Backing into the club this week, with a Dolly Parton I fell into.
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Quoted from djblouw:Great pick up! How’s the Playfield? Most of these are blown out.
I don't recall what it looked like as I have not seen it in 10 years or so...
I don't recall it being blown out back then, but I won't know what it looks like until I go grab it from him later this week.
Well, I got back from picking Dolly up. She was a filthy, filthy girl when I arrived. Covered in that stuff you find in the bed of a Rancher's Pickup.
Cleaned her a bit, disassembled and loaded her up for the trip.
Got home and had a first chance to look at what she's got goin on:
Backglass is nearly perfect.
Playfield is in real nice condition. Only a small bit of wear/damage in front of the drops and a couple edges of Mylar are pulling up in the stage/out lane areas. But little to no ne of the typical Dolly Wear.
Cab is structurally sound if looking just a bit tired. A few scuffs and scrapes but nothing real ugly. Colors are still pretty good if a bit faded.
Coin Door (and mechs) about perfect and even had a nice coin box to match.
Boards look to be ok. Battery is still there and a bit leaky. It will be outta there real soon!
The ony issue I caught right away is the Drops are in need of some serious work. They had placed tape over them and it is obvious that they need a serious seeing to/rebuild.
Needs Rubbers and bulbs all over the place.
That's it.
I have Rubber and Flipper rebuild on the way...gonna have to do a bunch more cleaning today and then I might get a chance to look at that drop assembly.
All in all I think she will be a fun little project to get up and running.
Quick Battery replacement question :
All the stores are closed up here and I only have a 4 'AA' battery holder on hand.
I know a 3 'AA' holder is preferable...any problems using the 4 or should I order a 3 and wait?
IF I am gonna order something, should I go with a different style replacement than a remote holder?
Thanks in Advance.
Awesome, again - thanks so much.
Still a few other issues, but I got her flipping. Scoring is fine and everything is now working properly. New Rubbers and Bulbs are in. Just waiting on a few parts to arrive and some penetrating oil to do its thing (Broken Flipper Bats are Fused on there!).
But, I got just about everything working save for the drops and 2 Bulb sockets.
Gonna have to re-flow solder on the displays I think (and see where I stand with those). As a couple are wonky.
5 after the power on flicker.
I am going back through fuses, now and the 5A fuse ( F4) is blown.
Board says 5A, Manual says 5A, 32v, 3AG...that was not what was in there, though.
I think that solved my problems.
Yeah it looks like something is blowing the F4 fuse.
Replaced and it fires up and appears to be fine then blows when you put a ball into play (and a coil fires)?
Thanks again. You are the man. I will get on that as soon as I get back out to the garage.
UPDATE : There was a 3A in the under playfield fuse holder. Had to order up some fuses, so I just did some coil rebuilds yesterday while I am waiting on them.
This Thread is awesome. Best of Pinside Stuff.
Managed to track down some fuses and it looks like Dolly will survive my repairs.
Still waiting on Flipper Bats so I can actually flip her, and I will have to source some better set screws to anchor them with...
but she appears to be functioning properly, again. Thanks for the tips, guys. Can't say how awesome it is to have access to your experience.
Still have to sort the wonky displays...but that can wait until I get a chance to play for a bit.
Well, I have been happily flipping on Dolly for 36 hours or so...just a few tiny switch adjustments and an intermittent bulb or two in all that time.
Thanks again for the aid.
Quick question before I go looking for something I don't know I will find: Does anyone sell the plastic heads that go on the slingshot arms? Or should I be looking for the entire arms for replacement? Plastics on mine were cracked and are finally giving out.
Yeah, mine were completely shot/trashed.
One more part (or pair of parts) to find...thanks for the reply.
Quoted from djblouw:You can replace them with wpc sling mechs.
I assume you mean the entire assembly?
I actually might have found a pair of the C-1062 Nylon Heads...placed the order. (Will see if they actually have them in stock or if it is a mistake on their site.)
Anyone got a good source for replacement Lamp Sockets for my Dolly? I have a couple bad ones in there and my usual haunts don't seem to have the right replacements listed / in stock?
Thanks.
I just put a new set of heads on my machine and I just used an inch or so of Blue Tape on the end of the pin to keep it from flying away.
Worked like a charm.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:The Bally kicker heads have been “out if stock” for some time now. The last time I called in an order to PBR he said they were unavailable.
Look upthread. Swinks(?) is making replacements now/soon.
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:Yes, he is. I am the person who approached him and asked him to do so. He sent me a pair to test out before he made them available to the public, and I got them a few days ago. They are now available here:
Thanks to the BOTH of you.
Now I think I might need some Pink Ones for my Dolly Parton.
I am having the same issue on my Dolly Parton.
O Target and Y Center Lamp are both not working, but fine. I am guessing it is component related n the Lamp Board.
I have not ordered up the part as this is new to me (Board Work) and frankly, scares the hell outta me.
Thanks Inko, that's super handy to have!
So it looks like I need replcements for 2N5060 in each of those positions. Anything else I should change along with them?
Quoted from Mathazar:It, ah, works now.
Awesome.
Almost always, Occam's Razor is your best friend in these situations.
