(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,868 posts
  • 368 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by tatman9999
  • Topic is favorited by 287 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_1013 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1804 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1847 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1849 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1856 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2083 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2088 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2092 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2091 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2093 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2095 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_2852 (resized).JPG
IMG_2571 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2849 (resized).JPG
pasted_image (resized).png

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jakers.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1040 5 years ago

I joined the club last weekend with my first Bally, Harlem Globetrotters. I'm loving the game so far. There are a couple issues I need to diagnose and could use some help going in the right direction.

1st, display problems. The player one and credit/ball display work fine but the other 3 displays all have a different problem. P2 is missing a digit and sometimes shows just a dash where a digit should be. P3 is sometimes missing the bottom segment of every digit. P4 shows all segments, all the time but can't seem to show anything when testing numbers 2-7. Check the picture mashup I created to see what they look like when in test mode. Are all these displays interchangeable so I could swap them around to see if the problems move with the displays?

2nd problem. I randomly ran across this while I had the glass off and was wiping down the play field. If I touch any of the spinners while touching the side rails, the game credits up. It doesn't affect gameplay but it really took me by surprise when it happened.

Jake

HG2 (resized).jpgHG2 (resized).jpg
#1055 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

jakers when dealing with displays reflow first, then do connectors (displays and MPU then if you still have missing segments or other issues do your resistors / transistors. The wiggle test can sometimes be telling, as well as swapping display positions ...and seeing if the problem follows.

Thanks Chalkey I've reflowed the connector pins which didn't fix anything. I've swapped all the displays and the problems do follow with the displays so I'm sure my MPU is working correctly. I've ordered parts based on the pinwiki guide for fixing displays. Now while I wait for those parts, it's time to figure out my phantom pop bumper firing. If I activate the left or right pop bumper, the center fires as well. The center pop bumper works correctly when I activate it.

Did I mention this is my first Bally? FUN TIMES!

#1057 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Awesome, sounds like you've got the knack. If your pop bumper switches aren't super close (pop bumper causing enough shock to activate the other switches) I'd think it'd be a diode issue.
Harlem is awesome. Took me a long time to exorcise the demons from mine. Good luck!

I can pound on the play field all day long without the pops firing. When I trigger the left and right by hand, the center fires as well. I'm going to separate the J2 wires like others have had success with and see if that helps. I checked the pop diodes and they seem to be all connected correctly.

IMG_5999 (resized).jpgIMG_5999 (resized).jpgIMG_6001 (resized).jpgIMG_6001 (resized).jpgIMG_6002 (resized).jpgIMG_6002 (resized).jpg
1 year later
#2032 3 years ago

I just got a Future Spa and while going though it I've found that the only problem it has is the "P" light (directly under the center target) will not operate. I know the bulb is good and so is the wiring. I've looked in the manual and my first guess would be to replace Q29 on the light board. Does anyone know what part number this would be and is this a step in the right direction to get the light working? My first thought is "2N5064 SCR". Thoughts?

Thanks

Screen Shot 2020-05-08 at 11.22.01 AM.pngScreen Shot 2020-05-08 at 11.22.01 AM.png
#2037 3 years ago

Thanks, guys! I found them on PinballLife and placed an order. Fingers crossed, I'll have a 100% functional Future Spa soon.

#2074 3 years ago

I found one more issue on Future Spa. I noticed the knocker was not working in test mode. Found the TIP that controls the knocker had a cold solder joint. Reflowed and now the knocker works in test mode. However, when I get a match or a high score the knocker does not fire. Is that a setting that needs to be turned on or something?

#2076 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Check dip switches and adj 16,17,18,19.

According to the manual on ipdb, switch 16 has to do with game rules of the green arrows and 17-19 are all coin price related.

#2084 3 years ago

Still having trouble getting the knocker to fire when high score is met on Future Spa. The knocker works in test mode. I reset the high score to 10,000 for easy testing. I play the game and get a score of over 10,000 but the knocker never fires. I have dipswitch 6 and 7 both ON, dipswitch 21 and 22 both ON. Seems to me like I should get 3 knocker fires for achieving the high score with these dipswitch settings. Any thoughts?

