(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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#946 5 years ago

Is there something on the mpu that would cause sound to have a wobbly pitch?

For your tilt check as far up the wires as you can and see if continuity is there when the tilt Bob touches the ring. Could be connectors all the way up at the board.

2 weeks later
#969 5 years ago

If any of you guys can help shed some light on the reset issue I've been having with my Harlem Globetrotters please check out the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/harlem-globetrotters-rebooting-on-random-coil-activations

I've replaced the rectifier, tried alltek solenoid and MPU boards, lots of connectors, and I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Getting to the "take it out front and set it on fire" point of frustration.

#986 5 years ago

Put some quarters in it!

1 week later
#1011 5 years ago

Funky issue. One of the chimes on my stars sometimes doesnt work. When it does not work, grounding the transistor will make it work again for the next few games until it randomly fails again some time later. Transistor was replaced, the coil moves freely and isn't sticky or anything. Anyone ever seen this before? SDB related as the problem never occurs with an alltek.

3 weeks later
#1054 5 years ago

Jakers when dealing with displays reflow first, then do connectors (displays and MPU then if you still have missing segments or other issues do your resistors / transistors. The wiggle test can sometimes be telling, as well as swapping display positions ...and seeing if the problem follows.

#1056 5 years ago

Awesome, sounds like you've got the knack. If your pop bumper switches aren't super close (pop bumper causing enough shock to activate the other switches) I'd think it'd be a diode issue.

Harlem is awesome. Took me a long time to exorcise the demons from mine. Good luck!

1 week later
#1069 5 years ago

Can be something with your slam tilts also

#1070 5 years ago

If a display has a segment out (not all digits, just a single digit with a missing segment) what's the fix? Tried the segment transistor but no joy. Didn't see this symptom addressed in any of the guides.

2 weeks later
#1086 5 years ago

I'd give the connector on the mpu the "wiggle" test and see if the might need to be rebuilt or reflowed. You can also use your dmm to verify continuity all the way from the other side if the switch to the connector, possibly the board if you know where the signal goes.

From my understanding the caps prevent missing fast switch hits but one of these smarter guys will have to tell you if that might be the issue.

#1096 5 years ago

Future spa... display at position "player 4" is out. Displays are all working, changing displays does not change the issue. All test points good (5v, 190v, ground) and the display has the orange glow under the segments when you look down into it. Wiggling connectors on displays, MPU and SDU doesn't cause any change. I re-pressed all the IDC connectors at p4 and the upstream display. Is this potentially a bad U20 IC? What else would cause just the P4 display to be blank?

4 weeks later
#1123 5 years ago

Stern stars... in the middle of a game the p2 display started matching the output of the credit display and I cant get it to go back. Tried wiggling / reseating everything and cant even get a blink out of it. Stays in p2 after switching displays. Any ideas?

Edit: weird. Nothing would change no matter what I did until I added a credit to the game and it went back to normal. Wtf.

Edit2: something crazy with the credit button getting grounded. Weird stuff. Just need to isolate the button and no more issue I guess

#1125 5 years ago

Yeah that's what I thought at first too. It did turn out to be the credit button legs getting grounded on the inside of the coin door. Created some really weird behavior.

1 week later
#1131 5 years ago

Is the white around the front edge of the backbox shipping protection that was never removed?

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#1133 5 years ago

Its definitely tape. Dont know if it's supposed to be decorative or for shipping / packing and was never removed. Now it's like 30 years old and I'm kind of scared to take it off.

#1136 5 years ago

You did a reset on the alltek right?

#1138 5 years ago

Not the reset button but you have to set the dips to "reset" and power it up before selecting the game dip setting.

#1140 5 years ago

If you're on this thread chances are you've done dumber shit than that at least you didn't fry anything!

#1141 5 years ago

Asked on the Seawitch thread but haven't gotten any replies yet...

My middle drop target bank is sitting about 1/16" above the playfield and causing massive airballs. I don't see an adjustment on the Stern banks like the bally's have. Is there a way to adjust the drop target height that I'm missing or do I have to shim the whole mech? They appear to be the original drops but I'm not positive.

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#1145 5 years ago

Yeah my reference for that was they were the same at the top as the "S" targets that were there and not the wider tops that I knew to be repro. My bad. Shimmed up the whole mech and it seems a lot better.

