(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,895 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Trainmonger
  • Topic is favorited by 287 Pinsiders

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#772 6 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Got a question about one of the digits display board on a Harlem Globetrotters. The board is shown here:

In the center, it looks burned. Here is a closeup:
Do you think that looks bad enough to replace the component? I am guessing all 3 resistors would have to be replaced, would there be anything else? Are all the boards the same? (I can get the values from the other boards)

You really should replace all of the 100k-ohm 1/4w resistors with 100k-ohm 1/2w & then see where you stand.
They were undersized from the factory

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm

#776 6 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

If I recall, I think you can set it to 40, although I could be mistaken. I'll check the switches, but I'm not sure the issue is related to that. You can drain the credits playing games, but as soon as you turn it off/on, they reset to 40 and the high score gets wiped out. It's pretty odd.

Your onboard 5101 RAM should hold this data, assuming your battery is working. Using NVRAM allows you to remove batteries & still retain data.

#780 6 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I have one installed in a Bally Centaur and it is still holding the data. Thumbs up.

Only way to go, really.

2 months later
#809 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Test point TP3 that's connected to pull-up resistor R70 on the Lamp Driver Board is there for manually testing SCRs. Connecting a wire from TP3 to the gate lead of any SCR should activate the respective lamp.
It's mentioned as part of the Lamp Board diagnostic procedure in the Bally Repair Procedures manual FO-560
There are also pull-up resistors connecting to test points only on the SDB that are used for similar purposes.

Interesting. You learn something every day........ I'm going to use that one today. Have a lamp issue on my Seawitch that is driving me nuts

2 weeks later
#824 6 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

If I had to pull a few chips and reseat to have the game boot after having fine that less than a few months ago when I got the game, what should I do to make it more reliable?

Put new IC sockets in

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#834 6 years ago

I would just replace ALL of the switch caps. Save yourself a lot of wasted time later on.... wish I would have.

2 months later
#891 6 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

Outstanding lineup. My fave era

2 weeks later
#927 6 years ago

What the hell kind of fuse is there in F1?

#933 6 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Ceramic... around the fuse wire. Helps dissipate the heat.

Looks like a much larger diameter fuse....

#935 6 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Definitely... probably some other application like an appliance. I often have a hard time finding fuses at a hardware store instead of an electronics store... there’s so few of them now. If it was able to force fit.. ok. But check the value to be sure it’s correct. When it’s ever replaced you’ll likely need to squeeze the clips together again.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=13
Ed @ GPE has all the fuses you need.

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7 months later
#1366 5 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Happy Thanksgiving and a once again functioning Playboy after replacing this rectifier board.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would like to have that old board if you have no need for it.

2 weeks later
#1384 5 years ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

i repinned the .156 pins, dont have the small ones for the red mpu connectors though.

Save yourself a lot of grief .. re-pin ALL connectors, both male & females. Been there, done that.
Time consuming, yes.

1 year later
#1854 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Anyone have a source for these? I can't even find a part number anywhere. Marco carries the common 1/2" version but not this larger one. I've also checked Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. with no luck. May just wind up using a rubber washer as a replacement.

https://www.mcmaster.com/spring-washers

2 weeks later
#1885 4 years ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I just replaced the flickering leds in a Mata Hari with incandescents. Now the displays for player 2 and 3 are pointing random numbers along with player one scoring. I unseated and re seated all the connectors with no luck. Any advice on where to start on this? Could I have shorted something during the light swap that would cause this problem?

That's my boy.
LED's don't belong in an EM

2 months later
#2186 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got the wires soldered on the wrong lugs (backwards). Swap them around so the white-red wire connects to the diode lug on the side and the brown wires go where the white-red currently are.

& trim your fingernails while you are at it.

2 years later
#3496 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Now that GPE and BDE are closed.

Sad, I was not aware of that. GPE was my go to when I was heavily into pin rebuilds.

1 month later
#3567 1 year ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Just finished repairing & cleaning up a Cybernaut. A old guy died & the people looking to cover some funeral expenses unloaded the pin to the operator. Came out of a basement, & they decided to cut the wiring harness to the displays. One bad display, all rubbers bad & some missing. Wrong fuses, most of the lights burned out, & never cleaned in years. The operator is going to put it next to Vector on his mall arcade.

Have you ever seen one WITH all of the correct fuses? I have not.

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