(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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#1901 3 years ago

Hey guys, hoping this is the right place to start! Bought my second Solid State and while it's a bit dirty I'm excited to get it set up right and cleaned.

A couple of questions if that's cool though and I realise that I'm jumping all over the place but my first SS has literally never needed any sort of playing around with. Works great! My Harlem does need some sort of minor adjustments along the way it seems.

Hopefully asking questions in order of the photos:

- my backglass seems to have these circles in the image. The backside is perfect! No bubbling or anything. Is this right? From the front it looks like it's lifting but I can promise it is not

- displays. That says Stern board....any issues with this? The second photo is of a nipple on the back of one. Is this broken? My displays are a little stuffed and wondering if fixable or just upgrade to LED

- can anyone confirm that the mechanism that opens the gate for "ball save" is correct? Not quite working properly.

- drop targets don't fully drop. Is it just a matter of getting new springs for these? To create better tension on the targets to make them drop "snappier". Any tips on how to get the best out of these.

- the last one is...well i don't know what the hell it is!! lol. This is located up near the right flipper. Whats going on with it? What is it? A tilt mech of sorts?? Why is the diode wrapped around the wire like that......lol

If you have read all this, thank you thank you thank you.

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#1928 3 years ago

Been cleaning my Harlem. Got the drop targets redone after removing a lot of grease.

Next was the ball gate mech.

I have cleaned and put it back together but it sounds like the coil is activating and keeping the gate closed. It made a loud buzzing sound before I turned it off for fear of burning out the coil...but can anyone shed some light.

I've triple checked how I put it back together and it looks right?!? Photo's attached.

EDIT: gate is shown in the open position. Have I just attached/positioned the pole incorrectly?
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#1931 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I would loosen the set screws, then...
1) Push gate relay closed and tighten one set of screws very lightly.
---- ( top gate wire form should be in closed position ).
---- ( gate should not have any stress pushed against it )
2) Test movement of gate.
3) If O.K., tighten both set screws, till gate is set and moves freely.

OK, excuse my ignorance as I'm new to SS tinkering....gate relay is the larger metal arm do I presume? And the screws you are referring to is the small allan screws that tighten the actual gate yeah?

#1932 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

This particular coil is designed to be energized for a long time without damage. The noise you are hearing is because the moving mechanism isn't quite at the end of its stroke....so it's sort of vibrating. Adjust the gate to hit its stop when the moving coil armature plate is against the coil iron core.

So that's basically just a matter of doing what was mentioned above. ring the gate back to closed position and tighten allan screws. Problem fixed?

#1933 3 years ago

Ok. Gate still needs tweaking but thanks guys. It was originally in the wrong position so adjusting as per your recommendations has fixed.

Wondering if there is a parts list for these games? In the photo you can see that the first drop target is missing the opposite metal guide?!? to keep the target from actually falling out.

Is this available?

I actually need some posts as well for the topside and want to ensure the right size is bought.

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#1949 3 years ago

Can anyone help with the product number of those posts please. I am missing 4 of them.

Do they just screw into the playfield?

harlem (resized).jpgharlem (resized).jpg
#1951 3 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Check this page.
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=%20mini%20post
I believe most of those are the machine threads, but may be a couple wood screw type. Look under your PF and if the hole goes all the way through, you need this one and a nut:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base-15430.html

All threaded bases! Thank you!

#1954 3 years ago

Great idea guys thanks. Some of them do get a hammering and look like the wood around it has splinted ever so slightly.

Will add a washer for sure!

1 month later
#2121 3 years ago

Just further to my previous post re the photo below. My Marco order came (I'm in Australia so had to combine shipping with others and send to a PO Box within US to send to me....anyway..) and I got the 10/32 posts as recommended.

They are one hell of a tight fit?!?!

Did I order wrong and should have gone 8/32? The original nuts underneath don't screw into new the 10/32 I ordered?

Or....do i just maybe open the hole slightly and screw through the existing holes? Wondering if the wood has shrunk slightly making the current holes that little bit tighter than normal and just drilling slightly to open is the way to go.

The other issue is the the 10/32 posts have the little "washer" at the base of them, making them match my originals. I can't find any 8/32 with this same look.

posts (resized).jpgposts (resized).jpg
#2125 3 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Stick with the 10/32's, they'll take a beating better than the 8/32's. You need to drill out the holes a little bit for 10/32 and you should be able to buy the correct size nuts locally. Don't forget to put a washer between the playfield and post so the force of the ball hitting it is spread out over a larger area.