Quoted from Nokoro:I’ve chased problems for hours making them more complicated in my mind only to realize later that it was something basic that I failed to check.
Years ago I worked at a business that had spent over 7k chasing down a problem with their Floor Waxing Machine.
Long->Short Story: Battery wouldn't charge while docked. Boss finally asked me to look at it because I once fixed a wiring harness in his truck.
Turned out that someone had unplugged the extension cord that went to the docking station.
Anyone know what size/thread screw Bally used for Switch Retainer Brackets?
Just finished up the Flipper Rebuilds on my Paragon and the new switches on the main flippers are too thick and I can't land them with the original screws. Nothing in fine thread and that small at my local Hardware Stores.
Thanks in advance for the help.
OK. Post flipper rebuild I have lost the Upper Left (Mini) Flipper on Paragon.
After rebuilds it was weak and not holding...after adjustment of the EOS (and Timing for the 2nd Switch), No Upper Flipper at all.
Any idea on what I screwed up here?
Sweetness!
Always wanted to own a Globetrotters.
Looks like I might have a line on a clean EK...will find out tomorrow if I can go and grab it.
Quoted from EEE:I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.
Utility knife then a bit of sandpaper or file to smooth.
Dremel cutting disc also works fine if you have a way to secure the end you want to keep.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:I have made sure that the connector is in the right place but still no luck. All I get is a loud chirp on power up and then a little hum.
Does it have a Volume pot on the door like my FG?
Maybe try cleaning that?
Mine was filthy and I chased sound issues for too long before it dawned on me that a really dirty pot in an amp would do the same thing I was fighting.
I am Mid-Swap on a Skateball PF...rebuiling the drop mechs right now.
Question : Do I have to remove the lower ledger on the New Drop Targets? None of the originals that are in there have the lower ledge except one replacement that looks like it was sitting too high compared to all the others.
Thanks in advance. Just trying to save myself a repeat teardown when I put these back together.
I am looking for a single Display Bracket to finish up my Skateball. Have 4 of the 5 here...just can't find that last one.
Anybody got a spare I can buy or a tip on someone who stocks them?
Thanks.
Quoted from Tsskinne:I’ll take a look in my parts stash
Quoted from FatPanda:I can probably dig one up for you. Would just have to cover shipping. Let me see what I have.
Thanks guys!
I am happy to cover shipping and throw in a bit extra to buy you a beer and some credits.
Quoted from Zitt:If I could figure out how to cut these "square" - would anyone be interested in clear spacers?
Look into an arrow cutter. BassPro / Cabelas sell them. Basically a roller and a Cutting Disc on a fixed position motor.
>>All five display are PinLED's and I've swapped them out with no change.
Thanks!
-Kyle
Is there a setting through the Coin Door that toggles Credits On / Off? For some reason I am thinking that there might be one in there for that.
Quoted from Xenon75:If the fuse pops immediately when you turn on the game, the bridge rectifier is shorted and needs to be replaced or like others have suggested replace the whole board.
Or...you have a cross in the GI and the Control Lamp circuit.
Do you have an Alltek Lamp Board laying around? or in another machine?
If so, hook up the alltek AND the Control Lamp Jumper. Unplug J1 (8 pin connector to PF) on the rectifier board and power up the game. Got weak lights? Then you have current jumping to the Control Circuit. If not, check the bridge rectifier for J1.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:My P1 display is actually an LED from Pinscore...and ironically it's the only one that's not shown any signs of life. P2/p3/p4 have all shown various bits of data (only a segment or two) before fading away.
That one will be working off a different power I source, I believe. Meaning, not the High Voltage that the Plasmas are reacting to.
Quoted from slochar:No. All the parts are more expensive the moving mass is higher so they don't flip as quickly.
But. Those Tap Passes. So sweet.
Quoted from slochar:Which are still doable with the earlier style parts... people have zero problems doing it on Paragon for sure.
I have had them both and the linears just do it better. Mostly for the reason you outlined above : mass.
Quoted from Chosen_S:Thank you for any help
XPABLO is a member here and has helped me locate parts before.
Great guy and although he is in Argentina, I trust his packing more than just about anyone.
Quoted from pacman11:Alright game boots and chimes up but can’t put any credits on it to play. I guessing it’s bad connectors which ones should I be focusing on? Put a new rectifier board in it and redid all the connectors on that board.
Go through the tilt(s). You might just have a closed tilt overriding your ability to credit.
Quoted from gdonovan:I thought this would generate vast amusement for our knowledgeable board members.
[quoted image]
It's rarely gonna shock someone with that cage in play. This keeps'em on their toes.
Quoted from barakandl:Pop bumper led? I hate those bayonet base pop lamp holders.
I do like the solid / blade leads, though.
Quoted from BorgDog:I like wire leads
If the damned holes ever lined up perfectly, I'd prefer them, too. Unfortunately, every swap I do those damned holes are way off. The blades make routing so much easier.
Quoted from barakandl:Bottom is new led board. Right is 44 bulb. Left is comet 1smd
Nailed it. Looks great. Any chance of a downward firing bulb to light the bodies? Or is that already in there?
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