Burnsville, MN
Quoted from eh97ac:Works best for most games. amazon.com link »
Curious how good these speakers are? I need one for my EBD.
(Topic ID: 85292)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
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Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Black Jack
Bally, 1978
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Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
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BMX
Bally, 1982
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Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
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Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
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Quoted from eh97ac:Most games pump out a whopping 5-10 watts....so this speaker is perfect and a great price.
Yeah this true. Just hate buying a real cheap ass speaker. Some really can some like crap. Ordered one so we'll see. Thanks. . .
Quoted from Bohdi:Yeah this is true. Just hate buying a real cheap ass speaker. Some really can some like crap. Ordered one so we'll see. Thanks. . .
Quoted from Bohdi:. Ordered one so we'll see. Thanks. . .
Got my new speaker and it sounds fine. Speaker was gone when I got it so I put a bookshelf speaker in for awhile temporarily. Anywhew, mounting it up earlier and noticed the ground right next to it not connected? Does this mount under one of the speakers screws? Feel dumb for not knowing. And, had one bulb I could not get to work so I soldered in a new socket and still nothing? I know it worked off and on for awhile, but no more and the new socket and bulb, still nothing. It's the #10 insert for the horseshoe targets. Stumped on that one.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Bingo.
If the bulb is not flashing during the lamp test, jump the wired tab to the wired tab of the working bulb next to it. It it lights, the problem is not the bulb or socket. It will be either one side of the plug into the light board or the transistor that controls the light.
So, I'm just running a wire from one connected socket (dead one ) to the next working one correct?
Quoted from Schwaggs:Do you have a diode installed on that new socket? I doesn't look like if from the picture.
I had several bulbs not working on my Baby Pac that I swore were bad sockets. Ended up being blown whimpy SCRs in the lamp matrix.
Is this the ONLY controlled lamp this isn't working? When the SCRs blow, the bulbs stop working in pairs. You should be able to tell if it is a bad SCR by looking at the schematics for your game and checking if the other bulb paired with this one is not working as well.
No, no diode installed. And it is the only controlled lamp not working. Guess I need to install I diode or get a lamp socket with one installed. What about the ground near the speaker?
Quoted from Ralph67:Looks like the wire Yellow/ green has come off the solder tab? , Could even be a bad solder joint on the common wire ,right next to the bulb holder mounting screw( Check that using a screwdriver shorting the solder blob to the Common)
It that fails
Trace that wire colour to the lamp board connector , gently pull on the wire right at where it goes into the connector , if it lights up , the connector could need re soldering , or replacing .or even a new crimp on that wire.
If no luck trying all that ,
the Transistor or SCR that drives the lamp must be blown.
Speaker , yes mount the earth strap under one of the speaker screws.
Good luck
The wire is currently not soldered on. I desoldered it and tried a different socket. Is a diode needed? Where the socket mounts to the PF, it is soldered to the common wire.
Quoted from Ralph67:Oh got you now about the loose wire , And if your sure the common has a good connection.
try looking at the connector pins on lamp board for cracks. If connectors are good , it must 95% sure it would be the SCR or transistor for that lamp
Diodes , The other sockets dont look like they have any on them , So the new socket won't need one either .
By the way what game is this EBD?
I'll double check the common connection. Redid it at least twice to make sure already, but maybe i'll redo it again. And yes, it's a EBD
Quoted from Ralph67:That common should be okay , if you have re done it ,
What lamp is not working?? , I have the manual here and can work out which transistor it is for you
Probably one of the smaller 5060's on the Lamp board, but this game also uses a 2nd aux lamp board to, but all those on the aux are of the bigger MCR-1060 type.
So if you can tell us which lamp it is exactly, ie 10 Target, "d" , 7 Rack etc...???
It's the "10" insert lamp for the drops. Next to the 1-7
Quoted from Ralph67:The '10' insert lamp , driven by Q26. which is a 2N5060.
Manual list that lamp as the '10 Target' and colours yellow/green so it must be the right one .
The connector pin is J1 pin 7 on the main Lamp board
good luck mate ...
Thanks, appreciate it. Will save me some time in the manual later. Hope to get back to it tonight..
Quoted from Schwaggs:Look closely at the original socket. The mounting bracket is soldered to the common wire and there usually is a diode built into the socket between the mounting bracket and the contact point for the bulb in the socket. It is on the back side of the original socket in the picture you posted. I do not have an EBD but that is the way the sockets are on my Baby Pac.
Will do, thanks
Quoted from Schwaggs:Look closely at the original socket. The mounting bracket is soldered to the common wire and there usually is a diode built into the socket between the mounting bracket and the contact point for the bulb in the socket. It is on the back side of the original socket in the picture you posted. I do not have an EBD but that is the way the sockets are on my Baby Pac.
Here's the original 555 socket. Don't see a diode. Hopefully tonight I can do some digging.
Quoted from aobrien5:Yes. This is just a test, use an alligator clip. If the light lights, it's not the socket.
Jumped the new socket in test mode, it works. So that definitely narrows it down.
Quoted from Schwaggs:See the slot in the plastic at the top as you are holding it in the picture? There is another terminal in that slot on the working sockets. From the terminal in that slot, there is a diode that connects to the mounting leg. The diode may get routed under the bend in the mounting leg (to the right in your picture)
But if it works when I jumped it to the adjacent socket, it must me something else I assume?
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Yes, it's something else. And the ground by your speaker wire goes under one of the speaker mounting screws. Helps with any potential feedback and such.
No need for a diode. Only if you install led bulbs. As Ralph67 mentioned, the wire for that bulb is yellow with a green chaser that meets the light board at J1 pin 7. Check the wire, check the plug and check Q-26. One of those is your problem.
Appreciate all the input guys, I really do. I hope to get into more tonight or this weekend. Unfortunately I have another issue I'd rather address 1st. Wanted to get the entire underside done (new targets, this and that etc) done so I could flip the PF back into place and finish what's left on top. Well now when I start a game it gives me the 7 Ball right away. Target doesn't drop, just gives me credit for it. Dive into that 1st, since now I have to prop the PF straight up again for easier access.
Quoted from aobrien5:Make sure the switch isn't stuck closed.
Replace the small cap across the switch tabs if it has one (can snip one leg for now if you don't have e a replacement on hand)
Replace the diode on the switch if it has one
Could be another board transistor problem
The 7 ball switch is now working. The leaf switch was closed. Re gapped it, it's fine now. Checked the pin on J1, seems fine as does the connector and the wire connection. Assuming it's Q26 is the problem. No way to test it.
Quoted from Bohdi:The 7 ball switch is now working. The leaf switch was closed. Re gapped it, it's fine now. Checked the pin on J1, seems fine as does.the connector and the wire connection. Assuming Q26 is the problem. No way to test it.
Quoted from aobrien5:You don't have a multimeter?
Nope 
Quoted from mtmellum:Respectfully, It's a "Must Have" tool Sir.
Oh, I know, believe me..
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