#1147 5 years ago

That's exactly what I ended up doing. The washers were damn near perfect.

#1148 5 years ago

Why did this dude add resistors to the digit drivers?

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#1151 5 years ago

That was from where I had removed the 1/4 watt resistors. The ones they added are just going between legs on the drivers

1 week later
#1168 5 years ago

Check that the replay score isnt set to 10k with the knocker disconnected. That's a big one.

What causes a display to show all horizontal lines? Saw one doing it in the credit spot, switched it and the other display showed the credits properly and the display in question still showed lines when on P2. Haven't started the normal reflowing, etc just wondering if anybody knows what causes this.

#1170 5 years ago

With no other segments ever lighting do you think it's likely a bad chip?

1 week later
#1194 5 years ago

I'd be interested as well in new cabs

1 month later
#1334 5 years ago

Harlem Globetrotters - I have the spinners dialed in really, really well. They spin so good. The problem is when hitting one of the middle spinners and it goes in the globe saucer it will stop counting up the bonus lights entirely until it finishes doing sounds etc for the globe saucer. I assume because it's also adding bonus? Is there any way to change this? I didnt know if it was a weird memory thing or if it could be changed any way in settings. When hitting the left spinner it keeps adding that even through the globe saucer stuff.

#1337 5 years ago

It definitely stops racking up the bonus (lights don't advance for the spinner "v" or the bonus lights). It resumes after the val is kicked from the saucer but that can be a lot of points lost. Shame cuz it seems like it would be a small code modification. Maybe I need to look into how to do that stuff like the dudes on slamtilt.

#1339 5 years ago

But it seems to work with the left spinner going when it lands in the saucer is that not the case?

1 month later
#1382 5 years ago

Repinning or reflowing connectors is a likely fix. I fixed a mata hari with this same issue recently, I think it was the right side connectors on the MPU.

#1411 5 years ago

What do you need to rebuild on Xenon? I like weebly.nvram.com for rectifier boards. Diy, cheap and work great.

#1419 5 years ago

Cabinet button? Can you hit the button a bunch and get it to go back down?

3 months later
#1514 4 years ago

I have a meteor where the ball feed is sometimes too weak to get the ball out of the trough. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it won't feed a ball and will continually kick it gently, roll back down, and repeat. I've verified that the mech is buttery smooth and isn't hanging on anything. I took it apart and reassembled just in case. I ran out of time troubleshooting and need to go back later. Other than repinning connectors and reflowing joints are there any likely suspects? Would a failing transistor, chip, or bridge potentially cause this? It's got a fairly new weebly rectifier board.

2 months later
#1568 4 years ago

What's the easiest way to move a Bally LE cab? Removing the head and wrapping / strapping it to the body the same as a normal cab? The bottom section with the score displays stays put right?

1 week later
#1586 4 years ago

I think I have mine set to 15 plays per coin. Max 40 credits so it doesnt need to be re-upped very often and only 3 switch clicks.

2 months later
#1626 4 years ago

Going to look at a bally strat trek tomorrow that will randomly start scoring and not stop with no action on the playfield, that's all the info I have. Am I right in thinking that it's probably a bad capacitor on one of the switches or more likely something on the MPU?

#1628 4 years ago

Good call. It happens very sporadically apparently so I'm going it will show itself and I can take note of the scoring increments and narrow it down in case it stops once you enter the test menu.

If that doesn't help are there any associated / suspect ICs I should look at?

1 month later
#1683 4 years ago

Does anybody know who can burn and sell me a sound ROM (U4 on a 2518-51 sound board) for a Bally Viking? Listed as "E802-2, E802-7". Google is failing me.

#1685 4 years ago

Meloyelo51 / Matt's Basement Arcade pinside shop got me!

#1710 4 years ago

Yeah sounds like your playfield switches are all unplugged or otherwise not registering

2 weeks later
#1726 4 years ago

Bally viking... cane with a NGS sound ROM installed. Had a new ROM burned and the center saucer isn't making a sound, but the speaker does make a little "pop" when the switch is activated. Bad rom, or is there another likely culprit? Replaced all caps and reflowed the sound board.

#1730 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Bally viking... cane with a NGS sound ROM installed. Had a new ROM burned and the center saucer isn't making a sound, but the speaker does make a little "pop" when the switch is activated. Bad rom, or is there another likely culprit? Replaced all caps and reflowed the sound board.