343AE4A8-543C-448F-A988-6B92193C996C.jpeg343AE4A8-543C-448F-A988-6B92193C996C.jpeg
#2086 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Has the game reached maximum credits?
i.e. if you have the maximum credit dip switches #25 and #26 set to 10 credits, and the game already has 10 credits then you can't be rewarded any more.
Otherwise, what are you being rewarded when you get 10,000 points? Extra Ball or nothing?

That makes perfect sense! Thank you for your help! It was set to 10 max credits. I also noticed that someone wired the start button to coin up at the same time. So essentially it was set to free play and was maxed out on credits. I set the max to 40 credits and unhooked the start button from the coin switch. The knocker now fires 3 times for a high score! Thanks to all for the help with this!

One last question (hopefully), are all 5 score displays interchangeable? I have a weak player 4 display and would like to swap it with the credits/ball in play display. They look identical to me but just wanted to make sure before swapping.

2 months later
#2244 3 years ago

I’m having a problem with one of my Bally Future Spa displays. My 10’s digit isn’t working correctly. I’ve swapped the display around and the problem follows with the display. I’ve already put in a new level shifter and digit driver at Q2 and Q8. I’ve also put in a new decoder chip. According to the pinwiki...

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Display.28s.29_flicker

...my next step would be to replace the segment drivers at Q13 through Q19, but as you can see from the pictures some of the segments work randomly when showing different digits.

Has anyone else ran onto this problem? I have enough segment drivers to replace all of them but don’t want to waste my time if anyone knows that won’t help this particular problem.

Thanks.

A32C9371-0A9A-4973-991F-00D60F1C6867 (resized).jpegA32C9371-0A9A-4973-991F-00D60F1C6867 (resized).jpeg583EB1E5-62BF-4FCF-B3F1-1E20034CE0BC (resized).jpeg583EB1E5-62BF-4FCF-B3F1-1E20034CE0BC (resized).jpeg136F9458-E26E-4F6A-9A40-D844DCC0C863 (resized).jpeg136F9458-E26E-4F6A-9A40-D844DCC0C863 (resized).jpeg73DAC343-815C-4FF4-A37D-065FD9962969 (resized).jpeg73DAC343-815C-4FF4-A37D-065FD9962969 (resized).jpegA73634C0-4AC9-4FD7-9BD0-B91C6154130E (resized).jpegA73634C0-4AC9-4FD7-9BD0-B91C6154130E (resized).jpeg9EFCF305-FC07-402C-88DE-210ED659DA1A (resized).jpeg9EFCF305-FC07-402C-88DE-210ED659DA1A (resized).jpegA668BFB6-8226-44C5-8357-D3D249293268 (resized).jpegA668BFB6-8226-44C5-8357-D3D249293268 (resized).jpegFD8F95F8-EA56-4DF5-AADA-43D6000DF0B9 (resized).jpegFD8F95F8-EA56-4DF5-AADA-43D6000DF0B9 (resized).jpegE98AF695-34D9-4F72-9DDE-D0BE7CB2F600 (resized).jpegE98AF695-34D9-4F72-9DDE-D0BE7CB2F600 (resized).jpegF9FD343F-C163-4C98-AA89-4083C932C09E (resized).jpegF9FD343F-C163-4C98-AA89-4083C932C09E (resized).jpeg
#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Units digit is drawing all the juice? Isolate the units digit and see if that fixes the tens digit.

How would I go about isolating that unit digit?

#2251 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

R3 is a 100K resistor in the 10's digit driver circuit. Try replacing that. The 100K resistors (R1,3,5,7,9, and 11) sometimes go bad, turning the digit off. R3 could be flaky on your board.

This was the solve. The display is working great again. Thanks, guys!

9 months later
#2574 2 years ago

I'm in the process of repairing a Bobby Orr Power Play. The game plays but a few coils don't work. The coils that are used on the big save post between the flippers are really burnt and locked up. They've also been disconnected at some point. I assume it kept blowing the fuse so someone just disconnected them. (see burnt coil pic)

I've found a replacement for the large coil, but the smaller coil on that assembly is so burnt I can't see the part number. I have a bunch of spare coils that came out of a RoGo cabinet that I think might work. Can anyone confirm these part numbers from RoGo will work with Bobby Orr?

