Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
BMX
Bally, 1982
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider roygbev.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Looking for factory style plastic standoffs for the AS-2518-18 or -49 rectifier board. Thought this Marco part might be right but someone else says it may not be. Can anyone verify vendor/PN for this part?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9658-2
Thanks
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Got a local friend wanting to trade me his Stern Wild Fyre (mostly working) for my William's Stellar wars (fully working) condition is pretty much the same on both machines. I know how to work on machines and he doesnt.
Value seems to be pretty similar. Thoughts?
Wild Fyre all the way IMO.
The SB-100 in Wild Fyre usually has the high pitch tones. You can adjust it lower to sound like the later SB-100 games (example: Hot Hand). I did that in mine and put in a big bass-heavy speaker I had laying around, and positioned it so it can be felt through the side rails when playing. Cheap bass beats cheap squeaks.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Success! Wild fyre is fully working once again.
Where is the adjust for tone sounds? Is it on the AUX sound board mounted to the side inside the backbox?
I didn't change any components on my Wild Fyre, just adjusted the pots. It had the less populated rev. 2 board, which only works when the MPU is set to "computer sounds" option (see the manual).
If you have no musical ability, like me, it helps to have a frequency counter to get the three tones proportionally adjusted. A lot of multimeters have a frequency setting. I used my ancient Fluke 83.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:I may have a cheap bass speaker laying around. Can you show me how you hooked it up? Im interested.
No longer have the game. I just hooked it up in place of the original speaker. I kept the original speaker and plywood frame in the game, and mounted the new one over the cabinet crossmember, using two screws on diagonal mounts. No need to cut a hole or do anything permanent. It sounded fine and you could feel the bass from the side rails when playing. Just messing around, ymmv, experiment if you feel comfortable.
The original speaker is 6.4 ohms. You should probably use a speaker with >= impedance (8 ohm for example).
Quoted from Jakers:How would I go about isolating that unit digit?
R3 is a 100K resistor in the 10's digit driver circuit. Try replacing that. The 100K resistors (R1,3,5,7,9, and 11) sometimes go bad, turning the digit off. R3 could be flaky on your board.
Quoted from Quench:You *need* to install a freeplay ROM
Agreed. The knock should mean you've accomplished something (or matched). Looks like you're running original PROMS there though, so it will take two programmed 2732s and some re-jumpering of the MPU.
Quoted from vec-tor:EM cabinet.
Okay, I see it now! The bolt holes for the bottom relay board. Missed that.
Quoted from JethroP:Picked up a $6 million man. The sound is just a monotonous tone for each target/switch hit. I have replaced all the caps on the sound board and reflowed the header pins. Also tried all the combinations of S8 and S32 on the MPU, no change. Any ideas on how to get the board to produce the other sounds?
[quoted image]
I've seen this symptom on several of those boards when U3 (the PROM) is bad.
Quoted from Inkochnito:This will also happen when resistor R2 (25 ohm) on the rectifier board breaks or gets loose.
That will surge the 6.5VDC and burnout all the switched illumination bulbs.
I've seen it happen twice already.
The general illumination will keep on working just fine, because it is a seperate circuit.
Yeah figures. The one time you want those crappy corroded Bally light sockets to not make a good connection, they do.
Quoted from Quench:The wiring to the knocker isn't factory. You can see someone's run cables for it. Am guessing the head is from a Playboy (which has that sound board) because of the white paint.
Yeah didn't notice about the knocker. Couldn't the head also be 6M$M, Voltan(!), Kiss, Harlem or Dolly?
I tried to match the text on the adjustment cards stapled in the backbox with pics from ipdb. It does look like the Eight Ball cards but I'm not sure.
Quoted from JethroP:U3 is soldered to the board. Is there any way to check this?
With a logic probe and schematic you can check that the PROM's data pins are correct for different values at the address pins. Playing sounds should make the data pin values change. The address table for the PROM is available. The PROM itself is no longer available but an adapter and EPROM equivalent are available.
Quoted from Nokoro:Thanks, all, for the comments. I'll remove the battery. I guess I'll hang on to the MPU in case I ever need one or am feeling brave enough to try repairing it.
If nothing else, remove and save all the socketed chips. They are getting harder to find.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Modern day incandescent bulbs suck these days. The quality is awful.
Don't even bother using new incandescent bulbs in pop bumpers of any game newer than an EM. Vibration will knock them out right away.
Before I put up a classified ad, does anyone have the backglass lock bar from an AS-2518 Bally from about 1977 to 1984? I am happy to buy it. I got a Bally Mystic and the lockbar and lock are missing. I can scrounge a lock but if you have it too that would be good.
Quoted from Joydivision:Rarely come up for sale in the used market.
Marco do have them.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3868
Expensive but wow, thank you!
Quoted from pinster68:I was given an Eight Ball a few days ago. Owner just wanted it out of his house. A few minor repairs, new rubbers and bulbs, and it’s up and running. What really surprised me was the full edge-to-edge playfield mylar - even the shooter lane. Zero exposed surface. Playfield is mint. Backglass is near mint, and other than the credit doorbell mounted on the front the cabinet is a solid 8.
As it turns out this is the first pinball machine I ever played … neighbor had one back in the late 70’s.
Someone came up with a whole new ruleset with a plug in arduino mod, so I have that on order.
Another Paul Faris work of art in my collection.
[quoted image]
Nice game! I'm at the post office right now shipping your new Arduino adapter.
Quoted from pinster68:Awesome! Amazing work you’ve done. Really looking forward to it. Incidentally, Any others in the works?
Added yesterday: EDIT: received and installed the arduino. Easy install, works flawless, and your programming on this is very impressive. Can't wait to try the others.
Thank you, but I didn't write the software. There are several people developing new titles for Dick Hamill's open source Bally/Stern Operating System (BSOS). RoyGBev sells PCB kits to build the arduino adapter, and ready-to-play assembled kits. We assemble, program, and test the kits before shipping.
I used to develop software in assembly and C++, and if I ever get a spare minute I'll work on a new title.
Here's a video of Eight Ball Plus, narrated by the developer:
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider roygbev.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club?tu=roygbev and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Little Rock, AR
Toronto, ON