Lodi, CA
Didn't know I was in the club. Flight 2000, Paragon and Xenon
(Topic ID: 85292)
Linked Games
Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980-
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
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Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
-
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
-
Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
-
BMX
Bally, 1982
-
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
-
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981
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6 months later
Just wanted to leave my experience here as a reminder to myself and others.
I had a M-200 that wasn't booting. I could trigger a boot by shorting U39-40 so I was sure it was the reset section. Problem was this board had a previous repair in this section (alkaline) and was seriously oxidized. The oxidations was so bad the solder wouldn't melt to clean up the board.
Here's what I ended up doing:
1. Bought a fiberglass pen http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058EDPZU
2. Polished the solder mounds the best I could
3. Scrubbed this section of the board with an old scotch brite
4. Clipped the components off from the front and left as much lead as possible
5. Added flux to the solder pads
6. Using a hemostat to grip the lead I heated the pad and extracted the lead
7. I hard cases I added additional solder and used a solder sucker when it would take
8. With all the components removed I was able to clean with alcohol and the shine up the pads with the fiberglass pen
The new components went in fine and the board boots. I got my kit here: ebay.com link: Bally Pinball MPU Corrosion Parts Repair KIT (make an offer like I did)
2 months later
2 months later
Quoted from Its_me_aj:I checked to see if I had a broken wore or something and there is continuity through every light connection + or -. No matter where I touch I get a beep.
Do you have continuity to the ground strap? If so then you definately have a short
1 month later
Quoted from Coyote:Okay, stupid question guys..
I need a 28-pin housing for the MPU connector, J1. I checked Digikey and Mouser, both don't carry .100" headers in 28pin. I can get a 30-pin, but I'd rather get one that matches, first.
Thanks!
-Mike
superglue 2 14s together or see if you can salvage from someone who's party an old bally stern
4 months later
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Chasing every IC pin connection through the schematics is a ton of tedious work. If someone has already done it, why recreate the wheel? I am just inquiring if there is a fellow pinsider who is willing to share the fruits of their hard work. If not, I'll go back to the schematics. Thanks in advance.
pm sent
1 month later
The flipper issue can be connectors. There are a few connectors that influence flipper behaviour:
J4 - 8: Flipper Disable. This one controls whether the relay is enabling the flippers. Can you hear the relay click when a game is started? If so this one is ok.
J2 - 1 & 2: Flipper Buttons, These are often damaged as the harness pulls down on the connector. Look into the connector and make sure the crimps aren't broken or flattened. Also cracked solder joints are very common here.
J1 - 8 & 9: Flipper Coils, Same issue with the crimp connectors.
J3 - 8: Flipper Power, The 43 VDC comes in on this line for the flippers. Same issue with the crimps.
5 months later
Quoted from Toads:I stacked another leaf switch to the start button and wired it to the coin switch.
Then adjusted the switches so when the start button is pressed it first adds a credit and then starts the game.
this works fine but can be annoying if there is a coin up sound that plays with the start sound
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