Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
BMX
Bally, 1982
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ralph67.
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Quoted from moparracer35:I have a 1978 bally playboy machine someone gave me and everything works fine except one thing. It will load the ball initially but it wont reload. When a self test is run all the solenoids work great. Ground driver 4 and it reloads.Would this be a bad driver board or MPU?
Thanks
Strikes and Spares . Note date code 7826 on battery . 26th week 1978 never replaced
I can repair these MPU's But!
The battery damage has laid waste to the lower components.
This one looks like it will be a pita.
Opinions? any secrets or hints when fixing the corrosion damage ?
Quoted from Bohdi:No, no diode installed. And it is the only controlled lamp not working. Guess I need to install I diode or get a lamp socket with one installed. What about the ground near the speaker?
Looks like the wire Yellow/ green has come off the solder tab? , Could even be a bad solder joint on the common wire ,right next to the bulb holder mounting screw( Check that using a screwdriver shorting the solder blob to the Common)
It that fails
Trace that wire colour to the lamp board connector , gently pull on the wire right at where it goes into the connector , if it lights up , the connector could need re soldering , or replacing .or even a new crimp on that wire.
If no luck trying all that ,
the Transistor or SCR that drives the lamp must be blown.
Speaker , yes mount the earth strap under one of the speaker screws.
Good luck
Quoted from Bohdi:The wire is currently not soldered on. I desoldered it and tried a different socket. Is a diode needed? Where the socket mounts to the PF, it is soldered to the common wire.
Oh got you now about the loose wire , And if your sure the common has a good connection.
try looking at the connector pins on lamp board for cracks. If connectors are good , it must 95% sure it would be the SCR or transistor for that lamp
Diodes , The other sockets dont look like they have any on them , So the new socket won't need one either .
By the way what game is this EBD?
Quoted from Bohdi:I'll double check the common connection. Redid it at least twice to make sure already, but maybe i'll redo it again. And yes, it's a EBD
That common should be okay , if you have re done it ,
What lamp is not working?? , I have the manual here and can work out which transistor it is for you
Probably one of the smaller 5060's on the Lamp board, but this game also uses a 2nd aux lamp board to, but all those on the aux are of the bigger MCR-1060 type.
So if you can tell us which lamp it is exactly, ie 10 Target, "d" , 7 Rack etc...???
Quoted from Bohdi:It's the "10" insert lamp for the drops. Next to the 1-7
The '10' insert lamp , driven by Q26. which is a 2N5060.
Manual list that lamp as the '10 Target' and colours yellow/green so it must be the right one .
The connector pin is J1 pin 7 on the main Lamp board
good luck mate ...
Quoted from kursiv:Quick question. Which game was the first with computer controlled drop targets?
Stern/LAI 1979 Cosmic Princess has them. But only released in Australia and NZ. (336 made) .
Has 5 targets . 2 come up , hit them both 2x bonus,
then 3 come up , hit them all 3x bonus , then 4 , then all five come up , knock them all down for 5x bonus .
Really cool feature.
This game also had a photo unit on top , If you beat the high score , it took your photo and you got the instant photo.
But i have never seen one of these photo units ever .
image-1 (resized).jpg
This is how it looks at the start of a game , excuse the old bumper caps , they were replaced
CP SN unknown as yet P6100008 (2) (resized).JPG
PA130045 (resized).JPG
Quoted from mark532011:According to the schematic ( http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1125/Bally_1979_Harlem_Globetrotters_On_Tour_Manual.pdf ) page 29, resistors 7,9,11 are all 100k but it doesn't say the wattage... are these 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, etc.? How would I find this out
Use 100k 1/2Watt , Mount a few mm's above to board for better cooling . Do all the resistors R1,R3,R5,R7 R9 and R11 .
also 99% of these displays the connector pins are cracked , so use a desoldering tool . remove old solder and then resolder these, or install new connectors ,
these pads tend to lift if too much heat is used, so after you have soldered them all again , check the connections with a meter for continuity
Quoted from jsa:Hey folks. I've got a weird one for you on my Future Spa. Honestly I don't know if this is normal. The whole game works, all systems check out.
I've got a situation where certain control/insert lamps, with incandescents OR a properly installed Alltek board with LEDs, will flicker when on.
I'd say it was design intention, but for example, in the words FUTURE SPA on the main lower playfield, F flickers, UTU stays solid, and RE SPA, 18k and SPECIAL flicker, 36k stays solid. Why would they be different?
I've checked voltages on the common wire, it's all consistent. Again, this happens with incandescents as well.
I've swapped the lamp board, the MPU board, or both, and get the same result. This is true in attract mode or lamp test.
Here's some more information on some of the lamps involved from the schematics, it's not a complete list but we looked for commonalities:
J1:18, SCR Q14,R14
J1:19, SCR Q12, R12
J1, SCR Q29, R29
J1:9, SCR Q27, R27
J3:26, SCR Q36, R36
J3:25, SCR Q38, R38
J3, SCR Q57, R57
J3:12, SCR Q50, R50
The only thing we found is that they come off address 0 or 1 on the IC chips.
I shot a high-speed video that shows you in slow motion the flickering for some lamps here. Remember, this happens with incandescents or LEDs with resistors:Anyone have any thoughts on where to chase this ghost, or am I just oversensitive to something that is part of the game?
What are they doing when you go into lamp test ? They should all pulse at the same rate ,
Id look at a short on the lamp sockets or between lamp and switch lines,
I have seen something similar on a Xenon, weird pulsing on some lamps in the head box , Turned out that was solder bridges on the lamp board connectors , But seeing you have tried a new Lamp board , that's out of the question .
Quoted from FatPanda:but it's centered on the SCR
Not my board but this is what they look like.
The Notched side is the front , on the old style SCR's ( With part no's printed on it) , the other side is then the back, which is the metal side
Make sure you solder both sides of the boards
those tracks look lifted , less heat , clean the solder tip often even if you think it doesn't need it , always add a little fresh solder , this will make the old grey solder flow , A few pics of one I just repaired , not the neatest , but you can see I solder both sides
good luck
Quoted from Ralph67:Make sure you solder both sides of the boards
those tracks look lifted , less heat , clean the solder tip often even if you think it doesn't need it , always add a little fresh solder , this will make the old grey solder flow ,
good luck
A few pics of one I have been working on , not my neatest work , but you get the idea[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from vec-tor:I would test the bridge.
You probably have a bad bridge.
I would also check the power resistor.
R2 should read 25ohms, give or take 10%
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Queen Creek, AZ
Toronto, ON