Thanks mate!

This group is really quite good!! I've posted in other clubs about questions or help and you get no answers at all....you guys rock!!

#2127 3 years ago

dothedoo to drill out the holes a little more...go from underneath up as opposed from topside down?

1 week later
#2135 3 years ago

Back to some trouble shooting!!! Why can't these things ever just go back the way they were before you did something simple like a flipper rebuild!!

As above, on my Harlem, the 2 left flippers no longer work? Right does. Just did a flipper rebuild, nothing major?

Checked fuse underneath, tested fine. Checked the coils, 43v on all...so good there.

Remind me how I make the coils fire when grounding? Which lug do I touch to see if they fire?

Or is it something else I need to look at as well.

Thanks guys.

Note: also lost all my insert lights...only mentioning in case it is related?!?

#2137 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Could it be a simple case of the EOS switch not closing tightly enough?

Looks to be making good contact but will triple check again.

Went into test and all coils fired except the mentioned flippers!

#2139 3 years ago

Connectors look ok. Gave them a clean and reseated.

Flippers still not working

Is there much info in Pinwiki on this? I couldn't find really all that much when it came to trouble shooting?!? Guess that's why I'm just asking in here.

2 weeks later
#2199 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Which game is it for?
And which bridge on the rectifier board are you replacing?
There were two different rectifier boards used in classic Bally and they had different bridge rectifiers.

lol...it's never easy is it! Haha, sorry. Bally Harlem. Looking to maybe replace all 3.

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Give us some background - is one of them faulty, and which one?
If they're not faulty, I would not replace them.
The originals are 10 amp bridge rectifiers. They're long obsolete. The ones Marco is selling model KBPC802 are 8 amps, not 10 amps.
Physical size wise, these are all drop in replacements but are only 8 amps max (highest you can get in this physical size)
https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/bridge-rectifiers/?applied-dimensions=4294809338,4294565700,4294876504,4294874820,4294876509,4294874899,4294874849
If the BR1 feature lamp bridge has blown, replace it with one of the originals from BR2 or BR3 and install an 8 amp at BR2 or BR3. You really want a 10 amp bridge at BR1 because of the high current draw.
Screw the rectifier board with bridges in place first, then solder them so there's no stress on the joints.
Alternatively some people solder the big 35 amp bridges on the top side of the board, but you must make sure to effectively thermally cool it with a decent heatsink because it will get HOT.

Thank you, nice response.

I have actually tested all 3 bridges and they give a reading of around .498 on both positive and negative side so based on your advise above, I think I'll leave them in place.

The board itself is pretty messy and has swelling so I'm thinking of taking it to someone to clean up. Get it re-pinned and fixed. Photo attached for feedback.

I will take a screen shot of your advise to show as it sounds like if they don't need to be replaced.....don't!

Also, can I just presume that after all this digging, that having a couple burnt connectors is really the real problem here as to why I have lost lights?!? Sorry for fuzzy photos, but you get the idea.

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#2204 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, the burnt connectors are potentially your problem. But it's easy enough to confirm if you have voltage at the rectifier board and no voltage at the playfield/backbox.
BTW, it looks like someone has hooked up an external bridge on BR3 (for the solenoids) so I presume that bridge is faulty. Replace it with any of the 8 amp bridges linked in my previous post.
Also, to properly test BR1 and BR3 you should temporarily unsolder one leg of resistor R2 and R1 respectively - they are across the bridges and will tamper with the readings.

I actually tested the external one and readings were within range!

I've seen machines with all 3 bridge rectifiers external like this before. Most screwed into the side of the headbox just above the board. Is this not standard?

3 months later
#2300 3 years ago

Looking for help on getting my displays working for my Harlem.

They are all over the shop. I'll try to explain this as best I can.

Player one is scrambled. Scrolls through the numbers but can repeat itself. 0 - 3 - 4 - 7 - 6 - 8 - 9 - 0 - 1

Player 2 is fine, Player 3 also (excluding one number but I'll look at that later i guess)

Player 4 no works.

Credit and match display much like Player 1 display....all over the shop.

I swapped Player 2 with 1 and 4 to see what would happen and nothing changed. I can only presume Player 1 and maybe even 4 have wiring issues?

I watched a video that said to test TP2 and TP4 on the solenoid board and voltages came up good. TP2 was 171v and TP4 230-240v (remembering I'm in Australia)

What's my next steps here please?

#2303 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Is this the sequence shown in display test mode?
What's the very first number you see when you start display test mode?

yes...this is the exact sequence.

