I used them for some proto Gottlieb 5v supplies, and they don't get warm at all.

However, I'd be interested to see what you see for voltage output on them. Every meter I put on mine showed low voltage, but everything also seems to run fine. So I dunno if I was checking wrong via the ground or something.

-Hans

I'm not surprised to hear this, but it's a bit disheartening you're also seeing the same with the PSU7. I have about 5 of them here when I was prototyping a Gottlieb power supply. None of them hit 5 volts for me. And they all dropped off well before the rated 5 amp load, when I was load testing them. I know my tester was a chinese 'no-brand', but I 4 different voltmeters that all agreed with each other. It's why I never released the design, and I don't know if I can use a 3amp regulator instead.

I have used the TO-220 sized regulators from EzSBC in the past, and while I didn't load test them, they did put out the advertised voltage on a quick voltmeter test. Maybe I'll order a few more pieces from them and load-test them as well.

The PSU-5 is a completely different regulator, and non-adjustable. If you're replacing an LM323 it may be worth looking at. The PSU-7 is intended to replace the 78H05 anyway.

Maybe I'll go back and chart this all again and talk to them. Seemed pretty responsive.

-Hans

You're correct that both should work in the application, but for some reason the PSU-7's I had were all under-voltaged. Not too bad at idle, but after about 1.5-2 amps they started to drop in voltage, and were very low voltage by the time I got anywhere near the max rating. You're right though, the PSU-5's do have trimmer capacitors..... I must have been thinking of other stuff.

The reason I suggest the PSU-5 is because it's based on different components I believe, or at least uses a different layout, so whatever design flaw is on the PSU-7 likely won't exist on the PSU-5.

-Hans

Have you checked all the tilts?
There's the plum bob, ball roll, coin door slam, and under-playfield slamp.

-Hans

I tore a big pile of LED's apart a few years back. Most of the anti-flicker ones out there have some kind of rectifier in there, plus a capacitor, to smooth out 60hz flickering and ghosting from poorly timed lamp matrix software.

I know the previous owner of Comet had experimented with an additional load resistor for dealing with the Bally/Stern type issue, which is a completely different situation. I don't think he ever had a design that panned out to his satisfaction. Something about the manufacturers never really grasping the concept I think.

-Hans

Should I start ramping up the replacements I’ve been doing for 3081’s? They aren’t cheap but they work great when I’ve tried them