Hard to tell from the photo how you have your DMM set up. However if you are seeing 60 volts you may be set to DC volts instead of AC volts. Because the signal is oscillating you will only see about half of the amplitude of an AC signal on a DC meter setting. Also check that the probes are in the correct holes on the DMM. There is usually 3 ... one common but the two other ones are for different functions. Both the switch and the leads need to be correctly set up for AC.

Also "feel" for the ribbing in the edges of wires. One outside edge should feel smooth and round, and the other outside edge will have a fine rib along it. I think they designed if for blind electricians

Similar to other relays that stay on longer like tilt relays and game over relays and coin lockout relays.

Looks like the table is just the wiring for the door plug connector. J1 is that connector which has its own pinout (if you had a spec for that type of connector) and it’s showing which wires go back to the other connectors. Sort of repeats what’s on the other part of the schematic from what I can see.

I think your correct in that you should be checking back to A2J2 pins 1 and 5.

If there’s no continuity someone may have wired the door plug incorrectly or it’s broken.

If it’s what I think you’re looking at and asking, the rectumfiers are in the backside of the board so they are up against the metal heat sink to dissipate heat... which is why they don’t use discretes on the top side like the repair job was.

Here here!! He also put heat sinks with fins on the front I believe... much easier to deal with and more air flow to cool the diode bridges.

Ceramic... around the fuse wire. Helps dissipate the heat.

Definitely... probably some other application like an appliance. I often have a hard time finding fuses at a hardware store instead of an electronics store... there’s so few of them now. If it was able to force fit.. ok. But check the value to be sure it’s correct. When it’s ever replaced you’ll likely need to squeeze the clips together again.

What’s on the top side? Some of the traces look like they are going to pads that have nothing in them from the top of the board. Maybe he just put resistors on the botttom that are normally on the top if it was easier.... lots of other components or hard area to work in. If it’s right in front of the display digits that’s a hard space to work in... the display itself likely went on last in manufacturing after all the resistors are populated... hard to work on later without taking the displays off first.

To debug temperature sensitive circuit boards we used to use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to localize the heat, and/or a spray can of cooling liquid. Start with a cool board and then blow heat on a chip to see if you can accelerate the "improve" time... or wait til it's working in its good state and use a cooling spray to bring down the temp of one part at a time until it goes bad again.

Check schematic. Assuming from photo it’s all the controlled lights that are on when should not be? ... see where special light is connected in relation to all the lights that are coming on... whats common to them?

Before you get to Special state, do all the controlled lights turn on when they are supposed to?

I get the same in Paragon. It processes the saucer or other stuff before it comes around and checks on the spinner again. I Don't think you can change that, it's built into the sequence that the mpu cycles around checking all the inputs from the matrix. It becomes part of the gameplay to try to keep the ball bouncing around and not going into the saucer until you're spinner in done. My spinner goes long enough that after processing the saucer it will still register a few more spinner lights.

Started a separate thread for an unstable Paragon system:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-paragon-system-unstable#post-4747454

Thanks!

I don't think your scope settings would make your pin not reset

Clock actually doesn't look too bad IMHO. Unless it's not getting high enough to register as a "1". The oscillation would need to be big enough to go below a "1" level and back up again to cause it to double clock. You could try putting a high value capacitor across the power and ground of the chip (you'd need look up the chip to see which pins they are.)

Set up your scope and just manually put a cap across the two pins to see if it cleans up your signal. If it does see if the system will boot.

If you're hitting 4v or higher on the high you should be good.