Starting on a pair of Mata Hari hardtops and I somehow have.....zero head bolts. I'm sure this is pretty standard across these old Bally games but figured I'd just post here and see what came back. What length are these? I assume they're the same threads as leg bolts, 3/8-16..right?

Thanks,
-Jordan

3"+ is what I'm guessing, but I think the threads are 3/8-16. I'll see what the hardware store has and hopefully get both heads firmly secured before they come crashing down in my shop..

Edit//

3/8-16 x 3" got the job done. Probably could have gone 3-1/2 to catch some more threads and would have still been okay.

Yep, 3-1/2 would have been better. 3" caught SOME threads, probably solid enough unless someone reeeeeeally gets aggressive with the cab... but yeah. Gotta repair one of these heads, didn't realize it was THIS bad. :/

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So... what's the trick to removing these rails? Pry under and work it upward until it's loose enough to pull off? These things are TIGHT!

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Personally I'd have preferred if he had used one with a roached cab/glass but I don't suppose it matters so long as his good parts went on to help revive other projects... not to mention it's his to do with as he pleases. I digress..workmanship is impressive and the outcome looks great.

Working on a Galaxy that keeps popping the 10A feature lamps fuse. Obviously my rectifier board looks.......... not great... but is there anything else noticeably 'off' here that might cause this? I've not gone through the lamps on the playfield to determine if one of my lamps is shorting out for some reason, I guess I could just unplug the lamp board and see if it still pops the fuse... right? Do I even bother researching anything before I just replace the rectifier?

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Yep, kinda what I'm thinking. This one is absolutely hammered six ways to Sunday.

Yeah I bought a couple of built boards from Big Daddy for the two Mata Hari hardtops I'm doing. But the transformer/rec board combo my friend doesn't look bad at all (I haven't tested it yet -- I still need to swap it in and see if it works) and if it's good...I'm leaving it be. The rec board in the cab I technically have up and working looks AWFUL (but works)..I've already committed to redoing that one. If I only need to use one of the two I bought, I'll just slide the other right on over to Galaxy.

Yeah, the feature lamps did work when we brought this home but for some reason they cut out somewhere along the way after I fixed the left flipper. Not really sure, but the rec board looks like haaaaaaaaaaammered dog sh1t so it probably does just need replaced. We just got a bunch of snow dumped on us overnight, so it'll be a bit before I get out there to start soldering on it, but I think that's the next step. Hopefully once I get that replaced I won't be popping fuses. I nosed around in the head and under the playfield and nothing looks noticeably horrible from a feature lamps or a ground sort of standpoint. Not that I couldn't have missed something...but everything SEEMED fine and not much has changed since it was brought home/flipper fixed and the lamps were working. I'd be willing to bet that the rectifier just bit the dust, given how horrible it looks. It even SMELLS kinda burnt, tbh. It needs to go.

Probably a dumb question but out of sheer morbid curiosity...say I wanted to run an MPU200 (from a Galaxy) in a Mata Hari -- why? Because why not! -- what all would need to be changed to do so? That's, of course, assuming it can even be done...

Thanks for the super fast reply. I'm going to be putting in an Alltek in my galaxy (eventually turning it into a Quicksilver, with xpin displays) and my mata hari mpu looked too far gone to revive (I never did put power to it, I shipped off the entire boardset to my repair guy) so I figured I'd just slide the mpu200 over if it could be done. I'm all for pinching pennies anywhere I can on that one...

I'm only getting a HINT of displays at boot..then they fade away. These same displays worked in a different cab, with all the same boards.

My understanding is that J1-25, 26, 27, and 28 handle all of the display data. I repinned the J1 plug on the MPU but nothing improved.

My P1 display is actually an LED from Pinscore...and ironically it's the only one that's not shown any signs of life. P2/p3/p4 have all shown various bits of data (only a segment or two) before fading away. What's my next step?

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Sure, I get that, but I'd think that would be the one I'd be far more likely to have working and I'm just not getting anywhere.

I'll measure some voltages tomorrow. I've got a brand new rectifier board installed and behavior stays the same with an alltek SDB.

Interestingly enough, if I remove the pinscore LED display, I at least get some data....even if it's not great.

For my own sanity's sake I swapped everything back over to my original cab again. All the displays, including the pinscore, are just fine. P4 needs some repairs but it lights up nice and bright and I can make out the data okay. Same boards, same displays. I didn't swap the rec board/transformer so this test isn't a TRUE apples to apples I guess.... I can do that tomorrow if I need to.

But the original cab has had nothing repinned while the new one has had J1 on the MPU, J1 and J4 on the SDB, and all three plugs on the rectifier board (as well as the board itself replaced) repinned. Displays are still dim (and don't work AT ALL if the pinscore LED is plugged in) and the data looks like jibberish.

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I also forgot to measure voltage before swapping things, so.. that's a bummer. I just can't think of what more I'd need to repin in order to fix it. Maybe the display plugs themselves?

I'm completely at a loss on the displays for this Galaxy cab. The other Galaxy cab has had basically nothing repinned. I've tried the same boards (including transformer and rectifier board) and displays and it all works FINE in the other cab. The other cab even works with a terrible condition original rectifier board, with the same displays and boards in the head, with Allteks, etc.

Nothing I do gets me bright, garbage-free displays in my second cab. I've repinned J1 on the MPU as well as all three at rectifier board and J1 on the SDB. I repinned the first display today (tracing wires seemed to indicate that's where the signal came in from the mpu -- correct me if I'm wrong). I've verified all connections at various plugs between the two cabs, all looks correct. I've tried Alltek boards in place of both the mpu and SDB. Grounds all look good, comparing the two cabs.

Nothing I do brightens my displays in the second cab, or eliminates garbage in them. But if I move EVERYTHING back over to the original cab, it all works just fine. If I plug in ONLY the P1 display i repinned, the issue persists. If i plug in ONLY P2 with the P1 plug, same thing. So, WHICH display or HOW many displays doesn't matter in the second cab. What do I try next?

Continuity is good from the braid in the cabinet to the head at multiple points (including the metal backing behind the boards). I thought maybe this nasty looking hack could be something until I looked at the other cab and it's just as bad. I'm stumped.

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