Finally able to join this club with a HG.

Got a CPR PF on the way and am about to order plastics, spinner decals, and a whole hell of a lot more!

Also, if I want to use LEDs for the PF inserts to minimize the strain on a 43 year old wiring harness, do you have to use "no ghostings" LEDs? I put traditional single frosted LED bulbs, and due to the relaatively low current draw, the LEDs stay on, even when they are not supposed to.

Thoughts? I'm new to these older games, so please, be gentle as I learn : ).

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Beautiful. Thank you, both! Got a board on the way. With the CPR PF, plastics, spinner decals, and other assorted goodies on the way, this will be a good project!

Ok, scratching my head here on my HG.

Purchased a brand new aftermarket Weebly lamp driver board so I can convert incads to LEDs and lighten the load on a 43 year old wiring harness.

Systematically unplugged connectors, brought original lamp board out. Plugged new Weebly board in. Turned game on, left game in attract mode and heard a new "oscillating hum" coming from the head somewhere. After about 30 seconds, smelled that terrible plastic burning aroma, and saw Q57 visibly smoking. All of this occurred in attract mode.

Turned game off right away. Checked all connectors on the board and the MPU (some of the MPU connectors will inadvertently pulled off while installing the Weebly board). Checked everything I could see. Kept my finger on Q57 and booted the game. Q57 got hot quick, so tured game off.

Baffled, I swapped boards back out with the original 43 year old Bally lamp board. Fired game up with finger on Q57. Zero problems. Q57 is room temperature in attract mode.

What gives? Did I get a DOA board?

It is for Harlem Globetrotters.

All good questions. Unfortunately, I am headed to bed for a 2 week assignment out in Oklahoma. Getting on a 0900 flight tomorrow morning, so it'll be until 20 June before I get back to verify.

I'll need to look at the manual/wiring schematics and determine what lamp(s) Q57 is responsible for. As far as testing for a short at the lamp socket, given that the lamp sockets use a single wire, how exactly what I test for a short? Not trying to be obtuse; I genuinely do not know the proper procedure to test for a short with a lamp socket that uses a single wire for power. Would I set my DMM to continuity check, put one lead on the wire and the other on the end of the bulb socket?

YEP! And that socket is beat all to smithereens. You can install a bulb, but the base is NOT stationary...you can take your fingers and rotate it, twist it, turn it - vs the socket being solid as a rock. I wondered why no matter how many different bulbs I put in the socket the light wasn't turning on...

I absolutely believe you. Unfortunately, I am out of town until 20 June, so I can't do a quick visual confirmation. I saw the colored wire on the lug, but I didn't see the braided wire. Is it similar to how DE games wire up their GI lighting? Either way, I am sure it is something I completely overlooked as the AS-2518 games are brand new territory for me and I may not know what to look for yet : ).

Where do I get a new replacement transistor for Q57 (for a Weebly board)? Barak mentioned "C106" but I don't know exactly how to look that up. Is that the same as MCR106-6 over at GPE?

I know we talked this over in PMs - asking here in case others have questions but don't want to ask or for posterity's sake down the road.

I am currently on assignment at Tinker AFB, so I cannot quickly reference my new Weebly lamp matrix board until I return 20 June. That being said, simply snip the legs off the CR106 Thyristor, and then install a version that uses the holes in the PCB. Am I tracking correctly?

Referencing the datasheet you provided, does pin 1 of TO-126 go in the top hole of the Weebly lamp matrix board for Q57 (in my particular case)? Is the the correct orientation for installation?

Does anyone know the correct part for the backbox lock? I got the correct coin door lock, but I have a drilled out backbox lock on Harlem Globetrotters, and I do not know which lock to get.

Figured I'd ask here.

Thank you. What document did that come from so I can get one and reduce silly questions?

All right - did some searching for the stationary targets on Harlem. It is the (5) red stationary targets to the far left of the playfield. Part #: ase-2911-31, #17 in the referenced photo below:

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I noticed that #18 looks very similar to what I am looking for; however, it has a different part #.

Again, I am still on temporary assignment in Oklahoma, so I cannot lift my PF and look until I get home - hence, all my questions this last week or two. Is there a cross-referenced part for ASE-2911-31? If it involves soldering or adding components like a diode or something to an stand-up target, no problem, very handy with that kind of work.

Thanks!

Whoops. Just saw the difference - front vs back mounted. Thanks for pointing that out!

Work continues on Harlem Globetrotters. Got a fair number of the playfield lights working, installed the new backbox lock, and got all new trim for the backglass installed!

Noted my top left flipper stopped working and saw this thick yellow wire hanging loosely. I am sure this is the cause of the top left flipper not responding; however, I am hesitant to take a guess on which coil lug it is normally installed on. I highlighted the wire with a red rectangle to help make it more identifiable:

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I checked the wiring schematics in the HG manual, but I didn't see anything in the manual that would help me deduce where this wire is supposed to go.

Anybody willing to look under their HG PF and take a quick look for me? Or if someone knows where this wire should be re-soldered to, I'd be very appreciative!

I appreciate your help. I was tired and totally didn't realize I put "yellow" - you're right - definitely a brown wire.

There are two lugs with diodes (picture provided below). Does it go to the middle lug (in red) or the bottom lug (in blue)?

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I goofed in my original description: it is a brown wire, which is a constant 43V. All non-flipper solenoids work.

Currently awaiting feedback to my question in my previous post as there are two diodes on the flipper coil, and I do not know which lug to re-solder the loose wire to (lug in red box or lug in blue box).

Definitely don't want to flip a coin and get this wrong...!

I love this topic. So many helpful people here. I'm donating and making my Pinside heart red again just for this topic alone.

Thank you for being so patient with me. I feel like when I got my Johnny Mnemonic in 2012 all over again. I'm going to have lots more questions in the future...I promise I'm trying with the game-specific manual and parts manual!

All right, got the upper left flipper flipping again - thanks guys!

Now, back to the very original problem with this game, the 4k bonus light not firing up.

For those who remember, I installed a Weebly board, and unbeknowest to me, I had a short in the game, which burnt up Q57, a CR106 thyristor. I suspect the short was the 4k bulb socket, as it was all sorts of thrashed. I replaced the light socket for the 4k bonus light, and then began to work on the Weebly board.

I clipped the cathode and gate legs like barakandl instructed. Unfortunately, the thyristor had been so burnt to a crisp when I did this, the old thyristor came right off the board. I'm betting that with the surface mounted metal tab side now gone, the thyristor I installed now the is contending with an "open" circuit for the anode leg. Pictures attached:

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Any ideas what I should do now? Better to send the board back and let BarakandI fix it right, or should I try some DIY stuff first?

N/M! Ran a jumper wire from the anode leg to pin #1 and it works perfectly. That's that : )

Quick update for everyone on HG: the game had multiple bad sockets leading to at least replacement of 2 thyistors. I installed new thyristors on the Weebly board, and the game finally has all lights functional!!! For the previously documented thyristor repair, I ran an 18 gauge wire on the back of the PCB from the anode leg to pin #1 of the J3 connector.

Wanted to make sure this is known: these repairs had zero to do with introducing the Weebly board to the game. Pre-existing shorts caused all this trouble. @barakandi makes fantastic products!!