(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,895 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Trainmonger
  • Topic is favorited by 287 Pinsiders

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#3019 2 years ago

I've got an X's & O's project that was not booting into attract mode, GI would come on and the displays were garbled. Replaced the MPU with a new Weebly and it now goes into attract and the displays are fine. Solenoids work in the coil test and I found 1 switch that doesn't register in switch test.

When I push the credit/start button the knocker goes off and it appears to be in a game but if I press either flipper button the game resets though the flipper coils don't fire. Would appreciate any tips for things to look for to get the game running. I have a working driver board from an 84 Eight ball deluxe, is it ok to swap boards to see if that fixes anything? Thanks.

FA234FD0-C1A2-4DFE-A2A2-C4F11E70E3D4 (resized).jpegFA234FD0-C1A2-4DFE-A2A2-C4F11E70E3D4 (resized).jpeg

#3020 2 years ago

.

#3022 2 years ago

Thanks Jethro.

Swapped boards today. The only thing that changed is now the flippers will fire when I press the flipper buttons but the game still resets right after. The ball is not ejected to the shooter lane but it does work in solenoid test. Also getting resets if I remove the ball from the trough. I've tried hitting some switches after pressing the credit button but the scoring seems off, not giving the right amount of points, pop bumpers give points but don't fire.

So here's what I've done so far since I got the game. New power cord, checked fuses, installed new mpu and refurbished driver board. Are there some other things I can try or look for to narrow down the issue? First time working on a solid state game and I have lots to learn ha.

#3028 2 years ago
Quoted from Kent_Diego:

Something is wrong with the solenoid voltage supply. I had a problem with a poor solder connection where the transformer wire connected to rectifier board. Maybe a cold solder somewhere else. Make sure the fuse holder is clean and tight. Many people re-pin all the connector contacts due to poor connection. Spray Deoxit contact cleaner inside all harness connectors and it will improve reliability of game if you do not repin all the harness contacts.

Quoted from barakandl:

If a switch matrix issue makes the computer think the slam switch gets closed, the game reboots.
Let solenoid test eject the ball and raise up any drop targets. Once all switches are open, use switch test to check each switch figure out what rows/columns are acting up. Also take note if any coils fire out of order during solenoid test.

Thank you both for the helpful info, gives me a good place to start. I do wonder if it's a switch matrix issue, I've found several cut capacitors on stand up targets that I'll replace. Went through the tests again and here's what I found- The solenoid test runs from 01 to 25. 09-16 are activated in test. The manual lists 9 coils 01-09 and all solenoids listed except for the lockout coil will activate. When the coils fire they are out of order compared to the manual.

Instead of this order listed in the manual F5B13AAD-2C47-45DF-8E87-A003B23ACEFB (resized).jpegF5B13AAD-2C47-45DF-8E87-A003B23ACEFB (resized).jpegI get this order of coils firing-
Outhole
Top bumper
Right bumper
Left bumper
Drop target reset
Saucer
Flippers
Knocker

In switch test I found one playfield rollover switch that isn't registering and I also couldn't get the ball tilt to register but I'm not sure if it's supposed to in the switch test. Every switch except the non working one displays the correct number when activated. Would replacing all capacitors be the next best step to take? Thanks again.

Edit: If I activate the slam tilt switch by the tilt bob it causes the top pop bumper to fire so this is definitely a switch matrix issue? Any tips for figuring out how to fix this? Also of note, on power up the bottom pop bumper does a weak pulse, not a full pull down of the rod and ring but a very weak one.

#3031 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Coils firing out of order is almost always means you are losing a solenoid bit between MPU J4 and driver J4 connectors. Extremely common issue. Battery damage wasted MPU J4 and single sided driver boards without plated drill holes get cracked solder joints more often than other boards.

Thanks a lot! I'm using a new weebly board which has helped a lot, wasn't getting any life out of the old board that had some battery damage. I did look closer at the connections and forgot I was having trouble with the J2 mpu connector when I swapped boards, for some reason I can't slide it all the way on to the pins. All the others went on fine. I tested it on the original mpu again and it goes on fine. Is there something I'm missing, thought maybe there was a broken pin or something jammed in the connector but I'm not seeing it. This is as far as it will go, feels like if I push any harder it will break something.91F57D6E-6F08-4ADD-838D-C1F18457C87A (resized).jpeg91F57D6E-6F08-4ADD-838D-C1F18457C87A (resized).jpegE00DBFE9-F2A5-41B3-9728-32E578D81DCE (resized).jpegE00DBFE9-F2A5-41B3-9728-32E578D81DCE (resized).jpeg

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

If all the switches show up as correct but a solenoid fires wrong (tilt) or out of order it sounds like a bad address line from the MPU to the solenoid driver card. Most likely a broken wire showing up as a 0 when sometimes it should be a 1.

Thanks for this info!

#3033 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The IDC connector pins might be mangled or something. Give a look inside the housing, it should mate more than that even though they are the long length headers.

Thank you. After playing around with it I've found its the third slot from the top that won't accept the male connector. I can't really see what is blocking it so is it possible to remove this pin to get a better look at it? Will start a new thread after this so I don't clog up this one. Thanks for all your help.

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