#2304 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Check all your connections / plugs.
Reflow solder on your headers.
Try again.

I can't do this myself unfortunately. might post some pics to show the displays, see if you think it needs work.

#2306 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

So are you saying in display test mode, the intended numbers on the left are producing the numbers on the right?
000000 --> 000000
111111 --> 333333
222222 --> 444444
333333 --> 777777
444444 --> 666666
555555 --> 888888
666666 --> 999999
777777 --> 000000
888888 --> 111111
999999 --> ?
If not, please be very specific so we can try to determine the logic of what's going wrong.

Correct.

#2309 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you post a video showing all five displays in display test mode going through the full number sequence a few times.

At the moment I only have this video. If you want longer I’ll have to do this tomorrow as I’m at home today and the pin is at work.

#2311 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

That video much better illustrates the issue.
There are 4 signal wires from the MPU board that tells the displays what number to show. These four signals form a BCD (Binary Coded Decimal) number.
It looks like you have an open circuit on one of those signals to Player 1 and the Credit/Match/Ball in Play displays.
Specifically speaking the BCD data 1 signal.
It's likely you have fractured/cracked solder joints on the display pin header. If you post clear pictures of the display pin header soldering it should be obvious if they're cracked
Secondly check and re-crimp (if found to be bad), the crimp terminal at pin 18 on both of those displays which is the BCD data 1 signal. That crimp is a Blue-White wire.

Thank you for the detailed reply mate, very much appreciated the replies.

I'll look tomorrow when at work and reply with photos or other questions.

#2312 3 years ago

Quench so far so good!! Nice work mate. Pushed back in pin 18 on both score 1 and credit and got both back working/scrolling as they should!! Photo shows how little they were out.

So happy this was an easy fix!! Legend!! Thank you!

Photos of the underneath of these displays for you, not sure if needed now they work well. I still have a digit out on the credit display? So if you have any idea on that!

And obviously score 4 still not working.

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#2314 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It looks like someone has already resoldered those pin headers in the past.

They look ok to you though? Don't need to resolder at all?

#2315 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Firstly if you move that display to another position does it work?

If not, missing digits is most commonly caused by resistor burnout on the display board. The displays have a 100k ohm resistor for each digit. These are at R1, R3, R5, R7, R9 and R11.
If you have a multi-meter, set it to resistance mode. If your meter isn't auto-ranging set it to the 200k ohms resistance range.
With the display on the bench (out of the machine) put a meter lead on leg of those resistor - they should all measure in the 100k ohms range. Resistor R3 is specifically for the 10's digit.

So changed around the displays and the fault followed the display.

Readings as follows:

R1 - 77.5
R3 - Started at 12, was creeping up to 22 when I got bored (guessing this needs replacing?)
R5 - 88.6
R7 - 83.5
R9 - 133.5
R11 - 102.8

3 weeks later
#2333 3 years ago

How do you reset the high scores please guys? I have a HGT set at like 945000. I'd like to reset to have mine there.

Thought I saw it in the manual but can't seem to find it second time around

#2335 3 years ago

Still having slight issues with my double flipper. The top one needs a good push to active it! So with a quick flip, it doesn't flip.

I've attached photos of the flipper eos's as well as the spacing for the flipper button on the cabinet.

Should I just replace? Or is my spacing wrong? Or is there something else.

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#2338 3 years ago

Thanks hisokajp

I did a full flipper rebuild but because my soldering skills are so so I didn't replace the switches! So I'll do that, thanks guys!

#2339 3 years ago

Replaced the switches on both right and upper left! Works perfectly now!! Thank you! Next time I do a flipper rebuild on an old girl like this, think I'll do the switches as mandatory next time!!

1 week later
#2347 3 years ago

Now that Marco's has finally dropped the price of shipping I'm stocking up on some much needed parts.

Can anyone confirm this is the right switch for my Harlem flipper please: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A365-00046-0000

Thanks again guys.

1 week later
#2394 3 years ago

Mine look to soldered to a clip which is earthed.

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#2396 3 years ago

My above post is from my Harlem.

#2400 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Toasted coils on a “project” Harlem GT probably related to the lack of ground in above post 2392.
Both upper saucer kickouts, one jet bumper, one slingshot and the knocker.
The plungers are all frozen solid!
[quoted image]

YUK

1 year later
#3176 1 year ago

Hey guys, quick question I'm hoping to get answered.

The fuse in between the flippers. Am I reading it right saying its a 1A Slow Blow fuse. Need to replace and think there was fast blow previously?!?

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