The sound worked for one game session, next tune I turned it on it wasn't there again so it exists on the ROM, any ideas?

#1732 4 years ago

The chips all look clean, although the sockets that are used are the cheap older kind. The headers were all reflowed. No amount of pressing or twisting chips or wiggling connectors is making a difference.

#1734 4 years ago

Yeah that's what I usually use I just dont want to shotgun them on the 300 or so pins on the sound board! Rainy day project I guess...

1 week later
#1749 4 years ago

Give your connectors the wiggle test. Could be a bad connector or cold solder on your displays.

Or just sell me your dolly at a great loss. Awesome game.

2 weeks later
#1759 4 years ago

Solid LED can also be the reset circuit, look up the test of bridging pins 39 and 40 on one of the chips to verify.

#1762 4 years ago

Only one ball in the game. Probably cold solder joints, IIRC the lower right connector. Give the mpu connectors the wiggle test and see if you can get some switches to register.

3 weeks later
#1788 4 years ago

Centaur at our club seems to be ending your ball randomly when there's still balls on the playfield during multiball. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. Anything to look for other than funky trough switch issues?

3 months later
#2015 3 years ago

I do wire by wire along with Kulpa's guide to make sure I'm doing it right

#2030 3 years ago

His Dolly is Jolene

1 month later
#2164 3 years ago

There is also a chimes ROM for wild fyre if you can source a chime box. It's a fun game.

3 weeks later
#2223 3 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-7-digit-display-comma-stuck-on

Guessing q22 if they're brighter than normal but that thread has some other culprits to try as well.

7 months later
#2506 3 years ago

Has anybody come up with a more elegant solution to the saucer ball rest being broken than the previous owner of my HGT?

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#2514 3 years ago

emsrph or any other pinsiders with CPR HGT playfields... did you also find that the pop bumper mount holes are really far off? Like not even close? Pretty much have to plug and drill new, right?

#2519 3 years ago

Yeah I was having a time after being pissed at having to wallow out the holes for the bases. The holes that are off are the holes for the legs of the lamps. Might barely clear or need to be wallowed out just a touch.

1 week later
#2531 3 years ago

The silver grading indicator on mine is all the black lines being off.

2 weeks later
#2550 2 years ago

I'm also doing a HGT playfield swap. One of my saucers is missing one of the metal guides (triangle shape pieces) that the ball rests on in the saucer. The P.O. solved this by putting a wood screw through the bottom. Is there a 3d printed part or any other things I can do to fix it in a more elegant manner?

#2552 2 years ago

They seem unobtanium. Do you by chance know where they might be in stock or is it pretty much find somebody parting out or that has one laying around in a bin?

1 month later
#2593 2 years ago

Just buy a new one and get a nice flat stop that hasn't been beaten out of shape for the last 40 years. Will probably be around the same price that a local guy would charge anyways.

2 months later
#2675 2 years ago

Strong work Tommy! Looks awesome.

2 weeks later
#2696 2 years ago

Here's an odd issue that popped up on my viking. It began to happen when you double flip a few times it will activate the slam tilt (makes the Dee-doo-Dee-doo alarm and goes to attract mode). I bypassed the two slam tilt switches and it still happens. One time it qctivated the outhole, then slam tilted shortly after. I removed the MPU j3 connector and verified all the switch diodes seem to be functional and securely fastened. It will do this with no other playfield switches actuated (all drops up, outhole empty). Nothing fishy in switch test. The j3 connector was rebuilt at some point as it is a crimp and stuff, not IDC like the rest. No amount of wiggling or reseating connectors seems to make a difference. Popped in alltek MPU and SDU and the same issue persists. Was thinking that maybe the double flipping is causing some sort of voltage drop making the MPUs act funny as I cant seem to replicate the issue without double flipping and I've gotten pretty rough in testing. My next move was going to be a new rectifier board and rebuilding connectors if that didn't fix it although all power is metering correctly at the MPU / SDU at credit. Thoughts?

Edit: I suppose I could proof of concept my theory by disconnecting J3 and double flipping a bunch? If that doesn't do it I guess I'm left with connectors and replacing a bunch of switch diodes.

#2698 2 years ago

Would that cause a slam tilt or just a regular tilt? I thought it just went between the ring and bob. The switches for the slam tilts have had the wires disconnected.

