to Shapeways - Roll Over Button now EXTENDED 1mm more to accommodate the Outer Edge Hardtop playfield overlays. They still will seat the same into the playfield and connect the same under the playfield but have 1mm extension in the head to accomodate the Hardtop thickness. Available as singles or in sets of 5 in multiple colours.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksbutton&sort=newest

Rollover comparison - Standard vs Extended (resized).pngRollover comparison - Standard vs Extended (resized).png

3 weeks later
#2149 3 years ago

just finished the left and right bracket for bally drop targets P-7939-1 in regular and reinforced in 2 different options.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdrops&sort=newest

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8 months later
#2491 3 years ago

as per a few posts above the drop target brackets are printed in metal and very strong, my GB target brackets take a pounding. The original metal brackets crack and break so a plastic one will not hold. Here is the range of reproduction parts

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksreproduction&sort=newest

1 month later
#2539 3 years ago

the new kicker guides can be found here, single or twin pack (which you need to trim back but saves a few dollars)

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-972-3parts

I know these are used on a Fathom, what other games are they on

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2 months later
#2615 2 years ago

does anyone have early Bally Back Box dimensions (of a Kiss, Skateball or Fathom era game) and / or full cabinet dimensions if possible

fathom back box sizes (resized).pngfathom back box sizes (resized).png
#2617 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Be aware that Fathom and later games have a slimmer backbox design than other games of that era.

ok thanks - good to know

can anyone help with some dimensions of a Fathom sized backbox

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#2619 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Head = 10 1/8” from front to back at the top
Front to back on bottom = 9”
Front trim to rear edge side panel (stencil area) = 6.75”
Height = 27 5/8”
Width = 30 1/4”

Thankyou Mudflaps I will draw up and post here and see if I need anything else to confirm

#2620 2 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Head = 10 1/8” from front to back at the top
Front to back on bottom = 9”
Front trim to rear edge side panel (stencil area) = 6.75”
Height = 27 5/8”
Width = 30 1/4”

here is a sketch, can you or anyone please check and confirm that I interpreted your measurements correctly please - imperial in [ ]

I also guessed a few dimensions so if you can check and confirm what D, E, F, G are that would be awesome.

A - 27 5/8" (Height)
B - 30 1/4" (Width)
C - 6 3/4" (Rear of Trim to Back Edge)
D - ? (height of the outer trim - I guessed 1")
E - ? (step back of outer trim to the backbox ply - I guessed 1 3/4")
F - ? (start of key recess - I guessed 1 1/4")
G - ? (total width of key recess - I guessed a 90 cut with sides measuring 2")
H - 10 1/8" (width at the top)
J - 9" (width at the bottom)

and if you know the thickness of the back panel that would be great as well, thanks.

Early 80's Bally BackBox copy (resized).jpgEarly 80's Bally BackBox copy (resized).jpg

I hunted some images down and found Drano s build from 5 years ago
4a0928e4d571c2e0190092e2d4647b3136a48323 (resized).jpg4a0928e4d571c2e0190092e2d4647b3136a48323 (resized).jpg
c3c31cffb1d9e1a72de90696bff5274c8f6d3b04 (resized).jpgc3c31cffb1d9e1a72de90696bff5274c8f6d3b04 (resized).jpg

any addition info like what games these were used on and other details would be much appreciated as then it can also become a resource for others

7 months later
#2948 2 years ago

a Pinsider asked me to recreate the Molex 03-06-2242 Female side so designed it up and tested it and looks and works well - not the cheapest but better than obsolete.

Molex 1 (resized).jpgMolex 1 (resized).jpgMolex 2 (resized).jpgMolex 2 (resized).jpg
#2962 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

google could only find the SW one?
[quoted image]

use pinball search to find parts

https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=switch%20fish%20paper

#2967 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

ohhhh i did not know about that though mostly what i found already haha i guess i ll add one of those in my next Digikey order
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/gc-electronics/560/257752

even better, nice find

1 year later
#3809 76 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Missing the coin plate on this stern magic, is there a place to get those to fix this?
[quoted image]

have a number of repro parts available including tombstone drops etc
https://swinks.com.au/reproduction-parts-1

or directly at Shapeways in the US to save on postage I have a few in stock cheaper but the freight would kill it unless you bundled some drops with them etc
https://www.shapeways.com/product/WV6TYWTKB/80-s-stern-ss-pinball-coin-plate-chute?optionId=43403498&li=marketplace

#3817 75 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Awesome, thank you. Is there any repro “quarter” plate/windows?

yeah I don't make the windows, sorry

#3818 75 days ago
Quoted from ant_:

Marco sells their coin entry plates separately from the price plates.
[quoted image]Swinks and Siegecraft have them, too.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/WV6TYWTKB/80-s-stern-ss-pinball-coin-plate-chute
https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=78&controller=product&id_lang=1

just a word of warning, with some other parts that Marco are selling the parts don't always match the pictures - sometimes different materials & colours and though they are not mentioning it are 3d printed as well.

3d printed SLS is ideally what you want as will be solid nylon particles - professional printed parts

3d printed FDM is filament printing and will often be partially hollow and subject to heat - home printed parts

FDM printing has improved alot recently but am cautious with heat tolerances especially if you are using bulbs (not leds) close to those parts

#3820 75 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Agreed. Last year I got a Williams credit button from Marco's for my Black Knight restoration and was really disappointed to receive a 3D printed part because the description didn't mention 3D printed at all, just "White plastic pushbutton reproduction". I don't mind using 3D printed parts, but this one felt rough to the touch and not at all like the smooth, molded plastic of the original. Since this is a high touch point part that people interact with, I just spent more time bleaching my yellowed original back to an acceptable shade of white and used that instead. I sent an email to Marco's to explain my disappointment, and they credited me (no pun intended) my $4.50 back without needing to return the 3D printed part. Can't complain about that...sometimes their prices are high and the product descriptions can sometimes be better, but they've always taken care of me.

I am not suggesting Marco are doing this intentionally but for a few years they were buying my parts from Shapeways and then they started getting their own parts made - I am positive their parts are Shapeways made parts as well, which I respect.

BUT what Shapeways recently did (in the last 6 months) is to every listed product in the library of parts (of all the designers) is that they automatically opened up the option of BASIC NYLON. This option was purely created to keep there machines running at all times as opposed to sitting idle. But after diving into some of their documentation this option does not include post processing (polishing / tumbling) resulting in a rougher part. In addition they (Shapeways) gets to choose if it is grey or white. White is SLS (laser bound nylon particles) and Grey is MJF (glue bound nylon particles).

I recently saw someone ordered a Bally ball launch arm which Marco advertised as white but customer got a grey one and then it snapped. The issue is Grey / MJF which is sharper in detail BUT is not great for ball impact parts as the nylon particles are bound by glue and not a laser so fail suddenly.

I personally had to go through my parts catalogue and remove this "BASIC NYLON" option as while the better price is inviting for customers the quality is rough and not all parts can be grey / MJF as they will fail which I need to ensure does not happen and some people hope to get a white part and not grey.

Hope the info helps some people.

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