Quoted from Quench:I do the mod inconspicuously
That's brilliant! thanks for posting the pics as well. I'm going to convert all my SDBs to this, I was never happy having the extra wires at the back.
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Quoted from Quench:I do the mod inconspicuously
That's brilliant! thanks for posting the pics as well. I'm going to convert all my SDBs to this, I was never happy having the extra wires at the back.
Peroxide & UV method seems to be the way for this problem. Plenty of info on the net about it.
http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/10/how-to-clean-whiten-yellowed-plastics.html?m=1
I picked up a set of the legendary (NOS) Bally AID 1 & AID 2 modules a few years ago, reading the bally repair procedures book I know they are not really essential as their are many other ways for troubleshooting, but nevertheless items I had to have!
I wonder if these did get used much back in the day by field techs?
What reminded me of the Bally AID testing programme was the other day with an MPU200 game I accidentally pressed the remote s33 memory clear button on the coin door first then the self test button in that order only to discover the game locked up with a loud hum sound & didn't reboot which I thought must then be an MPU issue.
After reading Andrew's & Quench's comments on another thread explaining exactly this scenario I understood this is normal behaviour, with the Stern programming, this action (& also when you just press s33 anytime while in display, lamp or solenoid test modes) Stern games also enter a similar mode to a Bally where displays goes blank & their is a hum indicating game is in the ready status for the AID module.
Quoted from zeldarioid:So, I got that new triac in and installed it, but no luck on GI with it wired properly.
I had a NTE5673 I bought some time ago as a spare for my Centaur which I have not needed as yet.
I thought I would do a temp set-up with it to confirm it will work as a sub, so I unplugged the connectors to my original Triac & hooked up the NTE5673
As per short vids below it seems to work fine. It appears you have an issue elsewhere.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Awesome, thank you! It’s helpful to have secondary confirmation
No worries! at least you can now rule out the Triac for sure as not being the fault, hopefully you can get the issue sorted.
Quoted from RoyGBev:Before I put up a classified ad, does anyone have the backglass lock bar from an AS-2518 Bally from about 1977 to 1984? I am happy to buy it. I got a Bally Mystic and the lockbar and lock are missing. I can scrounge a lock but if you have it too that would be good.
Rarely come up for sale in the used market.
Marco do have them.
Quoted from Grefla:and regarding the HV transistor, I found this thread:
Yes, you can get them locally from RTBB.
They are genuine, probably originally from GPE.
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/transistor-npn-2n3584/
You can get a genuine LM323K locally from PSPA
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/lm323k.html
You probably won't like the price, but at you won't blow anything up either like you would with the classic underspec fakes.
You need to toss out the Chinese fakes you bought.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/6821-pias-from-china#post-4279650
Quoted from mkdud:I just cut the LM323 open, after using 2 Dremel cutting wheels. This certainly does not look like an actual 3 amp 5v regulator to me.
Opinions?
Glad to see it got opened! confirms it's another fake.
Disappointing & surprised it's from Marco, especially from 2012 - I didn't think they were doing fakes of lm323's when you could find genuine ones easily & not too expensive then.
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