#2700 2 years ago

Allright... long story long I was wrong about some stuff, or behavior changed at some point due to me messing with things. After some more diags and swapping a rectifier it turned out the bottom switch row was activating whatever switch was directly above it in the top switch row. The top left pop was activating the slam tilt, right top was the regular tilt or outhole I forget. Anyhow, an hour or so later I disconnected the power to the coils and held down the top left bumper switch and started tugging on every wire and diode under the playfield. It turned out that when I would flex the column wire on the left slingshot the correct switch number for the pop bumper would appear. Both wires as well as the diode seemed firmly attached but reflowing the solder resolved the issue entirely.

1 month later
#2714 2 years ago

How much are the cabs? Didnt see any pricing info on the site but I'm also not very observant.

1 week later
#2751 2 years ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Wow.. This must be "Help with my Bally soundboard" Thursday.
Patient: Future Spa
Issue: No sounds with any setting. (there is the electrical sound of the cycling displays and controlled lighting)
The U1 chip gets insanely hot.
History: Bought machine as a non-working project with unknown condition of PCBs.
Actions taken: Tried all setting combinations. New cap kit installed. Reflowed/checked all solder connections. Tested U2 and U3 on other later sound boards and verified working. Bought new U1 (AY3891) and the new chip does not get hot. Swapped the 1k pot on the PCB. ...still no sound.
I'm curious if it's as simple as a bad U4 sound ROM, but no way to test here and if it comes down to buying a replacement- I'll just buy a NVRAM.WEEBLY replacement on eBay for $100.
Voltages:
TP1 13.9vdc (+12v)
TP2 5.15vdc (+5v)
TP3 .040vdc (GND)
TP4 .057vdc
TP5 2.55vdc
TP6 .040vdc
Any advice much appreciated!
Steveo
[quoted image]

Verify your speaker is working / properly wired. The .156 connectors on the board often need solder reflowed as well.

1 month later
#2814 2 years ago

Try floating the sound board. Worked on my Kiss.

3 months later
#2975 2 years ago

I have a weird symptom I've never seen before. On my Bally Black Pyramid, when the game is turned on the outhole coil fires moving the ball into the shooter lane. Boots and goes into attract mode as normal. Anyone seen that before?

#2977 2 years ago

I'm having a hard time remembering his name... he was from Charlottesville, VA

Edit: his name was Jon. Maybe it's a black pyramid thing?

2 months later
#3054 1 year ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey everyone, I've got a weird issue going on with my Harlem Globetrotters, I'm hoping someone can help me with!
Game plays fine when I first turn it on. Play a few games. All good.
Walk away, leaving machine on. Go play another pin. Come back to Harlem, and all solenoids are dead.
Figured it was a fuse. Whatever. Turn it off, come back to it later. Turns on like normal; start a game, all sols working as they should. Play a complete game. All good. Go to start another game right after it; same issue as earlier, no solenoids firing.
What gives? Any ideas?

You're going to have to get the meter out and see where the issue originates. My first instinct is a wonky connector or fuse holder but that seems unlikely since it would probably get wonky when things are knocking around in there. You can always put it in coil test mode and try the "wiggle test" on the involved connectors and fuse holders (don't forget the under the PF fuse)

3 weeks later
#3144 1 year ago

Interesting issue I had on a game I was diagnosing today... One of the entire columns was not registering on a Bally Lost World. I messed with the switches for a while, then tried just jumping the appropriate switches on the upper right MPU connector. No joy. So I put an Alltek in there, supremely confident that I had traced the issue to the MPU and lo and behold, no joy. I removed the connector and tried jumping the column pin and nothing happened. Oh F. I may have burned up something on my test board. I found a crushed wire that MAY - but not super likely - have come into contact with a GI line but nothing else that looked suspect. I read the DC voltage on each wire on the damaged column and they seemed to be the same as the working switches. I checked out the schematics and replaced the 68xx on U10 and U11 on the old board and still no joy. All the resistors on the old board seemed to be reading the same as they should, what should I be looking at next? The column is the credit / start button, C target and dragons den standup. The start button seems to work and I replaced the diode to be sure but I can't get any of the other switches to register even by shorting the J2 pins on the board.

1 month later
#3225 1 year ago

Sometimes floating the sound board can also help.

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