(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by tatman9999
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#334 7 years ago

Posed this question in the SS tech forum with no luck so I thought I'd ask here.

I've noticed the GI bus on this era of games to be extremely susceptible to voltage drops when both flippers are flipped simultaneously. With incandescent bulbs this usually results in a slight momentary dimming, but with LED's it's a full off/on flicker. Not too noticeable in a well lit room, but as soon as the ambient lighting is dimmed the GI flicker is maddening.

Is anyone aware of a solution to this (ala LED OCD on modern games)?

1 month later
#414 7 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I have one installed in a classic Stern (dual 5101s) that I took to a show and didn't set up for 3 months afterwards. All settings were retained.

Same here. I've had some of my games off for months at a time and I've never once lost settings.

2 weeks later
#439 7 years ago

I believe Big Daddy has 28 pin housings.

As others have suggested, I usually just combine two smaller housings. I don't bother gluing them together - just a quick witness mark with a sharpie over the joint.

1 week later
#460 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

So, I was just curious on thoughts - if someone like Alltek or Rottendog came out with a new MPU board, but it had some small changes to the connectors, would that turn you off?

If the design changes were sensible it wouldn't turn me off, but I do think it could potentially alienate some of their customer base. I'd wager a sizable number of people who buy repro's do so because they lack the skill to repair the original boards themselves, which means having to rebuild a connector would probably be a big turn off. I worked on a game just a few weeks ago where the owner replaced the original -35 MPU with an Alltek to address battery damage, but failed to realize the corrosion had spread into the J4 connector as well.

Another thing to consider is once you redo a game's connectors it instantly becomes incompatible with the original board. I really like what Ni-wumpf did on their newest system 80 boards so you can use either the original bifurcated connectors or a new IDE ribbon cable. Forward thinking, but still backwards compatible.

1 month later
#497 7 years ago

Big Daddy still has 28 pin housings:

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/electronics/e_connectors-100.htm

Regarding the crimpers, I'd recommend springing for the 1026-CT crimpers GPE sells. Much better quality than the Waldom crimpers linked to above and they'll do just about any size crimp you're likely to encounter in pinball.

3 weeks later
#522 7 years ago

These are the ones I use on classic Bally's. Order 25 or more and they're under a buck each.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=992

5 months later
#663 6 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

To go along with my earlier post, can other well versed members of this club check this thread link and offer your wisdom to the Q24 seen in the images but not on schematics?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania#post-3772292

Because you have a later Stern driver board installed. It's a slightly different design, but functionally interchangeable with the original Bally board.

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