One of the chime coils is burnt and disconnected as well. Will a chime coil out of a RoGo work with Bobby Orr chimes?

thumbnail_IMG_3889.jpgthumbnail_IMG_3889.jpgthumbnail_IMG_3893.jpgthumbnail_IMG_3893.jpgthumbnail_IMG_3894.jpgthumbnail_IMG_3894.jpg
#2576 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

GA-31-2000, listed in your manual. If you have a 31-2000 from your RoGo you add a diode to it and use it assuming you can move the activation plate over.
Same with the chimes, CN-31-2000, add diode. No diode will blow your (probably already blown) driver transistors.
No manual, download from ipdb.

Ahhh, so the only difference is the diode. Are the diodes part# 1N4004? The game is at a friends house so I don't have access to it at the moment. I'm just trying to get everything I need before going back over there for the repair.

I have the schematics but admittedly am not great at reading them. If the corresponding 3 transistors are blown, would they be Q8 for the Down Post, Q17 for the Up Post and Q6 for the Chime 1000?

Schematic Bobby Orr.pngSchematic Bobby Orr.png
#2578 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, 1n4004. the transistors are as you marked, you can replace them with tip102's. Sometimes the diodes and resistor and predriver array are burnt out as well, the predriver is 3081 (obsolete) so hopefully not that! If you have a spare solenoid driver board that's the easiest way to test.

Unfortunately I don't have a spare driver board. I'll start by replacing the coils and diodes then test. If they still don't work I'll replace the 3 transistors. If that doesn't do the trick then I guess I'll have to track down a used driver board or maybe an Alltek.

Thanks for the help!!

8 months later
#2917 2 years ago

Hoping somebody can point me in the right direction for troubleshooting my Meteor.

Recently, my Meteor constantly resets itself while in attract mode. It has a Rottendog power supply/rectifier board and Rottendog MPU.

#2920 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Start with the rectifier PCB on the transformer board....check all test points and make sure the voltages are in range. If those check points look good, do the same on the Solenoid Driver Board.
Good references here: https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

I’ll be putting together an order and re-pinning all the connections soon.

The rectifier board voltages are a little high compared to what’s printed on the circuit board. As for the solenoid driver board, I took voltage readings from all 7 test points but I’m not sure what voltage they are supposed to be at. Does anyone know what the voltages should be at the test points on the driver board? I couldn’t find that info on pinwiki. Results below. Thanks!

Rectifier board:
TP1- 6.20v
TP2- 227v
TP3- 14.5v
TP4- 6.7vac
TP5- 46v

Solenoid Driver Board:
TP1- 5.25v
TP2- 193v
TP3- 5.23v
TP4- 252v
TP5- 13.95v
TP6- 5.23v
TP7- 5.23v

#2922 2 years ago

Ok, I found what the voltages should be for the test points. Do these voltages seem ok for the game to function correctly?

Rectifier board:
TP1- 6.20v ---------should be 5.4v
TP2- 227v ---------should be 230v
TP3- 14.5v ---------should be 11.9v
TP4- 6.7vac ---------should be 7.3v
TP5- 46v ---------should be 43v

Solenoid Driver Board:
TP1- 5.25v ---------should be 5v
TP2- 193v ---------should be 185v
TP3- 5.23v ---------should be 5v
TP4- 252v ---------should be 230v
TP5- 13.95v ---------should be 11.9v
TP6- 5.23v ---------should be 5v
TP7- 5.23v ---------should be 5v

#2924 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Also (forgive me, this sounds obvious) but also check and make sure each board in the game isn't missing a ground screw and that they're nice and snug. If there's a screw missing or it's loose, I've seen vibrations (from coils firing) shake a PCB to the point where grounding is compromised and they weird crap happens. Like a machine reset.

I owe you a beer, sir. It hadn’t even crossed my mind to check for mounting screws. The solenoid driver board was only hanging on by 2 of those plastic tabs. (Thanks previous owner!)

I don’t want to jinx it, but the game has been on and playing for about an hour now without resetting after mounting it correctly with the 2 screws.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
Decorations
$ 8.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
Electronics
$ 22.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 10.00
Lighting
Yoppsicle
Lighting

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jakers.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club?tu=jakers and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.