Mantis offers it for sale. I think it’s the same size.

https://mantispinball.com/product/bally-playfield-hangers-older-bally/

Ah, my bad. Good luck finding what you need!

Look at you! Fixing games like it’s your job.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

Head = 10 1/8” from front to back at the top

Front to back on bottom = 9”

Front trim to rear edge side panel (stencil area) = 6.75”

Height = 27 5/8”

Width = 30 1/4”

Hey, any idea where I can purchase the shielded ground braid?

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I thought about using heat shrink, but I was trying to keep the factory look. I’m having a hard time finding shielded ground braid anywhere, so I’ll probably just have to make some.

Thanks for the links!

Some of the existing wires are stripped, and some are just gross. I was just going to replace it if it was cheap or easy.

I just purchased some shielded ground braid from Third Coast. Not quite factory, but does the trick.

Is there a way to connect an external powered subwoofer? I have a Pinball Pro cabinet sub using the NB2 board on Medusa and Fathom running custom tunes. The cabinet sub is much better than stock, but I wouldn't mind the added umpf of an external sub.

I tried connecting the external sub to the internal sub with wire and alligator clips, and that didn't work. Is there a more elegant solution?

I tried to connect an external sub with alligator clips, epic fail. I did purchase a Pinball Pro cabinet sub and it’s been great. I have the NB2 board, so I needed a decent speaker to work with the custom music.

https://pinballpro.net/shop/early-bally-williams-games-subwoofer/

No need for non-ghosting LEDs, but you’ll need this Alltek board. I just bought one today for a Centaur I recently picked up. This will eliminate your issue.

https://allteksystems.com/collections/pinball-replacement-board-products/products/ultimate-led-lamp-driver-board

I have a thread for the two playfield swaps I did (Medusa and Fathom), and there are plenty of other threads to help you out. Good luck!

Yeah, good call. There are some cheaper options as well on pinballlife. Whatever you use, you’ll need a new board or some type of board adapter.

Issue: Medusa is blowing the 20 amp fuse on the power module

The 20 amp handles controlled inserts, so the likely source is a short somewhere. However, after some troubleshooting, I have it narrowed down to the coin door. This is where it gets weird.

If I close the coin door all the way, the fuse pops. If I only close it half way, the game runs flawlessly. So, the likely culprit is in/around the coin door.

But for the life of me, I can’t find the location of the short. Even disconnecting the plug at the coin door (no coin lights, tilt, game start) results in the same thing. Yes, I have lighted flipper buttons, but disconnecting those results in the same thing.

Here’s some pictures. I did a playfield swap and restored the cabinet. New everything, so I’m hoping someone may have an idea of what I missed. All the grounding cables were replaced because the old ones were rusted through.

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9D7426F9-1A29-42E9-A7AA-EA365E0FE500 (resized).jpeg

A6E080E8-052B-4F62-B750-93D864CDC505 (resized).jpeg

D6719B28-2288-4C9D-A80B-ABDB3E1E295B (resized).jpeg

F28728AA-989A-4AF5-8F9F-551BD54E6C0D (resized).jpeg

Yes, I’ve lifted the playfield. Same thing. As I said, I agree that something is touching something, which is why I’m pulling my hair out. I just can’t find it.

If there’s another plausible reason, I can dig into that. If not, then I’ll keep poking around.

Culprit? I failed to put foam behind the hangers. If there was any contact, would that cause a short?
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View from up top:
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Edit: I added foam behind the hangers. Checked the coin bulbs. Same thing.

It’s definitely not the GI. When the 20 amp blows on F1, the inserts go dark. GI remains on.

I’ll take a look at the coin chute wires, thanks. Even with the plug disconnected, though, the 20 amp blows when the door is closed. I’m convinced it’s a controlled lamp grounding on *something*. When the fuse pops, there’s a light electrical smell. It’s just weird that this happens in that 1/4” space of closing the coin door.

I’ll definitely try it (I’ll try anything at this point). But because the playfield blocks the view, and the coin door is closed, I may have a hard time seeing the spark. I’ve even sniffed each connection (no pictures of that, fortunately).

Now that I think about it, I could set my phone inside the game to record what’s going on. Great idea!

The fuse doesn’t pop with the playfield up. The fuse pops with the playfield down and the coin door closed all the way.

Found it! I set the phone inside the coin box, the fuse blew right away. I watched the video, and sure enough, a tiny spot of smoke.

The coin door was grounding against the controlled lamp wire.

Thanks all!

image (resized).jpg

Ha, thanks. Here’s the video if you’re curious. Look for the smoke toward the bottom right.

No idea. There were four frayed wires right against the coin chute. I relocated the guide about an inch back and wrapped the bad wires. I guess crazy stuff like that happens with any cabinet swap.

Edit: Now that I think about it, the coin chute part against the wires is semi-sharp, almost a hook. It’s possible that months of lifting the playfield to work on stuff frayed the wires over time like a pendulum. That’s why the issue was intermittent.